Jump to content

_The Doctor__

Members
  • Posts

    15,165
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by _The Doctor__

  1. AtariMax SIO2PC usb devices employ a controller that allows xf551 and similar high speed handshaking schemes that no other devices can do, as a result the USB portion requires that you use virtual com drivers when used with other USB devices, including roll your own ftdi cables etc, so that you are using their usb drivers and not the AtariMax driver.

     

    Standard serial port SIO 2 PC rs232 etc will work as is and you can make your own, use an atarimax, etc

  2. 1 yes

    2 yes

    3 there are three simplest methods depending on the person and what they own

      A) Atarimax Prosystem included with APE

      B) RespeQt using sector copier

      C) SpartaDos X w/ RespeQt and pclink driver.

    either APE or RespeQt will take sector copying to blank .atr images but you needs atx, vapii or pro imaging to do copy protected disks.

     

    linu based machines have their equivalents and builds of RespeQt and Similar or VM's

     

    You will need to read how to do each variant. There is no point to having the forum transcribe the documentation for you.

  3. check the keyboard connector itself, the contact swipes in its' slot, and the leads going into the board are not snapped or broken,  the support chips next provided no components look damaged, cracked or burnt as well as solder looking nice with no flecks laying about shorting things

  4. make sure all chip legs are making contact with socket swipes the legs should be slightly in the direction of the swipes all the way around. Make sure there are no fleks of matter between any pads or traces inbetween sockets or on the mother board anywhere. Check for cracks or corrosion of all solder joints, swap out ROM and Basic chips with a known good Atari. Make sure all chip legs are in each and every socket hole.

    After that it's time to check the support chips and transistors, and for any blown, fat or leaked dried out caps. No cracked or broken components around the chips where folks pry sometimes?

    • Like 1
  5. Apple figured one thing out that Atari kept reversing on, closed systems meant death, the 800 was OPEN... Apple started the MACS closed and made them OPEN later, PC's were always OPEN. with cards slots. Add sound update? not a problem. Add Graphics update? not a problem. Add Ramdisk or persistent memory? Not a problem... closed wedge problem, sealed behind a don't open this sticker.

    They knew this and were going to try the 1090 remedy and ditched it, Same for the ST's... The Mega STE, TT030 were a move back to normalcy, then they wedged and sealed the Falcon... dropped it's 040 and made it an 030 Stupid! That meant you had to buy a new case and fix all that stupid up.

    Hell even laptops were given access doors to upgrade most things. Sealed behind a closed wedge sticker syndrome is the Trammy way.

    The only thing Apple sealed up later were iPods and Phones, and that went to court an lost on 'Right to Fix' grounds. That's why they offer update and battery replacement services today. While high pressure selling you not to fix it and buy new ;)

  6. 3 hours ago, mytek said:

    I attributed the problem to the color trim pot adjust circuit, and specifically a shift in the 5V power that feeds it.

     

    In the 1088XLD and 576NUC+ I used a precision thermally compensated zener diode to supply the color trim pot. And as far as I recall it works very well, with minimal thermal drift.

     

    StableColorTrim.png.1436a626a7d69b594af4712522fbb14a.png

     

    Another method would be to use a high quality stable 5V power supply to feed your Atari - maybe a MeanWell PSU.

    retrofit that into the other Atari's forgot about that one.

  7. 46 minutes ago, E474 said:

    If you have something like a Raspberry Pi, you can make an SIO cable with a 5V <-> 3.3V Logic level shifter board, and 3D print the SIO molex connector (you just need to figure out how to do the crimp connectors, though you can salvage them from old ATX style PC PSUs). Then just use FujiNet-PC or atariserver on the Pi to serve ATR/ATX images. 

    heh, I forgot that one. Thanks for including it. Some people set their servers of all kinds on these

    • Like 1
  8. USB power has to be thoroughly checked, they have been known to be noisy, or not able to supply enough voltage/current (brownout conditions are hard on these chips), they have been shown to pulse power from high to low, some are 'intelligent' and won't adjust output without feedback transistors or handshake communication. Better off with standard power supplies or meanwell power supplies. When USB supplies blow it's a crap shoot as well depending on who made it.

  9. No it does not indicate a chip problem, it takes approx 15 minutes for many older machines to warm up and color to settle. The only things that can be done to lessen such affects are high quality cap and transistors in the video circuit if the swing is too great, as that sometimes corrects degraded output.

    It is perfectly normal and part of the adjustment steps outlined by almost all computers of that era. If your power supply swings or changes too much from cold to 15 twenty minutes or the video transistors vary too much then you can look to touching or shoring that up. But chances are it's just the normal shift that occurs as the components warm up. This happens in the video chips themselves as well and is the nature of the chips. So there is only so much you can do, as outlined. It is normal.

    You can bump the color pot to keep it from being so very bright green at start but not so much as to throw the yellow off when warm.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
×
×
  • Create New...