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Everything posted by oracle_jedi

  1. They are interchangable (assuming you remove the plastic casing on the 800's RAM cards). I have a bunch of spares. If @Jonny swanny wants to PM an address I'll send you one next week.
  2. Original disks are not protected and can be installed on the HD. The original game is protected by manual word look ups. I reccomend still saving to a fresh file at regular intervals
  3. I'd advise you take a moment to familiarize yourself with authentic Jaguar carts vs high quality reproductions if your not already familar. Although most repro sellers clearly mark and price their wares as such, we've seen a few "super rare!" carts show up on Ebay and elsewhere that clearly were not what they were claiming to be. At these prices the crooks have a strong incentive. I notice B&C even sells complete Atari Karts boxes/inserts and manuals for $35 on Ebay. Find a loose cart or make and label a cart, some shrinkwrap and boom. $500. If the person you plan on gifting this to is likely to play the game, and not keep it as a shelf trophy, I'd recommend you buy the B&C package and wait for a loose cart to come up. You can then spend the ~$350 you save on some more Jaguar games (check the AtariAge store!), or even a PS4 and a game for when they get bored of the Jag. Good luck!
  4. I have no reservations about sharing my templates. Attached is a 7z archive file of a Paint Shop Pro image of a brown Atari cartridge label with the program name and CX code deleted. The deletion was done in PSP by copying select bits of the background over the text until it was erased. The result is a grainy color that mimicks the original cartridges. It could use some sprucing up, but once you've printed it, it looks okay. To add the name of the program you want, I use this site: https://www.myfonts.com/search/optima/ Optima is the font used for the original Atari cartridge titles. The CX code was Harry Fat or perhaps Harry Obese. The web site allows you to test sample text. So you can select the color you want it (yellow or orange hues tend to work best) and then it will generate the selected text. You can select right click on that and save the image to your hard drive. The image will be a PNG file. I suggest you select a larger font than default. If the text is too small it will pixellate when you resize it. Again I use Paint Shop Pro. Mainly because it the program I had. If you find something that works better please let me know. It isn't cheap but they have a time locked free eval download. I don't know if it locks out any functionality. Take the text PNG files and load them into PSP with the template I gave you. Then use PSP's "erase background" option on the PNG titles to leave just the text. Then copy the edited PNG files and paste them as a new layer onto the template, using the resize/reposition options to place them exactly where you want them. Once you have the finished article, you can save it as a JPG. I use Sticker You to create the actual labels. I select "Removable White Vinyl (Glossy)" as the material and "White Vinyl" as the format. I always select straight cuts and try to size my labels with a border to allow for some overprint. StickerYou has been pretty spot on for the most part but some cartridge labels (especially for the TI99/4A) have been hard to size right. If you're only printing a handful you could even print the same label a few times and then select the one that comes out best. Sticker You takes about 10 days to ship. Here's a few of the labels I made for the Atari 8-bit. You can see there is a tendency to get a noticeable white line around the edge of the label. I use a Xacto knife when applying the label to remove any excess bits. This is a label I made for the Sord M5 Multi-Cart. I tried to get the quick function key reference on there but it printed too small to be readable. To be fair Sticker You did warn the text was probably not going to be readable. I should have make it larger. TI labels are a pain. The aspect ratio causes Sticker You's program issues. You need to make the labels much squarer, with huge matting bars, and then cut them down yourself. The Vinyl is hard to cut, even using high-grade craft quality material cutters, so be warned and be patient. You can also see how I didn't get all the old label goop off the shell I used for Dragon's Lair. I made this one before Felyx started sharing his efforts and Gaztee started selling official Cyrano J Jag ports in the Atariage store. Still I was proud of how I got the overlapping layers to work with the J of Joust obscuring the bird. blank_cart_label.7z So have fun. They won't be as cool as Mr. Robot's work, but you can try out a few options and see what you think works.
  5. Pioneer CLD-D704? I had one BITD. Absolutely beautiful thing, and still the best home audio experience ever. I swear they must dumb down the DTS on modern home movies, it just doesn't sound the same.
  6. From British TV show "Chocky", at around 22:30 we see the kids playing Space Invaders on an Atari 800. There's also a cool scene earlier when Dad shows up with his new Citroen CX. I love that design. An Atari 800 and a Citroen CX. Mathew's parents rocked! Chocky S1E2
  7. Ray Carlsen is an amazing engineer, a gift to our retro community and a helluva great guy. An added bonus for me is he lives about an hour from me, maybe a bit longer if I take the scenic drive over the mountain pass. So when I powered up my 1084 after a six month hiatus, and was presented with a garbled display, Ray generously offered to take a look. We agreed that shipping the unit was generally a bad idea, so I would drop it off at his place keeping a safe social distance in the process. About a week later Ray contacted me to say the 1084 was fine. In fact all it had needed was an adjustment to the controls. I was puzzled, but it wouldn't be the first time I have missed something so completely obvious, and besides, my 1084 was apparently good, and I got another scenic weekend drive to go pick it up. When I got it home though, the Amiga refused to display anything meaningful. I then tested a Commodore 64 (svideo). Good display. A Sord M5 (composite). Good display. A CGA PC (digital RGB). Good display. An Atari ST (analog RGB, sep H and V Sync) - Good display. I tried two more machines that use analog RGB with CSYNC and none of them would display a stable image. This used to work. I have photographic evidence this used to work. That at least is not my faulty memory. Ray had tested his C64 and C128 to test composite and RGB and having gotten good results concluded there was no problem. He showed me the schematics of the unit and walked me through some trouble shooting. The schematic for the Commodore 1084D1 shows pins 7 (CSYNC) and 8 (HSYNC) being bridged. But on the circuit board these pins are not joined. Tracing the motherboard, Pin 7 seems to move down to a solder pad that is adjacent to a pad for HSYNC and then stops (yellow line). The silk screen shows what I believe to be a CSYNC solder pad (green line), but it doesn't connect back to Pin 7. Note the damage to the ground plane was from an earlier repair, and has been repaired (out of shot). Looking at the component side it doesn't appear anything bridges the two signal lines: Is there some component missing here? I never noticed anything falling out, and nothing rattles. I can't see evidence of a missing component such as the hole that is left if you yank a resister out. Following Ray's advice I used some wire to bridge pins 7 and 8 and the Amiga was once again able to show a stable image. All modes now work but I am baffled how this ever worked in the first place.
  8. With gentle pressure most of the keycaps will pull off. I use nylon tools designed to pulling smart phones apart. Start at the edges, use a longer tool and gently prize them upward. A few keys - from memory the space bar, the zero on the number pad, maybe the Enter key and the Return keys have small metal braces that you need to push off using tweezers or something similar.
  9. Ordered some parts on Saturday for restoring an Atari 1040ST. I listed out the parts I needed, using the codes on his website, asked for a final total with shipping and also quoted my customer number, which I think helps alot. Brad got back to me Saturday night with a final cost, and I paid him via PayPal on Sunday. Parts arrived today. I've ordered dozens, possibly hundreds of things from Best over the years including my 4160STE and my Jaguar. I've never had a problem with Brad, and I appreciate that he continues to support our ancient machines.
  10. In an earlier discussion, someone stated that the upgrade ROM from Best disables CP/M compatibility. I have the ROM in my Indus and I thought CP/M still worked, but I plan to test this when I have finished hacking the 520STFM on my bench.
  11. No. Not even close. My first "retro" computer was a VIC20. I sold it in 1985 to help pay for a 1050 disk drive for my second "retro" computer; an Atari 800XL. The 800XL was destroyed around 1995 when I plugged in a Commodore PSU by mistake. The Acorn Electron I bought second-hand in 1986 for a night-school class where they wanted projects done in BBC BASIC, I sold on when I graduated the class. The Atari 520ST I bought in 1987 I sold in 1989 because I wanted money toward a PC. The TI99/4A I bought at a car boot sale in 1994 I threw out, because it had that weird 6-pin Y/R-Y/B-Y output and getting composite out of it was too hard, plus none of the software I had seemed to run any different than on the NTSC 99/4A, and the UK machine's brushed metal finish was bent and looked like crap. The oldest retro machine in my collection is my Atari 800. Bought it used in 1986 because it came with a heap of (pirated) software, and because I just always loved that funky 70s design. I sold it to a neighbor's kid to help pay for the ST, but bought it back from her when she was done applying sparkly princess stickers to it and got bored with it. I still have it, sans sparkly princess stickers, in the original box with foam inserts.
  12. I had the drive belt disintergrate on mine. Since it is the same Tandom mechanism used in the 1050, I got a replacement from Best. It worked fine. I also upgraded the main ROM when I fixed the drive belt. The updated ROM reduced the busy time after IO completes so the drive stops spinning. I also installed a Super Charger. I used CP/M to play Zork and also run Turbo Pascal. I was quite impressed with TP, it behaved pretty much exactly as I remember the DOS version.
  13. Yeah the 800XL was pretty good for WP. If you could tolerate the 40-column screen. When I decided to get rid of the ST I actually copied all my First World Plus files to the Xlent Word Processor on the XL using a transfer cable I got from Page 6 magazine. Someone from the local Atari club gave me an Atari 1027 LQ printer, and for a while I used that for all of my official correspondence. I only stopped using it when the ink ribbon failed around 1991.
  14. In fact I had not heard of it until I read your note. Checking into this, it seems Alice Pascal is quite impressive, and now free to download. I just grabbed the disk images and will try to find time to play with it in the near future. I guess one of the problems "back in the day" was getting accurate information. I didn't own a modem and with no local BBS, long distance dialing would have been out of the question anyway. I relied on Page 6 and Atari User magazine, and the guys at BaPAUG (Bournemouth and Poole Atari User Group). Thanks for the tip on Alice Pascal.
  15. I think for me it was sometime in mid 1989. I had an Atari 520ST. I was at college studying a computer science program. The college used RM Nimbus PCs, a mostly IBM compatible machine, and we used Turbo Pascal 2.0 for coding. I found TP to be so much better than any programming language I had on the Atari. I got PC Ditto for the Atari and used it to boot MS-DOS 3.3, copied TP from school and continued working from home. The system was slow and tedious. I got a second disk drive that helped. I got an SM124 monitor which was so much better than the TV. I was seriously thinking of spending the money from my part time job on one of the new hardware PC emulators for the Atari when I had a epiphany; if I am spending all this money and effort to make the ST run PC software, maybe I should dump the ST and get a PC instead. I thought about buying the Atari PC1 but I didn't like the lack of expansion slots, so I sold the ST and eventually bought a used Advance 86B, a horrid, crappy British PC-XT clone. Later I upgraded to a Zenith Z200 (286/hard disk/MDA), then a TriGem 286 (286/hard disk/VGA), then a Zenith Z300 (386/hard disk/EGA), and eventually I salvaged an IBM PC-AT from my first post-grad job which I upgraded (Pentium/hard disk/SVGA/Sound Blaster). That AT, which I acquired in 1994, remained my main PC until 2005 undergoing several upgrades until they stopped making PC-AT standard motherboards.
  16. Let's not forget the Commodore MAX. Based on the same chipset at the 64, but with 2K of RAM, no BASIC, no serial port, no monitor jack and a touch sensitive keyboard, it was clearly intended to be a games console in a similar vein as the Sord M5.
  17. I bought a PSU replacement from Exxos. It worked well enough. It is now in my PC1. Others have used a Pico: https://blog.troed.se/projects/atari-st-picopsu-replacement/ These guys sell auto-switching units: https://centuriontech.eu/product/stpsu-st/ I've also seen people put Meanwell PSU's inside the STe case. Finally I would expect Best Electronics and/or B&C might have replacement units available.
  18. Thanks for the schematic @ParanoidLittleMan I'll try to find some time this weekend to see how to mod the board with these extra diodes. I don't have the board in my hand right now but I don't recall the resistor being there either. If I get it working I'll post an update.
  19. Paranoid Little Man has some games he adapted to run off cartridge on his website. The files are 128K, so after splitting they are 64K. The CO70208 board only seems to accept 27C64, 27C128 and 27C256 chips. In an older thread, @atarifan49 stated that you had to add a 27LS08 chip to the board to make it support the larger PROM chip, but didn't offer up a schematic. Does anyone have that mod to allow the larger PROM chips to be used on the this board?
  20. Looks like I missed the cut off, but 286,710 on Super Pac-Man
  21. A1 thru B5. Could not figure out C5 at all. Final score: 45,680.
  22. Completed A1 thru D4, although I think I scored lower than @therealbountybob With all this talk of Marmite and smörgåskaviar, maybe we need to add Food Fight to the HSC list.
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