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tripletopper

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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. I'd like to buy one, depending on what the answers to my questions are. The big one is "Will it work with a Flashback-modded INTV 1?" The middle 3 questions were answered by re-reading the initial post. Yes you can use a INTV controller for Keypad and the Genesis Josytick independently, Yes you can keep it attached and just use an INTV controller for 16 way games, and most likely yes for my PS2-> Genesis fight stick adapter. And finally, "For power, can a USB plug work, and then from there, a USB -> AC adapter and/or a USB-> 3 AAA/3AA NiMH battery pack?" If all the answers are in my favor, I might want a second one for other opponents playing against me who want one who have similar complaints, depending on the price and amount of user-friendliness involved. Which I heard was $20 each for a user friendly version or $10 for a solder monkey's version. PS. Thought of new questions. To save on power outlets (don't want to run into a Sega Genesis/CD/32X problem) , would it work with a M/F Power Cord Extension cable with 2 USB adapters on the side for the 2 adapters, kind of like a power splitter? Finally will it be obvious which one of the INTV joystick cords is for the INTV 2 controller, which plugs into the INTV 2 console, and which is for the Genesis? My biggest question is with Flashback modded INTV 1's. Haven't gotten an answer within a month. And no new news since last post, just the announcement and a couple of "I want one"s. Update and answers please?
  2. Can you beat $5 Paypal including shipping, no labor. Is it considered in unused shape? Is it the exact same model sold on Console5 that says compatible with Colecovision, 2600 and 7800?
  3. I have a "Mostly Working" coloecvision. If you supply power to it, it turns on. If you put in a cartridge, it reads it. The only problem is due to bad instruciotns from Adam's House, I permenantly ruined my Joyport 1 on the Colecovision, so I can't plug in any joystick. they told me to pull the port, so I pulled it apart, and it got ruined. I'm not getting much help from the repair shop, who told me to to find a non-working colecovision, and transplant the joyport. he says he can solder it for $25 -the $10 analysis fee. I asked if there is a generic equivalent part for the right angle Colecovision DB9 port? The repairman said there was none. I asked A couple companies whihc may have the piece, and they said they didn't know enough about the particular repair or the Colecoviison itself to answer the question. I'm trying to get the repairman on board. All he has to do is solder on a new 9-pin connector. But he insists on a genuine CV connector, becuase there is no part number on it, so he can't look up equivalents. I found this searching for a solder-on DB9 right angle connector: https://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/3530-14009.php?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=3530-14009&utm_campaign=DB9%20Right%20Angle%20Female%20Connector%2C%20Solder%20Type&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ZPcBRBkEiwA-avvk6cT-8xUjIPMCP6SxL0hcXOUZuYkZJAbaXnnP17vGGB21YoWSrEwsRoCx1kQAvD_BwE $4 shipping plus <$1 for the cost of 1, plus I know it's not ruined. A lot less in cost and a lot more sure to work than a stereotypical non-working Colecovision. The only thing I don't know is whether it's compatible with a Colecovision.
  4. I would love to purchase one already assembled to go in a FlashBack modded INTV. I'd rather have Genesis-> INTV. Genesis doesn't require a desoldered controller for an INTV fight stick, as I can use a Tototek PS2-> Genesis adapter and from there go to INTV. That is assuming I can access the keypad with a Flashback INTV controller. You should add a "standard/Flashback" toggle on both the INTV end for the keypad on the native INTV controller, and on the plug into the INTV FB->1. I would prefer you incorporate a Flashback/standard modding for a Flashback INTV controller on a FB modded standard INTV 1. Also what about the idea of using USB and a USB-> AC or USB->AA/AAA? Never got answers from 20 some days ago:
  5. I found a 5200 4-port system with no switchbox, a Competition Pro, and a few games for $15 in 1997 at a thrift store. I bought it, knowing the reputation of 5200 controllers. I had a 5200 4 port, so I tested the main console sold it, and made a little money and got the rest for free. 4 notes about it: 1 It's dsigned to be right handed with the "main button" on the left and the "Aux button" on the right. I have some left handed friends who mightbe interested ina "button swapper" 5200 adapter, assuming it's as simple as wiring pins to pins. 2) It's an all or nothing joystick. You're either centered or at one of 4 cadrdinal extremes or one of 8 diagonal extremes. 3) There are a couple digital games which take advantage of the circular restrictor of the CX-52 to assume if it's 80% or more in one cardinal direction, it cannot be considered more than 60% actuated in a perpendicular direction, hence a peripheral enforced 4-way stick. Some coders to advantage of that because it's easier to say ( I know this isn't proper 5200 code. I'm talking to humans here, not 5200 coding machines. So don't make me go all all Captcha on you bots ) "If x>+80%"... than it is to say "If X>+80% and ABS(Y)<60%" (but also takes less bits, and when you're given only 32 KB, every bit counts.) so why waste bits on a redundant line. The problems come when a diagonal is actuated becuase it's X= +/- 100 AND Y= +/- 100% simultaneously. LLine pairs which should be mutually excvlusive are no longer mutually exclusive, so there would be some funny run-time errors. I never tried it. I heard Popeye is one of those 4 way games. When I get the 5200 Sticks fixed, maybe I'll try it. 4) Also games with analog speed like Dreadnaught factor can make you faster when dodging diagonally at 141% of the cardinal speed, so it might have to be a separate category for Twin Galaxies World Records (analog control vs digital control record). One final thing about the centering. The lack of centering force makes games like Super Breakout, Kaboom, and Star Wars with their absolute position instead of relative direction work buttery smooth without the self centering. Also if someone thinks auto-centering is such a good idea that is should be automatic, and it's dumb to have a stay-put joystick, they should try Warlords for the Xbox One in Absolute mode. Even if you hav a 1 ms ping monitor, you'll be fighting centering resistance trying to dial a posiiton exactly, sometimes working with the resitance, sometimes against, and painful to keep still and painful to dial an exact position other than maximum in as little as a tenth of a second. Real 2600 paddles should be an option on Atari Flashback for PS4 and Xbox One. Otherwise their only worth is online games.
  6. There';s another site where I got the Atari/Bally switch: http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.html Also wondering if a) anyone can build a 9 Pin to 9 PIn adapter for Atari Joyhstics working on Astrocaede controllers? There's an Intelliviosn 9-pin-to-9pin adapter maker for Intellivision and he says he'll only do it for the few things he knows how to wire quickly. Can someone be hired for an Atari->Bally converter. I want to use My Playstaiton 2 Right Handed Fight Stick attached to a Tototek PS2-> Genesis adapter. Should the Genesis controllers act like a 1-button Atari controller when not plugged in Genesis? Same with 7800 and Colecovision controllers? And if that's true, will they work in an Astrocade with the proper adapter? I'd like to hire someone to make a 9-Pin Atari-> 9 Pin Bally controller adapter.
  7. 3 questions. 1) will it work with a Flashback modded INTV1? Yes? No? Only if I buy a physical pin swapper? 2) Is the other 9 pin for the Intellivision original controller so you can access the original keypad with the second Y-ed controller? If so, would THAT need a physical pin adapter to work with a Flashback controller on my Flashback modded INTV1? 3) Would it work without a genesis controller plugged in, and just use the INVTV controller straight, so I don't have to unplug it every time I want a 16-way game? 4) Will it work with a Tototek PS2 controller-> Genesis machine adapter? 5) Isn't USB a 5V circuit? If so could it be powered by USB cord (with an optional a USB-> AC adapter or USB to AA/AAA battery pack) ? Or could it be powered by AA/AAA NiMH batteries? I'm barely no longer a noob becuase I have successfully cleaned out potentiometers for an Atari 2600 and Bally Astrocade paddle, and have cleaned contacts on a Colecovision Super Aciton Controllers, and installed an INTV 1 Flashback mod, but otherwise, have very little "under the hood" experience, especially where soldering is concerned. How easy is it to install?
  8. I've got 13 Saturn controllers. The most anyone needs is 12 for NHL One of those controllers is a third 3D Controller. Does any game require both a 3D controller, and a 6-Player Adapter? (and not hard require, but improve the game in circle pad and/or analog trigger mode.) What is the largest number of 3D controllers I need to operate all Saturn games? I do have an Action Replay, so I can play games in any region, so include any game from any region. But try to find games that are not language dependent if there's no English option. A quiz game is highly language dependent, so don't include that. A grey area would be Chu Chu Rocket in a different language, where the question mark mouse would bring up a mode that displays a speech and text of the mode, and the first few play through you would have no idea what is going on, but as you get used to it, you can tell by the music and sound effects what mode you're in, but you'll be a couple seconds behind the computer in comprehending it. Finally, I know Golden Axe the Duel requires the standard controllers, because the analog triggers don't play nice, even in + mode. But most games work with a 3D pad as a standard controller in + mode. Are there any other Saturn games anywhere in the world that requires the standard controllers and doesn't work with the 3D Pad, even in + mode? Golden Axe is at most 2 players. Are any of them more than 2 players?
  9. So your saying the only game worth getting that has 5+ players and all using 6-button controllers is International Superstar Soccer Deluxe, and that's a European and Brazilian release only. And Wheel of Fortune Sega CD is the other extreme requiring 3 3-button controllers to play right without errors. Every other "3-button required" game is 2 players or less. Well I got 6 6-button controllers, one Ascii 6-Button Fight Stick, and am planning to get a PS2-> Genesis 6-button adapter for my dream fight stick, so that's all the 8 players I need for that. The fourth 3-Button controller I have can be a sacrificial PCB for my fight stick for those few games that require a 3-button controller, like Ms. Pac-Man, which really requires a joystick to play right. All right, I'm not selling a thing. Speaking of international game, would a US Genesis Game Genie be able to pay European and/or Brazilian ( and other regions of) Mega Drive cartridges? I know it plays Japanese MD. And would a US Game Genie unlock foreign Sega CD/Mega CD and 32XCD games? (the 32X cartridges may be a different issue because the cartridge is designed to not fit in a 16 bit machine cartridge slot). And would the US Game Genie allow CD cheating?
  10. Now I see the links. Thanks. And thanks for putting me on the list of Jag-Pro Re-Pros. I wouldn't buy the Jaguar to 7800 adapter, becuase it doesn't work in 2 button mode. Instead I'd get the Genesis to 7800 adapter and the Colecovision board from Edladdin.
  11. I wasn't suggesting a Neo Geo DB15 style, I was suggesting wiring it to one wire=one control can be wired into the actuators of a dismantled controller. I'm not planning to plug it into the 5200 directly. The purpose of it was to turn my PS2-style fight stick into a one wire=one function mode, which I can use a telephone operator style adapter which can change the button and joystick functions. Also I'm using the terminal block style where each wire can be hooked up to a DB 25 and adjusted individually.
  12. There's one other issue. (By the way, came on here by clicking link from the Jaguar Re-pro Jag Pro controllers.) I'll repost relevant question in this forum: a) Will they universally work with every Jaguar controller, so I can hook it up to a naked original PCB for a fight stick as well as a Jag Pad and Jag Pro Pad. b)I assume it will work in a digital manner actuating 100% cardinal, 100% X + 100% Y diagonal, or neutral, so it would be good for fight sticks. c) If that’s the case, then a few seemingly digital games will have problems when using diagonals. So using a technology used in hitboxes, maybe there should be an optional external Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber, so that if a game gives errors when you press a diagonal, just plug this in and it will only lock in a perpendicular cardinal when the original cardinal is released. So this locks out everything except Neutral and one cardinal at a time. This device can be independent and have a 5200-> 5200 adapter, so it can be used with Competition Pro Joysticks too which suffer from this problem in like 4 games or less, Popeye, Mountain King, Bounty Bob Strikes Back, and maybe one other game. This technology was originally used to lock out W+E and N+S combinations, whihc was required for hitboxes to be legal, otherwise, dual blocking gave hitboxes an advantage. Test your Jaguar-> 5200 adapter on Popeye and see if pressing diagonal gives you any trouble.
  13. 1) I earlier put in an order for 2 Jag Pro Re-Pros. Confriming the oder. Will pay in August $120 for 2 controllers + $5 shipping to US. 2) About your 5200 adapters… a) Will they universally work with every Jaguar controller, so I can hook it up to a naked originnal PCB for a fight stick as well as a pad. b)I assume it will work in a digital manner actuating 100% cardinal, 100% X + 100% Y diagonal, or neutral, so it would be good for fight sticks. c) If that’s the case, then a few seemingly digital games will have problems when using diagonals. So using a technology used in hitboxes, maybe there should be an optional external Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber, so that if a game gives errors when you press a diagonal, just plug this in and it will only lock in a perpendicular cardinal when the original cardinal is released. So this locks out everything except Neutral and one cardinal at a time. This device can be independent and have a 5200-> 5200 adapter, so it can be used with Competition Pro Joysticks too which suffer from this problem in like 4 games or less, Popeye, Mountain King, Bounty Bob Strikes Back, and maybe one other game. This technology was originally used to lock out W+E and N+S combinations, which gave hitboxes an advantage. Test your Jaguar-> 5200 adapter on Popeye and see if pressing diagonal gives you any trouble. 3) Why isn’t your 2600 adapter a 7800 adapter with 2 button mode?
  14. Looking at the pictures, the only games where it's a "requirement" to print a overlay are the RealSports Baseball, Soccer, Tennis, Space Shuttle, and Star Raiders (and maybe Countermeasure, for whatever L, E, and O is. I guess that the trinary code for the stopping of the nuclear bomb if I remember the game right, if it's based on an Atari 800 bootleg I remember playing.)
  15. Defender doesn't use a keypad button as "hyperspace" ?!?!!? How do you hyperspace in the 5200 Defender? Oh wait, the small print below the 2 player row. Any keypad button! It looks like another worthless keypad overlay, but only if they print the numbers on the select screen. I'll click the link and see if there are any "essential" ones ...
  16. My Competition Pro worked fine, until I disassembled my genuine 5200 sticks to clean the buttons. I think I'm going to get a Best Elec Gold Dot mod for 2 controllers and sure the third controller as a pad hack for a fight stick, like the Competition Pro itself. I guess if you get a Best Elec job, you'll get proper tuning of potemtiometers, and should hook up to a fight stick/ Comp Pro. Also I HEARD the 2 categories of games that fail with the Competition Pro fall into 2 categories, One is analog games, for which it's just not the proper tool for the job. The other, and I think Bounty Bob would considered one, is "4-Way games" I think there might be lazy coders wo assume you're always going to use a stock 5200 controller, and make certain assumptions, like if ABS (x) => 80% then it follows ABS(Y)<= 60% AMking the sensitivity %80+ makes it so diagonals are a dead zone. If saves memory and labor to say if X>80% and ignore Y, than it is to say If X>80% AND Y<60%, plus adding the code for the diagonal you want to lock out. I think Popeye is a 4-way game, you're supposed to press up/down to walk the steps, not a diagonal. Mojuntain King is like that too. But the problem is that X and Y are are always either +-100% or 0% X=100% and Y=100% is not possible with a stock 520 stick, but is possible with the Pro. If my theory is correct, there are 2 ways to prevent this. One is putting a physical limiter on the Competition Pro, like a 4/8 way switch gate. The other is a device in the vein of a device used for Hitboxes to be legal in a fighting game. There is a cheat where you can press left and right simultaneously on a hitbox. It was eventually considered cheating, so in order to use it, they developed a Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Direction Scrubber where the circuit takes over if you press left and right or up ad down at the same time. Maybe a toggleable Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber attached to the Competition Pro, and might as well while you're adding something, adding a toggleable button swapper so that a lefty can use that controller better.
  17. Speaking of Overlays when Mattel owned Intellivision, they had overlays for EVERY Game. Even if the game didn't use a 16 way pad and just used a single action button function (and any will do) like Sharp Shot aka Pow they printed an Overlay. Coleco was the smart ones, they literally ONLY put an overelay on any game where the keypad function wasn't self evident, (meaning anything more than selecting numbers for options) That philosophy continues with Coleco on INTV, with the only Coleco INTV game that has an official overlay being Mouse Trap. I think Atari 5200 was in the superficial camp, with an overlay made for Pac-Man. For collectors it's desirable, but for those ludists, ("ludo" being either a Greek or Latin word-part meaning "game"), meaning those who actually just want to play the game from a gameplay standpoint, if you don't have the original, why even prit one if it's not important? The Pac-Man overlay I have just highlights just one button, (I forget which, but..) yet the game tells you on the screen what button you need to prees anyway. Is there a place with jpeg scans of Atari 5200 overlays? I'm not going towaste ink and paper on something not important to gameplay, but for the ones that are, those would be highly appreciated. And a list of games where the keypad overlay is ludistically important. I think I have more Emerson Arcadia 2001 overlays than I do 5200 overlays. Arcadia is more likely to be sold complete than 5200, just because it's WAY less popular, and are less prone to loss and abuse by 5-year-olds. By the way, anyone one of the millipercent of the video game consumer pool in the 1980s who actually bought an Emerson Arcadia 2001 on day 1 and (though I doubt it, becuase I never heard of campouts for gaming consoles until 9/9/99 (the only launch date referred to by date by most video game fans when asked to refer to an important date in video game launch history) ) maybe even camped out in line for one? if someone here did, Atari Age is probably best place to find them. Coleco's policy was not to include them unless people in test groups would complain without the overlays (Blackjack/Poker, Mouse Trap, Super Action Baseball, Football (American), and Football (Soccer).) But they always had overlays for Super Action-enhanced games like Star Trek and Spy Hunter, and -required games, like Front Line. I guess there were too many buttons to keep straight. Mattel included them in even the most unnecessary of games, but consoles weren't licensed until the NES days so third parties did what made most sense with them. What was Atari's Policy?
  18. 1) I don't think Columns 3 uses a 6-button controller. I think it is 3 button. But I got the instructions, I'll check 2) Is "Hyperdunk" the Japanese name for "Double Dribble: The Playoff Edition", or is that a differrent game? If it's the same game, THAT doesn't use a 6 button if I remember right. 3) Bomberman is a 4 payer game and I believe doesn't use a 6-button. By the way, when I say "use the 6 button", I mean is the game somehow handicapped if you use a 3-button controller, like Street Fighter. I know 99 percent of the games can use either a 3- or 6- and quite a few of those just use the 3 buttons so it doesn't really matter, and the ones optimized for 6-button has a compromise 3-button control scheme. I think no game REQUIRES a 6-button ABSOLUTELY, but quite a few games are easier or more intuitive with a 6-button. My question is mainly I have one extra Genesis pad, and I'm seeing if any game requires 3 or more 3-button pads (I think Sega CD Wheel of Fortune is one of them), that won't function with a 6-, and what 5+ player games require a fifth or more 6-buttons pad to not be handicapped. I'm trying to decide whether to sell a 3- or 6- button pad on ebay. I assume you mean the only 5+ player game that would be "Fully Functional" with as many 6-button pads as players is International Superstar Soccer Deluxe (I assume it's an American release because "soccer" is uniquely an American name for that sport. When the World League of American Football was popular in Germany they called "football" -> "Soker-Fussball" and American football "Amerikanische-Fussball" both pronounced foosball, hence why in Germany, Foozball is called "Tischfussball"- or Table Football, so it's either an American or German (either during or after WLAF) release with the name Soccer. Everywhere else it's called Football. Even Coleco release Super Action Football in both Europe and the US. US got American, and Europe got Soccer, and never did they meet unless you import/export.) So the only reason why I'd want a fifth 6-button controller of beyond is ISSD above? Is that a US release? Is that a rare or common game? Is the game a game worth playing if you have 8 soccer-football fans who were kids to teens during the Genesis era? On the flip side, does any game require more than 3 3-button controllers and won't work with a 6-button? Or requires multiple players holding down MODE for it to work? You said there is no 5+ player games that require mulitple 3-button controllers or everyone holding down mode. What about 4 player games? And Dragonstomper, knowing EA Games for the Genesis, all required the 4-Way Play, or the 4-Way Play-compatible Team Player 2 in Extra mode. And 4-Way play has a maximum of 4 players. In other words, If you have 4 6-button controllers, that's all you really need to avoid multiple players being handicapped. I have 5 or 6 pads and one Ascii 6 button fight stick.
  19. Seeing a and not a makes me think this is not very practical in gameplay. But if it really is practical, there's YouTube, and there's Twitch Film yourself playing a game with a Larry the Cable Guy Redneck Joystick centerer. Then film yourself making the joystick attachment, and you can get lots of Youtube hits and make commercial money. But even if it is, you don't want to be fighting centering resistance in Kaboom. Tires you out too much. If you don't believe me, try plying Warlords (either Arcade or 2600) on the Xbox One version of Atari Flashback Collection* with "absolute paddle setting", the only way you can "dial-a-position" If the thumbpad didn't have the auto center and the game wasn't high ping in local mode, it might actually be playable. Otherwise you'll have to make a performance compromise somewhere by either using relative controls or fighting centering resistance. Literally the only way I'l play it is online, because that's the only way to play online possible. So, because of games where analog position is important, this isn't a "Swiss Army Knife" solution. You have to unplug it for Kaboom and Super Breakout. *= (s, I forget which volume has Warlords. They should have organized it in either categories, putting like games together, like all paddle games, or organized by year, older on one disc, newer on another, or pure alphabetical, or just offered it as one download-only collection where you can buy games individually or save by paying for the whole 80-100 pack at once. Maybe worth it becuase it's online... if I can find someone who IS online with my particular game. Unfortunately, unlike Sega Genesis collection, you can't accept an invitation for any of my online games passively while playing one game, waiting.)
  20. My other: There is no "Swiss army knife" solution. Best-electronics-ca.com only does Gold Dot solutions if you provide working either 5200 controllers, or maybe scratched up button pads with the analog potentiometers working and the orginal cases in good shape. That's the conditon of my 5200 controllers, scratched up buttons. If those don't matter if they need replacing, or they CAN replace, I'm good. Those are good for analog games. The Competition Pro might be best for one button games, assuming you're a right-stick player and not a left-stick player, because button 2 is out of reach. If someone made a button swapping dongle, then the Competition Pro for left-stick people would be good on either 1-button games or games where the second button is an auxiliary feature. There's 2 classes of games I'd use the Masterplay Clone on. One is games like Defender where, (I assume, since I haven't played it with my controls broke) you need a third button for hyperspace, which is the keypad, but I'm working on getting to get my custom omni-system stick to accept keypad presses for action buttons on my 8-button ambidextrous fight stick. Also qualified are games where you have to use 2 buttons frequently and is good as a digital game. The other class are certain 4 way games like Popeye and Mountain King, which, even though they are digitial, have runtime errors that were not caught in the developement. I believe that's because there's a weird programming trick where if the joystick is actuate 80% in one direction or more, it can't actuate beyond 60% in a perpendicular direction, due to the circular restrictor on the analog stick. This part is important, because I had an Apple IIe, and those joysticks were analog and had a square restrictor, where if an axis's maximum is 100%, then because x^2+y^2=r^2 X can equal 100%, and y can equal 100%, using that formula r^2=200%, which when you square root, r=141%, greater than the radius of a circular restrictor. The Competiiton Pro are activated in a binary way, either x=100% or -100% or y=100% or -100% and has a ground state of whatever the attached 5200 was set at. but activating a diagonal made both x and y have absolute values of 100%. Some people made games that were intended to be 4-way by setting the center dead zone so big that only obvious cardninals would be recognized and diagonals would be dead. And codes correctly assumed if X is activated, the it was physically impossible for y it be activated and vice versa. But the Competition Pro threw out that assumption, and that came after Popeye (and maybe Mountain King). So the lazy code which may have saved a few bits made it so the game has glitches when x and y are both beyond their activation threshold. If it's (I'm probably sure the 5200 wasn't using a human-readable "laundry list" language, but let's assume it is for human purposes and for the purposes of this discussion) intended to say in human terms "if pressed right in a 4-way sense" you'd have code like "If X>80%...." takes up a lot less bits than "If X>80% AND ABS(Y)<60%..." and because they assumed they were using default 5200 controllers, the "and ABS(Y)<60% is assumed and unnecesary. There's 3 solutions I can see to playing those games, one is making a complex circuit which limits diagonal actuations to 70% of cardinals, but keeps cardinals at 100%. Another is in the vein of a Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directon Scrubbers, make Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubbers, where If you're at +100% as x, it will asuume the same input until EITHER X AND Y is centered, OR ALL 3 OF x ceases to be in the original direction AND x goes in the opposite direction AND Y isn't actuated, OR BOTH X is centered AND Y is actuated either way. But the easiest of the 3 solutions is already built into my fight stick, a square/diamond selectable restrictor. Just unscrew, twist and rescrew. In diamond mode (still techincally a square, it's just a matter of orientation relative to the actuation axes) the mode is ABS(X)+ABS(Y)<=100%, a linear function, so a perfect diagonal would not register as anything if the physical joystick mechanics 75% movement in one direction. it would physically restrict the case where an X and Y are simultaneously actuated. Now just to find a Masterplay Clone. Maybe someone can combine an external selectable Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber AND a button swapper switch, and make it compatible with those 4 or less games 4-way games that have errors in diagonals not physically presented in default 5200 controllers. And with 2 switches on the controller one for stick right/left and one for scrubbers on/off, you never have to unplug it except for an analog game. The button swapper makes it sell to those who want it left handed. Might as well tackle 2 markets with one item. By the way I got lucky, I found a 5200 that didn't have the extra switchbox, a Competiiton Pro, a default 5200 controller, and a few games for $15. I tested the 5200 with the default switchbox I had at home, and sold it without the switchbox for more than $15 and got basically a free Competition Pro. I believe it was in the 1997 when I found it at an Akron OH (Cuyahoga Falls technically, but most people have heard of Akron thanks to Lebron James and the Rubber Tire industry.) thrift store called Abbey Ann's, which ironically had 2 locations under the same franchise attached to the same parking lot in a 3 store plaza, owned by 2 different owners, but both had the rights to the Abbey Ann's name. Prices were so cheap, they were competing against themselves. That plaza is torn down and they combined and moved into the newer plaza that got renovated. I only had a 5200 for a couple months in 1997, but the buttons were so mushy, that I new this would be valuable, both as a collector's item AND as a score enhancer. Also more games were just plain better with this than with a 5200 controller. When I heard the clicks on the joystick, I knew what I got.
  21. Best of all, you're physically close enough to Cleveland where I can drop it off, pick it up, and save on shipping, or if I ship it, it'd be cheaper.
  22. How good is the ping on it? Will it throw off a light gun (even though Colecovision has no light gun games)? Is it under 1 ms? Besides isn't easier to take straight Y/Cb/Cr as opposed to convert it to RGB? There's no color space translation chip. Just hook Y to green, Cb to Blue and Cr to red. Is there something more to it. I notice a multi-pin DIN connector. Can that do Composite and S-Video too? I notice 10 pins. Is one pin the Composite, one the Luma, one the C, one the Cb, one the Cr, one the R one the G and one the B with 2 pins left to connect? Maybe the Y is Y/C is slightly different that the Y in Y/Cb/Cr (voltage or some other difference?) Then the 10th pin would be the ground or some other "system function". So does that mod let you do RGB, Y/Cb/Cr, Y/C and composite and you just add a physical connector to it? Will it finally cure my RF B/W problems? How much is the cost of the parts and labor of the mod install compared to the cost of buying a "new-used" Colecovision, which may come down with a similar problem later? If so, and the price is right, give me a month to collect the money and sign me up!!!!
  23. What about Super Action 4 button support? And Jag Pro Controller Support? And rotary controller support for Super Action Controller trackwheel? Finally, an excuse to mod a Jag pro to use all the buttons for Super Action Baseball and Football (both American and Soccer) Also both use 12 buttons, 4 directions and one ground. The jaguar has 5 independent buttons, and 5 buttons that are remaps of keypad keys (pro controller) The CV has 4 independent buttons and 2 directions on the wheel. If you don't need the wheel, make the option key a program key. A couple games don't work as Super Aciton games, and 2 don't work as standard games. Maybe there'd be menu option like 1=SA/Std 2= button reassisgn 3= keypad reassign (For Mouse trap, where you can use the buttons as keypad presses) 4= Joystick reassign 5= Rapid rwassign 6= roller on/off 7=SOCD Scrubber on/off 0=reset on 2 you type L then R in Std mode or I,M,R,P (representing your 4 fingers) in SA mode in that order. on 3, you type a eypad button and assign it to 1,3,4,5,6 for L,R,Z,Y,X on the Jag pro controller or C,B,A on gams that don't use and they swap positions for Mouse Trap, . on 4 you can select W and E to be any 2 buttons for the Activiison Decathlon, or assign up to be a button on Smurf. Or you can flip a joystick 180 degrees for right-handed play. on 5 first press button to select button to edit rapid fire, then press a rate with a keypad button where 1 alternates every "joystick frame", 2 alternates every 2 frames, etc. Start toggles always rapid on or off/ always held when held / rapid when held There would be an RCA barrel cable either attached to the RF cable or the Composite/Component Y for the on screen display to interrupt or overlay on the game during program mode. Also would be used to confirm no rapid fire or SOCD Scrubber legal combination for tournament/world record play, or you can make option 7 SOCD scrubber on/off That way the guy who wants SOCD unscrubbed, and I can have it for Activision Decathlon. Finally, is power only needed for rapid fire, or is power needed in the the adapter intrinsically. You forgot to include the suggestion I'd use for power: Rechargeable AA or AAA NiHM batteries (also compatible with Alkalines) That way if the batteries lose charge, just buy more rechargeable AA/AAA, not have a worthless brick unless you know how to replace the internal battery, AND find the part for it. I don't think AA/AAA will go out of style. Things meant to last many years use AA/AAA. Don't mess it up with a soldering job or an irreplaceable battery.
  24. I don't have an RGB CRT TV. Instead I have a Y/Cb/Cr/L/R TV An RGB would be worthless. Does anyone have the ability to turn a Colecovision from RF into Y/Cb/Cr/L/R (or Y/Cb/Cr/A if in mono). I'm not handy with a soldering gun. Hopefully for the cost of a "new-used" Colecovision, I can send in a Black-and-white outputting CV (By the way, an earlier Odyssey 2 and Bally Astrocade had similar issues, Wish I had them modded instead of sold as B/W), and have it modded for Y/Cb/Cr/Mono or L/R. I heard it's easier to take existing Y/Cb/CR the Colecovision, Astrocade, and possibly other machines "think" in terms of, and just straight channel, than combining the Cb and Cr to C for S-Video or all 3 for Composite. By the way, to use in places with no component, would it be be just as low ping to buy a Component-to-Composite converter without touching the resolution. And what's cheaper, adding Composite and/or S Video to the mod, or buying a Component to S-Video and/or Composite adapter, assuming ping isn't an issue? Finally, I don't have much electrical talent. Anyone want to possibly take my B/W CV and any possibly other old school RF consoles if/when they lose color, and permanently fix the B/W issue, which most people say should solve it for good. if so how much? It might take a month or two to save the money for it.
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