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Yet Another Masterplay Clone


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#101 john_q_atari OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 21, 2018 7:46 PM

 

Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom.  I really like how they came out

 

@smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman -  I have extra cut acrylics.  PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

 

 

That is indeed very kind and generous of you. Thank you very much. PM has been sent.



#102 rayik OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Nov 21, 2018 10:26 PM

Glad to sent out to those who make, build and troubleshooting this device



#103 rayik OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 23, 2018 12:45 PM

Acrylics mailed today.  Enjoy



#104 rayik OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:00 AM

From my notes earlier, with the power off and the IC removed, using the two-pin pads adjacent to each pot, I measured 265K on the top one and 263K on the bottom one (the difference between 265K and 263K is probably not significant).

 

So I would start by verifying your pots are in the ballpark of those values. If that still doesn't get performance within reasonable limits, can you use a traditional controller on port 1 of the 5200, and the masterplay clone on port 2, to navigate into Pete's test cartridge? I don't have an atarimax, so I'm not entirely sure how the menu system works.

 

Scott

 

 

Adjusted posts to 265K.  (All 4 were at 475K initially).  

 

Did not work

 

Got Pete's test cart running on AtariMax using your instructions. Values show extreme left and extreme up on each adapter.  interestingly values were the same for the two even though I forgot to reinsert the DG413DHZ in one of the adapters.   

 

IMG 4204
IMG 4203
 
Value is 9  9.  (Cannot get photos to post correct.  Either upside down or rotated left)
 
I checked all the resisters with a multimeter whle I had the DG413DHZ out.  They were what is on the BOM.


#105 smbaker OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:40 AM

interestingly values were the same for the two even though I forgot to reinsert the DG413DHZ in one of the adapters.   

 

 

That is interesting. Without the IC installed, the only thing in circuit on each axis should be the 10M resistor and the diode. It should read full right (I think that's what DrVenkman's did when he tried it with the IC removed), not full left.

 

Scott



#106 DrVenkman OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:18 PM

 

That is interesting. Without the IC installed, the only thing in circuit on each axis should be the 10M resistor and the diode. It should read full right (I think that's what DrVenkman's did when he tried it with the IC removed), not full left.

 

Scott

 

Yeah, mine both read full-down/full-right without the IC inserted. Actually one reads off-scale high but if I wiggle around the 15-pin extension cable I can get 200+ values on both axes. The other is solid at about 205 - 209 values on both axes (recall I rebuilt my first one and then built the second one using different values of resistors in place of the 10M ones but it didn't help). With the ICs inserted they are both up and left - even with the trim pots maxed out they only read in the upper 50s/low 60s range and move exactly one unit when an attached stick is moved down or left. 

 

The thumbsticks are between 109 - 119 or so for both, and a CX-52 I pulled out to test is about 109 - 112 on both axes when centered as best as I can get it. 



#107 rayik OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:32 PM

Still not working, but getting there.

Turns out I forgot to install the 0.1 uf capacitor on both boards. Installing them still gives a "stuck" controller but I can change directions by moving the stick. When I get time I'll play with the pots. Values "at rest" with cap installed is 24 and 24 for both adapters with all pots set at 265K resistance.

#108 Swami ONLINE  

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Posted Mon Nov 26, 2018 1:30 PM

Still not working, but getting there.

Turns out I forgot to install the 0.1 uf capacitor on both boards. Installing them still gives a "stuck" controller but I can change directions by moving the stick. When I get time I'll play with the pots. Values "at rest" with cap installed is 24 and 24 for both adapters with all pots set at 265K resistance.

Do you have 0.22 uf capacitors to try? Or two 0.1 uf in parallel? This may increase centerpoint and range. You could also try adding a 0.1 uf capacitor between pins 10 and 9 and also 11 and 9 to try to achieve the same result.



#109 smbaker OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Nov 26, 2018 4:40 PM

Rayik, I'm still concerned that you're getting a low value when the IC is not installed. Can you triple-check that the 10M resistor is 10M (and not, for example, 10K which is a similar color code) and that the diode polarity is correct?

 

Scott



#110 rayik OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Dec 6, 2018 7:26 AM



Rayik, I'm still concerned that you're getting a low value when the IC is not installed. Can you triple-check that the 10M resistor is 10M (and not, for example, 10K which is a similar color code) and that the diode polarity is correct?

 

Scott

 

All resisters are correct values.  I just double checked with digikeys resitor five band color calculator

 

The diodes I used were 1N4148TR (Digikey part #: 1N418FSCT-ND)   I also bought 1N4148TR (Digikey part #: 1N4148FSCT-ND) but don't know if swapping them out will make a try.

 

I do have a couple of other 5200s.  However we have only modern flat panels and there is no way to connect them to see the video.  (The one I'm testing with has a Sophia rgb adapter installed and connects to hdtv through OSSC)

 

I did try doubling up the .11uf capacitor as suggested by Swami and that had no effect.

 

At this point I don't know what to do.



#111 DrVenkman OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Dec 6, 2018 5:06 PM

I haven't had the opportunity to mess around with my 5200 hardware in the last few weeks so I'm kind of at a loss here too. I'd really like to know why the MPC board I tested worked on my glitchy (now totally non-functional) 5200 but not on my daily-driver machine that I use all the time. I have the parts to do power mods on both boards to eliminate the need for the (one) switchbox I own, so I hope to mod the glithy/dead machine first and then get it powered for testing without taking my othwerwise-good system out of rotation.

 

Once I get the glitchy/dead machine fixed, with luck it will still work with the MPC clone and I'll be able to figure out why THAT one works (worked?) with the board while my other system does not.


Edited by DrVenkman, Thu Dec 6, 2018 5:06 PM.


#112 smbaker OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Dec 9, 2018 3:36 PM


At this point I don't know what to do.

 

I don't have any good suggestions left at this point. I did just try my prototype and verified that removing the IC gives me an open circuit indication on the 5200. I tried putting a 10K resistor in parallel with the 10M, and was able to bring it down to a 5 reading, which is consistent with what you're seeing. Looking at the schematic, I don't see an obvious place where a bridged solder joint would be responsible (and it would be surprising for the same problem to occur on both axis).

 

Can you post a picture of the board? Maybe another set of eyes will help and I can spot something.

 

Scott






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