+Nezgar Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'm restoring a Tandon-mech 1050 that had a couple issues... 1st issue was a bad 6810 (isolated by swapping chips from another drive), so I have a couple of those on order from eBay. (Maybe a future USD? so i got a spare heh) But the bigger issue is the drive latch. Looks like prior owner was a little impatient or something and rammed the drive latch closed on something which caused damage to the piece of plastic that pushes down to lower/clamp the top down. Now the drive will not fully lock closed unless i help it by pushing sideways on the internal part that holds it down to 'lock it in. I figured out how to get it out, but does anyone know where I would even begin to search for this part? Maybe someone has a 'for parts' 1050 you'd be willing to sell me the part from? Would be much smaller to mail then... Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) That shape is probably unique to the mech used, I checked the sole PC 5.25 drive I have and it uses a different much smaller type of plasic cam. Maybe you could get a solid piece of plastic and shape it. Or maybe get one 3D printed though it'd need to be a fairly hard plastic. Or maybe just make one up from aluminium or brass. The trickiest part looks to be the cam part which pushes down. Edited May 12, 2017 by Rybags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) try these people. the site is in Poland, but it's got a UK language button. http://www.stepstick.pl/ They fixed me up with a 3D printed lever for a CA2001 disk drive for £9 including shipping - so you may have a chance Edited May 12, 2017 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undeadmechanic Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I have a brand new complete 1050 mech that I could part with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Let me have a look and see if I've got a junk mech somewhere. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Let me have a look and see if I've got a junk mech somewhere. Yeah, a part from an already-dead 1050 would be ideal. Would be most appreciated! The plastic bit doesn't detach easily from the metal rod it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Is it a grub screw or some sort of pressed in pin or rivet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 It looks like a piece of thin tightly rolled up metal making up the 'pin' - like if I pulled/pushed it out I would never get it back in again. That's why I was thinking best to just swap the rod it's attached to as well... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) It looks like a piece of thin tightly rolled up metal making up the 'pin' - like if I pulled/pushed it out I would never get it back in again. That's why I was thinking best to just swap the rod it's attached to as well... I've known them as roll-pins, but from a quick google it appears the proper name is spring pin. The ends of the pin are supposed to be tapered to allow them to be started in a hole and tapped or pressed into place. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring_pin Edited May 16, 2017 by BillC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) You can press out the spring pin and press it in again but you can break the new plastic piece doing it,, without proper alignment just replace the rod and all Edited May 16, 2017 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Yeah, a part from an already-dead 1050 would be ideal. Would be most appreciated! The plastic bit doesn't detach easily from the metal rod it seems. Still looking. I think I have one but all my stuff is in stacked boxes at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Yeah, a part from an already-dead 1050 would be ideal. Would be most appreciated! The plastic bit doesn't detach easily from the metal rod it seems. Sorry, my junk mech doesn't have the latch rod in it so I don't know if I have that piece somewhere or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred_M Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 I have around 25 broken drives which I use for parts. But I have checked the Tandon ones, but the part you are looking for is quite different on my Tandon drives.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Oh, wait. I do have that black piece. Is it the same as the white ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred_M Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 I don't know.... I have also a lot of junktech. Nezgar can have this if it fits, but when I look at the pictures I doubt it.... :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) I don't know.... I have also a lot of junktech. Nezgar can have this if it fits, but when I look at the pictures I doubt it.... :-( Heya guys -Thanks for checking your equipment! I have a couple other Tandon 1050's and can confirm some are White, some are black but I believe the shape of the plastic shunt is the same on both. That picture of Fred_M's drive is interesting, the plastic shunt & rod look correct, it just compresses down onto a different-looking metal clamp. Edit: Looking closer, I notice in your mech that the open/close detect switch is moved from the front to the inside part of the rod. The shape looks slightly different (stopper so it doesnt close past 90 deg). Never thought there would be so much variation on the tandon mechs since others I have all seem similar to this! Bryan - do your mechs look the same as Fred_M's? I've attached a better overview pic of a similar assembled drive with the open/closed detector in the front in case anyone has one with similar configuration: Edited May 23, 2017 by Nezgar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) Many thanks to Bryan, I have received and installed a replacement latch in this 1050 drive, and after a little lubrication and it's new 6810 ram chip its purring like a kitten now! One more hardware challenge won, and another 1050 saved from the parts bin. Edited June 6, 2017 by Nezgar 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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