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Small version: - from 28.72 mm to 91.29 mm in X and is 62.57 mm wide - from 36.22 mm to 83.79 mm in Y and is 47.57 mm deep - from 0.00 mm to 5.00 mm in Z and is 5.00 mm high Estimated duration: 25 layers, 0:42:41 Large version: - from 1.22 mm to 118.79 mm in X and is 117.57 mm wide - from 16.22 mm to 103.79 mm in Y and is 87.57 mm deep - from 0.00 mm to 10.00 mm in Z and is 10.00 mm high Estimated duration: 50 layers, 3:30:09 IIRC both took slightly longer, i.e. 55 minutes and 4 hours respectively. Edit: PETG at 225°C, bed at 50°C for 1st layer, room temperature for the rest. 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm steel nozzle, 40% infill.

Space Invaders! Pixelated (cubilated??) it myself. Added four sub-pixels so all pixels (cuboids) are connected and it can stand upright. Cubes are 10x10x10mm. Sub-cubes are 2x2x10mm but not aligned to the 10x10 grid. They share 1x1x10mm with each voxel they touch Space Invader 1 - 10mm.stl

The second post was specifically designed as a stamp, the last two stands are not, but can be used as such as well. Print them high enough, and glue to a piece of wood, so it won't wobble. As for the stamping quality, it's a trade off between looks of the physical stamp and looks of the resulting image on paper. To maximize the latter, I print the business end downwards, to assure a perfectly flat finish. This needs support though, so the non-image part of the stamp side will need some cleaning and look sub-par. If you print with the handle down, the top won't be perfectly flat, even though it looks it is. You need to sand it with up to 400 or 800 grit. Then material. Some people print stamp with PLA, but I found (my) ink not having enough adhesion to the stamp. That changed after I started printing with PETG. Adhesion is fine! I also tried TPU Flex Jupiter (shore hardness 45D), but saw no improvement compared to PETG. And it has many downsides. You have to print very, very slow, or it will clog your extruder. Most bowden extruders are out of the question anyway. Try imagining you have to push a rubber band through a drinking straw... Not gonna work. So print at 15-20mm/s. Minimum nozzle of 0.4mm. Best with layer height at 0.1mm. So overall you'll be printing somewhere like four times slower. And if the result is not flat enough, you can hardly sand it. You get a roughed up rubber look. So, PETG is my recommendation. PLA/PETG/TPU are all non toxic BTW. PLA does smell a bit, but PETG is practically odorless.

Agree. I somehow forgot about this post, even though I posted in the same thread. People implies more than one person. I wonder why they are so hesitant to release what they have? Look at what Jac! did with dis6502. That could happen to RMT, too.

Another 3D model. Just the logo with a stand. Scale to preferred size Atari LOGO with stand - 10mm.stl

Never underestimate Divine Intervention❗Here's my top two 1. Brain Dead - Peter Jackson (1992) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFhs5LCNTFY 2. Pulp Fiction - Quentin Tarantino (1994) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s63pXpSAv6Q

Could you back that up with proof? As far as I know, several people have tried to find the source code. Contacted the family, and so on, but nothing was ever found.

Nice YouTube video ba emkay! Edit: I like this sound a lot more than your pulse width modulation experiments where the pulse width goes outside 30%-70% duty cycle range. It makes me cringe, like a lot of SID tunes that utilize the same effect, although a bit muffled by their filters, but still. Brrhrhrhrhr shiver ? This is one of your best efforts ?

I have not tried it yet, but it looks promising indeed. Best if you have a stencil to apply the solder paste. Can also be done on a regular stove. At first I bought bird sand, but that has a perfume added to it. It stinks already at room temperature. Luckily there was some road working going on in my neighbourhood, so I went outside with a plastic bag and got myself some fresh sand Just dry it inside.

Like with your own youtube only posts, deal with it

The Gimp can do it, too. Image->Mode->Indexed and then export as PNG. If your source has <=256 colours, it's lossless.

Sharp!

Could you post your VBI routine, and how it's calling memcopy? And how do you setup the VBI? It might be that registers (AXYP) are not preserved during the interrupt call.

Here's the ATARI letters standing up. Can be used as a stamp, but was mostly created because of its decorative value Depending on the finishing quality of either the top or bottom of your prints, I added a flipped stl for your convenience. The photo is of a scaled version, printed diagonally on my 12x12 bed. ATARI with stand - 10mm.stl ATARI with stand - flipped - 10mm.stl

Exactly main is just an example of how you call memcopy, i.e. setup src, load dst in AX and size in Y, and call the routine. ($1234 and $5678 are just example source and destination addresses) @StickJock's code is off by one. It copies bytes 1-56 instead of 0-55. But the unroll is correct and faster. You could add the same trick of having set COPYSOURCE (src in my case) by the caller, and COPYDEST (dst) by the callee, to save space everywhere you call this routine.

Do you cross page boundaries? Can page zero be a source or destination location? Edit: do source and destination frequently change? Is self-modifying code allowed or might it need to run from ROM? Undocumented (not illegal) instructions, or should it also work on non-stanard machine with a 65C02 and up? Edit2: tight code, or speed? Edit3: size maximum of 128, 256, or more? There are so many factors Here's a sample: src .equ zplocation+$0 dst .equ zplocation+$2 ; caller sets src ; enter with A lo(dst) and X hi(dst) ; Y is size minus 1(!), maximum of 127 (i.e. 128 bytes) memcopy sta dst stx dst+1 loop lda (src),y sta (dst),y dey bpl loop rts main lda #$34 ; lo($1234) sta src lda #$12 ; hi($1234) sta src+1 lda #$78 ; lo($5678) ldx #$56 ; hi($5678) ldy #55 ; 56 bytes jsr memcopy rts I moved storing of dst to the memcopy routine. That saves space at the caller side. No need to sta dst/stx dst+1 everytime you call memcopy. This could be improved upon a lot, depending on your specific needs

That's what I meant with scale to size. I just modelled it at 1mm stamp and 1mm baseplate, but after that I scale the STL model in my slicer (Slic3r in my case). Scale XY to whatever percentage (larger, smaller), and then scale Z axis to 6mm, i.e. 3mm stamp and 3mm baseplate. Or 8mm, or whatever thickness you want Regarding sanding, in my first post I tried to point out that by printing it stamp side down with support, you don't need sanding I print on glass with 3DLAC (which is basically very sticky hairspray without perfume). Stamp side is smooth as a baby's bottom Edit: sorry, perhaps you meant 1mm extra on top of what I already said. I'm a bit tired, and maybe I misunderstood you.

Here's another one. Logo only. The STL file is 2mm high again, 1mm stamp, 1mm pancake Scale to size in your slicer. The analog prints were done with a 6mm high stamp (total z-size) and a cheap inkpad. To finish your stamp, you can glue a piece of wood on top of it. That way, it's easier to handle and you don't get ink/paint on your fingers Atari Logo Just Logo Stamp.stl

Recently, I have been creating and 3D-printing stamps and stencils for a friend. This one had to be created, too The stamp STL file is 2mm high. 1mm for the stamp and 1mm for the "pancake" it's attached to. The stencil STL file is 1mm high. Import the file in your favorite slicer. Scale XYZ uniformly to your desired size (e.q. 20cmx20cm), then scale Z-axis to size. I recommend at least 6mm for the stamp (3mm stamp/3mm handle) and 0.6mm for the stencil (3 layers of 0.2mm) I printed those at 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, PETG. PLA should work, too, but ink sticks better to PETG. Tried Flex filament (shore hardness 45D), but I saw no improvement. Might try 35D, but for now it's all PETG, which is my favorite fillament Most people I have seen online, creating stamps, recommend to print stamps with the stamp side up. I disagree. Print it with the stamp side down and with support. Sure, after removing the support, it doesn't look as nice as printing the other way around without support, but the business end of your stamp will be FLAT right away, because of the printing bed. No need to sand it. If you insist on printing with stamp side up, use 200 grid sanding paper and slowly work your way up to 800 grid. Two quick examples. Stamp with support and the resulting print. The R and I where not inked enough. Some other samples looked better, but had other parts not inked enough Two-bit inkpad... Stencil and quick fineliner pen example. Better use an ink roller, or a stencil brush. If you print it, please post your prints in this thread I'd love to see them, and the resulting analog prints Atari Logo Stamp.stl Atari Logo Stencil.stl

Ah, misunderstanding. Would be great indeed if Altirra converted a SAP-R recording directly to an LZSS compressed xex including decompressor and player. I think that is correct. What I said five hours ago, the original SAP-R description did not include stereo recording. But I implemented it in atari800 anyway: -pokeyrec Enable Pokey registers recording -pokeyrec-interval <n> Sampling interval in scanlines (default: 312) -pokeyrec-ascii Store ascii values (default: raw) -pokeyrec-file <filename> Specify output filename (default: pokeyrec.dat) -pokeyrec-stereo Record second Pokey, too (default: mono) These options don't result in a SAP-R .sap file right away. You need to add the header by yourself. -pokeyrec-interval was meant to also record 2x, 3x or 4x speed players, and the same for NTSC (262 == 1x), et cetera.

It does. Dmsc's compression tool results in an xex file, which includes the decompressor and player. If I'm not mistaken, Altirra also records stereo SAP-R files, 18 registers per VB.

Oh, if that's your concern, you can just encapsulate your 6502 binary player routine in a normal SAP file. Specify INIT and PLAY in the header and you're good to go. Depending on the player, SKCTL and the rest of Pokey will be emulated properly. Edit: and with asapconv you can convert it to an xex file and replay it on better emulators than the SAP players, or on real hardware.

AFAIK there is no SAP player that supports SAP-R. Altirra can play them and dmsc's SAP-R compressor can read them and turn them in an .xex file. Not other programs are aware of SAP-R yet. When I first added SAP-R recording to atari800, I considered adding SKCTL, but decided against it because it wasn't in the spec. But neither was stero recording, IIRC. Perhaps a header field can be added that specifies how many values there are per line, i.e. 9 or 18 for normal SAP-R, and 10 or 20 for files that need SKCTL.

It looks like the "capture gain" is way too high and everything is washed out. Either the signal is too hot, or it's a problem with the device. Hopefully you can turn the gain down, either in software or with a hardware setting. This reminds me of connecting an N64 to a modern television through composite video. You need to add a 75Ω resistor in series in the cable to not have it look all whitish without much contrast.

Yes, it's from The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. Carolina Eyck is indeed very talented. Could you point us to the ad? I can't find it. Does a theremin for the Atari mean that the pitch and volume antennas are connected to the pot inputs and there's software involved to generate the sound?