cerror Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 The photo that DrVenkman posted of the U1MB reset fix is correct, but the value of the capacitor should be 100pf. - Michael Crap, just missed this. You think the 1nf will work as well? I got it from: http://atari8.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Ultimate-1MB-and-Incognito-BIOS-and-XEX-Loader.pdf(page 7) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 another fine example of what should be added to the installation outline of the product... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cerror Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 another fine example of what should be added to the installation outline of the product... Well the weird thing is: it worked fine before the whole stereo debacle... But you got a point. I'll keep ya'll updated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) The correct thing to do is fix the damaged reset circuit in the Atari(if it has been) or if there were damage to the U1M that is introducing noise, but the 'fix' works well enough Edited May 6, 2017 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) Crap, just missed this. You think the 1nf will work as well? I got it from: http://atari8.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Ultimate-1MB-and-Incognito-BIOS-and-XEX-Loader.pdf(page 7) I would trust what Jon is saying to do in that document, although that is a big change of several magnitudes going from 100pf up to .1uf (1nf). Obviously the noise problem turned out to be much worse requiring additional filtering (looks to be not so much a noisy reset line but more like an occasional voltage spike that gets imposed onto this line). I don't think it's actually a fault with the Atari reset circuit, but something being overly sensitive in the U1MB itself. And having a wire connection of several inches long certainly doesn't help matters, acting like an antenna. - Michael Edited May 7, 2017 by mytekcontrols Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Z Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 ...although that is a big change of several magnitudes going from 100pf up to .1uf (1nf). actually .1uF = 100nF, 1nF is only 1 order of magnitude greater than 100pF (.1nF) so this is probably fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cerror Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 I would trust what Jon is saying to do in that document, although that is a big change of several magnitudes going from 100pf up to .1uf (1nf). Obviously the noise problem turned out to be much worse requiring additional filtering (looks to be not so much a noisy reset line but more like an occasional voltage spike that gets imposed onto this line). I don't think it's actually a fault with the Atari reset circuit, but something being overly sensitive in the U1MB itself. And having a wire connection of several inches long certainly doesn't help matters, acting like an antenna. - Michael actually .1uF = 100nF, 1nF is only 1 order of magnitude greater than 100pF (.1nF) so this is probably fine. I orderded the 1nf, but I am going to get a 100pf as well. Just to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 As you can tell I don't use 'nf' values in what I normally do so I apologise for my mistaken notion that this was equivalent to .1uf (I knew those math classes that I skipped in school would catch up to me someday). Yes .001uf (1nf) should be fine, whereas .1uf (100nf) would probably create too much of a slope in the reset signal perhaps adversely affecting other chips that are tied into this same line. - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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