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Everything posted by cwc

  1. Attached are all the Happy Warp Speed Software .ATRs I have found over the years. I think *only* Version 7.1 had a Side B (Documentation and IBM Xfer Utility + additional PDBs). Has anyone got any other versions they can add for posterity? Happy Warp Speed Software V5.0.atr Happy Warp Speed Software V5.2.ATR Happy Warp Speed Software V5.3.atr Happy Warp Speed Software V6.6.atr Happy Warp Speed Software V7.0.atr Happy Warp Speed Software V7.1 Side 1.ATR Happy Warp Speed Software V7.1 Side 2.ATR
  2. Thanks @DrVenkman. Crystal clear. What you describe is how I understood things. All this talk of connecting to "lifted ends" was confusing me a bit! Perhaps "vacated vias" would be a more accurate description of where you have to solder the connections. I connected mine up exactly as you did, which is in line with the original instructions at http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3432251. I'm not sure if I ever saw the photos showing (incorrect) connections soldered direct to the lifted ends of the inductors themselves that you refer to, though.
  3. Just wanted to clarify matters around the connection to the "lifted ends" of L1 (Luma) and L3 (Composite) on the 1200XL. The original instructions early in this thread were to connect to the pads vacated by the back pins of these inductors and not to the lifted end of the inductors themselves. Did anyone try / get better results soldering direct to the lifted end of the inductors?
  4. David's formatting issue discussed in the following thread turned out to be caused by U21 (3086) http://atariage.com/forums/topic/265289-drive-reads-writes-fine-but-wont-format/?do=findComment&comment=3757248
  5. I had a similar issue and got lots of help here back in 2015. It turned out to be U21 (3086). http://atariage.com/forums/topic/239200-another-strange-1050-fault/
  6. I had the same issues and got lots of help here back in 2015. It turned out to be U21 (3086). http://atariage.com/forums/topic/239200-another-strange-1050-fault/
  7. Recent posts reminded me provide an update on the sticker I was trying to replicate. The attached JPG is as close to the original sticker I could get in the end (and it is very close). The attached PDF has six stickers on one A4 sheet. I had good results printing on to A4 glossy white self adhesive paper. Happy Switch Stickers.pdf
  8. Congratulations on your newly acquired Atari goodness! Are you holding down the "Option" button when you turn the 800XL on?
  9. Have a look at http://www.xl-project.com
  10. Seen loads of 1050s on eBay recently with three way write protect and now Happy fast/slow switch. e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291796357335. Assuming these are Happy remakes (such as those sold by Atarimax) has someone worked out how to add a fast/slow switch to them? If so, does anyone here have any ideas how to do it?
  11. Atari++ emulator "Interfaces to "Hias'" AtariSIO driver, allowing you to connect real Atari hardware to the PC" http://www.xl-project.com
  12. Here are some pictures of the original 1050 Happy Enhancement and Happy Controller. The logic ICs on the Controller are DM74LS00 (Quad 2-Input NAND Gate) and 74LS74APC (Dual D-Type Flip Flop). J11 plugs into the Controller. 4 Outputs on the Controller adjacent to the DM74LS00 (L to R: Grey, Red, Red, Red) go to the J11 pins on the 1050 board and appear to control read/write operations via a three position switch (Always Write/Always Protect/Normal Operation) and 5 outputs adjacent to the 74LS74APC (L to R, Grey, Red, Red, Red, Red) go to the Happy Enhancement and appear to control the Fast/Slow modes via a two position switch. I hope this post is helpful. I would imagine it would be easy for someone with the time/knowledge to produce an exact clone of the Controller, but I wonder if it would be possible to produce a version that works with the more recent Atarimax (clone) Happy Enhancements? Also, is anyone able to post a scan of the original Controller installation instructions (not the Happy Enhancement installation instructions or Revision 7 Software Instructions, which are available)?
  13. I'm not sure if this will be any use to anyone but attached is a jpeg image of the sticker that shows the various positions for the Happy Controller toggle switches. The sticker on the top of my Happy enhanced 1050 had seen much better days. So, I scanned it and did my best to tidy up the image and ensure it is exactly the same size as the original sticker. It looks fine printed by inkjet as a trial, so for the finished article I'm going to (laser) print it on to glossy self adhesive paper like the original.
  14. Does anyone know anything about and/or can anyone post an .atr of the AlphaLoad-esque musical menu system for Happy 1050 called "Ultra Lightspeedboot"? I found a video on YouTube. I had not heard of it before and am now intrigued as it looks pretty cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhyiIFFCpC0
  15. You seem to have the dreaded Wang capacitors First, try the 1050 again. I have several Happy drives that occasionally do this. Usually they start working again after a quick power cycle, but sometimes I have to leave them off (sweating it out) and then turn them on after a few minutes and they have thankfully come back to life (oh the relief!). If the symptoms remain, reseat / push in the socketed chips including the Happy and reseat / push in all the connectors in the drive. If the symptoms remain, do as Bryan suggested and remove the Happy and replace the original drive chips. If the symptoms remain, check power as Puppetmark suggested. As I recall Q7 (5v regulator) should have around 12v going in and around 5v coming out and Q8 (12v regulator) which should have around 24v going in and around 12v coming out. Between Test Point (TP) 13 and ground you should get around 5v and between TP14 and ground you should get around 12v. Please keep us posted. Good luck! 1050 Service Manuals: http://www.atarimania.com/documents/atari-1050-field-service-manual.pdf http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf
  16. Update: Lifted, cleaned and re-seated GTIA, ANTIC, MMU, CPU, OS and BASIC ROMs but symptoms persisted. Freezing the ANTIC (only) made the issues disappear. The ANTIC runs no hotter than any of the other large chips and is certainly nowhere near as hot running as the MMU, but the ANTIC is indeed the problem. I won't have too much difficulty making up my Best Electronics minimum $20 order now! Many thanks to all who responded.
  17. Many thanks to all who responded. An update: I tried a heatsink on the MMU and, on closer inspection of the motherboard, found that L10 (RF choke) looked burned so I replaced it. However, the problems remain. Taking Rescue on Fractalus as an example of how the problems appear after the 800XL has been powered on for a couple of hours, the Lucasfilm title, the animated loading screen, the text on the title screen and high score table are all graphically rock solid. However, when the game goes into cockpit view on the demo mode the graphical glitches (flickering and distortion) occur. I am now wondering whether the issue is restricted to a particular graphics mode and whether the GTIA (it’s a UK PAL machine) or ANTIC may be at fault. I’m still sure that this is an issue triggered by heat so what I think I will try next is removing and reseating the GTIA and ANTIC after cleaning their pins. I will also try 1050’s idea of piping coolant on to suspect components while the 800xl is displaying the symptoms to try and identify the culprit. I will report back in due course. Any other ideas in the meantime?
  18. Many thanks for all the replies. As the 800XL seems to work fine with the RF shield off, I am going to try a heatsink on the MMU. Just picked up one of these from Maplin: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ic-heatsink-1416-pin-rn69a. Just waiting for adhesive thermal pad to arrive tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on.
  19. I’ve got an 800XL with (the brilliant) SuperVideo 2.1 modification. The computer which works fine for about 2 hours then has video issues e.g. occasional slight distortion of the picture and also slight interference at the right of the screen which seems to reflect SIO access. I noticed some distortion around the sprites in World Championship Karate. Nothing major, but rather annoying. I opened the 800XL up and found that the MMU (CO61618) is *really* hot to touch when the computer is running. I could find nothing else running hot and couldn't see anything else that was unusual. If I run the 800XL on the desk without case or metal shield the issues do not occur. All the internal Self Tests pass with flying colours. It would appear that the overheating MMU is causing the issue, but could another component be causing the MMU to run hot? Any ideas?
  20. Update: Great news! Drive is formatting again in all densities and is fully functional. Tonight I established that the write issues after replacing U17, U21 and CR10 were due to a bad replacement CR10 diode. Doh! So I soldered the original back in and found that formatting worked. The culprit was therefore U21 (3086). To test the drive I have: copied unprotected SD, ED and DD disks with format before write using the Happy Sector Copier; ran the Happy diagnostics; successfully booted from a range of SD/DD/protected/unprotected disks in my ageing collection; formatted disks in all densities with and without verify using Prosystem via USB; formatted disks in SD and DD in Happy Warp Speed DOS and copied protected disks with Happy backup. Disks created in the *ex*-problem drive all read fine on all my other drives and I couldn't be happier! Note: The resistance measurement on pins 6 and 9 of U17 remains at "1." whereas I swear that a reading with probes in the same pins on my other drives is around 6.5 (Is this a red herring?) I can also confirm, for completeness, that the voltage at the striped end of CR8 in the ex-problem drive while powered on was bang on 4.7v. Nothing more to say except a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who has helped me here and in particular 1050 who was there from the beginning and whose suggestions have been invaluable in pointing the way to solving the problem.
  21. Many thanks. A further Update: J6 was plugged in correctly and all the resistance readings are fine. R2 resitsance is fine as well. Replaced U17, CR10 and U21 (3086) (I forgot what a delicate operation desoldering 1050 chips was - but I managed it - new chips nicely socketed). The result is: format still fails on verify stage (drive formats to track 39 then grinds back to track 0 then back up to track 39) BUT the disk is now being erased once again. I checked normal read and write operations and they are fine as ever. This is very unscientfic, but when I was idly comparing resistance readings with two of my other drives (while powered off), When I took a reading across U17 pins 9 and 6 in the problem drive the multimeter (20k setting) stayed at "1." whereas the other two drives read around 6.5. Replacing U17 has proved that it is not the cause of the issues in the problem drive but perhaps this information might be useful to someone who is better at electronics than me in pointing the waytowards which component(s) may have failed...... Any further help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. **Edit** - Drive is not writing properly - Writes (to disks formatted in working drives) appear to work fine, but cannot be read in the problem drive or other drives (Prosystem Error - "Error Identifying Disk Format"]
  22. Update: I tried adjusting VR3 / C36 without success, losing the ability to read/write in the process. So I put VR3 / C36 back to their original positions so that the drive now reads and writes in all densities perfectly once more. I've just noticed that aborted formats now do not wipe the disk - the data remains intact - so, there is no write during format. Current symptoms: When the drive receives the format command it spins up and begins formatting immediately. The head gets to the last track (39?) and instead of stepping back on the verify phase the head steps back very slowly track by track and the format eventually times out with an error. As, after a period of unreliability, the drive has finally lost the ability to format (but, as far as I can tell, works perfectly in all other respects) does this suggest a failed component i.e. something that would interfere with the signals to commence / undertake / complete the verify stage of a format? Any ideas? I'm certainly no expert but the U13 FDC datasheet suggests that formatting simply involves writing and as writing is fine in all other respects, there can't be anything major wrong with the drive? Seems a crying shame that on a 30 year old drive I can read disks of a similar age backwards and forwards to and from a pc via usb(!), but something relatively minor could be stopping the drive from functioning just as it did when it left the factory all those years ago...
  23. Analog Issue 47 page 7 has a Happy advert which explains that "WARP SPEED DOS XL is HAPPY's own version of OSS DOS XL, and includes under cartridge, under ROM and AXLON RAM disk version, and is order number HC4G at $29.95" https://archive.org/download/analog-computing-magazine-47/Analog_Computing_47_1986-10_DLI_Tutorial_Deathzone.pdf From Michael Current FAQ: "Software sold [by Happy] separately, each supports Warp Speed read/write: - Customizer Program (create non-standard disks track-by-track) - Warp Speed DOS XL (by OSS, modified by Happy Computers [see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOS_XL] - TOP DOS 1.5 & up, by Eclipse Software - SuperDOS for Happy ©1986 by H.C.I." I also found a modified DOS 2.5 (.atr attached) 237.atr
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