tripletopper

I noticed 2 mistakes in the Colecovision List. The Activision Decathlon and QBert's Qubes don't work well with the super action controller. On the Activision Decathlon, the action button is either always held or is rapid pressing, I can't tell which, but in jumping and throwing events, the joystick always has you jumping and throwing at the earliest possible time, and at either the minimum or maximum angle, with no way to alter it. Regular Programs don't have that problem. And in QBert's Qubes, if you don't release the level select button at the instant the intro screen is shown, the screen glitches out with the Super Action Controllers. Regular controllers don';t have that problem. With these two finding I always notice happens, I suggest people try it, report, and do one of 2 things. If enough of you find that on your real Colecovisions and real Super Action Controllers, if these glitches happen consistently, (I've had multiple Colecovisions, and they all had those problems with those 2 games.), then whoever made the list should delist these 2 games as Super Action Compatible. If too many don't find these problems, maybe someone can diagnose what's wrong with the Colecovision. Also does anyone else know of any other regular controller games that don't work with Super Action Controllers?

Sorry to bump, BUUUT, a PS360 is a fight stick board that has lots of systems it can hook up to, most of them using a PS2/PS1 as the base that other converters can plug into on websites like Goldenshop.com and Goldenshop.com.hk which are the same company. But they have no adapters for Intelllivision, Colecovision, Astrocade, 5200, 7800, Vectrex and Jaguar, even though they DO have ones for TurboGrafx 16 and the 3DO (even though the one they're offering has no daisy chaining ability). Why those systems and not the ones I mentioned? I don't know. And if you have a Genesis controller, it will plug in where ONE of the buttons is an Atari 2600 Joystick, and those places sell PS->Genesis adapters, but I heard rumors that the PS360 uses an 8 pin ethernet cable and loses something when translated to the 9-pin connector on the Genesis. But it might work for the Atari, even if it doesn't work for Genesis. The only other system besides rthe 2600 and Genesis it works with is the Master System. it does NOT work with the 7800.

GoldenShop.com.hk and goldenshop.com has lots of Playstation to (fill in the blank) adapters. Maybe a Playstation to Intellivision adapter would be good. It needs an "original/Flashback" switch, because Flashback is reversed and I got my Intellivision 1 "Flashback controller modded". I just ordered and did it myself. This was in hopes of attaching a fight stick to the Intellivision. I think only two games, Vectron and the second version of Auto Racing, is rendered totally unplayable by the 8 way controller. Some games may be altered a little, like fine dodging would be trickier, but most games would be HELPED with an 8-way switchable to a 4 way controller. While we're at it a Playstation to Colecovision adapter, a PS-> 5200, a PS->7800, a PS-> Jaguar, and a PS-> Astrocade just for fight sticks, (no games that use paddles). IF you can save significant money off hiring someone to pad hack each respective controller. Some may want PS-> Vectrex, PS-> Channel F, and PS-> CD-i and I would say PS-> Odyssey 2 and PS-> Arcadia, except most of the first, and all of the second, don't have detachable controllers, so until a) someone cares enough, which we may find of Odyssey 2, but is extremely hard to find for an Arcadia, (I own an Arcadia. Found it plus 7 cartridges for $35.00 guaranteed working from a used media store, I got 14 of the 21 games ever made, and of those 14, there are like 0 I'd go to voluntarily, and would only go to if someone challenges me on a back-to-back twitch streams) and b) someone is able to make such an adapter would make an adapter that convert hard wired sticks to DB9s or something like that, and then from there go into a PS controller. As for PS->CV, most games can run on either regular or Super Action controllers, but some games only work on SA. Other games, like The Activision Decathlon and Q*Bert's Qubes REQUIRE a Standard CV joystick. they don't run right on Super Action controllers. Finally there needs to be a DB9 (or for the 5200) DB15 adapter for using simultaneous keypad action. Also, it could work with both digital and analog controls since the PS Dual Shock 1 and PS2 dual Shock 2 has both analog and digital directions, the 5200 can even have twin analog/twin digital for Robotron and Space Dungeon outputting to 2 separate 5200 ports.

..oops let me finish ... where he could see the old blending with the new well to spread out the old experience as well as a new one. My product, the specifics of which is impolite to hawk so close to the death of a guy who approved of it, would have opened Intellivision to new people, which was Keith's vision for Intellivision. In the same way Frank Sinatra and his music he sung was cool in the 90s until his death, Keith made Intellivision cool, and preserved the Legacy of Intellivision and opened it to new audiences. Not as massively as he would have liked, but enough to make enough of a living where whatever money he made was a bonus to doing a job he loved to do and loved to share, and would do for free anyway. The way I tried to sell Keith on my invention was the fact that more people would pay attention to old games if they were online because most original fans have no local opponents at their skill level. The way was to recruit network opposition. I told him if he funded it, his company would not only get a big portion of profits from Intellivision games being turned online, but with other systems like Atari, Sega, Nintendo, Coleco, SNK, NEC could be turned online with this technology. All the other companies except one said it would be nice if it were real, but no one else wanted to be the guinea pig. Sega banned me off their official website chat pages because they said "we don't do crazy". Not only did Keith say it would be nice if it were true, he did the calculations and said that my way, if it lived up to what was promised, is cheaper to make EVERY game online, than making ONE of his own games online with a traditional networking method. In other words, he took my idea seriously and saw the joys it could bring and how it could be spread to other retro systems. I hope Steve Roni, whom Keith consulted with to see the feasibility of my idea, or whoever will be in charge of the Intellivision properties after Keith's death, will keep the Intellivision name alive, and I'd like to talk to the company's heir(s) once a week has gone by to mourn, and see if my invention can fit in their plans. I hope I described my invention enough to show what kind of person Keith was and how him liking this idea showed something about him more than it sounds like a shill for my idea. But in order to accurately tell the story, I had to describe my relationship. I didn't specify the name or website of my project, though it is researchable if you look up my user id, out of respect for Keith. If it sounds like a shill, I'm sorry, but that's the way I primarily knew Keith personally. I wasn't an Intellivision fan until I found a real good deal at a Garage Sale i the 90s, a console and quite a few games for $5. It's easy to promote Intellivision when you biggest competitor is the Atari 2600. It takes a special kind of person to promote the Intellivision, 3 or more generations later. Keith was that special person.

I honestly didn't know of Keith Robinson personally, until I made a pitch for a device which turns retrogames online. Keith Robinson was the most enthused of the retro game rights holders with my idea. Oh by the way, I purchase a INTV 1 Flashback Controller Mod Kit and simple instrucitons to add external controllers in the INTV 1, and 3 Flashback controllers, 2 for the original machine,(because you can't use original INTV controllers with the Flashback Mods), and 1 for a pad hack so I can plug an arcade stick in the Intellivision for games that would benefit from it, and then go back to the original controller for games that would benefit from that. I never had a Intellivision as a kid. My brother and I chose Colecovision at the time, but I found Intellivision games and a console or 2 when garage "sale-ing" and thrift shopping in the 90s, and I enjoyed them. I even found rare INTV Corp Intellivision Games like Pole Position, Pac-Man, some post-crash sports games, and a few others, 12 in all, all white label games, for $1 apiece at the Goodwill Outlet Store (If Goodwill wasn't cheap enough, this drops it another level). In the short time I knew him, he was enthusiastic about the Intellivision brand, hardware, and software. He was one of the first one to think of video game preservation. He was kind, and friendly. And he appreciated new technology enough where

Here's a "non-game" cartridge that, if you dig deep, is an actual game. But it requires 2 people to be a game, single player I believe is trivial. Bingo Math. I believe it can be a legal game of Skill, a legal game for money to be run by an establishment for profit in Ohio and other jurisdictions for money, but ONLY if the Bingo Board is either identical, or possibly horizontally, vertically, or diagonally mirrored, The game works like this. All answers are a digit 0-9, and your bingo board is filled with single digits of 0-9. Solve a problem: "24+13=3?" the correct answer is 7 because 24+13=37 and all answers are a digit between 0-9.. Find a 7 on the board and claim it before your opponent. If you claim it first, you mark it on your board and lock out your opponent, but don't be overzealous, a wrong answer gives your opponent a free square anywhere. First one with a row of 5 wins. Questions can be as easy as 1+2 = ? or could be harder, but you're both working on the same question, so it's a game of skill. In easier levels it makes more sense to claim the first square you see with that answer, but on more complex problems, you might want to scan the whole board and look for the "best" square. Also I had a lot typed before, but I wasn't logged in so it was lost. Remember, Log in BEFORE you go on a text tirade.

A question, are you intentionally leaving system, controller and miscellaneous accessory instruction books, or are you loking to add them. I need a couple and thought I could contribute by scanning a couple of the Sega and other console, controller, and accessory booklets. They are in legible condition, but some have some folds for being stored in awkward places, but no markings. The ones I have for Sega systems are : Genesis console instruciton manual (model 1, post extention prot removal), Sega CD System Manual, (front loading model 1), 32X system instrrction book (from a Day 1 32X, where they talk about the CDX spacer as an option), Sega 6 button controller, Video Monitor Cable, Menacer controller instructions (NOT THE 6-PACK OF GAMES), Team Player 2 (EA 4 Way Play-compatible), CD Back Up Ram Cart, Saturn System, 3D Control Pad, Keyboard Adapter, Netlink, Netlink Internet Quick Start Guide, 6PLayer Multi-PLayer, Game Gear rechargable Battery Pack,, Dreamcast system, Mad Catz Dream Blaster (the Sega authorized gun for the US market) , Mad Catz Dream Accessories Catalog, Interact DC Alloy Arcade Stick, Sega Visual Memory Unit, DCX Game Adapter, Nyko DC Commander (good for a fightpad, but not authorized), Sega DC Microphone, Performance DC tremor Pak, Sega 4x memory card. The ones I need, and can hopefully find a scan later for are: SS Virtua Stick, SS Stunner, SS Mission Stick, SS Memory Card, DC Maracas, DC Keryboard, the authorized DC rumble pack (I know that's a Nintendo name), Sega Master System, (preferably form the one with Snail Maze built in) , SMS Arcade Stick, SMS Sports Pad, SMS Light Phaser, SMS 3D Glasses I also got some game and system/accessory manuals from Atari 2600, Bally Astrocade, Odyssey 2, Intellivision, Colecovision, Arcadia 2001, Starpath Supercharger, Atari 5200, NES, Atari 7800, SNES, Turbo Grafx 16, 3DO, N64, PS1, PS2, Xbox, Game Cube, Xbox 360, PS3, Wii, Wii U, Xbox One. Tell me what you have and I'll see what holes I can fill. I don't have enough time to scan and send them all to you via email. Also even though i know you intend well, if you get a lot of items coming in, you might forget whose is what's and either I get instruction I didn't need or (worse) i don't get certain ones back. If you have all Sega based accessories, you scan them. If you don't have a particular one or few, I'll scan it and send it via email. I casn scan back to back pages like 1+back, 2+3, 4+5 etc. It also keeps the scans in a legible order.

You're both right. Sega's history is not distinctly American or Japanese but had those two elements blended from the beginning. Sega, which is short for SErvice GAmes, (I don't know if there is a Japanese word pronounced Sega other than the company name) It was founded by Americans who made the games in Japan to be put on US Armed Forces bases that were physically located in Japan. They got their start making mechanical games, and ventured into the video game business in the 70's and 80's. In the 80's they were bought by Gulf + Western, the same conglomerate company that owned Paramount Pictures, hence why Sega had the rights to the official Star Trek strategic simulator game, (even though it was more of an action game). After the crash, since their factories were in Japan, but had American owners, Sega had a culture shift in the year they sold it to Japanese interests, but the original company owners had stock in the the company, so they were still a mix of US and Japanese, but the New Japanese and American owners became 2 partially competing, partially cooperating companies. That's why they never had a consistent worldwide hit. Master System's territory was Brazil and Europe, Genesis was US and Europe, (with the Master System still the number 1 system in Brazil), Saturn in Japan, and Dreamcast in the US. But that's true, it's probably resentment of their former American bosses and they made the Genesis a success, and the 32X and Saturn went in 2 opposite directions, so there have been some resentment, and Sega was the most American system maker since Atari and before Microsoft.

As for mapping that jalopy, I was thinking of using 2 "predetermined" street fighter arrangements, which is close enough for most games, and then for things like Pac Land, Track N Field, and other specialty games, I'd hand program it, and by program I mean, because I'm poor and believe a button programmer would ruin ping time, manually rewiring with RCA cables or some similar easy to connect connector, and color coding the cables and holes. But I learned my lesson about multiple systems. The system switch should be independent of the button toggle, so if I want the same arrangement for a new system, I just swap systems, but keep the buttons the same. I know it's a little work, but it's more of a contingency plan than an actual plan. It's basically I trade time and convenience for some cost savings. I get a more versatile joystick and in return I got more labor.

My point was that I beat an eventual champion using a right handed stick. And so did 3 of my friends. I know the test isn't scientific, but I was beating everyone in my group with the right handed joystick, and everyone else using the right handed stick beat the eventual champ. And he was thrashing everyone in our group joypad vs joypad. The secret in Street Fighter 2 New challengers is that over 50% of the game is dictated by how well you can pull off a dragon punch and fireball motion, which is easier, quicker, more accurate, and less predictable to an opponent in the right hand than the left (at least for me). Add that to the fact is that in SFIINC most of the time all you need is one button at a time to pull off most specials and you can see why that game makes sense for right stick. (I think Zangief and Dahlsim are the only exceptions. But it's easy to press 3 buttons at once.) Later they designed the game with more button gymnastics, like Killer Instinct and larger, engineered combos in other games. I don't know if it will hold up today, but if your strategy is to 90%+ execute specials, right handed is the way to go. If your strategy is button combos, left handed is the way to go. It depends on which one you have to make sure you get right, and in New Challengers, it was, for me and my friends, direction. Different games and different characters within games (both who you are and who you're facing) have different strategies. If you're trying to master one game and do it real well, get the one best for your craft, the later the game is, the more likely it's left handed. But if you're going to be a Jack of All Games, meaning, like Jamal, being able to beat 90% of people in 90% of games, only losing to those who dedicate endless hours at one game every day, then an ambidextrous joystick might be for you. I don't know if one is scientifically better for all people for all games for all time. I just know what's scientifically better for me and my friends at the time SF2NC was big. And if that moves me up from bottom half to top third in almost every game I own, it'd be worth it. But remember, your mileage may vary.

I can't believe what a vigorous argument we are having. The reason why most fighting games are left stick is because a) it takes a lot of real estate on a cabinet to have 2 sets of buttons, and since NES was the 90% standard in the US and Japan, and NEC, Genesis, and SNES followed, and there was a mass market appeal thing, the joystick was on the left. And the reason why Nintnedo put it on the left was because Donkey Kong was supposed to use Radarscope cabinets which is a 1 dimensional shooter, so It was on the left. That being said. You got 4 options if you're a right handed joystick player. 1) Learn lefty, 2) Quit games, 3) either make for yourself, or hire someone to make, a right handed josytick, or 4) Tell Madcatz you'll put down a 50% reserve on a right handed joystick. If enough people do 4, they'll make it ambidextrous or separate left/right versions. But remember if you make separate left/right verison, you'll have to anticipate what percentage of the people will prefer left or right. And remember if you're going to make an ambidextrous stick, it can either be a bare basic horizontal button arrangement, or as you'll see I found an arrangement that would work good ambidextrous. As to whether the left or right side stick is better, I've got some anecdotal evidence saying the right side is better for me in most games. With the coming of the Genesis version of Street Fighter II The New challengers, I bought a custom stick. It had a joystick and button set as separate boxes and can be placed on a velcro board to stabilize them. It was a cheap controller only $70 in the Genesis SNES days, and te buttons were from a standard right button arrangement, so it felt a little weird when I played button left. I played it with me and 4 of my friends. I carried my ambistick over. I was not only beating everyone, one person who got particukarky cheesed came in second and I told him the secret was the right handed stick. e didn't believe me, so I had my other 3 friends face him with the stick in both right- and left-handed forms. All 3 of them beat this doubting friend with a right handed joystick twice each. With a left stick 2 of them went 1-1 and the other won twice. What do I attribute that to. Well to do a dragon punch well enough so your opponent can't see it coming, you have to move quickly in a z and press 1 button. With a right handed stick every time I willed a Z move, I was able to pull it off. Not so with the joypad. I was concentrating on individual moves with a left pad so much that 2 tings happened. 1) opponents could see it coming, and 2) I couldn't concentrate on reacting to my opponent because I was trying to will a dragon punch except concentrating on the screen to see if I'm too late and making a reaction. Also my will to action ratio was well below 50%. I was misfiring dragon punches more often than hitting them. Bt with the right handed stick I never had a misfire except if I got hit before I finished throwing it. Now this is a fairly famous gamer that was the Doubting Thomas. He would usually be in the top 2 or 3 of literally every game we played in our group of 8-10 for every system, old or new at the time. He would win the local Blockbuster Genesis championship. And then he appeared twice on TV. He makes his living in competitions as multi- and varied- game tournaments. Winning 2 of them, Life to the Power of X on Spike TV, and 1 year of Iron Man of gaming, and in other years of IMOG,he was always in the top 10 and more than half the time in the top 5 on a contest where people traveled all over the country to come there where there were 100 some entrants. Some people who won big one year fell into the bottom half the next. He was the most consistent finisher, always in the run for the finals. He is Jamal Nickens, and his handle is Zophar 321 on various social websites. If you want to see his Life to the Power of X performance, visit http://www.jackofallgamestv.com/lifex.htm He also appeared on Season 1 of WCG Ultimate Gamer. He'll be a good house contestant for a the game show concept also promoted on this website on the main page. I talked with him recently, and we were talking, and the subject came up on last week's Twitch.tv/Zophar321 broadcast of M1 Abrams Battle Tank stream. I was trying to tell him that is one person can execute specials on will, and the other has a 50% special rate or less, he'd dominate New Challengers, because supers give you so much an advantage. (less so for newer fighters) Also combos were less emphasized, there were no engineered combos, just natural combos that occurred as part of the game engine. The were no Supers, and it was a simpler game. And at the time he was using a gamepad. If he can find a Joystick for the Genesis where he can execute 90+% of his specials, he'd probably beat me now. And when Street Fighter was said to be online for Dreamcast and later systems, he remembered how 4 of us beat him with a better weapon, so he wised up and got a joystick. More recently, he whooped me, but it was with a more modern version of a fighter. And as anecdotal evidence, his first 2 systems were Colecoviison and Vectrex. Colecovision he could have held either way and a Vectrex was left handed, so he learned that way. I had a Colecovision, so I had a choice. I was exposed to Atari 2600 so I understood that one. If it gave me a choice, I (unless a fire button wasn't working) chose the right side, especially on 1 or 2 button games. The NES pad was no problem for me. Instead of holding it with my hands and using 2 thumbs, I putt he controller on the floor and used my index and Middle fingers to make diagonals, and independently manipulate buttons. I was making some of the more complex jump/fire patterns compared to my brother and friends. But when I had an NES Advantage, it felt unnatural to use a left hand for the stick. I eventually got used to it, but later I bought a Beeshu Jazz right handed for NES and was usually using that or the pad. Also my opinion was tainted because at some electronics store, it was demoed with Super Mario Bros. the single worst game to show off rapid fire and slo mo. Kid NIki was a better game to show it off as a cheat. Later I learned that cheating in games only helps you beat story mode. It loses you friends as opponents. It was not until the SNES where I had to buy a joystick because I normally put the controller on the ground and Shoulder buttons were becoming more key. Also a piece of advice, If you;re going to spend $200-300 ona custom joystick for fighters, one) make it ambidextrous so you can play all those older games in whatever way feels more comfortable, which may change from game to game, and 2) spend an extra $50-150 to make it multi-console, because good joystick parts are good joystick parts regardless of the system, so why re-buy them for different consoles, when you can reuse them for multiple consoles. If I get an Xbox One joystick, it's debatable whether I want to play right- or left-handed because of Killer instinct Xbox One, where it might pay more dividends to be dextrous on the buttons compared to the stick in SF2NC with all these extra long combos and a lot of the game being determined by unpredictabilty and button dexterity, so they can't combobreak and you can lengthen the combo. If you use the same set of predetermined combos, your get combobroken. FInallly, here's an idea for an ambidextrous joystick. I shares it with Mad Catz, and they liked it enoug where their next "non-game-specific" controller for modern machines may be so if they find a good arrangement. I suggest instead of buttion 6-8 buttons on both sides, put 2 joysticks on either side of an 8 button arrangement. As for the arrangement of the buttons look at this picture: It shows my left hand on the buttons comfortably. Just to show this is not an ergonomically altered stick or doctored picture, here it is on right hand. Finally, here's a perfect design for an ambidetrous model. It has 2 sticks for 2 reasons. 1) is for Robotron type games. 2) is for Super Smash Bros. games, and 3 is becuase it takes up less real estate than 8 buttons on both sides: Lastly, if you have the Xbox one model where you can reprogram joystick directions and buttons as each other in the basic OS, this would be good

You should just keep any classic gaming systems around you want and get a CRT TV from a thrift store. There's one reason that even if you could hook up old systems, it's better to do it with a CRT TV, lag. Granted modern games have worse network lag than TV lag so it won't be noticed, and if most games can compensate for 50-100 ms lag, it can surely compensate for 16 ms screen lag, but old games are where you notice. Take a game you have to react to something because there's some randomness. Or take a game you have a pattern timed to the background music, (hence why older game music is more memorable than today's stuff.) If the timing feels right, you've got a low ping TV like a CRT TV. If you have to guess on a random game, or if you press at the right time according to music, but it comes up late, or if you have to shift everything a a beat earlier, that's a sign of high ping. Even the best HD TVs in minimal processing modes is 16 ms or one frame in a 60 FPS game. Most TVs are designed to make game look good, not play fast. I think I might have a Virtual Console tip on Wii/Wii U. Select 480 i, and go through on an S-Ideo, Composite or Component connection. Hook that up to a CRT TV. If it feels just like hooking an original NES to that screen, then this is a hidden way to play NES classics in Low Ping Mode. FInally, not sure if Ataris can be hooked up to 4K TV. A year or 2 ago a local-to-me low-powered analog TV station turned into a low-powered digital station. Maybe soon there is no way to use an antenna port to hook up a 2600, because all modern tuners use ATSC, or NTSC. Your RF TV must either be an analog, or analog/digital switchable tv. But the easiest way to turn an RF system into a composite system is to plug it into a VCR. It's light gun accurate. I've had problems with light guns pushed into a DVD recorder which does convert it to S-Video and or Component Video, but you should split it through a powered RF splitter and send one end straight into an Analog TV, if you want pixel-perfect light gun timing. Otherwise timing is thrown off not enough to notice it in most game play (< 1 ms), but enough to throw off a light gun(>55 ns at 480i resoluiton, limit is less with more pixels and fps). And for those who want to play a light gun game as old as the original Xbox and PS2 or older, a CRT TV, especially ones with S-Video and component are vital. CRT TVs draw pictures one pixel at a time, whereas Modern TVs have a steady stream of light on all pixels at once, which "pigments" block to create anything which isn't white, and change every frame. Most retailers can't get rid of them. So ask Best Buy to put you on a "buy a recycled CRT TV" list so they can make a little money instead of having to destroy it. Or check thrift stores. If you love retro games, there is no substitute for a CRT TV.

Will the 2600-dapter II work in Paddle, Driving controller, Keypad, and Trackball mode for Playstation 4 and Xbox One Atari Flashback Online? I don't like the standard analog thumbpad for Crystal Castles, Centipede, or Warlords and Video Olympics when I played them with a PC USB thumbpad. (Or do they use the Sears name of "Pong Sports" because the word "Olympics" is copyrighted by the International Olympic Committee?)

I Don't know, i've seen devices released for 5 or less games, ROB, Vaus Controller, Maracas, that Xbox controller for the uber Mech game, Bongos, Active Life Pad, Dance Dance Revolution Mats, The Xbox Light Gun, Pump It Up pads, Kid Vid, Intellivoice. All you need is an authorized adapter that accepts two 2600 9-pin connector inputs outputted through USB. I know some console shooters work with a standard USB keypad and mouse, so why not connect real 2600 controllers. It might work even as a generic USB device, (not sure) I got 2 pairs of paddles, 2 Driving controls, 2 Trackballs, 2 Star Radiers touch pads, one XE light gun, and an itch to use them in head-to-head competition. Crystal castles will play horribly with the analog stick. and Warlords is a pain to control with the analog sticks, especially the arcade and 2600 versiosn and not the new Xbox verison which was made for the analog pad. By the way, any takers on head-to-head Atari friending for online gameplay? Either contact me privately on Xbox Live, or post your name for all to see here. Info is located above.

Will there either be, a) An Xbox and Playstation version of Joysticks, Paddles, Trackballs, Steering controllers, and keypad, (Modern TVs wont allow light guns for the single light gun game on the ilist, unless there is a USB-to-RF out adapter) or b) an authorized adapter that lets you plug in said original Atari controllers? Also, wondering if Red Baron is the "unlicensed version of Star Wars" insofar as this uses a flight yolk and both vector 3D games, and if so, will there be a flight yolk for modern machines? Also I'll Start a public "opponents on call list" for Atari Flashback online head-to-head games I'm Brian Ciesicki, Xbox Live name "TripleTopper321". I Will accept on-call challenges if I'm by my Xbox between 9AM and Midnight New York time. Both copies already reserved. I'll pick it up November 1st.

The Coleco Stick in a 7800 during a 1 button game like Asteroids works perfectly fine. But play a 2 button game like Choplifter and it boots right aways to the main screen and neither the fire or turn button work. Hopefully this can give good information for someone making something that converts between 7800 and Colecovision. Got to try the Super Action controller.

I Don't know how to fix it, but if there was a way to do that in a "middle connector" to take a 7800 and convert it to colecovision standard, it would be part of my Ambidextrous Brick-Stick setup. (like a street fighter stick, except made for every system from 2600, Channel F, And Astrocade to One, PS4, and Wii U I've got ways to convert it to many systems. A simple 7800-> Coleco Standard converter would work, if you can do something in the connector to allow both buttons to fire simultaneously. I'd hate to permanently ruin a perfectly good 7800 Joypad. But the reverse isn't as nice. I think it only does a one button mode. I don't know what it does on a 2 button game. I should try that. Also regardless of whether you're left- or right handed, the Super Action controller is the best controller for regular games, except Activision Decathlon (if flaws by always jumping early with either minimum or maximum angle.) Q*Bert's Qubes (Holding the level select keypad button for one too many frames causes visual glitches on SA controllers), and maybe Turankham unless you can think Top Fire=left and Second Fire = right and both = bombs, But Tutankham has a different problem with brick sticks. In most other games where there's a main and and aux fire, main is on the index and aux is on the middle. But doing this for Tutankham (and Front Line) makes it so that it's right button to fire left and left button to fire right, (or middle finger button to rotate left and ring finger button to rotate right) if you've got no way to reverse the buttons. You must have reversible buttons for "stick-right" or else you'll have these button problems.

Both 7800 buttons work on the CV games, so your conversion should work as well. About 7800 Joypads and Sticks working with Colecovision. It only works as long as you don't need to press both buttons simultaneously. The ultimate test of that is Tutankham. If you can fire left and right, but not do the smart bomb, then you have a 7800 controller. If you CAN do the smart bomb by pressing both buttons, then you HAVE a Colecovision controller. So only use the 7800 if you don't need to press both buttons simultaneously. The funny thing is I Y-ed a 7800 gamepad and a Coleco standard controller, the Coleco controller works well including pressing both buttons for a bomb, and the keypad works for selecting, but the 7800 controller had that flaw of not pressing both buttons together, but otherwise the 7800 controller worked well.

You CAN use a 7800 Joypad/stick with the Colecovision, WITH ONE CAVEAT: You can't press both buttons at the same time. So Tutankham will not let you do Smart Bombs, Space Fury you can't shoot and thrust simultaneously. But if you don't need both buttons pressed at the same time, a 7800 controller is an acceptable substitution. Hooking Coleco controls to a 7800 doesn't do anything right with the fire. Also a Coleco Super Action Controller has both roller directions mapped to 2 separate buttons on a Genesis. If it's reversible, a Genesis controller maps to one CV button and the roller pad.

I don't think you can steer the shot, or at least not by moving the paddle. I move my ship with the paddle, and the bullet goes in straight lines. maybe left and right on the stick would move it. Never tried it.

Here's my Exitor's Revenge video, posting a score of 5625. I looked up Exitor's Revenge and Youtube thought I looked up Editor's Revenge.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I just have to print myself out some instruciton on how to do it. I've repaired Coleco Super Action Controllers and Astrocade Potentiometers, so why not?

What's easier, getting Arcade style sticks working with INTV 1s or getting Coleco Games working with INTV2's. I assume with an INTV 2, if someone knows the wiring, one can hook up the joystick to the 8 disc endpoints, the buttons to the 4 actions buttons and a touch tone phone to each individual button for 1-9, *, 0, #, and plug it directly into an INTV 2 port. I would need an old touch tone landline phone to be disassembled to wire to the joypad for games that use the joypad and stick and buttons. Or maybe I can insert another controller from an actual system so I can use that system's appropriate overlays. But the INTV 1 can play every INTV game, and I've got 4 Coleco INTV games. I would also prefer the mod to be a temporary mod, where it's as simple as inserting and removing an Intellivoice-like device as opposed to operating on the machine. What's easier to mod without affecting the historical value of an INTV, modifying an INTV 1 to play external controllers, or modifying an INTV 2 to accept Coleco and other third party games? I believe number 2 is simpler. You just need an "in-between" cartridge, like an Intellivoice, to add a title screen to games without title screens that collapse. And pressing any button advances to the first line of the game while circumventing the INTV 2 lockout. You just insert it for games trouble booting on a INTV 2, and remove it with ones that don't. You don't need to worry about Intellivoice conflicts because none of the games that don't boot use the Intellivoice. And any homebrew Intellivoice games can be programmed to circumvent the Coleco lockouts by programming around it. Sounds a lot less permanent that de-hard-wiring the INTV 1 control. Finally, if you want a good picture on real hardware, all games look clearer than ever using a Component CRT TV like a Sony Wega 4x3 SD CRT and to record a DVD-recorder with component outputs and an analog, (or analog/digital) tuner. The DVD introduces a little processing delay, so Y the RF cable using a Powered Splitter, either RF F-Type or RF RCA, and view the TV straight and record the DVD straight. or else you get a snowy picture. Look up youtube name jackofallgamestv and look up my 7800 Crossbow to see the old way, (before powering the splitter, but the light gun did work) and twice the new way, both composite and component capture as a comparison. But the Intellivoice has the ability to add Wireless controllers, but the standard was never made. And they interrupt the 2 in-bay controllers, so there might be a way to work that way too.

Coleco is not exactly the most comfortable controller either, especially for game where you have to manually rapid fire. The ambidextrous design sacrificed in firing rate by placing buttons at weird right angles. FIrst the Sanwa is just the stick and buttons, but is designed so each individual actuation can be wired to an individual joypad. The wires from the stick go to RCA females, then RCA Male-TO-RCA Males connect it to a standardizer which can let you arrange joystick directions and buttons in any order, so you can wire it one way for the nowadays normal left-handed way, or turn it 180 degrees swap the RCAM->RCAM to reverse the stick and rearrange the buttons, so it can play in an old school right-handed arrangement. Also the buttons can correspond to either consistent with Index, Middle, Ring, etc. like a fighting game, or consistent with left center and right, making it for games with fire left and fire right is more important. It can even work with 2600 Track N Field, where 2 buttons equal left and right, and Pac-Land on Xbox 360 with run buttons. Form the standardizer island, it dgoes into a PCB of an original stick, with the standardized wires actuating the points. This is so I can make this for any system, Past, Present, or Future. All I have to provide is an original PCB of the stick. I would like to use the original 16 way pad for games that use it well, but for Burgertime, the 4 way (or 8 if you're allowed to round the corner, meaning it's not like the arcade emulated version of Mr. Do's Castle) would be perfect. As for fighting sticks, (according to my personal preferences) they are best in games where you need to actuate a cardinal or diagonal specifically like inputting a Dragon Punch, they tend to make good action sticks. By the way, it has a 4/8 way switchable game. A longer stick gives more mechanical advantage which less you lose less force over a longer distance, and longer distances make it more precise to choose between a cardinal and a diagonal. As for left vs right hand, both hands can press buttons equally well, like when typing on a keyboard, but moving your shoulder and wrist more quickly requires a stronger arm, therefore should be your dominant arm, which for most people the right hand. I believe Nintendo make their joysticks left handed to make the arcade operators more money by making it uncomfortable therefore they could jack their prices up, because the appeal of Donkey Kong is the uniqueness of a platformer at the time, not so much the control perfection. I've seen many people cross arms back in the day, LOOOOONG before Street Fighter, but less so in other right-handed games. Some games were even generous enough to put buttons on BOTH SIDES. Like Intellivision, 5200, Colecovision, Astrocade, and Arcadia 2001. Here's a picture showing my setup on my attachments. Notice flipping it 180 degrees makes a good left-handed stick.

The main reason I want to do this is because, I never really grew up with an Intellivision. My 8 year old self handled the controllers and thought they stunk. I had a ColecoVision back then. I'd like to replace it with an 8-way arcade stick. I understand it won't work for games where all 16 directions are important. I'm just seeing if the way to play Intellivioisn games would be easier by modding an INTV 2 to play Coleco Games, or by modding an INTV 1 to add a DB9 (for 8-way games) or USB joystick (for 16-way games). The reason why I say this is becuase I'd like by ambidextrous Sanwa-parts Fighting Joystick to work on it.