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scelbi8h

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About scelbi8h

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  • Birthday 12/06/1980

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  1. I wrote him a mail before I noticed about the board version. He replied and said he will do something about it BTW, very nice board, looks and fits great on the mainboard, and works very well. My 600XL didn't look so nice with the 64kb board that had installed under the CPU, because the case didn't close well and I could see an open space on the front of the computer. Now it looks as it should. First thing I did was loading Prince of Persia
  2. Answering to myself: I was looking at the wrong PDF. This is an V2 board. 576KB_SRAM_600XL_V2.pdf (van-radecke.de) Everything OK now, I'm going to finish the install right away
  3. Hi there, I just received a 576Kb RAM upgrade from tf_hh. It's easy to fit but I have a question with the cables. It should come with 3 cables attached to the connector - red, brown and black. But instead this is what I got: I've been trying to get some example pictures on the web, but I can't find any. Either the cables are ok and for some reason there's an extra salmon colour cable, or the red cable should be attached where this one is and they are all one place shifted. As you can see, this computer has no memory chips (it came with a Lotharek 64 RAM expansion already removed). So according to the instructions: ...and... So I know I only need to connect 2 cables (see the already prepared MMU with bent legs). But which ones? salmon and red, or red and brown? EDIT: Now I'm really confused. I found this picture: My board is almost identical (same writtings on it), but this one in the picture has a 3 leg connector, while mine has 4 legs. I checked the 4 legs on my board and they all have traces going somewhere 😮
  4. I have a question about it - do I select 48 or 52k? I have one of these expansions on the way and I don't see much information on this. Is there any incompatibility if I select the 52K RAM? Can I run all the software and cartridges, or are there some limitations? I'd like place the jumper in any of the options and close the computer, so what I'll choose will stay that way.
  5. I learnt the lesson I got this idea somewhere. In some page or PDF I read about a mod where the C54 had to be lifted by one leg and a switch could be installed there if you wanted to use composite, because with that mod the composite colour got disabled. I've been looking for that document but I can't find it right now, so maybe I'm mistaken and it doesn't apply to C54 but another capacitor. Quoting myself here, because I do have a picture from the board as it was before working on it, taken by the seller from eBay. A bit blurry but you can see the missing capacitor and some other modifications. (BTW, almost everything is socketed!) Zooming in, here you can see in the circle a resistor making a bridge, and pointed with arrows the missing capacitor and a resistor installed over another. There was another resistor like this, but I can't locate it now. There's no picture from the other side of the board. And now for some pictures from before... ...and after. It had a weird uneven yellowing on the white part of the case, but a deep cleaning and a couple of mornings in this winter sun left it like this. Very nice one, with an Alps switches keyboard. The keys have no signs of use on the surface (function keys even still have the protective plastic layer), and it's a pleasure to use it. By the way, I have other two 800XLs, a 600XL and an 800 and none of them have the mylar keyboard. So far I never saw one, I thought it was common to get an Atari computer with the mylar keyboard, or maybe I was just lucky. I was thinking about selling this computer after fixing it... But on a second thought I feel I want to keep it. 😃
  6. Solved! My Atari 800XL is not a B/W computer anymore! I received this morning that transistor set, so after getting it went home and replaced Q1... just to find out the issue was somewhere else, because placing a new transistor there did nothing at all. So I started looking carefully at the board. Well, there where 2 strange resistors doing piggyback on others, another one acting as a jumper, C54 was missing and the modulator had all the cables cut. Also on the bottom, there was a jumper cable going to the chroma pin on the DIN socket. So I guess somebody did an S-Video mod and if I only had a S-Video cable I may have seen colours right away, because I suppose composite colour got disabled with this mod. I couldn't see all these things before because until now I didn't remove the RF shield. I decided to undo all these modifications and installed that UAV board I had left (I purchased 3 of them a couple of months ago, and thought I would never need more... and now I'm out of UAVs!). The C54 capacitor was still missing and couldn't find a replacement, so the C54 socket was left empty. Never mind, once installed the UAV gave a beautiful colour picture. Well, not right away, because as I turned the computer ON I saw a B/W screen, but turning the pot did the trick. After some adjustments it is showing the right colours, so I consider it fixed. Only the S-Video out has to be checked (A cable is on the way), which I will connect to an HDMI monitor through a RetroTink converter. As always, I got really focused on fixing stuff and forgot to take pictures. I only have a couple from my CRT TV right after fixing the computer. But I couldn't get the phone to focus properly, nor they are showing the same colours I see with my eyes. But you can get an idea: I'm very pleased with the result. Thanks guys for your advice!
  7. My 800 comes with the Hitec keyboard, so I can't apply this. But this gives me an idea for my C64s... What software did you use for creating the PCB?
  8. Thanks for the advice. I bought a box with some different transistors, but I'm afraid they are all made in china or similar. From now on I'll be looking for the Darlington ones. Well, I hope with the new transistor (if that's the issue) and the UAV I'll get a nice image.
  9. But I'm not using the S-Video out, just composite. The content of that thread looks promising! It makes sense one of the transistors is defective, so I'm going to try that first and maybe see what happens with another 74LS74 I must have around while I get the parts. Thanks!! EDIT: Just ordered a set box with some different transistors from Amazon, I should have it tomorrow. As I saw in this service manual, Q1-5 are the same as in the 130XE (2N3904) which is included in this transistor set. Atari 800XL Field Service Manual (Page 28 of 30) | ManualsLib Hopefully I'll have it fixed by tomorrow! I was also thinking about installing an UAV board I have around. My question is, does the UAV replaces only the IC where is mounted or some other components from the video circuit too?
  10. Hi guys, I got today an Atari 800XL and while everything works ok, it shows on screen a lovely black and white image (looks really sharp!). It's a PAL machine, and I'm using with this CRT TV both PAL and NTSC Ataris with no issue, so it's something coming from the computer. I'm getting the image from the composite video out - I don't have yet an S-Video cable. My first thought (and I'm positive is where the problem is located) was to turn the potentiometer on board. Well, no luck, moving it all the way to the left and right made no change, but only at the very end of it when turning it in clockwise direction. While I get some change on this position, it shows horrible looking bleeding colors. It's like if I could get the good image if only the potentiometer could go beyond this point. Do you think it's a matter of a faulty potentiometer? Or maybe it got out of spec for some other reason? Otherwise the computer works great, I was even doing some BBSing in 80 columns mode - with this sharp B/W image it looked great in 80 column mode! A couple of images:
  11. I'll take pictures later of my configuration settings and post them, because I am (and I was before) talking from memory. If it still does not work with the same settings, maybe there's something wrong with the SIO port, with the Incognito installation, or something else. Do you have any other SIO device to try with this 800?
  12. It happened to me few days ago when I installed the Incognito inside my 800 too. It was a question of having the right settings on the Incognito configuration. Make sure the SIO ports are enabled in the options - in my case they were disabled by default. I hope that's your case too!
  13. Soon should be available the A8 port of L'Abbaye Des Morts. In this game you have to collect just that, crosses.
  14. Yes, it is a 2100mA PSU I see you are multiplying the output by SQR(2). About the original PSU, being 9.5 means it gets the equivalent of 13.4VDC. Isn't it to low voltage for the 7812 regulator? I thought the 78xx needed over 2V from the voltage they are regulating. Well, I see it will be fine to use this 2100mA 9V AC power supply. Anyway while I'm using the 800 and 400 on my desk I'm going to stick to the original Atari PSU plus the step down converter. If I use it in another room or any other place, I will use the Amazon one then (by the way, it's a "RockPower by Warwick" PSU model RP NT8 EU, if it means something).
  15. I don't think that's too high, because being AC it's supposed to get lower when a load is connected. I even think the 9.5V is a bit low, but I may be wrong. All my C64 and C128 PSU I have around give more or less that value on the 9VAC side. If fact, I just measured a new built C64 PSU and an old one, and I got 11.5 and 11.9V. My Atari 400 worked without problems with this PSU, but I can't say I used it much, just a couple of times to see if it works. I plan to use it now after ordering a RAM upgrade and SCCC board, but so far it stayed ON like for 10 minutes in total since I got it about 5 years ago.
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