Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

26 Excellent

About mikro

  • Rank
    Star Raider

Contact / Social Media

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Košice / Slovakia

Recent Profile Visitors

4,172 profile views
  1. I would be much more careful if I were you. There is a long thread on AF where various aspects of such adapters are discussed. Most of the cheap China-made ones are just "pass trough" circuits, i.e. you LCD must support 15 kHz horizontal refresh rate. Then there are well proven solutions like Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) which work well but are quite expensive. Everything inbetween has offered inferior quality and/or had issues for overscan resolutions (demos, games). Not saying that this is the case here but judging from his YT comments (where he admits he hasn't tested it with ANYTHING ELSE than a few games) I would be very catious to spend $100+ on this. EDIT: start reading here: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20971#p346101 (see especially evil's posts with his results and test prg).
  2. If you trust the seller, it's possible some capacitor and/or potentiometer has just a cold solder joint, i.e. it got damaged / twisted / disconnected during the transport.
  3. There is a lot of ways to do that but since you have asked about the best way https://www.alza.cz/auto/powerplus-powx1704-d5471371.htm
  4. Almost. I wouldn't trust FB/AF very much these days. There's a lot of "old schoolers" who fell into this trap, only to see their stuff relisted for double price few months later.
  5. Interesting. Anyway, fix should be easy in this case, one NOP before the read should flush the whole pipeline. I can imagine how much fun was this pipelining behaviour to discover. :)
  6. I presume it is not but - isn't this just a CPU cache issue? I have never heard of 68030 not being able to run SMC code with caches off.
  7. This is a good one but not the one I remember - a) it is "horizontal", mine was "vertical" (the tube going from the top to the bottom) and b) the values were on the bottom, I'm 100% sure of it. Generally, it was also more colourful (using the GTIA modes). Another hint?
  8. Hi guys, for a world I can't remember the name of the (mega)demo. It had a part where you could see a nice plasma effect and most importantly, totally configure it (via arrow keys) with, IIRC, four or five values going from $00 to $ff. So with all zeroes you could see a static tube/vertical rainbow and increasing the values you could make it move (apply sine waves to it). It was surely one of the famous megademos from the 90s like WFMH but I don't have time and energy to go through them all. Can anyone help me out here?
  9. Please refrain from posting offtopic threads in the programming section.
  10. Right, the top is reusable apart from the floppy drive hole.
  11. mikro

    Broken VLM

    That Jaguar is full of surprises. Thanks guys.
  12. mikro

    Broken VLM

    Hmm, it seems that there really was something strange going on... no matter what I do, I'm unable to replicate the "ignoring" pattern - now whatever effect I choose, it always works. Out of curiosity, what is that "CD+G" mode? If I understand it correctly, VLM - set/keep current VLM effect, VLM R - random VLM effects but that CD+G... no clue. It produces only blank screen, sometime with coloured borders.
  13. mikro

    Broken VLM

    Stephen, thank you very much! I was able to select 1-4 which finally showed some FFT-driven wave forms in the rhythm of the music. It seems that most of the effect are far from optimal, at least as far as music processing goes (incl. that starfield 9-1 posted above)
  14. mikro

    Broken VLM

    Hey guys, after a really long time I have managed to get back to my Jaguar. Since some time I have the CD unit as well. Can't remember the last time I tried VLM but when I did today, I couldn't understand how to get it working. Basically I insert Tempest 2000 audio CD (what else, right?), I see the menu, can control volume, start/stop playback, ... but that damn VLM wouldn't do a thing (see photo). In the centre something looks like a movement but that's pretty much it. Reading everywhere that it should be really just plug & play I'm wondering what could go wrong here? Audio is obviously working, so the next thing which comes into my mind is broken A/D converter or something similar. Has anybody experienced something like this?
  • Create New...