manterola

If it is the same version, I remember there were some hidden codes to activate unlimited lives... I guess.

Yes, very odd. Just want to reiterate, I did the exact modification you did, nothing else, a piece of wire between pin 5 and 7, and then I pair it with a Nintendo pro controller, that's it. Your can see the version of the board on the pictures, and I also got mine from Amazon but like 3 years ago. It doesn't make sense... The controller adapter shouldn't know whether it is a Sega Genesis or not... Or maybe it does know...by checking that the console is not trying to poll the 3rd button and start button and actually not toggling the multiplexer. Just brainstorming here.

I connected pin 5 and pin 7, and it has been working perfectly for years. It actually works for games that support two buttons.

I have not checked the expansion yet. But it came with a piece of Velcro to keep it in place. It also came with the original power supply. I opened the computer and found that the pigtail with RCA is a composite output which works great (it is connected to one pin of the main IC). So I am pretty happy with it.

Not an Atari, but still proud about it, and for 5 euros... First time typing in a computer, it was in one just like this little Sinclair (minus de RAM expansion).

Sorry, I have been out of town. I will find out the values you asked me and let you know.

I have some question about Williams cartridges. Who put together the Williams ROMs circulating around the interpipes? , where did they come from? Are they dumps from commercially available cartridges? It looks like someone adapted disk version games to cartridges given the titles I was able to find: Archon2, Alley Cat, Zybex, Colossus Chess. In other matters, I received my first batch of PCBs and I discover why the original design of Bill Williams includes a RC pair connected to the flip flop reset: it is needed during power up to delay the reset pulse and my guess this is needed to start the cartridge at a known state. I added the RC pair, but I used other values since I only had 0.1uF capacitors available but I kept the RC about the same: so I used a 10k resistor. I tested my PCBs with that mod and it worked. Therefore, beside other minor modifications, I have sent the updated PCB design to fabrication, and I will be able to test those PBCs in about 10 days. If someone is interested in having some of the revised PCBs or some of the ones not working out of box, but easy to modify, to create your own Williams cartridge, please contact me. I am sure almost everyone has a spare Pacman or Star Raiders cartridge to repurpose.

I'm going to miss this one. I'm on a trip with no access to Atari 8 bit greatness

Similar Retrotink clone you can find everywhere (Aliexpress, Ebay) is the retroscaler2x. Another option is to find a 4:3 LCD TV (with S-video) for cheap in a thrift store: you shouldn't pay more than $15 or maybe $20. Of course, the bad quality conversion and/or artifacts could still be present as it varies from TV to TV and from Brand to Brand, but when I see one for $10 or so, I try my luck.

Yes I am. For what you posted in the schematics we were pretty close: that clock signal going to flip flop is the same, and the signal going back to Rd 5 is the same. The Williams cart uses a ls175, which I mentioned before, but I used an ls174. I also miss adding a jumper to allow the use 32k eproms, but it is really not that important. Once I get my PCBs I can send you a cartridge for your to p lay and explore. Edit: as @phaeron pointed out, the main difference is that S5 and S4 are connected to the unused half of the ls139. Probably that hidden banking scheme was never fully implemented, and/or never documented, which it is pretty awesome we are discovering that today.

So did you get the original Williams Cart schematic!?!? I used the one posted on March 10th.

I am sending this PCB for fabrication. Then I will see whether it works or not. If it is working I will share the gerbers if someone is interested.

4 years ago or so I got belts from audio lab of Atlanta Georgia. Audiolabga.com for my hong kong made 1010. I have not checked, but if you have the measurements, they might have some of the belts you are looking for.

The best I could in level 9:

FYI. This is how it is done in A8PicoCart. else if (!(pins & CCTL_GPIO_MASK)) { // CCTL low addr = pins & ADDR_GPIO_MASK; if ((addr & 0xF0) == 0) { bank = addr & 0x07; if (addr & 0x08) { RD5_LOW; rd5_high = false; } else { RD5_HIGH; rd5_high = true; } } } So, A8Pico actually decode A7-A4 (checks if (addr & 0xf0) is zero i.e. if A7-A4 are all zeros) then it looks the A2-A0 bits for the banks (addr&0x07) , and finally the A4 bit (addr&0x08) to en/dis the cart with RD5.