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Quick & Easy Video Upgrade for 800XL


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#176 Bikerbob OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:33 AM

I would like to get a UAV for both my mod system and my old 400.. get my baby off of the RF!

 

What is the best way to get 80 col.? I like to use my system for bbs telnet and I am hoping to also write some code and my Interactive fiction on the 8-bit.. just because.

 

I know there was the xep80 hardware.. is there any mod out or was.. that helps with the display of 80col? Man if we could get a GUI and 80col.. (donuts...)(drool)



#177 DrVenkman ONLINE  

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Posted Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:16 AM

I would like to get a UAV for both my mod system and my old 400.. get my baby off of the RF!

 

What is the best way to get 80 col.? I like to use my system for bbs telnet and I am hoping to also write some code and my Interactive fiction on the 8-bit.. just because.

 

I know there was the xep80 hardware.. is there any mod out or was.. that helps with the display of 80col? Man if we could get a GUI and 80col.. (donuts...)(drool)

 

 

Other than the XEP80, there's not too many options for true 80-column text video on the 800XL. If you've got a lot more time than me to go slow and do it right, there's Lotharek's VBXE ...

 

http://lotharek.pl/product.php?pid=106



#178 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:25 AM

If you want to word process in 80 columns on stock hardware and have a decent, sharp video output:

 

http://atari8.co.uk/the-last-word/



#179 Bikerbob OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:55 AM

If you want to word process in 80 columns on stock hardware and have a decent, sharp video output:

 

http://atari8.co.uk/the-last-word/

Thanks flashjazzcat ... but you know my wish was for a GUI too ;)  that I could load the last-word in.. and it could keep both the GUI and various programs running saved in ramdisks so that I could switch back and forth ...

 

OH my its like christmas!!! :)

 

James



#180 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:29 PM

Thanks flashjazzcat ... but you know my wish was for a GUI too ;)  that I could load the last-word in.. and it could keep both the GUI and various programs running saved in ramdisks so that I could switch back and forth ...

 

OH my its like christmas!!! :)

 

James

 

A simple task swapper might serve you well in that case (there were a couple which could bank-switch the entire base 64KB, but I forget their names and I'm not sure which disk operating systems they work with).

 

As for running TLW under a GUI: there will eventually be a native GUI version of the word processor which runs as a pre-emptively multi-tasked application, if I live long enough to write it. :)



#181 Bikerbob OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed May 4, 2016 7:26 PM

Well back on topic! :)

 

I got my S-video cable made.. not as pretty as my composite .. lots of shielding on this cable.. made it tough to slide my din cover over it.  IT looks great!!

 

I think I will still do the UAV.. but I am very happy with what I have at the moment.

 

James



#182 Bikerbob OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:39 PM

Well, I could not wait for Bryan to get to this next batch of UAV upgrades.. so I was going to do this to another 800xl - the one I have my U1mb in.

 

But something did not work.

 

I end up with a very dark screen on composite or s-video. The pics are on my phone and I forgot that at work.. so I will edit this msg tomorrow and put them on.

 

C56 had a 181K  ceramic in it.. I removed it.

I removed L5 from the board (it was a 82ohm?(grey,red,brown) .. and then ran a line from the front hole to the + side of C3

R53 was 330ohm so I piggied the 100ohm

10ohm piggie on R116

1k from R58 to C55

and line from R68 RH side with 100ohm resistor to the 2nd from the Right pin on Video port.

 

This should have given me the result I wanted.. but no. DARK very.. not usable.


Edited by Bikerbob, Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:48 PM.


#183 Bikerbob OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Nov 22, 2016 9:54 AM

OK found my phone, here are the images. Anyone see anything I did wrong? OR ideas whats happening?

 

Would the fact that I removed the RF mod have caused an issue? Yes I just removed it.. SO is there a jumper I need to make or something?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20161121_012746.jpg
  • 20161121_012653.jpg
  • 20161121_012702.jpg
  • 20161121_012713.jpg


#184 steddyman OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:56 AM

Holy thread resurrection batman.  Sorry, I was redirected to this thread from the one I created last night about the poor quality composite picture I am getting from my PAL 800XL.

 

Here's the thing though, my 800XL doesn't appear to have a revision and doesn't look anything like any of the pictures in this thread.  In fact it appears to be a PAL 800XLF and I can't see how to improve the picture quality.  The only socketed chip seems to be the GTIA and it doesn't have any of the parts mentioned in this thread to remove or change:

 

 

IMG_0677.JPG

 

I've searched the forums and it is pretty much identical to the pictures in post #16 here from orpheuswaking:

 

http://atariage.com/...c/74493-800xlf/

 

Does anybody have any ideas how I could go about fixing this mess of an image:

 

StarRaiders2.jpg

 

Thanks in advance.


Edited by steddyman, Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:57 AM.


#185 hueyjones70 OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jul 19, 2017 9:53 PM

When the instructions say to remove a component, should I just cut it out or unsolved and remove?

#186 DrVenkman ONLINE  

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Posted Thu Jul 20, 2017 5:58 AM

When the instructions say to remove a component, should I just cut it out or unsolved and remove?


Functionally it doesn’t matter. Aesthetically it’s neater to remove. Personally I like to remove, clear the old solder out of the via and then fill it with fresh solder - it’ll be easier to clean out again if I decide to restore to stock configuration at some point.

#187 hueyjones70 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2017 5:18 PM

I attempted the Quick & easy upgrade and when I power on the computer the monitor flickers through some gray and orange static then settles down to solid gray. I would like to start over but I removed L5 and I can't find it, probably trashed it, I read on another thread that it was an 82 OHM inductor; does anyone have any more specifics about the item and where is a good site to purchase resistors, inductors etc. There isn't a Radio Shack within 100 miles of my home and I haven't been able to find any electronic parts places. I know I can buy on line but I would like to buy quality instead of quantity.



#188 DrVenkman ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2017 6:44 PM

I attempted the Quick & easy upgrade and when I power on the computer the monitor flickers through some gray and orange static then settles down to solid gray. I would like to start over but I removed L5 and I can't find it, probably trashed it ...

 

You mean, go back to stock video? Ugh, why? It's terrible on the 800XL. :) 

 

Just post pictures of your work and someone is likely to be able to spot what you did wrong and help you fix it. Chances are you've just got a solder blob or something causing failure to boot or a garbled picture. 



#189 hueyjones70 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Aug 5, 2017 6:59 PM

Update on my attempt at Quick & Easy for the 800XL. I removed all of the piggybacked resistors and disconnected the wire connecting the chroma output. I disconnected the front end of the wire that connects C3 with the front hole of L5. Now when I power on, the screen flickers for a second or two then boots up but then goes blank after 5 to 10 seconds. I booted with a pacman cartridge installed and with nothing and got the same results. I figure that I must have fried some component when I was soldering. I will attach pictures later.



#190 hueyjones70 OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Aug 7, 2017 11:12 AM

Further update, I test booted the motherboard today and it booted ok and stayed on for about 2 minutes, then the screen went blank.  I rebooted several times and each time it took less time for the screen to go blank.  Evidently something is heating up and shorting out and I can't find where any of my solder joints may have bridged to another circuit.



#191 hueyjones70 OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Aug 9, 2017 2:05 PM

Further-further update. I noticed that after the computer is powered on for a minute or two, the antic chip gets warm, I swapped out for another antic chip and the problem persists. I also found that I can rub my fingers across the antic chip after the screen goes blank and the screen will come back on.  I would suspect that I must have fried a resistor or something when I was applying the upgrade, there must be some Atari expert out there that knows enough about trouble shooting to give some advice about what needs to be examined.



#192 DrVenkman ONLINE  

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Posted Wed Aug 9, 2017 4:10 PM

Further-further update. I noticed that after the computer is powered on for a minute or two, the antic chip gets warm, I swapped out for another antic chip and the problem persists. I also found that I can rub my fingers across the antic chip after the screen goes blank and the screen will come back on.

 

Sounds like something isn't making good contact. Carefully remove the ANTIC and take a close look at the socket, hole by hole, preferably with bright light under magnification. It's quite possible that you have one or more bent or broken wipes  (the metal strips that make contact with the chip pins and then transition down through the vias on the board).






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