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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. Wrong word lenghtened. It was in clue 3. Also I said the first hint was for the system. Ass has something to do with the system, not the game. And the connection to Hulk is not "Smash" Think: The Amazing Spider-Man, The Invincible Iron Man, The Uncanny X-Men, The ________ Hulk Then connect it to a lengthened word from clue 3. Though I like your attempt.
  2. Right so far, but you don't see the connection. About 1 - Look what's different about the quote (give a hint of system, remember I said it was a system comparable to the 2600, and another version was made for the 2600, but I'm looking for this version, the non-2600 version) About 2-Go for the obvious one that even plenty of non-comic fans would know (First word of title other than "the") about 3 - hint to second word, lengthen a word.
  3. OOps it's Q--z --z not Q---z --z
  4. 1. I will either kick it or i'll kiss it, and I don't care if Vince writes that as a stipulation. I'm that sure I'll win. 2 Superhero with skin color like Chalky Studabaker. 3. Rhyme time: Q---z --z consonants and vowels remain. (not a 2600 game, but a comparable system, a "version" was made for the 2600)
  5. They separated the hard drive and the Final Fantasy game that used it, overpriced the game, and wAy underpriced the hard drive,thinking you can't use it without the game. PLus doesn't the Slim PS2 have a hard drive built in, or does someone have a copy of FF-something and is unable to play it due to not having a hard drive?
  6. Another time I found a boxed Astrocade with 3 rare games, a typewriter-written label of Artillery duel, Muncher, and Blast Droids, plus about 6 other games, all for $5 + tax. And the Astrocade worked, and all the games worked too. I sold the Astrocade since I had one, and kept and cartridges that wasn't a double.
  7. I got a PS2 Hard Drive for a penny including tax at Gamestop in 2006. No more buying extra memory cards.
  8. I've got 4 Y (or Wye) adapters. They have the standard 9 pin arrangement, and have the 2 branches are all pins and one end is all holes. If I remember right form owning Colecovision in my youth, there were Colecovision adapters which let you plug in an Atari 2600 controller for the joystick and one button and a Colecovision joystick for the keypad. This let you use any 2600 bat stick (which was better than the short, flat 'shroom top of a standard Coleco stick) with any one button games for Colecovision. (The only reason I never got one was because I have a solution which worked for every game I had and still have EXCEPT QBert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, that is the Super Action Controller.) Over the years, I went thrift shopping and found on separate occasions, a Gemini, a Gemini Instruction Book, and 4 different Y adapters of 9 pin arrangements. I read through the Gemini Instruction manual, and found out about the Wye Adapter (this was before I was looking for Y adapters) and that got me thinking, how do I tell the difference in the wild between the 2? Some one told me of pin testing, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do it. I've got a couple of theories,but I want to make sure none of them ruin my controllers systems or adapters, because the ow of best-electronics-ca.com the repairers of Atari equipment, says be care not to do anything that will short out my equipment due to the 5 Volt connection. If I can plug 2 joysticks in in either a 2600 or Colecoviison (a little help on which is safer?) and if both joysticks and buttons activate the character, then it's the first type. I can't think of a definitive test for the other except if only 1 joystick moves the character in the above test, then it's. Or maybe it's a paddle game fire test, like Steeplechase or Party Mix, something where you can test 2 independent fire buttons on 1A and 1B, As well as 2A and 2B The things I don't have for my gemini are joysticks, RF switchbox, and power cord. First I know that ANY controller made for the 2600 will work on a Gemini, so that won't be a hard test. Also I know standard pre-NES RF switchbox or an RF to RCA adapter on that useless analog RF plug on a VCR and a standard single RCA cable would do it for any RF system with a Single RCA hole out. But about power, I don't know if a 2600 JR power adapter would work with it, or if I have to get a "regular" 2600 cord, or even a special Gemini Cord. Finally will using Track&Field controller on the Colecovision for The Activision Decathlon ruin your system? I've had temporary problems with it, but got cured when I remove it. Will it work with Carnival? (I assume left button equals left press, and right button equals right press, and there's no up and down and only 1 fire button in Carnival.) Although not technically Y adapters because there's only 2 branches, not 3, does anyone know where I can get a lefty adapter for either the 2600 stick, or the 7800 pad (such an adapter would invert up and down as well as left and right. There might have to be a button swapping adapter for 7800 games where the concept of left and right are important than main and secondary) or an Atari-joystick-to-Astrocade system adapter, or an Astrocade-joystick-to-Atari-system adapter in either Joystick (easy) or Paddle (much harder engineering-wise) mode?,
  9. I'm selling a Super UFO 3DO 6 button controller on ebay. (one is all you need since you can't daisy chain it.) eBay Auction -- Item Number: 261068920289 Auction ends Saturday July 21st a little after 7 PM eastern.
  10. I was the one who bought those 2. I didn't realize they were such rare joysticks. I was offered 19.99 + shipping to buy it now when called the dealer but I decided to take my chances on this auction. If I would haver seen this, I would have taken the 19.99 BIN.Luckily it went for $16 and change. That's the bad news for everyone else. I've got some good news for everyone. As it turns out, there is no daisy chain adapter to plug another controller into it. Therefore, you can't plug 2 controllers in and play Samurai showdown or Street Fighter 2 Grand Master Challenge 2 players. So the most number of joysticks one needs to own is 1 (except if it's for collectors purposes) Ironically, actually plugging it into a 3DO came up with 5 weird things. First as I mentioned before you can't Daisy Chain so it has to be at the end of a chain. (Player 3 on an 3 player game) Second. I tired plugging it straight into a GoldStar 3DO for 3 different games and it doesn't work, so it can't be an only joystick. (not sure about Panasonic) The third is that it must be plugged in before you turn on the 3DO, or else it won't recognize it. The fourth is very weird. I have 2 Naki 3DO controllers ghat I bought 2 for 10 including shipping. I tested it with PGA tour, the only 4 player game in my collection. With 3 joysticks, you can have the Naki as 1UP and a Goldstar pad as 2UP and have the Super UFo be the 3UP, but if the Goldstar is 1Up and the Naki is 2UP, the Super UFO is not recognized as 3up. It seems since the Super UFO AND the Naki is not 3DO licensed, there is problem with it working with the 3DO system directly, hence rule 3. But it will work inside a 3DO controller and understands 3DO controllers but gets thrown a curveball when dealing with a Naki. But since the UFO directly deals with a Goldstar, the Naki in front of it doesn't matter. I bought a Pansonic 3DO arcade stick and the rules still apply. Both Super UFO's work well plugged into a Panasonic or a Goldstar controller. Just remember, to get it to work, you must follow the above rules,and you'll be fine. Finally, if you screw in the joystick nub before you power it on, the joystick will read off center and the buttons won't work, bt if you screw it in after you press a button on a controller before it, it will work. I'll consider trading or selling one of the Super UFO's. By the way, I'm planning on turning one of the Nakis into a part of a buton programmable, ambidextrous joystick system, meaning I'm sacrificing 1 controller gut for each system I own to get a right handed fighting stick. now I can add 3DO to it. I just cant have the Super UFO as player 2 if this is player 1.
  11. Hey Hardhat, First of all, it depends on the Y-apapter. Some are designed to hok up a coleco joypad and a 2600 stick. That will work with a 7800 as long as you don't have to press both buttons simultaneously. To Confirm it, I tested it with Space Fury. With A CV controller I could thrust constantly and pump to fire. With a 7800 controller I had to either thrust or fire, not both at the same time. But other Y adapters are designed to work with the Gemini to hook up 2 Gemini joysticks to a single port for paddle games, because each Gemini controller has one joystick and one paddle together on one stick and there's only 2 ports. Finally I'm not suggesting you can remap a Super Action to a Genesis game. I just noticed playing a Gernesis game with a CV Super action the roller was automatically mapped to 2 different buttons, one when rolling it one way, another going the other. I'm not suggesting you can control the mapping. It's just that playing with the controller has interesting effects. I haven't tried it with a 6-button game. I should test that tomorrow.
  12. I just did the first thing I said I would, I tried a Colecovision 2 Button gasme with both a 7800Pro-Line and a 7800 Joypad. They both work with ONE caveat. This is evident in Tutankham. You can shoot left by pressing the left button. You can shoot right by pressing the right button. But you CAN'T use your smart bomb by pressing both buttons together. It didn't work with joypad or 7800 joystick, but the colecovision joystick plugged in at the same time let me do smart bombs by pressing both buttons. And the reverse is even worse. Neither button works on a Coleco Vision controller plugged into a 7800. If you want a more comfortable controller, do what I do, take a functional joystick/pad, use it as a sacrificial circuit board, and have a "custom joystick builder" wire your joypad or arcade style joystick into the actuators, kind of like how Street Fighter players make custom joysticks. If you're able to remap the wires, you could make an ambidextrous joystick, and because in games like Tutankham where the concept of left fire and right fire is important, when you swap the joystick to be right handed, you can manually swap the buttons too. You can even use your controller buttons actuate the 1,2,3, and 5 buttons for Mouse Trap. In my case, you'd use a colecovision controller sacrificed for Colecovision games, and a 7800 Pro Line sacrificed for the 7800 games to work with my Sanwa joystick.
  13. Oh an update, there were 3 things wrong. One the tape was covering the contact. 2 the silver electric contact button was oriented 180 degrees wrong, and 3 the contact was dirty, so I isopropylholed the contact, got more scotch tape, and made the silver disc oriented the same way is he right hand side. One, Two or all 3 of those things fixed the problem. I just played, "How is the left button not like the right button?".
  14. I've go a 7800 joystick a 7800 joypad, 4 DB9 Y-Apapters (2 of them are the Gemini "wye" adapters, which has a function of plugging 2 single paddles of the Gemini controllers into one of 2 ports, but the other 2 are designed to have an 2600 joystick and coleocvision pad plug in together) I'l try it with a 7800 and y adpater and many different coleco games with 2 buttons. Also as a side note, the speed roller on the super action controller maps to buttons on the Genesis. I have to play Golden Axe (3 button), Street Fighter New Challengers (6 button) and Shadow Squadron (uses the mode button as an actual function other than enabling 3-buton mode) to get a clear mapping.
  15. It's not a dumb question. It's just found one person who said you could pry it open, and it doesn't permanently ruin the trakball. If you didn't ask the question, I wouldn't have found this answer, so thank you.
  16. IfI remember right the 2 bottoms action buttons were the same. I held the controller in my left hand, putting my left hand thumb o the let to bottom, left index and ring on top right and bottom right, and used my right index finger (and for any left/right games my right middle finder) to move. TO operate the keypad, I dial it with my right index finger, just like a touch tone phone. I was thinking of adding adapters in between the intellivision, (or intellivoice if using it) and the game for an external joystick adapter, where you can plug in custom joysticks, and do one other function I was thinking of. It would override the pads so you can control it with the new modern pad.
  17. I'm in the same sitch as theGamezmaster. Then I got to the point of the "two middle screws" not coming out. At first I thought it was a proprietary screw, so I searched Atari CX22 Bristol Screw and came on this page. Then I read this forum, and I got Ataritard's comment, the center holes also had the same sized philips head screws. theGamezmaster insists it's a proprietary screw. So I took a leap of faith. I noticed the lip between the top and bottom was a little loose, so I took a flathead, carefully separated it by running the flathead around the seam to make it loose enough so a pry doesn't damage the casing in case I did t wrong, pried it open and viola. It was opened. I used CD cleaner (Isopropyhol) to clean it. Will test it tomorrow when housemates are awake. By the way, if a left hand button is ruined, does that mean the main user before me was right handed? And if that's the case, why do right handers put up with left-handed Street Fighter joysticks, especially when you have to pull of those Dragon Punches? If both hands can type equally well, why use your good hand or the button pressing when it can be used for the more complex motion of moving a joystick/paddle/trakball? Posting this segue as a separate post unrelated to the trakball.
  18. Sorry to resurrect a old forum, but... The 7800 has a tall screen. And someone said that was a bad thing. The 5200, along with the 2600, Intelliviision, and Colecovision, are"pan and scan" versions. The dimensions of the screen is not the the arcade. When a movie is made pan and scan, it destroys the picture composition by either panning and scanning, slicing and dicing (when you jump between the "left half" and "right half" in a frame, or worst of all "skinny-scope". In video games it even more fundamentally changes the game. You have more horizontal room, which at first makes it harder, by making you hit dead air more often with more vertical columns, if the characters are the same proportion as the arcade, and less vertical room. which makes it easier later by giving you more columns so there's less time worrying about activating leas to clear scorpion-poisoned mushrooms. It's also easier to kill a scorpion in a 4:3 than a 3:4 screen. More verrtical room and being able to maneuver in the bottom third is more Centepede like and less Galaxian like. The 7800 versio preserves the arcades proportions of how game elements work with each other. If you can play an arcade version, and compare the 7800 and 5200 versions, which ones have strategy more compatible with the arcade version without making certain things easier or harder than the arcade? The only advantage the 5200 has is the trakball. I wish (though I wouldn't waste a genie wish on it) if someone made hobbyist 7800 Centipede Trackball Hack cartridges in a decent quantity. They should sell it at best-electronics-ca.com The other 7800 game I'd like is Possible Mission, the beatable version of Impossible Mission. Maybe Best Electronics can distribute it to hobyists who have a common interest instead of being dispersed on ebay.
  19. I've got a theory on how to build a "Netari 2600" a networked Atari 2600. I relies on piggybacking something that reads and writes random numbers and time stamps and writing a subroutine to pause a game if the networked isn't synched. My theory is based on the fact that I've got a network connection that will be able to beat a 16 ms ping time (16 ms/frame= 60 fps) And this theory will work with every 2-or-more-player, 1-screen, 1-controller-per-player game. No matter how great or small. Anyone who nows how to build either a piggyback device, or can modify a 2600 to transmit and receive joystick (easy, use a 9 pin Y adapter) random number and timestamp (harder without disrupting the game) contact me, and we can build a Netari based on my theory. tripletopperATearthlinkDOTnet
  20. I noticed Xbox couldn't truly network 2600 games. I've got a couple theories on this. 1 What is the controller red rate in reads/second for the 2600, others of its contemporaries, and future systems. I'm thinking it's similar to TV refresh rates, 60 Hz,. A cynical investor thinks the controller read rates are more in line with 8 frames/second. (I'll tell you why that's cynical later) 2. Is it true that to do a live joystick stream, you have to beat the time of one controller frame? (if 60 Hz, you need to beat 16 ms, if 8 Hz, you ned to beat 125 ms) I assume that's true. 3. Typical network traffic get anywhere from 80-150 ms ping or a trip between Cleveland and Chicago (600 km). And that would be too high of a ping time to work with joystick streaming. Is the reason because network traffic doesn't go from point A to point B and the only way to beat that is build a private network? 4. Would it make too much "extra programming" to networkize a 2600 game on the 360, an since most 2600 games are reflex an not strategy it's hard to anticipate how an opponent would act an the only way to networkize a 2600 game is to beat the ping time. I got theories on how to build a "Net-ari 2600" Current Atari and Sega brass say if I can show this works, they'll endorse my product. If my theories are correct and someone knows how to modify a 2600 to A) Y off your controller data to your machine and a network machine, B) receive joystick data from the net, C) Deal with random number data in a way so player 1 transmits its random numbers to the other machines and the rest bypass the normal random number generator and receive random data from the internet, and D) add administration data to temporarily pause a game if there is a network brownout. or frames out of sync all this with either a modified 2600 or a modern machine that plays 100% accurately 100% of 2600 games, (a real chip is probably the answer, no emulation, with a modern piggyback for dealing with those 4 factors above), we can build a Net-ari 2600. I've got the theory but my electronic skill is limited to cleaning dirty contacts on an old controller, and my programming skills are limited to a first semester college course. I need hep to do this. I either need $16,000 i funding or an electrical and programming hand to do this. Anyone interested, email me with your email and or US/Canada phone number, and well talk. My email is tripletopperATearthlinkDOTnet. If you're not smart enough to get an email address out of that string, then I don't know if you're the right person for me. I assume pretty much everyone reading this except most spambot computers can understand my email.
  21. By improving the signal, I mean stuff like plugging a composite video into a DVD and outputting that through HDMI. There's a digital delay and a upgrade, one of those alone would run the video game. Both of those combined, OUCH. If you want to record a light gun game through a DVD recorder or DVR, but want to play it with no lag (I.e. the Light Gun accurtely capturing the target) , do the following: 1) Buy 2-3 RCA Y-Cable adapters and appropriate sex changers if you cant find an exact match, and 2 extra sets of cables. 2) Plug the Video and audio out into the Y adapter. Plug the other 2 RCA cables in the DVD input and the direct TV input. 3) Start the DVD recording (make sure it's on the right DVD input) then turn to the direct TV input and play while watching the direct feed. The DVD might be a frame or less behind, but who cares, DVD's are for replays not for the original game, which you're watching on the direct feed. Unfortunately, you can't replay SegaScope 3D games because he sync is in the system, and the DVD recorder can't interact with the Master System.
  22. I heard every TV can play old Zapper/Segascope 3D game if you don't try to upgrade the signal, but program your TV to run S-Video, Composite, or RF analog in their appropriate resolution. Every modern TV has the ability to run analogue TV for low powered stations. To PLay 2600's you must switch out of digital TV mode and switch to analogue. It seems like most of the problems arise when to try to artificially improve the image. A Sony 32 inch LED screen is meant to be a gamer's screen, and according to Sony, there is a mode which accurately preserves the 480i mod, and the left-to right scanline mode. And Sony said it's common in most TV's, not just Sony's. Their advice is if you want to optical devices like light guns and SegaScope to work, running it as close to the original as possible gives the best results. It's sort of like a PS2's when playing PS1 games: Artificially improving loadtimes or polygons increase the chance for incompatibility. If you leave it at the native resolution (or only improve games that don't rely on Optics) your optical games should work fine.
  23. I'm no sure about Minidisc. I tried it with a Bally Astrocade, and the recording of the analog squelches in Bally Basic doesn't work well. Is it something wrrong with MiniDisc, or Bally Basic. Will I have a similar problem with Supercharger?
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