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_The Doctor__

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Everything posted by _The Doctor__

  1. @Beeblebrox 2 responses as I typed my long winded end detailed post, you may want to re read it now that I am done with it. try to measure from a further away pad with it's trace going to the dodgy pad. I have seen people say it's good measuring from pad to chip pin.. but the break is at the union... so measure from the bus to the chip leg not the pad...
  2. @Beeblebrox The pads and traces look as if the iron is being pushed against the pcb and pad causing them to deform and pull. If you are using flux and touch up solder, make sure to use old lead based solder, newer solders and many silver bearing solders require too much heat for the XE's traces... You are correct, I was thinking XL earlier not XE... You definitely want to verify each connection to the sockets and components at this point as other pad / trace unions look dodgy in the picture. so check GTIA and socket then... check the color pot by turning it and measuring it's voltage as you do, it should be smooth, if there are dropouts or the voltages are out of range, I'd replace it. Generally transistor do not go bad or fail as much more video problems would being evident in display, you can pull it and test it (most dmm's have this capability these days) or just replace it. Other outside chances are a mix up with non PAL chip stranger things happen verify proper CO number for PAL as to resistors, you will never need calculators if you remember this or similar phrases.... as a memory aid. Bad Boys Race Our Young Girls But Violet Generally Wins Gold Silver lack rown ed range ellow reen lue iolet rey hite 1st.1 second.01 place place Single Black line with nothing else is a jumper or zero ohm resistor you can have a sixth band for temperature coefficient ppm/k failure and fire rating and the body of the resistor is normally blue for them Brown 100 ppm/ºC (K) Red 50 ppm/ºC (K) Orange 15 ppm/ºC (K) Yellow 25 ppm/ºC (K) Blue 10 ppm/ºC (K) Violet 5 ppm/ºC (K) these last bits are sometimes used in Atari power supplies etc. this is also why you might find charred remains in an 800 but there were no flames or the color is distorted making the band appear off in color or the body is blueish brown from heat.
  3. I'd say ROM... or ram... if the rom bar turns green before the blanking... ram bad If you don't see green, but red on rom bar ... rom normally bad if It never shows either then it could be rom ram or both
  4. same power supply used on good and bad system? check video color pot voltage doubler circuit... then check delay line check 4050 check pokey check two keyboard decoder chips...
  5. https://www.dropbox.com/s/crk8gcx32zh81ki/latest menu makes etc.zip?dl=0# 8 bit menu disks
  6. but the cool thing is that this process has caused the code made to be allowed tighter... and now this can go forward with some re ordering and expansion. Just when you think it's all that can be done or fixed... boom! you can now do so much more and add what you needed and fixed as well. Nothing is truly wasted, and a great deal was gained and learned.
  7. correct, Ray took over someone else started it off. But I understand what Kyle meant after having read Ray's 'versions of reality' here and there over time.
  8. Trying a different unzip program might help, so that's true. AVG may use another OS or soft-loaded OS as well as a loader that might be helping the real Atari's act more like an emulator in those regards increasing compatibility, I've seen that also happen when using MyBIOS/MyIDE by Mr. Atari ... POST your settings etc. for whatever your using in emu as well as bios settings etc.
  9. Until I get a chance to look at this on real hardware, I'd say tone color and balance are spot on. I wouldn't change a thing. This really pops! Nice job!
  10. Yup just click on either of the profile W squares in my post... and it takes you to him, or click and go to the message and click on him for pm or drop a note in the thread because the pm mailbox is often full and accepts no more messages... ymmv
  11. Doesn't everybody see the world this way @rensoup, is it possible you did the link at ending time index instead of the start?
  12. A thanks to @ClausB, Whose hand in so many projects over the years makes the time on AA worth it.
  13. lmgtfy, ivop style, classic! Thanks man, this made my day.
  14. No one is asking the community to fund this... What purpose does this serve? I wasn't even done with my post and you are quoting away. Breathe. This has also been discussed in threads and forums. I think Curt posted some of it as well. On cyber roach you will find things there for people to see. Though you might have to use the wayback machine to see his 1090 et al Strong arming folks seems to be all the rage these days. I prefer to keep things as they are. The forceful nature and demands are why so many steer clear of this stuff. Just be happy we share what we can remember and know up to a point.
  15. Such reservations are rarely expressed for any other endeavors. How many carts, computers, add-ons, and mini whatever have been built without all of this... How about some of us do like everyone else has done... build the things and share? If something is discovered wrong, we work on fixing it and we enjoy the journey. This is part of the hobby and it's fun. Like so many artifacts that have come up over the years, we have lots to enjoy and discover. Who wouldn't love the 800 left side board to be out there for all to enjoy as well... maybe incorporate that into a 1090 multi I/O card for everyone also. Plenty of threads and sites already covered. The reproduction is a work in progress... just like anything else, you have to expect things may change, just like every other replacement main board, project, or add on. The everyday user isn't running out to build this just yet. No one is selling complete kits or finished products. Can we tinker? If you read I explained the buffer being on the cable connecting nearest the computer. It's name was the Julia FIFO cable at the time, but there were other forms and versions
  16. It was scrapped for a multitude of reasons, losses in market share, in cost reduction we lost the normal PBI and went to an ECI/CART on the XE series... just when PBI devices were gaining some traction, lame excuse from the top... no one has been or will be using the PBI... so SUPRA/ICD/CSS etc. had to come up with creative solutions... look at the pbi to eci adaptor cart cards and the very shape of the black box. A 1090XLE might have standard PBI or ECI/CART slots alongside it's slots of even in between them. Where do people get the thought that it didn't even work? This was moving along to the point that the enclosure was designed, produced, completely assembled and was being used. There are some weird ways of introducing negatives into this thread. Full steam ahead chaps?
  17. YOGI of Jellystone Park... made this compilation of digitunes. It is not a manufactured disk or product. Fun stuff in the BBS days.
  18. much of the specs for the Atari were violated due to cost cutting and folks coming on board thinking that's the same function we'll use this cheaper chip or transistor... this is why you see so much variation in what's in there... lets not also forget manufacturer subbing parts to get the job done. You can mitigate only so much before you have to put in what should have been. That means chips with proper drive or darlington transistors in your video circuits... so I can only say... what came from the factory isn't always 'stock' or correct. Part of the Atari fun is putting things right. So Atari itself put in some boo boo's either by engineers not knowing what they broke, or the problem getting baked in the cake by bean counters and manufacturing.
  19. Julia FIFO buffering cable... The idea being to put the buffer as near the port as possible... buffering at the box was also done. using the proper hardware a benefit as the signals can also be shaped (schmidt triggering) You can see this today on SIO splitter such as lotheriks offering. no reason this can't be extended back into the 1090 project since that's where we were going...
  20. The current size lends itself to developer sized hacked up cards and devices... shrinking stuff down is often realized later in that process. It's all good.
  21. and still doesn't have a proper NTSC fix up... it mostly works...
  22. Yes there is, use high quality double shielded impedance matched cables of shorter length with taroid at both ends. Make sure everything you connect is quality and shielded. The machines themselves should still have their shields. Electrolytic caps tend to get weaker on old stuff so be aware that your' CRT monitors and televisions may start to show noise and retrace lines and will need them replaced etc. Many newer display choices do not contain the filters needed to clean up the signal, in that case you might have to custom make a cable like noted but with an inline resistor and capacitor. Scanning through the forum you will see recent posts about what folks did for their Atari and other video game consoles video cables. Clean power in, clean signal path out, quality cables, quality monitor/TV, taroids. inline impedance/filter if necessary. Not much else to do after that other than replacing electrolytic caps and correcting the impedance resistors in the Atari. All discussed in the forums as well. Hope this helps.
  23. new upgrades can be made and plugged in, not just what we see from back then either... How about a parallel bus Fujinet or SIDE solution leaving the cartridge port open? Or maybe a PBI ROM SIM that let's you update in real time like back in the day... PC to the RAM/SIM Bank... instant Atari bliss... Coprocessing? or maybe External sound and video... again leaving the cartridge port open so the carts can use the extensions.... or how about a PBI super CART Just because we can? The parallel bus is just plain better for wifi/lan/etc solutions... Dragon cart proves that for online gaming
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