Jump to content

Photo

New development: GTIA in CPLD


680 replies to this topic

#676 Irgendwer OFFLINE  

Irgendwer

    Stargunner

  • 1,146 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted Sat Jun 3, 2017 6:32 AM

Can you please explain what is the missing pixel shift?

Perhaps a picture will help me understand.  :-D

 

Gr.10 lines have a one colour clock delay, shifting the pixels a half width in this mode to the right.

This is used as a virtual resolution increase in "JAG", as the converter is able to distribute colour values to the "more precise" positions.

 

Inspect the second screen shot you've made and compare the 4th vertical line of the test image with the picture of my original post.

(Of course you could do also another session with an unmodified GTIA and detect the differences.)

Images with details suffer more than more plain ones, e.g. the "Ghost Goblins" title is with "Sophia" not really readable any more as well as the image itself suffers quite a lot from the pixel position mismatch.

 

The enhancement with its crisp video output is really desirable, but the missing pixel shift is a show stopper for me.


Edited by Irgendwer, Sat Jun 3, 2017 6:35 AM.


#677 Mathy OFFLINE  

Mathy

    River Patroller

  • 2,350 posts
  • Location:Heerlen, NL

Posted Sat Jun 3, 2017 1:10 PM

Hello guys

 

The name of the soccer coach is Leo Beenhakker.  He's Dutch.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy  (not a soccer fan, but my Dad is, so I do recognize some of those bozo's)



#678 Sk8er000 OFFLINE  

Sk8er000

    Combat Commando

  • 9 posts

Posted Sun Jun 4, 2017 6:43 AM

Updated my 5200 to 1.3 fw without any problem. 

Thank you for the update  ;-)  :thumbsup:



#679 TiktaaLink OFFLINE  

TiktaaLink

    Combat Commando

  • 7 posts

Posted Wed Jun 7, 2017 12:00 PM

Finally finished adding SOPHIA to my already modded 5200.  My current 4 port model now has composite, s-video and RGB.  There are required pulled pins for the composite/s-video board, but they do not affect the SOPHIA mod.  I thought I would post some pics of the different video quality (and colors) from the various video feeds.  I am pushing them through a Sony PVM.  Pay particular attention to the bricks and the cave outlines as those are static images (more broken-up artifacts with composite than s-video).  My PVM tends to translate composite fairly well, so there isn't as much of a difference between S-video and composite as one might think, but it does get extremely noticeable on consumer TVs.

 

Composite

5200 Composite

 

S-Video

5200 S Video
 
SOPHIA RGB (Updated to FW 1.3)
5200 SOPHIA RGB

 


Edited by TiktaaLink, Wed Jun 7, 2017 12:54 PM.


#680 Kavik OFFLINE  

Kavik

    Space Invader

  • 34 posts
  • Location:WA State

Posted Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:25 PM

 

No need to solder anything. You just need to crimp a connector onto the cable that came with your USB Blaster (see image below for proper orientation).

 

post-29824-0-06337800-1489242301.jpg

 

 

Sophia uses a Micro-Match connector, so here is the mating part suitable for crimping onto the ribbon cable...

8-215083-0_sml.jpg

Digi-Key P/N: A99461CT-ND

TE Connectivity P/N: 8-215083-0

 

- Michael

 

Woot! After several delays, I finally have my Sophia board installed and working with my homemade DB9 cable connected to a Commodore 1084S. Thanks to ivop and Simius for providing the pinout info.

 

Now I'm ready to reprogram the board to get the correct NTSC palette.  I have my USB Blaster and micro-match connector in hand, however I'm not sure how to crimp this like shown above. There seems to be a rather expensive tool available, though an online article says I can do it in a vice.  I'm afraid to screw it up, given that the connector cost me $10.

 

Any advice?



#681 mytekcontrols ONLINE  

mytekcontrols

    Stargunner

  • 1,747 posts
  • Location:Santa Rosa, CA

Posted Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:34 AM

 

Woot! After several delays, I finally have my Sophia board installed and working with my homemade DB9 cable connected to a Commodore 1084S. Thanks to ivop and Simius for providing the pinout info.

 

Now I'm ready to reprogram the board to get the correct NTSC palette.  I have my USB Blaster and micro-match connector in hand, however I'm not sure how to crimp this like shown above. There seems to be a rather expensive tool available, though an online article says I can do it in a vice.  I'm afraid to screw it up, given that the connector cost me $10.

 

Any advice?

 

I just used a vice with soft jaws (aluminum or copper angle works well for this). Just make sure that you don't clamp over the area with the small pin sticking out. But how ever you do it, it's best to start the crimp process with just your bare hands, and only when everything looks to be lined up properly finish off with the vice.

 

- Michael






0 user(s) are browsing this forum

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users