marcosmeanos

Not yet and as much as I would like an all singing all dancing setup the amount of use it would get wouldnt justify the cost so Im thinking of geting a Chinise kit for about £15 or pre built £20. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162396635524?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

Thanks Mojo I will swap some chips tomorrow. I have checked for cold joints and checked for any components getting hot but it all seems OK so far. Fingers crossed that it's cpu or tia as I can't see any riots for sale over here at the minute

Just had to get my daughter off the junior So I could retest the woody Sadly still a solid black screen other than when I use select or reset switch and get a little snow on the screen for a split second

ok chips are right, left, left so all good and I just lifted and reseated them all. Both crystals were leaning a little but have been straightened. 10.04 volts into reg and 5.08 out measured directly from pins. Sadly my other 2600 isn't socketed so unless I can pinch the 2600 at my parents tomorrow I wont be able to test chip swaps

Hi all, Ok why I decided to go on ebay is beyond me but I ended up with a 6 switch PAL woody that "will not tune in to the tv with no further testing carried out" So this sixer displays a black screen when powered on (I'm using a known rf cable, psu, game) and so far I have cleaned the power switch contacts, reflowed power switch, tested the voltage reg that is putting out 5.08 volts and 5.05 volts at rf unit. When I poped the cover of this 1981 machine I discover its absolutly spotless inside even under the main board with not one bit of dust..... hmmmm so I look a little closer and unless im mistaken the riot, cpu and tia should have the notch in the chip lined up with the notch in the socket? The cpu notch and socket notch are at different sides to each other so im thinking someone has been pulling parts and throwing them back in again Am I correct in asuming notches must line up? The mainboard is a C012283 REV B

Awsome cheers for the info guys.... I joined Atari age to ask about switch mode and It was sat right at the top of the list as most recent post so now it looks as though I will be spending some pennies

Thanks for the reply Mojoatomic. One last thing is did you have to change anything else on the board or is this a true drop in replacement because as H454 mentioned the data sheet talks about adding a capacitor on the input side did you use one?

1) would you use this with a linear or switched mode power wall wart? 2) would using a switched mode power supply and a standard 7805 have the same results other than heat output of the regulator?