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RXB 2020 C DONE AND RELEASED! RXB 2020C.zip

Except of course that xxl does contribute significantly to the community and has done for decades. That doesn’t lessen how much of a dick he’s being lately but it’s not like he’s just the average luser.

Here is a large zip file with the documentation for SCHOLASTIC SPELLING LEVEL SIX PHM3062. REQUIRES SPEECH SYNTHESISER. Aimed at US Grades 5 to 8, UK grades 6-9, rest of world ages 10 to 14. Read, print, OCR (difficult!) or PDF as you wish. The zip contains hi res (400dpi) clean scans of the 48 page A4 manual, the folder insert, and the new style green cartridge label. The manual is on high acid newsprint and mine is quite yellowed needing much cleanup. The print is to the exact edge of the paper which may cause difficulty if you wish to print on a printer that doesn't allow that. An odd piece of software not at all useful in the UK, with unexplained phonetic characters, an ancient "joined up writing" script my parents may have been taught (not me or my son)- the q and g are written identically. Some odd words. The vocabulary is described as "high usage". US spellings include catalog, neighborhood, realize, recognize, liter, no space in applesauce. When did I last use the word raincoat? flashlight? beverage? Gasoline is a US word. Nonetheless- more of these oddly archaic and regional manuals to follow... SpellingLevel6.zip

A few years ago, I started working on the next version of the programmable Jagtopus cartridge. I wanted to add support for larger Flash memories (8 MB and up) and larger save EEPROMs (say, 32 kB), and maybe a few other extras. I designed a schematic, started routing the PCB, then I got distracted by other projects and never finished it. To be honest, the lack of demand for bigger carts was also a factor. Recently, there have been talks of projects needing more than 4 MB of ROM. Yeah, I know what's you're thinking: what's the point of such a project, now that the JagGD exists? Well: - not everybody has one - some people prefer physical cartridges over SD cards or digital downloads, either because they like collecting physical stuff, or because they feel part of the nostalgia is using the console like it was used back in the day. Here's where I need your feedback. As homebrew developers: - what do you think of the idea? - would such a product be useful to you, and if so, how would you use it? - besides the larger memories, are there any extra features you'd find useful? (please note that unlike the Skunkboard and the JagSD, this would be a cost-optimized design for releasing games, not a development tool or a multicart. So don't expect anything too fancy ;)). At the moment, this is just a potential interest check. No promises, no preorder lists, nothing has been decided yet

Proposal: Wizadry on the Woodgrain - Tiki Wizadry on the Woodgrain I thought it might be worthwhile to have a comprehensive Wiki/Tiki - a single place where all the accumulated technical knowledge could be stored. The concept is a place where the technical information can be brought together in a curated and carefully crosslinked reference to programming the machine, with the technical details as thorough as possible. If you want to know something about colours/palettes, then you'd go to the above page. It's only a brief start, of course, and the rest of the tiki at the moment is just garbage from the default install I did. But it does seem to be working properly, and I'll be making some effort whenever new stuff pops up to add a note to the tiki and slowly it will, I hope, become a valued resource for all of use. I invite you to join/register and add content as you think fit. My approach will be to always link to original sources, where appropriate, but also have a local copy of relevant information so that it is not lost. For example, if something is mentioned here on the forum then the tiki should link to that post - but also preserve the technical content so that it is readable in-context with the rest of the information each tiki page is discussing. Attribution is very important. Anyway, so that's the plan. As with all things, one might lose interest -- but I hope that several of you may find some use/interest in participating in this. As an aside, in collating the small bit of information about colours I have already come across a few things that I had forgotten about... and also run into a few broken links on stuff that I wanted to know about. Hopefully this will fix all that.

Hi, Thought this might be appreciated.

This is fantastic. I have hope in the human race. A two week user of this forum sees through the bullshit nastiness of a long timer. Thank you!

Honestly...Shut up. Reading your posts kills grey matter. If you don't like the approach here, code something better using only purist hardware as opposed to just criticizing an amazing piece of work. This toxic attitude isn't doing the community as a whole any favors whatsoever.

New version is posted. I don't know why I didn't realize that was just a tile shift to fix. I was so fixated on being out of tiles.

Thanks, guys I need to do two things yet: revisit the Yamaha detection and write a new manual. @Atariboy2600 has agreed to do new artwork for this one, and @Nathan Strum has agreed to do the artwork for Galaxian once it's ready.

We found the problem in RXB, the routine turning off the sams cru bit 0 actually was turning it on. Classic99 shows the warning. Lesson learned, believe the warnings in classic99

It's interesting sometimes to see the fresh perspective of a newcomer, who experiences for the first time the handful of toxic people in this community the rest of us have just learned to put up with. And yes, in the A8 community it seems the way to know that you have created something truly special is if a crowd of self-important "experts" comes out of the woodwork to hijack the discussion thread and trash it.

I stumbled upon Classic99 many years ago when I was surfing the web..(surfing the web was a saying back then) and because of that I found a new love and appreciation for the computer and thanks to you it is still going strong. Thank You Tursi for all that you do for us. I am thankful. You rock.

Next assembling some manuals.

sheddy_green_merc.xex sheddy_cherries.xex

Sometimes my daughter insists on me doing some handicraft with her. While ironing beads are made for 8-bit art, I had to order extra bags of black and tan beads as the usual mix is not suitable for black backgrounds and tan borders. All art was taken from the Shamus file but I found it interesting that the ION-Shivs look quite different when frozen..

I have been able to implement PLA, and made several changes to make the macros more cleaner and save a few minor bytes. I've added in the optimizations to allow for a write. Here is the latest any color background 36 char kernel. 36 Char (20210220_C).zip BTW thanks for the color suggestion too. I am color blind but it is much more readible for me too.

@Philsan @Stephen try this one Maybe one day @ilmenit will make RastaConverter versions for the Atari 7800 ? Wonderland by @Piesiu Commodore+4 https://tomseditor.com/gallery/i/33068/wonderland-by-piesiu&lang=en DLI only changes 3 colors per line, but that's enough. Timing almost perfect (A7800 emulator has some small issues) Colors much better now (about 80 thist time) WonderlandByPiesiu.a78

Hi, Here's a Silica Shop Catalogue from 20th August, 1982, which appears to be the earliest one posted so far.

... as a for-example, a single reference point documenting all of the bankswitching schemes, how they work, and sample source code both for usage and in emulator code... would be very useful. I'll make a start.

PAL version? Sure. I took a guess at the colors being I have no access to a PAL TV. Might as well provide an update. I've added jumping. It works relatively well, but ultimately gives the player a bit too much freedom to move thru the level. Currently only Stage 1 is enabled. I have most of the data necessary for the other stages, but need to handle sprite clipping (ducking into pits) and making the water a hazard. Enjoy. NTSC Version: congo_poc_NTSC_20210220.e7 PAL60 Version congo_poc_PAL60_20210220.e7

Hi, I stumbled again about Globeron´s scans and finally made some PDF from them (see the "All-in-One" ZIP at the end of this post here, to save you from all the clicks ) EXB80 Ton Brouwer: EXB80-80Kol in Extended Basic-Ton Brouwer-1992--NL-OCR.pdf Assembler Programmpaket Fiedler Hilsberg Winkler: Assembler-Programmpaket-Fiedler-Hilsberg-Winkler-1992--GER-OCR.pdf TEXT80 Modus XB: TEXT80 Modus im Extended Basic-v2.2--GER-OCR.pdf XB HiRes Graphis Support Hulpke: Exended Basic HighRes Graphics Support A-Hulpke-1988--GER-OCR-quer.pdf Exended Basic HighRes Graphics Support A-Hulpke-1988--GER-NONOCR-sharper.pdf And finally, the second version of the (german) manual files I linked together some time ago. I found some better scans and some more infos: Mechatronic-80ZK-Install-GER--Cables--Pinouts--RMS-v2.pdf One more scan I did some years ago, another german manual from Kleinschmidt: Mechatronic-80-Manual-GER-Kleinschmidt-RMS-OCR.pdf and some more Mechatronic-80-Basic-Settings-GER-J.Boening-RMS-grey3_OCR.pdf X80 Befehle-GER.pdf and one that I extracted from an ARK-file: Mechatronic-80z.ark-NEW-OS-3.1-GER+ENGL.pdf And just to have it all here, here some more PDFs in englisch: mechatronic-80 column peripheral manual.pdf Mechatronic-TI-Mouse-BAK.pdf ALL-in-ONE: __Mechatronic-80ZK-ALL-in-ONE--RMS-v2.zip

*** Game #200 ** - Mine Maze. Strategy game: drill the rocks in the mine to save the blocked miner. Added joystick support. Next steps: move to 250 compiled games... ? [GAME] Mine Maze (198x)(D.H. Slinn)[Compiled by TMOP].zip TI99_Compiled_Games_List_V1.4.3.xlsx

Christ. Everyone seems to think they're a coder of the purest master race, quick to criticize the work of others, but fail to contribute back to the community in any meaningful way whatsoever. This port looks amazing, work like this should be encouraged. Instead, two members specifically, feel it's in their best interests to act negatively and then cry when people fail to find motivation developing for the A8 platform.

Besides enjoying my 80K GramKracker; I think old salts like myself would prefer an improved update to the NanoPEB rather than a new modern CPU interface to the internet. My Windows PC works fine for that purpose. My TI-99/4A does have some upgrades, like; F18A video and USB keyboard interface that I use with a four port K/V/M that shares a 22" VGA/HDMI monitor and wireless keyboard with my Dell Optiplex Mid-tower PC and two Dell laptops. Old age, I guess, prevents me from learning all the new stuff, and I just don't have time to do so. Before I retired in 2006, my job required that I be a very skilled PC user, and be familiar with IBM mainframe and mini-computers along with AIX/UNIX, and for my needs now, I don't need to spend all my time learning new technologies for my hobby systems, that I just want to have FUN playing and sharing with other like minded hobbyists. However, I'm not a gamester. I do like coding, and forth is my favorite, but I did develop a lot of code in Quick Basic for a previous employer. It was my son who got me to help him with a problem he encountered typing a program from a 99'er magazine that subscribed to just after I got the TI-99/4A for the family at Christmas 1982. It included 6 TI modules, TI Speech Synthesizer, RF TV adapter, and I added a cassette tape recorder and TI cable, but I was surprised that he had put it all together, and had saved several games to tape, but this battleship game had a flaw in one algorithm, so dad got to help solve that one, as I had learned all about communications traffic across telephone switching systems algorithms when I worked for NEC America in the early 1970's. I never had this much FUN when I was a kid growing up in Northern California. So now I'm just making up for all the FUN I missed out on as a child.?

Ok, drpeter, here is the result of your fixed version. Thank you! drpeter_bled.xex

Let's admit it: with the already excellent stock video quality you can extract from even a stock 1980 CTIA 800, the more we think about a video-interface upgrade solution that would not only bring our fleets into today's digital, large-screen formats, but also securing our precious retro-experience, just the way we remember it !! Enter SOPHIA-2: RF, Composite, S-Video and multi-resolution Analog and Digital video-interface (over DVI) with just a simple swap of your existing GTIA ! In other words. a truly native, digital video-interface upgrade that will not cripple your existing analog video-generation assets, and with a pretty low power-consumption profile!! Now, I am not sure about you, but any trace-cutting, shields de-gutting, or external plastic case "carnage" on the 800 not only is out of my scope (as a collector), but it will quickly bring my inner "psychopath" out in full force (don't ask me why). Therefore, if you are wondering about a simple, constructive way to install Sophia while leveraging the 800's architectural benefits, this one may be for you. Let's start by some words of caution and scope: There will be TWO types of CPU-boards that you will likely find: Older, standard 6502 CPU version, or... Newer revised, simplified Sally 6502 version. BEWARE that the pin-orientation of ALL system chips is REVERSED between these two boards. Although I have these two types at my disposal, this guide covers installation on SALLY (1983) CPU board.. If your CPU board is the older type, you can follow this guide with the exception that SOPHIA-2 will have to be installed with the opposite orientation as you see here (that is, Sophia's pin-1 will be near board´s bus interface). Failure to do so will DAMAGE your Sophia-q board, terminally: Sophia's video-ribbon length is a function of your chose EXIT PATH from CPU board. You may end up needing MORE than 12" (30cms) of length! There will be NO soldering and NO cutting or non-reversible modifications to the 800's external case or internal frame. The only two fully-functional (and invisible) modifications will be: Top shield-plate (underneath removable top-cover). This elegant and simple change will serve you well for Bit3, Incognito's PBI bus-extension ribbon and Sophia-2 video-ribbon. It is basically a mandatory upgrade if you are serious about 800´s expansions, plus it will improve expansion-bay cooling. Internal small guide-slot on plastic-frame of expansion-bay, to allow underneath passage of video ribbon from CPU compartment into expansion-bay (for a final exit path right under top-cover existing space-gaps). So without further ado: STEP #1: General Preparation: GENTLY and SLOWLY remove supplied precision-socket from your Sophia-2 assembly. you will NOT needed it. GENTLY Remove 800's bottom case (5-screws), detach from top-case (3-screws) and detach bottom shield-MoBo assembly (9 screws) Unhook MoBo/Shield-plate from power board, and unhook expansion bay tray by GENTLY prying its four hooks between MoBo and shield-plate (accesible through right and left sides of shield-plate assembly). STEP #2: Extract CPU-board from its slot and GENTLY and SLOWLY remove your GTIA from existing socket (outer-left in Sally board). SLOWLY and uniformly seat-and-press SOPHIA-2 on CPU-board GTIA socket, as DEEP as you can. WARNING: it turns out that sockets are NOT all built to the same tolerances, and you may end up with a partial seating or FULL seating. BOTH will end up working. The reason for the above is how close the integrated video-ribbon pin-header ends up with respect to the socket's frame, as shown of left-picture above. These variances will show up even on the SAME TYPE of CPU board!!! (trust me, I have several ones!) Gently fold video ribbon over Sophia, for exit path on left of board (shortest-possible) and and slightly slant downward before wrapping on the back of the board, as shown: WARNING: notice the tolerances and clearance required on the riobbon-side of Sophia. If your CPU board DOES NOT have the required space between ANTIC and GTIA, or you have passive components right underneath Sophiia's integrated red-header, you *WILL NOT* be able to install it on your CPU board. Now proceed by preparing guide-slots on expansion-bay plastic-tray. You will need a rotary tool for this, grinding slowly and gently. If you DO NOT want to do this, simply store the plastic tray in a safe place where you can restore it back if you ever decide to uninstall Sophia. This is how it will end up looking if you are gently (exactly the same approach for Incgonito's MMU ribbon, at the front): Not its time to re-install plastic tray, CPU board and GENTLY bend and guide Sophia ribbon through its new, discrete exit path. It will look like this: WARNING: I installed a very thin, protective plastic film (transparent) between CPU board and Sophia's ribbon, on the back (between Plastic try back wall) just to make sure that CPU board's solder-through pin vestiges do not pinch Sophia's ribbon. Just a precaution, you may not need it, depending on how low you position the 90-degrees ribbon fold. Remember those THICK, meaty shields on the 800? Well, if there is any RF radiation coming out of Sophia, they will now serve you well. And if they can't trapp it, NOTHING can ! :-)) Both seating-variants of Sophia will end up fitting, as I could tell (my CPU board socket ended up handling a FULL seating of Sophia): Now we are ready for final re-assembly, in exact reverse order. It is also time to inspect the 800's internals for corrosion... First and foremost place is the crappy tin-frame of the RF modulator (same crap as my 800 XL's shields). It appears looks like mirror-glass on my 1983 daily-driver 800. Not bad for 9 years since its last opening: On final assembly, notice the discrete and clean exit path of the ribbon, from the bottom of the plastic frame. The slots we made are not invisible, and will also allow you to retract and store the video ribbon INSIDE The expansion bay, for absolutely no external signs of Sophia-2 install: Now proceed with final case assembly, and notice the final modification required on Top-Cover shield (notice the slot, left is original untouched, and right is my "trainer" cover, where you can seen the modification): Upon final assembly, my 30cm ribbon barely made it, but looks celan and minimalistic, just the way I like it: And now onto my next adventure... building upon the strengths of Sophia, LCD / flat-screen and video-processor framework, for building a dual-screen setup... but that will be another (crazy) story.... Enjoy!!!

In an interview with @PacManPlus, I proposed to design such an adapter, but you have to wait for the YM detection problem to be resolved.

For me, I actually was referring to the size of the lips in this one: I think my version will have the standard sprites... Also, interesting that they used the original Pac-Man shape for this, and not the Ms. Pac-Man shape (yes, they are different) Wait, does that mean it's Pac-Man in drag?

Hi Matthew, Thank you for the extra info. After spending all afternoon on it i finally got it to work. The VM version of ISE 14.7 (on 2 different PC's) just closed as soon as you go into to read the chain. I tried V12.2 on a Windows 7 virtual machine and then both a 32 bit and 64 bit VM with ISE 14.7 (which somebody kindly sent me). All of these just couldn't find the programmer, either of the 2 i now have ( i bought another one from Amazon incase it was that). It tried all sorts of messing around with the drivers, both on Windows 10 and in the VM. I finally got it working by installing the non VM version of 14.7 straight onto Windows 10 and doing the swaps of the libPortability.dll and libPortabilityNOSH.dll files. I suspect i may not have had to do that just to use the iMPACT program. For anybody else that has trouble, device manager should show 2 devices with the DLC10 programmer connected as the picture below. I suspect that some of the problems with the drivers in the VM was that while to could transfer the Xilinx USB cable device into the VM as it was a USB device, the other Jungo can't be and stays in the host Windows 10. I'm sure people have run ISE in a Windows 7 VM ? Jim

Last few color experiments - let this be a help for others. Choplifter! XEGS old gold style Road Race Classic sepia Stellar Shuttle Light violet Dark violet for comparison in a light gray case Airball XEGS old gold Archon XEGS old gold orange sticker

I'm here... And a very rare picture of me behind the counter, sadly just after the Atari era had finished..Me on the left...

56,686

The original Mechatronic Eprommer was rather limited. It would do 21V and 25V EPROMS (i.e., 2716s, 2732s, TMS 2532s, 2764 and 27128s). The modification allowed the user to program 12.5V EPROMs. At the time, (mid 1980s) it nicely served the needs of the community. I used, and still have, a working unit. The instructions that came with the unit are easy to follow and the software will guide you through the process. You have to use the "Buffer Commands" screen to clear the buffer and load the EPROM code into memory. Then, switch to the "Eprommer Commands" to select and burn the EPROM of your choice. Easy-peasy!

I went through my binder labeled MDOS programming (contents of): GenProg Manual TASM Manual. Some notes from Genie An Email from Tim on how to compile MDOS (both floppy and H versions!) MDOS-IPC v1.0 A reminder to read the MDOS History File. A copy of the 9938 manual. Discussion of the hole in MDOS called External DSR Support ? Sadly, no notes from Beery, though I know I attended his MDOS programming class.

A small bug fix for pcode tool was released today (attached). Also the same author created a Windows program called Read Dir which, when given a folder containing disk images, will create a directory listing of every TI and pcode disk it finds and dump it into a text file for easy reference. Great for archiving purposes. I have attached an example listing of my UCSD Pascal directory to give you an idea. p-code-tool V3.1 manual.pdf p-code-tool-V3.1.exe read_dir-v1.0.exe Read-Dir manual.pdf tmp.txt

There are some really nice Speccy games but I always have disliked the colour clash which is why I've never owned one but I do have a gamebase for the Spectrum so play the odd game in that. I'd been spoilt from seeing sprites and decent sounds so the Speccy was like a downgrade (well that is how it felt at the time). Shame, If I had bothered to look at some stuff I might have got one in the end back then.. Being a pretty game is nice, being a playable game is better..

Knock it off, there is no spoon. Especially you, emkay. Every time I look at this topic, I get sad that Al is PAL only. Does that mean he has to leave the U.S. now? No longer compatible? ?

Off you go then! You go show that C64 community how super you are.

If you want to connect from Windows (or Mac, Linux, etc.) then try Syncterm whch supports ATASCII. https://syncterm.bbsdev.net/ -JP

Contributions would be great for C examples. As long as theres no copyright material included. The C side of things is beta at the moment so will be good to have some more examples and tests in there.

Really like the multiple example, best way to learn the lib @CyranoJ Are you open to contribution to add new C examples into the lib?

Got 3 Genesis games for 20 bucks today

Some time next week. Boxes started being glued today (along with Party Line) and then they will get shrinked. This will be the next 50 copies. After that, we have to get more boards. We do have boxes, manuals, etc for another 100 after this next 50.

Directly from Steven Reid: "The problem ended up being documentation on one of the bits in IOCNTL being inverted. One bit controlled SLEEP vs HALT when IDLE was executed. It was documented wrong. Change 1 bit and the Wafer tape would have been fine... but discovery made it too late to save it from the axe. Sad. :("

Seriously, unless someone is addicted to the screech of a vintage dot matrix printer, there’s no excuse in 2021 to recommend anything except a FujiNet. You have 18 different output emulation options (I just counted) and near-infinite possibilities once you have the PDF or HTML output file. What’s better than that, especially considering the bazillion other things you can do with the very same FujiNet device? These are all quick snaps of a short BASIC program I had handy, “printed” to the FujiNet ATASCII printer, then actually physically printed to a standard networked inkjet printer from my laptop over my home LAN. Same could be done from a phone or tablet or whatever else you use for modern-day real world work or fun.

Retro computing is harder than retro gaming in many ways. You are on your own, and parts can be hard to find. Its really takes patience and perseverance to put together a great setup (or 2,3,4 :D)

For great justice.

update: 5bithief.bin

Hello all, Here is the first official demo for Lady Bug Arcade (NTSC and PAL60 ROMs). This is a completely playable version of the game with the following restrictions: 1 player only. The full version contains options for 2 player (alternating) and 1 or 2 player versus modes (where one player controls the lady bug and the other the insects. In 2 player versus, the players take turns controlling the lady bug and compete for a high score). Standard difficulty only. The full version contains options for NOVICE, STANDARD, and ADVANCED, plus a special CHALLENGE mode that adds randomly flipping doors and the SPIDER, a special insect that can open doors! ?️ 2 mazes to select from. The full version contains 6 total mazes (arcade plus 5 custom mazes), plus the option to play a game with all mazes, either in rotating or random order. 4 different insects. The full version contains 8. 8 levels (the full version contains 99). Once you complete PART 8, the game wraps back to PART 1. SaveKey disabled. The full version will save the top 5 high scores for all 4 skill levels. OBJECT Use the joystick controller to guide the lady bug around the maze to collect all of the dots and bonus items while avoiding the skulls and insects. A life is lost when an insect catches the lady bug or the lady bug collides with a skull. The game ends when all reserve lady bugs have been used. OPTIONS The demo current only contains one game play mode: 1 PLAYER, STANDARD difficulty. To play, press RESET or the joystick button. You can also use the joystick to press up/down to cycle through the Scoring and Instructions, High Scores and Credits. MAZE SELECT When you start a new game, the MAZE SELECT screen is displayed. Move the joystick left/right to select between the two mazes (ARCADE maze and a custom maze) and press the button to continue. LEVEL START At the start of each level (or part), the level's information is displayed: Current PART #, the bonus veggie and it's point value, the 3 letters that need to be collected, 2 - 6 skulls that must be avoided, and 3 hearts that also need to be collected. GAME PLAY The level starts with the lady bug moving to the middle of the screen. Use the joystick to maneuver the lady bug around the maze to collect the white flowers (dashes) and the 6 bonus items (3 letters and 3 hearts). The bonus items will cycle through three colors: RED, YELLOW and BLUE. The lady bug can also move through the green doors by pushing against them to "flip" them. Insects cannot flip the doors. STATUS At the top of the screen is the current game status, including the SPECIAL letters, EXTRA letters, and the bonus multiplier (2x, 3x, 5x). Try to collect the letters and hearts when they are a certain color: - collect hearts when they are BLUE to increase the bonus multiplier to 2x, 3x and 5x. The points awarded for collecting the dots and bonus items will be multiplied by this value. - collect letters when they are YELLOW to spell out the word "EXTRA". If you are able to collect all 5 letters, the current part will end and you will be awarded an EXTRA lady bug. - collect letters when they are RED to spell out the word "SPECIAL". If you are able to collect all 7 letters, the current part will end and you will be treated to a special VEGGIE BOUNTY HARVEST screen. On this screen, collect as many veggies before the timer runs out. SCORING Collect a flower (dash/dot): 10 points * the current multiplier value (2x, 3x or 5x) Collect a bonus object (letter or heart): 100 points when it's blue, times the current multiplier value 300 points when it's yellow, times the current multiplier value 800 points when it's red, times the current multiplier value Collect the veggie in the middle (1000 - 9500 points) TIMER As the level progresses, a timer moves around the perimeter of the maze. Each time it makes a full rotation, an insect will enter the maze (up to 4). SKULLS Scattered throughout the maze are skulls. If the lady bug collides with a skull, a life is lost. If an insect collides with a skull, it is sent back to the middle and will re-enter the maze when the timer makes a full loop. Note that VEGGIES After the 4th insect has entered a maze, the current veggie will appear in the middle. Collect the veggie for big points (shown on the level start screen) and to also freeze the insects for a few seconds. If an insect collides with a skull while the veggie is out, the insect returns to the middle and the veggie is lost, but a new veggie will appear once that insect has entered the maze. GAME OVER The game ends when the last lady bug reserve is lost. If you have earned enough for a high score, the high score entry screen is displayed. HIGH SCORE ENTRY In the high score entry screen, maneuver your lady bug around the maze and pass over the letter/number/symbol to add to your name (up to 6 characters). If you make a mistake, move the lady bug over RUB to erase one character or over CLR to start over. Move the lady bug over END when you are finished. You have approximately one minute before the timer reaches the top to enter in a name. GAME CONTROLS Press SELECT during a game to return to the title screen. Press RESET during a game to start a new game. Flip the Color/BW switch (2600) or press PAUSE (7800) to pause a game. Press the joystick button to resume. MAZE DISPLAY OPTIONS Lady Bug Arcade uses a special method of blending and interlacing to display the maze in 3 colors per line with minimal flicker. If you prefer a completely non-flickering maze, you can flip the Right difficulty switch to 'A' which will display 1 color per line. Additionally, if the colors are too bright, you can flip the LEFT difficulty switch to A to darken the colors. RELEASE PLANS Lady Bug Arcade is about 90% complete. We are currently planning on releasing it in November of 2021. We will keep you posted with more info as it becomes available. Any feedback is welcome! GOOD LUCK! Thanks, John ladybug_arcade_demo1_NTSC.bin ladybug_arcade_demo1_PAL60.bin PS If you are able to test the PAL60 version on a CRT, any feedback regarding the colors (too bright/dark/recommendations) would be appreciated!