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Replacement for 1050 Power Supply


Serpentor

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An option similar to what Bryan suggested in post#20 is to get a dual voltage(+5V/+12V) switching power supply, remove both regulators and connect the power supply outputs to the respective regulators output pad.

 

These dual output supplies are normally used with external HDD/HDD enclosures, can often be found for about 1/2 the price of each of the Traco switching regulators Mathy suggested, and completely replace the inefficient Atari power supply. They are also 120V/240V input tolerant, making them able to be used worldwide.

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 1417558149481?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=141755814948&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

 

I have a couple of supplies similar to the one linked above that came with USB 2.0 to IDE/SATA adapters, they differ in that they have power connections that plug directly into a bare HDD.

 

Even better. I think the best so far.

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Are there any switching power supplies that can do AC/AC 9V?

I believe that is two entirely different technologies.

 

A switching power supply converts the AC voltage in your wall outlet to one or more DC voltages. In the old days, there used to be a transformer + rectifier to go from AC to DC and possibly voltage regulator to bring down the voltage. Some designs used heavy iron cores, while modern technology has small, light and effective circuits called switching.

 

What we want here is to convert the AC voltage in your wall outlet to just a lower AC voltage, and then let the internal power supply in the drive do the rectifying and voltage regulation. Thus some would say it is partly improper vocabulary to call it a power supply, as it really is a ... transformer, even though it indeed supplies power in a modified form.

 

The discussion is heading towards bypassing the internal power supply, which would mean you can use a switching mode power supply but then your drive is non-standard and the original 9VAC transformer won't match it any longer. The alternative solution is to just replace one or both voltage regulators, which tend to both get old and are rather ineffective in terms of how much heat they release, with newer components and retain the 9VAC transformer. It would be a less intrusive solution, but you would still need the somewhat hard to find transformer.

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Yessir,

 

That's why I go with the replace the internal component approach... the transformer almost never go bad... usually only ever needed a fuse replaced.... by using the efficient cooler rectifiers the Drive stays stock, uses way less energy, stays cooler.... doesn't get stressed by a weird power supply or accident..

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Yessir,

 

That's why I go with the replace the internal component approach... the transformer almost never go bad... usually only ever needed a fuse replaced.... by using the efficient cooler rectifiers the Drive stays stock, uses way less energy, stays cooler.... doesn't get stressed by a weird power supply or accident..

 

I like this approach, as well. My original intent was to find an equivalent to the original power supply (transformer) and call it a day. After learning about the 78XX replacements, I definitely plan to install those. There does not appear to be a modern power supply replacement that is smaller or more efficient than the original, so I see little need to go with anything other than stock.

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Hello guys

 

I just translated the article and put it on my site. Erhard "FloppyDoc" Puetz wrote it, he's the electronics guy. It first appeared in an issue of the ABBUC Magazin.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

PS one of the biggest advantages of Erhard's upgrade is that the 1050 still looks and feels like a factory stock 1050. Apart of course for the temperature. You'll have to find other ways to fry an egg or keep your coffee hot.

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