GTIA

Looks like you were quoted on NPR.org, Benny: http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2012/04/09/150316567/jack-tramiel-man-behind-commodore-64-has-died

I have that, and I probably still have the manual. However, it's probably at my parents' house in another state. I'll look at what I have here and get back to you.

I've had the best success with the UDS-10 when I've used my Atari to set it up through the RS232 side, rather than the ethernet side. Here's what I do: 1. Load a term program on the Atari (Bobterm and DeTerm are the ones I've used). 2. Set the term program to 9600 baud, ASCII, full duplex 3. If the UDS-10 is set to its default parameters, you should be able to "talk" to it through the Atari. 4. Cut the power to the UDS-10 and hold down the Atari's "x" key (in lowercase), and reapply the power to the UDS-10 while keeping the "x" key pressed. This puts you into the UDS-10's configuration mode. 5. From there, I use the following parameters: In the Server Config menu (option 0 on the configuration menu): IP Address: 000.000.000.000 (this sets up DHCP on the UDS-10) Subnet Mask: Match the one on your router Gateway: Use the router's IP address as your gateway. In the "Channel 1" settings: Baud: 9600 I/F Mode: 4c (this configures the Lantronix to work with RS232--I think it's a default configuration) Flow: 00 Port: 10001 Connect Mode: D6 (this sets the Lantronix to emulate a Hayes-compatible modem) Remote IP: 0.0.0.0 Remote Port: 0 Disconnect Mode: 00 Flush mode: 00 Disconnect Time: 00:00 Sendchar 1: 00 Sendchar 2: 00 Under menu item 5, "Expert": TCP keepalive: 0 (disable) After you complete these settings, you should be able to save them and start using the UDS-10 like a modem. Make sure to use capital letters in your modem commands, with a space before the port number, like this: ATDT 24.125.190.196 23 (this should connect you with The Boot Factory) ATDT xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx 23 (this should connect you with The Atari Inside) ATDT 84.24.93.15 471 (this will connect you to Thunderdome) You could also type: ATDT024125190196/23 for the same function. Since the UDS-10 needs IP addresses to connect to BBSs, you may need to ping The Boot Factory, The Atari Inside, and other BBSs if their IP addresses change. I have a little trouble sometimes getting my router and my UDS-10 to sync up so that I can call out. Usually powering them off and back on again does the trick. If you can't connect, try that. Also, be careful as you're typing the dial out commands. The way I understand it, your command won't work if you make mistakes and ahve to use the backspace key. Lastly: After your UDS-10 has been set up to emulate a Hayes modem, you can reset it without unplugging it. When I want to fiddle with my UDS-10's configuration, I use the "ATD" command by itself, which puts me into a utility mode. From there, "QU" allows me to exit the utility mode, and "RS" allows me to reset the UDS-10. (Make sure to use capital letters when you use those commands.) If I type ATD to get into utility mode, then type "RS" (without hitting return), then set the caps to lower case, then hit enter and quickly start holding the "x" key, the UDS-10 will reset and go into the configuration mode outlined above. (This saves me from unplugging the UDS-10 while trying to reach my Atari keyboard when I want to look at the configuration.) Good luck. Let me know how it goes. I'm sure you can find a UDS-10 manual at the Lantronix Web site.

I also recently purchased an SIO2SD from Lotharek, and I agree with everything you say. I'd still like to try the other comparable options that are available, and I almost got a NUXX during the recent run. But alas, my wife and I are trying to save for a house.

I don't know if this makes a difference to anyone, but it looks like the drive at that link has a World Storage mechanism, rather than a Tandon mech. Tandon mechs have metal that is prominently visible at each bottom corner of the disk slot, if one looks down at the front of the drive from above. World mechs don't have that metal, I can't see any in the pictures. But it might just be the light. Also, I think the drives with World Storage mechanisms were made in Hong Kong. That might be an easy way to tell. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Speaking of "Hacker" type books, has anyone looked at Kevin Mitnick's Ghost in the Wires? It's been getting a little press, and I just ordered it.

Again, it was great to work with Sloopy. I just received an SIO2USB "Sloopy Edition." The item works well, and I got it quickly! Thanks! :thumbsup:

Fantastic. Would buy again!

Bob and Sloopy, thanks to you both. @Bob: Yes, I took them apart and the cases are slightly different. The top of the case for the World mech has a longer pole to hold the mech in place. But other than that, they seemed identical. The PCBs are also different. As I was examining the wires, I noticed that the World drive has a small connection for a ground wire among the other connections in the back, and the ground wire leads from there to a spot on the top of the mech. The Tandon drive doesn't have the same connection for a ground on its PCB (or at least it's not in the same place). So to be safe, I'm not going to swap them. @Sloopy: I'll PM you.

Hi all, I thought I'd check before I go ahead and do this. I'm wondering whether it's OK to swap drive mechanisms on 1050s when one has a World mechanism and the other has a Tandon. I'm trying to isolate a problem with the Tandon drive. (It has a Happy upgrade, and it fails the read/write test.) Thanks! Tom

If anyone is still wondering about running Cropky on real hardware, I was just successful on an NTSC 800XL with Ctirad's RAM320XL upgrade. The graphics are great either way, but I think it looks better on real hardware.

So using the space bar to get past a boot screen is a common practice? I wasn't familiar with this because I haven't been around newer Atari games like Cropky. But give me an older 8-bit game, and I'll hit the space bar to try to pause it every time. :-) And I'll try using the fire button to start games, of course. I like the idea of the program pausing on introductory screens to show off the graphics a little. I'm on the Mac right now, and Cropky is working well on Atari800MacX.

Oops. It was that easy. It's working now on my Linux Atari800. I'll have to try the Mac next time I have it booted up. Thanks!

Thanks for the help. I tried your settings, but with no success. It loads up to the title screen and then stops loading altogether. I have even left it for a little while to see if it would be finished when I got back. I'll keep tweaking the settings. Maybe I'll get it to work yet.

I don't have a lot of experience with soldering, but I'm lucky because I have a dead 800 power board to practice on. The only problem is that it doesn't have chips, but a number of the joints might be similar to the joints for chip sockets on an 800XL board. I haven't had a lot of time to practice, but a while ago I found a video that seemed to help a lot with the basics: I'm not actually on the list for an Ultimate 1MB board, but I'm thinking of putting myself on the list for a 2nd run if the time comes. I'm also thinking of doing the little power mod for the Ram320XL on my 800XL, but I still want to practice. Until then, I'd rather use the pigtail.