tripletopper

This is what I got so far I got a Sega Saturn file that started as a .7z What I decompressed it it went down to a folder which has inside of it the name of the website it came from and another subfolder which has the name of the game on it. Inside that subfolder it contains most of the tracks as .bin files, and one file as at the end as a .cue file. I noticed two things unique about my burning software roxio toast 20. The first is the software can go down as low as 1X. Since I don't have that many CDs to sacrifice and hopes of saving time we should start low and raise the hurdle up gently as we go. Also I heard roxio toast has a separate mode known as .bin file burning. I understand if I burn it as a CD it'll think it's a music CD code. I understand if I burn it as a ROM it'll either pick a standard PC ROM or Macintosh CD-ROM. I understand the Saturn format is neither. I think there might be a way to make a big copy version if you pick the right option and you select 1X speed. I assume bit perfection is more important than the time saved because I split plenty of wasted time and toasted CDs on nothing. I'm supposed to get a call back from the roxio toast people on how to do this correctly. I know there are many ways you could save a disc but if I have that many options like I supposedly do on roxio toast I assume I want the most "bit perfect" way to burn the disc. If you don't know what it is called on Roxio toast, is that the boat I should ask for that doesn't approximate sound waves or M pegs or anything like that to compress and interpolate but something that's bit perfect I assume it's the mode I want.

For the Dreamcast I have a micro SD card reader that plugs into the Dreamcast specific expansion port in the back. I'll try downloading a.gdi emergency if that works on the Dreamcast player or MicroSD cards on the Dreamcast.

I can't seem to find any off-the-shelf DB9 extension cords that fit inside the computer module of the Intellivision 2. You can supposedly fit 2 INTV2 control plugs, but I don't have those. Plus I don't want to have to reach in there and unplug the computer to plug in the two controls and vice versa. I understand all it has to do is physically fit and be a pair of straight DB9 male-female. Where could one find a short db9 extension cord pair that goes in there just so you have easy access to switching out and in the ports. The main reason why I ask is because I have flashback controllers and 2 appropriate INTVFB control-> INTV2 machine adapters and those doesn't easily work with the computer component.

Can an analog pc15 be read just as easily as an analog stick? If so, I can have someone who is knowledgeable in that wire up a one of those converter chips programmed to be a Game Port 15 to INTV2 converter. I understand north south east and west are four separate pins and there's two pins for what fraction of a right angle there is in between the press and a reference angle. So it could be 1/4, 2/4, or 3/4 as the positions between the Cardinals. Starting at one Cardinal and either going clockwise or counterclockwise from the "reference angle". If it's just a simple as replacing an actual physical thumb analog stick with a PC 15 game port interface that would be an interesting sub-product that would come out of this. An Intellivision controller interface for those who like large sticks instead of handheld pads. Then instead of the three buttons being actuated by physical button presses they could be actuated by TRS 3.5 mm connectors so a handicap stick could be plugged in there. I assume the A B and C all represents the three physical buttons that are unique on the intellivision. I could provide my own keypad with a DB9 y-adapter, a flashback controller, and the INTV2<->INTVFB converter in the right place and orientation. You don't have to use a physical Genesis pad to house it. It could be housed in anything, any shape, that could fit a PC 15 game port and three TRS 3.5mm females, so could actually be cheaper because it doesn't have to be as exacting as a physical controller which demands precise placements to be ergonomically correct.

Sorry. I just wanted to see if your design was flexible enough to make an easy to describe mod. And also whether your joystick was a 16 way solution, or a 4 and 8 way solution. You seem to use some sort of analog to INTV2 pinout adapter, as your video shows 16 ways. May I know what you use for the 16 way to INTV2 translation so I can cobble a solution for myself/others?

As I said various places throughout my web life, I've come to terms that if I were to make money on my inventions, the money itself might actually be a nuisance because I would have to reprove disability and my insurance is worth a lot to me, therefore the fact that I can't gain without risk is your gain if you want to use my knowledge, as limited as it may be, to help design ambidextrous controllers. I see the retrogameboyz.com Intellistick as well as this new pad I found for the Intellivision happened to choose the exact same layout for the three buttons, a triangle that is mirror symmetrical. Both of those are fairly easy to 180. If you think having a joystick that is user-serviceable to be easily ambidexterized is a better feature than what you give up contourwise by having hand dedicated features. (like for example having the d-pad and the buttons offset like an Xbox joystick) I could come up with some ideas that are worth at least what you pay for them (which is $0 and whatever time you invest in listening to them) and have a user switchable Lefty/I righty controller. I agree the vertical layout of most second generation controllers caused arm asymmetry usually causes more pain than the more horizontal layout pioneered by the NES and Nintendo. The only problem is that the baby of ambidexterity got thrown out with the bathwater of vertical layouts. The easiest thing to do is to make the layout vertically mirror symmetrical so that rotating the joystick 180° gives you an inverse layout that works just as perfectly on the opposite side as it does on the original side. The triangle layout is ripe to do that for the Intellivision layout. And if you have an easy switch that can easily switch around those three buttons then you can accommodate all layouts of the three buttons, even the same person having different layouts for different games just by redefining the buttons. Some games like Tutankham Side Arms have a hard left and rights concept in their control scheme whereas most games have a main and auxiliary function between the index and middle finger buttons. Use your switchable buttons for all three of those buttons would be perfect for all people in all cases. You just have to slide the switch over to whichever one you want. Just offering my services for what they're worth.

First of all I looked at the video and found that you have 16 individuals micro switches for the 16 individual directions. What I want to do if I could fully realize it is have my 14 button joystick base, and my analog flight stick or, if I'm playing at 4-way or 8-way, game, my standard fight stick, Second, I don't know what the official name of this port is as I've never owned a PC especially a pre Windows PC but there's a 15 pin port that I call a PC 15 part that used to let you put in flight sticks it can be confused with the Atari 5200 port. And the Bohoki adapter actually converts between the 5200 ports and the pc15 port. is one of those ports you use for flight sticks in the '80s which are single-handed analog sticks with two buttons on it. The 3.5 mm refers to handicap controls used since the 1990s when I bought a KY enterprises joystick and is the system that Xbox currently uses with its adaptive control system. Since I'm asking from the community it should be only fair that I give to the community. I can make no money off of my inventions anyway unless it was so astronomical that I could live off the residuals at my lifestyle or better and have my insurance paid for. So it benefits the most people possible I let anyone use my ideas for free and hope that if it does get to the point where there's astronomical profits (not bloody likely but one can hope) like they'll get some loving in some form. But if I were to get paid say $5 a unit for my services (just an example, not a real charge) let's just say if it got more than 20 units in a year I would have to worry about my social security balancing for the year because the main reason why I'm on social security is because inability to work. This one time payments May disqualify me if it's too high or too frequent or whatever. And the insurance is the largest part of my benefits thanks to my medicines and disability. So actually do not pay me for these ideas so I give them out freely and you choose where you use them or not and it's worth exactly at least what you paid for them. I think I could design this pad as well as the retrogameboyz.com Intellistick to be a user- changeable ambidextrous model. So you could 180 the pad and they can both a lefty and a righty pad simultaneously. The layout you both happened to choose is perfect for ambidextrization. Just use the symmetry and rotate the joystick 180° to get the perfect flip side mapping. An example of it is on my website sinistersticks.com with my original ambidextrous fight stick. Also on the website is my observations about the state of the industry about why most controllers are not designed to be ambidextrous. Feel free to use any of my ideas however you want if you don't want to make separate left-handed and right-handed versions and have a user-serviceable ambidextrous controller. When I'm working with thumbs, I'm usually all thumbs. The thing that would be perfect is one of these people have a pc-15 intellivision 2 setup for their PC and I was wondering if I could have a direct to a television hardware connector for that type of setup. I think probably the best solution is to have two different solutions and try not to make a Swiss army knife out of intellivision. Probably retro gameboys.com would have the perfect four-way and 8-way solution if I could have those controllers outputting to 3.5 mm TRS as opposed to actual physical buttons to press but it should be pretty easy to convert between one and the other. I can't do it myself but it should be relatively easy. Ask for the Flashback to INTV2 adapter, I don't know whether you sent me the original one or the inverse one but I'll see if I could deal with it myself as I bought two sets of three DB9 double me mail and double female converters one for each joystick. By the way you could sell it for both is to have both ends be either double the male or double female whichever is less fragile, and you insert the double opposite one to make it a male to female cable one way to make it one way and the other way to make it the other way. By the way I've used VGA pin adapters on my consoleized Virtual Boy to get a stereoscopic inverse picture, where the color is the negative space and the black is the positive space unlike normal Virtual Boy where the color is the positive space and the black is the negative space.

The problem is I don't know how to burn the disc right on a Macintosh to get it to play every time I put a burnt disc, it says there are errors. I understand there are two versions of the Saturn files ones made for computer emulators and ones made to run natively on Saturn hardware. Also there are two different versions of Dreamcast ROMs ones compacted to fit on a CD and ones that fit on a full GD. I assume if I have a Saturn hardware I want the ones made for the Saturn hardware, not the ones made for computers, and if I got a 512 gig MicroSD card I want the one that are the full GD versions of Dreamcast games. How do I tell the difference between those corresponding pairs of Saturn files and Dreamcast files? I know that .bin files is what the Saturn uses and the .cue files are individual tracks that are marked off as CD music tracks if I'm correct that can be accessed on a regular CD player if they were .wav and not .cue . I'm getting too many errors with the Saturn disc running and don't know how to fix it. Add to the fact I got a Macintosh which now is no longer PC compatible because Apple took out PC compatibility as of OS12, when they switch from Intels to M processors.

Hello. To modify a quote fromSor Mix a Lot ... I like big sticks and I cannot lie. Does your PCB have 16 individual actuation points, or do you take an XY space and divide it into 16 wedges and a bullseye? If the second, would it be easy to build a PC15->INTV2 controller interface with the 3 action buttons interfaced with a 3.5mm TRS female. (I got 8bitwidgets.com 's INTVFB->INTV2 adapter, [which I heard is reversible with a double male straight DB9 and double female straight DB9.] So I can provide my own connection needs as far as flashback pins are concerned ) I Got my own keyboard needs met with a DB9 straight y splitter and an INTVFB pad and appropriate cables. All I need is the PC15 to INTV2 circuit and the 3.5mm TRS interface with the 3 action buttons. Can that be hired to get done for $100 or less?

AmHello. Explaining my sitch: I have 3 INTVFB controllers. I use an INTV1 with Flashback adapters I am most used to arcade controls. My most used controller for all systems is an Xbox Adaptive that powers a digital fight stick. If a game requires / is optimized for a 16-way stick, probably the easiest way to have 16 way control with a large joystick is to take a PC15 80s era flight stick with Thumb and index finger buttons, and convert that using whatever you're using to get 16 way. Can you easily convert a PC15 to INTV2 pinout using your method to divide the XY space in 16 wedges and one bullseye? I was wondering if a DB9 Splitter with an INTVFB on one fork, and the other fork has a PC15 to INTV2 and 3 3.5mm TRS female for each of the 3 action buttons with a INTV2->INTVFB adapter cord that I provide would work. If so, I'd like to buy something to make this work. Also I recommend RetroGameBoyz.com for an 8-way/4 way adapter for certain games where that would be better. I bought their 5200 adapter. I'll buy theirs as a 4/8 way controller interface, and yours as a 16- way interface. BTW Is there a reason to have a third or fourth controller? I have the Keyboard and add on. Which games are 4-player? I'm trying to see where I should sell my third INTVFB or buy a 4th INTV controller. I originally bought thinking of getting it "padhacked" for a fight stick PCB. Then I read about complications on doing that.

First of all the SD card reader in the Dreamcast expansion slots will not destroy your GD reader. Second of all Mac got rid of dual boot as early as Mac OS 12. They're currently on Mac OS 14. Anything with an "M processor" will not work with Windows. Let's just say I feared windows ever since the only way I could get someone to stop tapping into the windows portion of my Mac was literally physically unplugging the power cord in the computer and then erasing it clean from the Mac side. After that I vowed never again. When it comes to PC viruses I'm like Adrian Monk. I try to avoid them if I can't deal with them.

2 issues: The Pseudo Saturn Kai was preprinted on a Sega Saturn Cartridge Slot cartridge, bought at a store, but I can't figure it out. The Dreamcast reader uses an Expansion Slot SD Card Reader and a CD-R to get the Dreamcast to access it. There are two problems with this burning. One is that some sites have them in different formats and other sites have them another formats. Some are more directly usable by computers and some are more directly usable by the original hardware. I don't know which is which or how to get it from one form to the other. The other issue is I need Mac specific instructions and all these things you talk about don't have a Mac version. I do have roxio toast for Macintosh and was wondering if that would help me get it working. I know I could get it down to 8X possibly 4X and it burns correctly... I think. I understand there are different forms of discs like PC dats discs, Mac data discs, CD music discs. What format would a Saturn Disc be considered? I would like the instructions to make it run on original Saturn hardware and Dreamcast hardware. Thankfully my internet is finally up to 50 M in 50 M out, so it won't take all day to load a disc. What format should the CD and the SD card be in respectively. I have an unformatted 512 gig micro SD card from SanDisk. Nowhere on the internet can I find Mac-specific instructions for this.

I was talking about an experience with a fight stick which was mapped with an Ethernet adapter. You have to make your own Ethernet adapters. The fight stick makers recommend wiring destroyed Ethernet heads either pin to pin or color to color. (I forget which) My stick maker insisted to wire it the other way, and would only guarantee it that way. So the Dreamcast coincidentally worked but none of the other systems did. As it turned out, that's when we looked up notes about A-wiring, B-wiring, and A-B crossovers. I happened to bring an AB crossover, and it caused that effect. I just bought random Ethernet cables and they turned out to be AB crossovers. That's the reason why you don't blindly wire by either color OR pin but analyze whether you have AA, BB or AB, and deal with it appropriately.

Well I have the original (flashback pinned) controllers both in case they turned out to be the better controllers in certain games, and for the sake of experiencing it the way it was originally meant. I prefer arcade style sticks, and I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is divide a pc15 flight stick into 16 wedges and one bullseye. If you have to quickly shift from left to right, it would be tough with that control. I understand the original philosophy of the controls was to have joystick and paddle controls in one physical device. Also, no one gave people instructions about a game. I remember when the game demo tells you enough pictorially to give you an idea how to play. At 6 years I figured out Pac-Man by watching the demo. My 11 year old brother couldn't figure out on the first playthrough and died on the first level, and my dad said "This will never be a hit". My dad also said about the NES "Don't you know video games are dead?" Also with no pictures of how to play an NES, I figured out to put it on the floor, put my index and middle fingers on the d-pad and A and B. I found the YB arrangement on an SNES a little backwards because I have to backbend my wrist, and thought "your middle finger was longer than your index,and the index finger button was further away.". Doesn't make much ergonomic sense . Also making the A Button on the Genesis the auxiliary button made no sense. My index finger pressed A and I wasted my magic in Golden Axe. My brother was telling me I was holding the controller wrong. I kind of resent the move to the thumb pad because it was less accurate than a stick. The way I hold the INTV controller is to grab it in my left hand with fingers on the buttons, and using my index finger to hit the disc and keypad buttons. I even type on my cell phone that way: like I'm dialing a touch tone telephone. I'm wondering what you thought of the Intellivision controller, how to grip it, and what your thoughts were and what you initially thought of the NES d-pad.

If something has a two, then it's obvious there must have been a one. Unless you're a Bill Cosby 6th spy movie, then thankfully there's no one through five. I said "what is now retroactively called an Intellivision 1." It's original intellivision one hardware with the original controllers sold and replaced with flashback controllers and having a 2 INTV->INTV1 cables installed so that I could add an external fight stick. (Or other appropriate controller.)