Jump to content

eatenbygrues

Members
  • Content Count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About eatenbygrues

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  1. Ok so I managed to get it working again, but I think we will eventually need to source some replacement contacts for these things because they aren't going to last forever. What ended up working for me: I removed the black cover of each switch and sort of 'massaged' them back into the correct position. I left it like this for about 2 days, and the rubber button contacts took their original shape. I'm not sure if it was moisture or what the deal was exactly. I also noticed that the solder joints on a few of them had become broken, so I had to reflow those joints. So all four buttons work, but with the 'bottom' two I get a nice tactile response. The top two buttons work fine in that they register presses but they don't 'bounce back' like you would expect.
  2. So I recently acquired a roller controller in pretty bad shape (it was filthy), anyway I got it all cleaned up and amazingly the optical sensors still work fine, the buttons on the other hand do not. I managed to open the buttons (you can remove the black piece by snapping it out of the top) and found that all they are is little grey rubber contact buttons (like you would find in say a SNES controller). It looked like the rubber domes had become worn/brittle with time, two of them were torn. 1. Does anyone know of a replacement for the button contacts? (the grey rubber piece) 2. Does anyone know of a complete replacement for the switch? (as in de-soldering the old switch, putting a new one in). (I can post pictures if needed)
  3. Do you offer the mod as a DIY kit, or is it only as a service for the time being? EDIT: Actually disregard that, I see in that thread that it's only a service at this time.
  4. Ah thanks for the tip. I'm already using de-oxit actually, it's great stuff. So I pretty sure my switch is no longer the issue and I'm running into kind of a strange issue. There are certain titles that have to be 'rebooted' before they work correctly. For instance I'll put the game in, and I'll get either The copyright screen with noise (Pepper II, Congo Bongo, Spyhunter) static (as if it isn't powered on at all) (Frenzy, Space Fury) simply hitting the reset button will fix it. I don't even have to touch the power switch. As soon as I hit the reboot button (or cycle the power switch again) it works fine. I can keep reseting it and it keeps working, it's just when I first insert the cartridge.The vast bulk of my games work with no issues. I have cleaned these games fairly thoroughly and yet I keep running into this. Any ideas? - thanks.
  5. Ah ignore my previous post. I just figured out my issue. I didn't fasten the top/bottom halves of the switch together properly. I desoldered, fixed the switch (added a bit more grease), re-soldered it down and now everything works.
  6. Using that pdf posted earlier in the thread I went ahead and refurbished my power switch. It made a substantial difference in the graphical quality (no more weird issues) that being said I did mess up my first try putting it back together (I didn't solder down one of the large mounting brackets properly and so when you pushed on the switch it lifted up and you wouldn't get power at all). Granted I'm still occasionally getting some weirdness like every 15 or so tries such as Spyhunter making noises at the title screen (often times a reboot will fix this). Is that kind of stuff just unavoidable with the coleco (I mean it is 35 years old) or did I mess something up with the refurbish? (maybe it needs more grease?). So some quick questions: When cleaning the internals is it ok to use something like brasso? I found that it cleans copper contacts very well, though it is abrasive. How tightly should the top of the case be pushing down on the switch? Should it move freely or is it better to have some resistance? I know some people like to pad the switch with paper towels. Does that sort of thing still help even after refurbishing the switch? Anyway, thanks for the help!
  7. I apologize if this is a redundant thread, but I was having trouble finding information on this. While I think the f18a mod is cool I mostly use an XRGB framemeister for upscaling older systems and currently don't have any displays that accept VGA input (it's sadly getting phased out of modern televisions). I know there are now 2600 and NES RGB mods but I wasn't sure if there was a Colecovision one in the works as well. Does the F18A mod support RGB Scart or is it VGA only? Are there any plans to produce an RGB scart version? Is Yurkie still working on his RGB mod? I saw the youtube video which is from 2015. I realize that translating VGA to RGB Scart isn't that difficult but the main issue is 'sync'. VGA has multiple sync lines while RGB scart has one and I imagine that could cause issues. If there is a good/reliable method to translate a VGA signal into an RGB scart one I would be interested in hearing about it. Thanks. EDIT: Of course I find this (UMSA ultimate scart adapter) right after posting this thread. Does anyone have any experience using this in combination with the F18A mod?
  8. That is a great guide! I didn't realize it was possible to disassemble the switch without destroying it.
  9. I think everyone is well aware how finicky the power switches on the coleco can be, and that there are numerous ways to address the problem. I have seen the popular mod where people replace the switch with a 'rocker' type switch, but I feel like there has to be a DPDT slide switch that is closer to what the Coleco originally used. Just some cursory searches on ebay I have found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GC-Electronics-35-222-BU-DPDT-Slide-Switch-ON-ON-Double-Pole-Double-Thr-10-pcs-/112231680929?hash=item1a21878ba1:g:nboAAOSwImRYSsCJ Or a more general search: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xdpdt+slide+switch.TRS0&_nkw=dpdt+slide+switch&_sacat=0 Has anyone had any luck with sourcing something like this (either through ebay or aliexpress)?
  10. Virtua Fighter on the 32X is a lot better than Virtua Fighter on the Saturn. (not counting Remix or VF2). There are a number of genesis games that are better than their SNES counterparts (Thunder Force III > Thunder Spirits) but I don't think the SNES is necessarily technically superior to the Genesis in all respects. While the SNES had more memory and a much larger color palette (amongst other things) the Genesis was indeed quite a bit faster. EDIT: Oh yeah same for Virtua Racing. The 32X port is a lot better, but I believe thats because AM2 did the port themselves while the Saturn version was done by a third party.
  11. In regards to the NES top loader issue. As I understood it the main problem with the top loader is #1 The american model only has RF out, no RCA connectors and #2 it suffers from a lot of RF interference due to poor shielding so you get a lot of vertical bands on the screen. I have both a toaster and a modded top loader and even with the video mod you still get the RF interference on the top loader. I think the famicom AV might look a bit better than it's american counterpart though. It would be interesting to see a comparison between these three models as well as a RGB modded toaster. Speaking of the gameboy variants I know the Gameboy Color occasionally has some weird non-graphical side-effects on original gameboy games. There is a 'bug' where it will actually change certain behaviors in Final Fantasy Legend such as causing mutants to gain abilities faster, or to randomly lose half their spell uses. I haven't seen this personally but there is a list of stuff over on gamefaqs.
  12. Personally I have been using Brasso for years. It does wonders for carts and really any sort of copper contact (such as the one between the sega genesis and the sega-cd). You can usually find it at your local grocery store for about a $1. I know there is some concern about it eating away at the contacts, but honestly the contacts are so thick on older cart systems it really isn't an issue. Plus how many times are you going to need to clean it? I have used it on my entire NES collection and every cart will start first try with no fiddling now. One thing to keep in mind is to make sure you wipe the contacts off after using it as it tends to leave a residue.
  13. So I know the opening theme is the rondeau from 'Abdelazer' by Henry Purcell, and that the in-game music is Schubert's 8th Symphony but does anyone know what the fanfare music that plays when you get 'powered up' is? I have heard it before outside of the game and I know it's another classical work but I have no idea what it is and it's making me crazy. Hopefully we have some Classical / Intellivsion fans in here.
  14. Very cool. I'm trying to build this myself as I had an old sears video arcade II controller lying around but I can't figure out how to remove the stick from the top part of the 5200 controller. I have taken the top part off, but how do you remove the rubber boot and the stick itself?
  15. Since it has direct pass-through for playing 2600 and 7800 titles have you guys made the cart slot bigger so that it plays weirdly shaped 2600 carts like Imagic games more easily than the vanilla 7800 slot?
×
×
  • Create New...