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phipscube

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  1. phipscube
    There were two versions of Doom made, one for standard Aries2 Machines at 54MHz and one for Aries3 machines at 108Mhz. Its this version that runs much smoother on the RCA model but on my N505 it runs exactly the same as the standard version. I've heared other owners of the N505 experienced the same problem. Nobody has commented on the N504. Would be interesting to hear how it works on that model.
  2. phipscube
    I'm very interested in knowing why the Aries3 version of Doom still runs at exactly the same speed as the standard version on my N505. The videos i've seen of the Aries3 version running on the RCA model look alot smoother.. Maybe its a bug? or the N505 is gimped somehow.. I would certainly like to see future games take advantage of the Aries 3. If you make the stick slimmer it avoids having to cut the casing of the controller. I've successfully performed the slim stick mod on mine and other folks controllers allowing the full range but not destroying the casing. You can even use the stick from a standard PC wingman controller that the Nuon controller is based on. These can be bought for next to nothing on ebay.
  3. phipscube
    doctorclu was interested in seeing how they ran, so I took the time to show him. I won't be playing the Atari 800 stuff on the Nuon (not that they are even playable).. nor Doom, it was just a bit strange to see it running at the same speed as on my N501 even thought its was the Aries 3 "optimised" version. This brought up the question of if the N505 (and possibly the N504) are gimped. I've seen Doom running on the RCA Nuon on youtube and its MUCH smoother.. My main hope with the N505 was to get a smoother running Tempest 3000 too. I also just want to give the homebrew games a try, i've not played them all yet, but Decaying Orbit seems pretty good
  4. phipscube
    Ok I tried all three, I seem to have the same problems you had. I couldn't even start M.U.L.E. I took videos so you can at least see what the speed is like. its pretty slow looking but maybe its faster than on your N501? Excuse my messy setup I'm mid-hack with the ports... trying to figure out where to mount them, I don't want to cut the front. Probably use my N501 top cover (Its pretty scrached up) to make holes in the side. Might spray paint the cover chrome or something too (store the N505 cover away somewhere safe).. 20220115_152842.mp4 20220115_153057.mp4 20220115_153336.mp4
  5. phipscube
    I got lucky and snagged it for 230 euros from Germany. It's got snags and scratches but is generally fine... I saw another boxed unit has just sold for 600 euro ? I'm just sitting at my PC right now burning all the homebrew games... one of them is the Atari 800 Emu ? Does it have many games included? I wasn't sure if I should add ROMS to the disc, but assume it has games included in the NUON.CD file...
  6. phipscube
    I have recently got an N505 and hacked in some N501 control ports yesterday... I tried Aries3 Doom and have the same issue. It runs just the same as N501, jerky as hell. You'd imagine the extra processing speed would automatically make the games smoother.. I wonder if the BIOS is gimped somehow? Or the clock? My BIOS version is attached. Be interested to hear if its the same with N504...
  7. phipscube
    I'll give you 90 euros for 2x polyface chips and 2x controller boards with loose components (if you don't have all of the components, then a list of parts I need to find).
  8. phipscube
    Maybe a donations page can be set up to help? I'm willing to send a donation towards this. I'd love to see an active development scene for the Nuon
  9. phipscube
    Its much neater and easier to modify the stick barrel to make it thinner, thus move to the full extent needed. I've done so on my own and another Nuon buddys controllers. See my post a few pages back for details. Attached are some before and after on some I did the other day
  10. phipscube
    It cost me 100 euros brand new sealed from Germany (I'm in Denmark). My tip is to be patient as they do pop up with low starting bids at times
  11. phipscube
    I finally got a logitech controller for a reasonable price, but quickly found out how useless the analogue stick is due to there not being enough travel. I followed a guide on nuon dome that suggests making the stick thinner which I thought would be a much nicer solution than making the hole in the casing bigger. Plus I have an old wingman pad hanging around that has the exact same stick in it. I can keep the original safe and hack the wingman stick instead There is an inner thinner stick buried inside the outer part of the stick and its just a matter of carefully cutting the outer away to reveal it About 1 hour of cutting, snipping and filing later I was done and now the controller works great! Here's some photos
  12. phipscube
    If it worked with multibutton it would feel pretty ok for games that work with digital only. I'm not really sure if the limitation is the remotes controller chip or the unit. Maybe some of the Nuon gurus know? Its the same with the original Toshiba SD2300 remote and also with the N501. But if a more advanced IR controller could be used the that would help. The other problem is not all games work with IR and the ones that do have no way to use analogue stick input via IR. So if say an N64 controller was used in the hack instead, then there is no way to harness the analogue stick (or even extra buttons for that matter) on the IR input. The games would need patching or re-coding or something fancy that I don't understand I have wondered why VM Labs didn't make wireless (IR or radio freq) the standard, and have maybe an all in one remote/game controller. I have a Commodore CDTV which uses a similar idea and its remote/controller is ok for games. Its much simpler 2 button affair but its fine for Amiga games. There was a wireless controller on its way but it was way too late It could be possible to make a wireless controller but it would need to interface with the control ports via an adapter... but then there is the whole polyface chip problem too... As for hacking existing pads with polyface chips to be wireless, well it could be possible but beyond my understanding. All i've done here is hacked into the remote and extended the buttons to the jag pad buttons
  13. phipscube
    Well I have managed to make the joypad hack! It works reasonably well. The biggest drawback is that the receiver only accepts one button press at a time, it cannot handle multi button presses (eg direction + fire, has to be direction or fire) so it takes a little practice to play for example Tempest. But I found a way with tapping quickly the directions and fire alternately. Once the first powerup comes and autofire is active it is much better! I have tested Ballistic too and that works really well! It works with freefall but is just as unplayable as with a real digital only pad... it relies on analogue and this doesn't have it. I don't have Merlin racing, Tetris or Space Invaders yet but I think it could be ok with them too
  14. phipscube
    I'm going to basically use the jag pad as a shell for the remote. The IR diode will poke out where the wire would be and i'll make some holes to insert batteries. I'll wire A to enter, B to return and C to number 4 (so it at least has all the buttons needed for Tempest) and then maybe some of the keypad to other buttons if I can. Its more for fun than anything, not expecting it to be any good Yeah its probably never gonna happen with Tempest 3000 re-issue... but one can wish
  15. phipscube
    I've just recently got myself a Toshiba SD2300 and N501... I bought IS3 and a faulty Jag pad from you (which is almost delivered). I plan to hack a generic toshiba remote (came by accident with the SD2300) into the Jag pad to see if I can make some kind of working controller for now... if you manage to make some new controllers with Lee then i'll be buying two! .... also if you happen to maaaybe at some point think about making a re-run of Tempest 3000 i'll be instantly buying a copy!!!
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