1050 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Any of those shown in your eBay link will do and there is no penalty for going for the cheaper ones, you will be buying the cheaper ones at a higher price for the most part with one or two exceptions. Don't buy the exceptions, they are simply not required. These are not tube type, they are just cylindrical versions of the square type that you happen to have. No magic is to be inferred by the shape of the container in other words, when you buy Thermal Cutoff Fuse it matters not what shape it comes in unless that IS the only requirement. Just to save time, it also doesn't matter which ends get soldered to where, the pointy end means nothing here. It got hot and blew as designed, how can we know why at this time? They generally just simply work as produced so some certainty does exist that it did get that hot. If it does it again, just buy an entirely new one and dismember this one to include hammer and chisel damage to windings so someone else doesn't risk their life and limb building a supply from the transformer which would have to be very wrong on the inside to heat like this. Amperage rating does not matter as long as your minimum has been met. These do not blow by amperage generally speaking, they open by temperature as designed. They can be forced to, but that is not their advertised purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 OK thanks,can I for now use it without a fuse or wait until I get one..? Any of those shown in your eBay link will do and thereis no penalty for going for the cheaper ones, you willbe buying the cheaper ones at a higher price for the mostpart with one or two exceptions. Don't buy the exceptions,they are simply not required.These are not tube type, they are just cylindrical versionsof the square type that you happen to have. No magic isto be inferred by the shape of the container in otherwords, when you buy Thermal Cutoff Fuse it matters notwhat shape it comes in unless that IS the only requirement.Just to save time, it also doesn't matter which endsget soldered to where, the pointy end means nothing here.It got hot and blew as designed, how can we know why atthis time? They generally just simply work as producedso some certainty does exist that it did get that hot.If it does it again, just buy an entirely new one anddismember this one to include hammer and chisel damageto windings so someone else doesn't risk their life andlimb building a supply from the transformer which wouldhave to be very wrong on the inside to heat like this.Amperage rating does not matter as long as your minimumhas been met. These do not blow by amperage generallyspeaking, they open by temperature as designed. They canbe forced to, but that is not their advertised purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) I think I mentioned thermal protection and fire, please use a the thermal protection to prevent overheated winding from burning off their lacquer and releasing possible fumes, smoke, and possible arcing flames fire etc.... while a current fuse is provided... and should protect just fine, the the thermal fuse location does matter and it is there for a reason... as heat rises..... just select a close thermal locate it near the original position 113- 115 degree is fine... don't just jump it out... it's there for a reason... I replace tons of fuses, thermal and current ... it will more than likely be perfectly fine...... When repairing fans and motors, the starting cap, and thermal are often replaced together.... they often work just fine also.. it is rare to actually have burned up transformer windings.... and if you place a transformer in a bucket of vibrating vacuumed lacquer it usually heals the rubbed or burned spot on a transformer anyway... unless the winding has fused or welded and continues to touch where it should not...... then it's all over the transformer will heat up and blow the fuse again and again... time to unwind and rewind again or recycle the copper... so please retain both fuses, if it blows you can try the lacquer repair, if it blows again... unwind lacquer rewind... or just recycle it and buy a new one... do not bypass the safety fuses... always replace them... please do not bypass the fuses, replace them! be safe! Edited January 17, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Can't recommend that, people could die with this thing unprotected. It has failed before with no explanation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 OK got it, I get the fuse then, before using it, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) Just bought these for it.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282640975736 you get 10 PCS Edited January 17, 2018 by Spanner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Good move! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) OK got the fuses today and the power supply is working fine now,thanks. Tested it with my drive on for half an hour and the psu is not even getting hot so thats good,,, Oh thanks for all the help this community is brill ... Edited January 24, 2018 by Spanner 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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