SnapCraft

Avoiding the obvious-- #2 Donkey Kong Jr. for Colecovision (Donkey Kong, of course, is #1) I could make a small fort with the amount I have. Any homebrewer's out there who need some shells??? #1 Auto Racing for Intellivision (I've actually seen more of this than the packed in Las Vegas Poker. Did people trash these?) I am so sick of Auto Racing for the Intellivision! And following the rules given... #4 Fishing Derby for Atari 2600 (Pac-Man #1, 'Stroids #2, Combat #3) Stating the obvious... Parsec (TI-99) KC Munchkin (Odyssey2) Sorry, one last thing. You ever notice how often you run into a packaged game (Star Raiders [2600], Turbo [Colecovision], etc) solo? It's like the game survived, but not the accessory. It's like, what am I supposed to do with this?

Classic gaming and a CRT, Like beer and pizza.

Yes. My point is that the plastic housing has the "Spectravideo" logo molded on so it is a different mold than the quickshot. BTW another Atari clone made in ROC part number EJ8-19 (note the silver marking vs atari orange or yellow) I prefer...

OK, woah, you lost me. I do appreciate the help, but can you give me a picture (and close up) of the area your talking about? I checked the Field Manual, and I couldn't find the TIA chip. Two things: I'm glad I was probably right in my thinking, and #2, I don't know if I want to start altering the inside. As a collector I want to keep it as pure as possible. It's probably not the RF metal box, eh? That would be trouble. If it is the way it is, so be it. However, I've heard on these boards that the Heavy Sixer is supposed to be the standard of what all other 2600's aspire to be. Anybody else have this over-saturation "problem"? Thanks

Sure, I'll give this a shot... Heavy Sixer ...compared to my 4 Switch Woody And even with rotating that white dial (lower hole in the metal cartridge plate), I can't get a match. Thanks,

OK here's my situation. I have a over-saturated picture (like the color on the TV was turned all the way up). I've seen tons of "fuzzy" threads, but I don't think this is the same thing. I have adjusted the white wheel (just changes the colors, doesn't tame the brightness). I guess I need to get the plastic hex tool from Radio Shack (?) to adjust the red/pink hex dial right underneath the cartridge slot. I have tried a different RF cable and I'm using the updated RF connection to the TV. So some questions: (1) Will adjusting the red/pink hex dial help it or is that just for sound? (2) There is a hole in the RF metal box inside the 2600, should that be adjusted? I'm not a novice, but I'm nowhere near the level some of you are talking. So keep it fairly simple please. Oh yeah, I'd rather not (and can not) go composite or S-Video -- keep it authentic. Thanks...

I have some non-functioning buttons and I'd like to get in there. I've searched everywhere on the net to find help to do this. After unscrewing the two bottom and two side screws, how do you take it apart??? I remember this same feeling when I tried to first take my Colecovision itself apart--a lot of brute force. Scary. Any tips? Do you take the front sword-like shielding off first? Thanks!

Humm..."complete in box" really limits yourself. Haven't you guys noticed this? Intellivision and Vectrex are easy to collect "in box" because the box itself was a storage device. Colecovision, Atari 2600, and NES--not so. I remember trying not to destroy the Colecovision boxes when I got the games new because I new I'd want to keep them for later. I went through the trouble of dismantling the top and bottom so I could store them flat (why keep the cart in the ripped open box? The rip made them ugly.) Your limiting yourself with rule #2. I kept that rule for Intelli and Vectrex, but I've modded it for Coleco. Rule #2 (Coleco): Game must be complete with overlays and instructions (ie. Mousetrap). But I understand--the collection needs to be perfect.