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About bob1200xl

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    River Patroller

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    Placerville, CA 95667

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  1. That looks like a line filter. You should be able to just disconnect it - pull off the spade lugs on each end. Be careful that you do not pull anything else. Printer should work without it. Is the line fuse blown? Need to replace if it is. Bob
  2. Piece of cake... PM me your name and address. Bob
  3. I have many keycaps. What you need to do is guess which color you need. They range from white to yellow. Can you take a really good picture of the keyboard? Bob
  4. The front switch is an online/offline switch, not power. Rear switch is power. Bob
  5. Can you take a picture of the problem? Do you have a meter? (and know how to use it?) Where are you located? The 1025 is an Okidata 80 printer. If you can find a service shop that does Okidata, they can fix your 1025, probably. Bob
  6. What kind of memory expansion are you looking for? The 65816 used in accelerators has linear memory up to 16MB. Non-linear (bank-switched) memory has XE modes and Rambo modes.
  7. A cassette uses the SIO. What are you trying to boot? You have a 1050 but no disks? What happens when you try to boot only the 1050 with no disk? Bob
  8. Good job fixing the stem. That said, don't use that repaired one. I'll send you three spares, OK? As long as the keycap is good, you're good! Bob
  9. If you broke off the keystem, there will be pieces stuck in the cap. You need to remove them or get a new keycap. I have them. Bob
  10. It is pretty much a matter of programming the GAL. The most effective way to make changes is to plug the board into the CPU and connect a 20-pin flat cable to the new board from the MMU socket. No added wiring - plug and play. Looks something like this: (this is not a memory upgrade...) Bob
  11. OK... these are factory disks, right? 'Won't boot' means what exactly? Reads first 18 sectors and then hangs? Pretty much three ways that a disk goes 'bad'. Someone writes over your data: Should not be possible with a write-protected disk, but we're talking about something went 'wrong' because you can't read them anymore. If this is the case, you can read the new data but that won't get you a good boot. Lots of possibilities here - we'll leave this one till last. The disk sleeve is 'binding': The media should rotate freely in the jacket. Crud built up on the inside of the disk will slow you down or even stop disk rotation. Take the top cover off and watch the latch close on the disk. If the speed seems to vary as you latch the drive, you may have sleeve problems. You can cut the media out of the jacket and insert it into a new, good disk in order to recover data. Then, throw it away. The magnetic coating has been damaged: Probably the first thing you should look for are wear rings anywhere on the media. Could be wrinkles from when you stepped on it - anything but smooth, uniform surface. Check both sides. If it isn't too severe, you might recover most or all of the old data. Did you notice that none of these scenarios get you a 'good' factory disk? Of course not... Trash your bad disks and get some new factory ones if you aren't trying to recover data. If you have backups/disk images/working copies (whazzat?), use them. Bob
  12. How do you know it is bad and how do you know a new chip will fix it? I have some 2797s but I don't know if they are good. Bob
  13. No, you can't use HD diskettes, no matter what. You can use 720K 5.25 drives, though, with DD diskettes. Same setup as a 3.5 80 track 720K. I did some QD disks way back when, but switched to 3.5 after a while. Bob
  14. The fact that your drive goes thru the format process would seem to indicate that the SIO is functional. You send it a format command and it tries to comply. Best thing to do is swap the drive with a known good XF551 drive. If it is the drive, you have very little recourse other than replacing the drive. You could send the whole unit to someone that has the resources but back and forth to Canada would be brutal from out here on the West Coast. Bob
  15. You need to strip off all the old mylar and wipe all the gold key contacts with 91% alcohol. Use Goof-Off to clean the contact fingers, then wipe that with 91%. Do not use the Best spacer-thing. Just assemble the k/b with the new mylar. It will work just fine. Bob
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