Thomas W

I managed to get the boot up sequence after switching from an old 52x CDROM to a newer DVD RW drive, with the CD being written on a fairly new USB writer, before I did this I wasn't getting anywhere, so it may be down to the drive. I've been using Imation CDRs which I've always found to be pretty reliable, but it might be worth trying a different brand. Thanks for the tip.

Hi Just out of interest I was just wondering what settings you used on NTI to get a back up. I've tried using the copy cd function on NTI CD/DVD Maker 7 and haven't managed to get a single attempt to work on the CD I was trying to copy (Baldies). One attempt got me to the intro, but that was it. Do you need to do it track at once or session at once? Or do you need to copy it as seperate audio files? Thanks for any advice Thomas

Hi I've no idea about adding an RF modulator to a stacy, but surely it would be better to get a cable that could go from the monitor port to a scart socket or similar if you want to use it with a TV. I've used some of these and the picture is a darn site better than RF. I don't think you'll need to turn off the LCD if you do this (using a RGB to Scart cable), as as far as I'm aware the Stacy should handle all this for you (i.e. if it's mono monitor the manual states it'll show the same picture on both screens, if it's colour the manual says it will do the same.. though I can't confirm that). Stacy portables have got to be way to rare and valuable to hardware hack, when you can just use a bog standard ST.. Thomas

Maginnis I was taking a TT keyboard apart just the other day, which is basically the same keyboard as the Mega STe, so thought I'd throw in my two pennys worth. The keyboard is a fairly simple affair consisting of a plastic membrane like circuit, with each key acting like a switch. I would certainly open it up as you can't do much damage. There's a connector that resides under the plastic case containing the keys and this circuit, check that this is still in situ. If you still get no joy take apart the section containing the keys. You have to push back a load of tabs on the underside to do this, I found it best to start at one end and work to the other loosening tabs as you go. The plastic circuit in mine had some gunk in, which had somehow coated the plastic and degraded the circuit. It didn't look a particularly easy thing to fix in mine and I would imagine wouldn't be opening to soldering as it would probably just melt. The joystick ports are soldered into a flimsy bit of proper circuit board. They seem to suffer from the same problems as a standard ST keyboard, as in they come loose, and you would have to desolder them and then check the connections. I can't see what else might go wrong other than some corrosion on the circuit somewhere or a blown chip.