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New desktop arcade controllers


Curt Vendel

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I'm not gonna lie...I was hoping you'd put up a wiring diagram! I was trying to do this a few years ago and a few people didn't think it was doable on one controller port.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260387-help-me-incorporate-a-paddle-controller-into-a-7800-arcade-stick/

Sure, I'll be more than happy to. I'll do that after New Years and post up.

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I'm not gonna lie...I was hoping you'd put up a wiring diagram! I was trying to do this a few years ago and a few people didn't think it was doable on one controller port.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260387-help-me-incorporate-a-paddle-controller-into-a-7800-arcade-stick/

Im not sure why it would be difficult if he is using a switch to change the wiring. Maybe if there was no switch it would be a problem.

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Im not sure why it would be difficult if he is using a switch to change the wiring. Maybe if there was no switch it would be a problem.

In the thread I started a few years ago, toiletunes and Stardust pointed out a switch would be needed. I don't see a switch on Curt's controller, maybe it is just on the underside or something.

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In the thread I started a few years ago, toiletunes and Stardust pointed out a switch would be needed. I don't see a switch on Curt's controller, maybe it is just on the underside or something.

I guess you didnt watch the video I posted...

 

Basically its very simple...

 

Both fire buttons commons wire to pin 6 and their NO outputs through a resistor (Im used 560k) go to ground and Paddle A & B respectively

 

So button one NO switch when pushed connects to pin 9 which is also Paddle A

 

What you do is connect Paddle A to Pin 9 and put a SPST switch from pin 9 to the to NO switch on button one. When its closed the connection works fine for the joystick and the paddle doesnt function, when its open only the paddle connects to Pin 9 and it functions normal and the fire button doesnt work.

 

Easy peasy

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I guess you didnt watch the video I posted...

 

Basically its very simple...

 

Both fire buttons commons wire to pin 6 and their NO outputs through a resistor (Im used 560k) go to ground and Paddle A & B respectively

 

So button one NO switch when pushed connects to pin 9 which is also Paddle A

 

What you do is connect Paddle A to Pin 9 and put a SPST switch from pin 9 to the to NO switch on button one. When its closed the connection works fine for the joystick and the paddle doesnt function, when its open only the paddle connects to Pin 9 and it functions normal and the fire button doesnt work.

 

Easy peasy

 

Watched it after Rev pointed it out to me! Thanks Curt.

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A couple of people ordered the new PLA78R (Right hand) version, just wanted to show everyone the update of the design. Both left and right versions come with built in Paddle control and a side fire button for the paddle.

 

Wow is that ever a cool design! When you get around to making the 2600 version might it be feasible to put the black paddle controller button where the "2" button is on the 7800 version? I figure with one less fire button in the mix there would be space to mount the paddle button on the top of the controller. :)

 

The only other feedback that I thought might be helpful would be to suggest putting a little rubber grommet in the cord hole on the metal front panel of the controller. That would keep the cord from getting torn up on the metal panel over time and help prevent damage when someone inevitably trips over the cord at some point.

 

In any case, awesome work so far and I'll have my wallet ready for as soon as the 2600 version is ready for purchase! :D

Edited by Jin
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Wow is that ever a cool design! When you get around to making the 2600 version might it be feasible to put the black paddle controller button where the "2" button is on the 7800 version? I figure with one less fire button in the mix there would be space to mount the paddle button on the top of the controller. :)

 

The only other feedback that I thought might be helpful would be to suggest putting a little rubber grommet in the cord hole on the metal front panel of the controller. That would keep the cord from getting torn up on the metal panel over time and help prevent damage when someone inevitably trips over the cord at some point.

 

In any case, awesome work so far and I'll have my wallet ready for as soon as the 2600 version is ready for purchase! :D

Just use the 7800 version works all the same. With all the cool 7800 stuff out there why even have a 2600 plugged in?
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Just use the 7800 version works all the same. With all the cool 7800 stuff out there why even have a 2600 plugged in?

No thanks, I'd rather wait for the 2600 version. I don't own a 7800 anymore and I'm not too keen on spending $90 on something styled after a system I don't own. Aesthetics are important to me, especially when it comes to expensive arcade stick controllers. :)

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No thanks, I'd rather wait for the 2600 version. I don't own a 7800 anymore and I'm not too keen on spending $90 on something styled after a system I don't own. Aesthetics are important to me, especially when it comes to expensive arcade stick controllers. :)

Ok cool. How are you going to play rikki and vikki? Steamer? Lol :P
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If I wanted to switch the joystick (octagonal gate) to a 4/8 way switchable, what would be the easiest high quality switchable ball-top stick to use in this case? I think a gate like in my old Mad-Catz xbox 360 fight-stick would be a good style, but something in Sanwa or Suzo-Happ, or can I just switch the restrictor gate?

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On my controllers?

 

Just remove the 4 bottom screws to remove the bottom half of the case, the joystick has a 4 way/8 way disk, you squeeze the two tabs and turn it one position to set it to 4 way, if you want to set it back just return it back to the other position.

 

Close the bottom cover back and tighten the screws.

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On my controllers?

 

Just remove the 4 bottom screws to remove the bottom half of the case, the joystick has a 4 way/8 way disk, you squeeze the two tabs and turn it one position to set it to 4 way, if you want to set it back just return it back to the other position.

 

Close the bottom cover back and tighten the screws.

 

I'll check again in a couple days, I'm out of state, but I'm pretty sure it has an octagonal restrictor gate.

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