BillC Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 I was looking back at the post I linked to with the same issue someone else was having and the schematic. For the other person I suggested looking at the 10pF cap inline with the color signal(I don't know if they tried checking/swapping it or not). It is the 10pF between R196 and pin 12 of A104. This cap is not labeled on the schematic other than the value. The Sobola schematics show this as C161, and that is the only 10pF capacitor I found listed for the main PCB in the Parts List in the back of the Field Service Manual 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 I removed L110. I think I was careful. I had a heat sink between cap and solder points. Or I think I do not know how to use the cap function on my meter. without touching anything I get .093nf. When I touch the black probe to one leg, it goes .11nf. Then I touch the red probe to the other end and it stays at .11nf until I remove the red then it jump to many numbers over 1 to about 25 nf. Switching probes it stays at .093 until I lift one probe and it jumps to large numbers again same with the good board L110 I check that voltage was zero before each test. Now I do not get any reading fro the L110 on the third board. aarrrr frustrating not knowing enough how things work. Just tested a new in package ceramic cap and it measured right. Is L110 a cap? it seems to hold a charge Page 203 of the Field Service Manual lists L103-L112 as Ferrite Bead Inductors but doesn't give any value, Atari part# CO14384. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Is L110 a cap? it seems to hold a chargeNope, L part of L110 means it's an inductor so should read as a short piece of wire would. Dead short included. Other issues with .xxnf measurements could be just parasitic capacitance of the test leads. Such a low value would regularly just be ignored by a more knowledgeable engineer - the value is so picayune as to not matter in any case. I can't find a value for it either using Sams. I'm leaning towards 10mH since there are two transistors getting power thru it among other needs. Same size powers the SIO READY line in the XL series L10 there. Only value found for it is on the schematic. Parts list shows it, but like the 800 parts list, the value isn't there. At least they are consistent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLund1 Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 Finally figured it out. I just followed the service manual steps. When I encountered soldered in part to swap out, I did so very carefully. Then do a test on both boards I was using for testing. This take a lot of time. removing boards from both motherboards, desolder both parts, swap, resolder, install boards again, test, repeat. When I got to X101 swap, I GOT COLOR!!! I found the bad part. C010177. This is a large can, left rear, near CPU card. Off to Best for a replacement. Another 800 saved! Thanks 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Glad you got it working. I directed the person from this post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/276641-atari-800-only-getting-black-and-white/ to check this one out in case theirs is the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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