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Everything posted by oracle_jedi

  1. Not all the 1084S monitors were so versatile. My 1084S-P monitor is NTSC and will only show PAL in monochrome. I have not see any dual standard Commodore monitors in the U.S. Being in Chicago though you are close to at least two world-standard appliance vendors who still stock CRTs able to display composite pictures in PAL and NTSC. Alternatively some LCD monitors can also do it. My gallery has a Samsung TW215 with my PAL 800XL connected. Some people have suggested buying multi-standard monitors off EBay too. The was a JVC unit recently that was popular but I forget the specs.
  2. Check this: http://tldp.org/LDP/LG/issue70/arndt.html It's basically the same for the 850. I use this to connect to my RedHat Linux machine with Ice-T.
  3. Picked up two C1702 monitors off Craiglist last week. Haul included a boxed C64 and 1541 disk drive. This is the first 64 I have owned, so I am having some fun discovering what it can do, but also some frustration. Sure, I remember the C64 when it was the hot machine, lots of friends had them. I remember playing games like Elite, Entombed, Dambusters and Thing on a Spring. Now when I try to find those games to download, I am finding they are almost all PAL-only (this is an NTSC machine), or they come in T64 format. I have a VIC-20 and I have Jim Brain's uIEC device, I am familiar with D64 and PRG files, but how I get a T64 file to load on a real 64? Are most 64 games PAL-only? Where is the "fandal" or "atarimania" site for the 64?
  4. Do you tested the one disk version? In fact I use Numen for testing every card before shipping. Downloaded another copy from Fandal and this one works. Previous one was from Atarimania. Thanks
  5. Tested my 320XL card last night on a PAL 800XL bought from B&C about 18 months ago: Works: Bombjack, Yie Ar Kungfu, Commando. Kinda Works: Mean 18 (display corrupted on 2nd shot - will check again) Nogo: Numen - loads all the way but then blank screen. The disk images work ok on the Emulator but not the real hardware. Hardware used for test: Atari 800XL PAL - SVideo mod, BASIC disabled by lifting pin 11 of the PIA chip, no internal memory expansion. 320XL expansion card in default configuration. I am going to do more testing in the coming days, but even without Numen working, this is a wonderful expansion option.
  6. Archivers sells a plastic photo storage box with built in dividers that works really well for XL/XE cartridges. The box includes a carry handle and is easy to stack horizontally or vertically. It also includes a space underneath for larger prints, that works well for manuals including the larger ones shipped with the original 400/800 cartridges. Each box will store about 70 XL/XE type cartridges. Amazon has the same unit listed here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S14TMG?ie=UTF8&tag=atariage&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000S14TMG
  7. VMS! Seriously. Rock solid reliability and true clustering! You type "HELP" you get... HELP! You press backspace - the cursor backspaces!! Amazing isn't it!, because on most NIX's, help gives you nothing, backspace gives you garbage and don't even get me started on VI.
  8. I soldered a wire from R160 to ourside the RFI shield, and then connected the EZ hook to the wire there and wrapped it in electrical insulation tape. My reasoning was that it was not possible to insert the entire EZ hook assembly through the hole in the RFI shield, and so running a line out seemed simpler. Throughout the installation I was trying very hard not to directly hack the 5200 mod board, since if the upgrade didn't work, I was planning on trying to re-sell the mod to a 5200 owner. This was also the reason for the 40-pin IC socket cradle I made instead of soldering the 8 GTIA lines directly onto the mod. Since I now know the mod does work, you could cut the audio line, feed the cut wire through a hole in the RFI shield, and then re-attach it. But if you use the EZ hook to attach to pin 37 of POKEY, you will have to carefully place the plastic part of the hook so it does not get dislodged when you re-assemble the 400. I didn't like the idea of that large hook assembly "floating about" inside the 400 HTH
  9. * jumps on the dead topic * The TI is an interesting case when discussing a 1090 style box. The TI started with sidecars to add memory, disk drives, printers and speech as well as other options. As more units were added, the user had to locate another power socket, but also enough desk space to accommodate an ever widening machine. In the end TI scrapped the side-car solution and replaced it with a 1090-style Peripheral Expansion Box, which placed everything in a single unit. Estimates state that 1 PEB was sold for every 10 consoles. While convenient, it made expansion expensive, as the user had to purchase the pricey, bulky and noisy PEB before they could add extra memory, a disk drive or the RS-232 interface options. I find it interesting that for the TI-99/2 and TI-99/8 machines, TI planned a Hexbus solution of intelligent peripherals that no longer needed the PEB. The Hexbus solution sounds a lot like SIO. Maybe Atari got it right in 1979.
  10. Very welcome! I added four new pictures showing the cooling holes, the SVideo socket and an annotated image of the CPU board showing the eight tap points ( use zoom as the text is small ).
  11. oracle_jedi


    With a half-inch hole making tool, the SVideo line is added. The 5200 AV mod is visible through the grille.
  12. oracle_jedi


    Further cooling holes in the 400's RF shield. A similar set of three were drilled on the other side. Since they are not visible from the case they do not have to be even.
  13. oracle_jedi


    Additional cooling holes on the 400 RF shield prevent heat build up on the CPU board. These holes are visible under the 400's grille so they are spaced to make them even. The centre hole was not drilled as it would have dislodged the card guide under the shield.
  14. oracle_jedi


    Annotated image of the 400/800 CPU board showing the eight tap points (zoom the image to see the annotations)
  15. oracle_jedi

    Atari 400 SVideo Mod

    These pictures are the installation of the 5200 A/V Mod inside an Atari 400. The mod was sold by www.8bitdomain.com and as the name suggests, was designed for the 5200 game console. I installed this one inside an Atari 400, which required a good bit of lateral thinking.
  16. Installing the 8bitdomain (aka Retrokidz) 5200 AV mod in an Atari 400. Disclaimer - the following instructions are based on my own experimentation. I will not accept any responsibility for damage to your beloved Atari 400 as a result of trying to replicate this! The 8bitdomain 5200 AV Mod is designed as a solderless AV mod for an Atari 5200 game system. The mod adds Composite and SVideo output to a 2-port 5200 game console. It achieves this by having the user remove the original GTIA chip. The GTIA is then inserted into the mod, and the mod board inserted into the socket vacated by the GTIA. The mod taps eight lines of the GTIA to generate its output. Signals to and from the GTIA are not interfered with and most of the 40 pins are simply pass-thrus on the board. Indeed, the mod only really requires eight lines on the GTIA: Pins: 3, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27 and 31. It also uses pin 37 of POKEY to generate the audio, which is output to a standard 3.5mm audio jack. Since the 5200 and the Atari 400/800 systems share the same basic architecture, including use of the GTIA display chip, the mod works in an Atari 400. However installation is more complicated and not solder-less. Although the mod works in a 400, it will not physically fit. This is due to the following: On the 400/800 CPU board, the ANTIC chip is too close to the GTIA to allow the 5200 AV mod board to fit. The mod board is designed to be low profile but requires several inches of space to the right of the GTIA chip to fit properly. In a 400/800 CPU board, this space is occupied by the ANTIC chip. The board could be stacked with an IC socket to lift it clear of the ANTIC, but this does not work either. The board has an seven pin connector that sits to the side of the GTIA socket, into which is connected the Composite, SVideo and audio outputs, as well as the audio in from the POKEY. On a 400/800 CPU board, this space is occupied by the motherboard. Also, even without lifting the mod board clear of the ANTIC, the board will not fit under the heavy 400 RF shield. Atari did not leave enough room for after market modifications. Therefore, to fit the mod board into the 400, we must replicate the required pins to a more suitable location outside of the RF shield. You will need: Nine pieces of wire cut to about 2ft each. I use 25 gauge electronics grade wire from Fry's. If you can get multiple colours it will help you greatly. Each piece of wire needs to be stripped to expose 1/16 inch of bare wire at each end. A good soldering iron. A good quality de-soldering tool. I recommend a solderpult. A clean static free work space. I also recommend a 40 pin IC socket and a small piece of strip board (veroboard). This is in addition to the equipment recommended by the mod provider: 1. Phillips & Flat blade screwdriver. 2. Needle nose pliers. 3. Sharp angled cutters 3. Hand drill (I used a power drill). 5. 1/8" and 1/4" bits. 6. 1/2" hole cutting tool. 7. Awl or scribe 8. Xacto knife. 9. Metal Ruler. 19. Anti-stat mat with wrist strap 11. Tin Snips For the purposes of the description I will use the following orientation: Top refers to the component side, bottom to the foil side of any circuit board. 400 Main Board: south is the controller jacks side, north is the CPU and RAM boards side, east is the power board side. CPU Board: south is the edge connector, north is the opposite side. The GTIA is located on the west side of the CPU board. Picture references can be seen in my gallery under "Atari 400 AV Mod gallery" NOTE: I also STRONGLY recommend that you add some additional cooling to your 400 when you do this mod. I ended up drilling four vent holes along the top of the RF shield, plus a further set of four holes at the base of the RF shield, to facilitate cooling the 400's CPU board. A power drill with a 3/8 drill bit will cut through the case in about 4 seconds, so this is a simple additional step while you have your 400 in pieces. To install the AV mod board: 1. Disassemble the Atari 400. The Atari 48K memory expansion instructions give a good overview of how to dis-assemble a 400. http://www.myatari.com/ebay/48k400.pdf 2. On the 400 main board, locate resistor R160 next to the POKEY chip. The chip is the large 40-pin IC on the main board and typically has a code of CO12294. Pin 37 is on the east side of the IC and located toward the RAM and CPU boards. Immediately to the east of the IC is a resistor marked R160. De-solder the south leg of the resistor. Then insert one of the pieces of cut wire so that both the wire and the resistor leg are in the barrel. With 25-gauge wire this is possible. Then re-solder the resistor leg. (See IMG_2806.JPG) 3. On the CPU board, locate capacitor C302 immediately north of the GTIA chip. The GTIA is western most chip with and typically has a code of CO14805. The western leg of C302 is adjacent to an unused barrel. Examine the board under light and you will see both of these connect to pin 3 of the GTIA. This is the GND line. Either de-solder the western leg of C302 or the unused adjacent barrel, and solder in another piece of cut wire. In my example I used brown wire. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 4. Locate Pin 11 on the CPU edge connector. Note you are looking for pin 11 of the edge connector, NOT the GTIA IC. Immediately above pin is an empty barrel. This traces back to Pin 31 of the GTIA (the L0 line). De-solder the barrel and solder in a wire. In my example I used white wire with a blue stripe. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 5. Locate Pin 2 on the CPU edge connector. Note you are looking for pin 2 of the edge connector, NOT the GTIA IC. Immediately above pin is an empty barrel. This traces back to Pin 25 of the GTIA (the CSYNC line). De-solder the barrel and solder in a wire. In my example I used red wire with a blue stripe. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 6. Locate the three resistors to the immediate east of the south of the GTIA chip. It is hard to read the silk screen on my board, but the southern most resistor looks to be R307. De-solder the southern leg of each resistor, adding a wire to each one, before re-soldering them. These three resistors connect to pins 22, 23 and 24 of the GTIA (the L1, L2 and L3 lines). In my example I used the following colours: pin 22 - yellow, pin 23 green, pin 24 white. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 7. Again, locate the same three resistors to the immediate east of the south of the GTIA chip. The north of each resistors connects to a common line that can be traced to pin 27 of the GTIA. This is +5V line. De-solder the northern leg of any resistor, add a wire and re-solder it. In my example I used black wire. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 8. Locate the empty solder barrel to the immediate east of the three resistors in the previous step. Solder in a wire to the empty barrel. On the bottom of the CPU card you can see this traces back to pin 21 of the GTIA. In my example I used red wire. (See IMG_2799.JPG) 9. Group the eight wires on the CPU board and tie with a plastic tie to keep them neat. Thread the eight wires from the CPU board, plus the wire from pin 37 of POKEY, through the hole in the RF shield next to the colour adjustment that is mounted on the CPU board in the north east corner. Do not add the POKEY line to the bundle with the plastic tie. It will be simpler for future dis-assembly if the POKEY line is left separate. Use electrical tape to secure them to the side of the RF shield. 10. Solder a 40 pin IC socket into the strip board. You will need a small piece of strip board only slightly larger than the IC socket, although there is space for much larger ones if you wish. The IC socket only needs to be soldered on pins 3, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27 and 31. I recommend also soldering pins 1, 20 and 40 to ensure a good secure fit. 11. Taking your bundle of wires from step 9, solder each one to the strip board so that the relevant connection is made back to the GTIA inside the RF shield. If you followed my color convention the connections are as follows: Pin 3 - Brown. Pin 21 - Red Pin 22 - Yellow Pin 23 - Green Pin 24 - White Pin 25 - Red with Blue Stripe Pin 27 - Black Pin 31 - White with Blue Stripe. (NOTE: Pin 37 of the POKEY is not soldered to this strip board) 12. Insert the mod board into the IC socket on the strip board ensuring you keep the same orientation so that Pin 1 is connected to Pin 1. 13. Using a drill, mount the Composite, SVideo and audio jacks into the 400's case. I found that the the under-side of the case, on the left hand side as you look at the machine, toward the front, made a suitable mounting point. This allows the new connectors to stay hidden from view. Be sure to mount the jacks high enough to allow the plugs clearance from the desk, remembering that the case plastic is angled. (See IMG_2815.JPG) 14. Attach the line from pin 37 of POKEY to the green EZ Hook of the mod. Seal the connection in electrical tape to ensure no shorts. 15. Insert the seven pin connector from the Composite/SVideo/EZ Hook jacks to the header on the mod board. The blue line should be closest to Pin 20 of the IC socket, the Green line closest to Pin 21. (See IMG_2804.JPG) 16. Test and Re-assemble your Atari 400 with Composite and SVideo out. When you re-assemble the 400, you will need to carefully feed the excess wire from the CPU board through the hole in the shield as you drop the main/CPU/RAM board assembly back into place. Make sure the entire assembly drops neatly back into place. If there is any displacement, remove and try again. 17. Congratulations, you have now joined an extremely select group of Atari enthusiasts. There are probably fewer Composite/SVideo capable Atari 400s than Atari 1400XLs! Please! - post some picture of your AV modded 400s if you do this!
  17. Sure, I will get some more detailed instructions together this week. In the meantime, the guy I bought my AV mod from has more for sale: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 320530916051
  18. It was Alan Kay who described the 128K Mac as a Honda Accord with a quart-size gas tank, something about being beautifully engineered, great to look at but no much use for anything. http://www.i-programmer.info/history/people/438-alan-kay.html?start=1
  19. I shoe-horned the 8bitdomain 5200 A/V mod into my Atari 400. It gives very good SVideo and Composite output. You can see the pictures in my gallery. HTH
  20. oracle_jedi


    Complete. The 16K Atari 400 displays a good stable image on the Commodore 1084S monitor.
  21. oracle_jedi


    Almost finished. I don't have a tool to make the hole for the SVideo line so that will have to wait. The speaker is back in its place now.
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