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ivop

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ivop last won the day on April 9 2017

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About ivop

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  1. If I'm not mistaken, you can do something like: __asm__(" lda #$12 sta $02c4 )"; Or use \n and/or \t and perhaps \ for line continuation?
  2. Your Raspberry Pi can translate the analog values to discrete values similar to what I did here (read up to the third post where the range was sufficiently increased to reliable detect up/down left/right): You don't need to know about a dead zone. Just the thresholds after which it is definitely up or down (left or right). Edit: like -32768...-1500 is down, -1499...1499 is nothing, 1500...32767 is up. Remember, every direction on the joystick port has its own bit. So you can actually do nothing if you are not sure yet
  3. Yes. It's the same protocol the SNES uses. You could wire the SNES2JOY as a NES2JOY if you want to:
  4. What you call two display memories, is more generally called double buffering and page flipping. With this method, at the end of clearing and drawing your buffer, you are always waiting for a vertical blank, which wastes precious cycles. There's also triple buffering. Start with all buffers clear. Buffer 1 is displayed, buffer 3 is cleared, buffer 2 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 3, at vblank flip to buffer 2. Buffer 2 is displayed, buffer 1 is cleared, buffer 3 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 1, at vblank flip to buffer 3. Buffer 3 is diaplayed, buffer 2 is cleared, buffer 1 is drawn to, when done do not wait for vblank but start drawing to buffer 2, at vblank flip to buffer 1. Repeat. Edit: This way you are never unnecessarily waiting for a vertical blank.
  5. No, not as far as I know. But the design is open for everybody to build and/or sell and not even send me a thank you https://github.com/ivop/snes2joy Everything is there. Gerbers, 3D files for the enclosure, schematic, firmware, source code, step by step build instructions, etc... I'm just not up to building tens of them. That's boring Even doing a DIY kit with parts and PCB only is a lot of work. Maybe I could do a PCB only run, but everybody can order ten pieces of this PCB for $10 in China and sell the other nine on AtariAge At first I used an original SNES controller. I have two of them, but one already broke, so to save the last original one, I no longer use it. Currently I use a Chinese clone. Takes some time to get the "stiffness" out of it, but it's not too bad.
  6. After play way too much on emulation, with a gamepad, I'm also better at games with a gamepad than with the Atari joystick. Luckily I have SNES2JOY for playing on real hardware
  7. You also might look into replacing the 7805 and 7812 regulators. There are modern equivalents that won't get hot.
  8. TL;DR version: 1. Ultimate Cart and Uno Cart have a modern Micro Controller on board that does most of the work. Mostly programmed in C and/or ARM assembly. 2. SIDE2 and 3 have a direct connection to the storage media and do most things natively on the Atari. Mostly programmed in 6502 assembly. (ignoring the FPGA part ) FJC and Candle like 2 because it is more challenging and closer to the Atari DIY tinkering spirit.
  9. Even if that was the case, I don't think having payed ~$400 US would make you feel like you've been robbed. But if this guy: https://www.pcmag.com/news/unopened-copy-of-super-mario-bros-3-fetches-for-156000-breaking-record happens to have a lot more with the early hand and unopened......
  10. That made me think of this film: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Certified_Copy_(film)
  11. Yes. They are all there and are not that out of place. It could be way worse I recommend heating them a little with a hairdryer. That way, they are less prone to snapping.
  12. And this. Micro-SD adapters are easy to get by. You put them in your device once, and then (re)insert your micro-SD until the adapter is worn out and then you use a new one
  13. Yeah, we need remote controls! IR is not going to work though, with the lid closed
  14. You can always buy a 2x7 angled header and a separate 2x15 angled header. Edit: it won't have the heightening feet, if that's the correct word, but you can always compensate for it by other means.
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