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monzamess

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About monzamess

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  1. That looks like a standard 520STfm: http://www.computinghistory.org.uk/det/2578/Atari-520-STFM/ It replaced the original 520ST. It was my first ST BITD. By my understanding it was basically a 1040ST with half the RAM, single-sided drive, and with the RF modulator. I had mine upgraded to 1MB and double-sided drive. The 520STfm is pretty common and I don't think it would be too unusual to encounter an upgraded example "in the wild" making the situation even more confusing.
  2. Thank you for following up -- still kinda sucks but I'm less likely to think it's something I messed up.
  3. I performed the composite sync mod to my 1040STF today. My board looks just like rainwarrior's above. I am using the Cool Novelties SCART cable and this "Mcbazel" version of the HD converter box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUNIVRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I verified that this setup doesn't work without the sync mod, and that it does work with it. I am using a Dell 2001FP monitor which DOES actually sync to the ST using a pass-through ST->VGA cable, however, there are jailbars, the picture in medium res is especially ugly, and of course this monitor requires adjusting the screen position EVERY time the computer resets. I thought I would give this other route a try. The positive is that the picture going through this setup (ST -> SCART cable -> box -> HDMI-DVI-cable -> 2001FP) looks better than the straight VGA route. However, it's noticeably dimmer than the VGA route even after maxing out the brightness on the monitor. This happens with my Coco3 using the same HD box and monitor as well (brighter uglier picture with VGA, better but dimmer picture with DVI). I appreciate any thoughts on why the picture might be dim; I guess the common elements are the monitor and the HD box so maybe it has nothing to do with the computers or SCART cables. At least now I can try other HD monitors and maybe relegate the 2001FP back to other duties.
  4. I never tried the Apple adapter. I am now using this CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 power adapter (plus inline power switch) that I had on-hand for my Pi 3: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Listed/dp/B00MARDJZ4 NOTE: I actually bought this "NorthPada" Raspberry Pi 3 adapter just for the ASCI2STM: https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU but it doesn't work with the ASCI2STM. It works fine with my Pi so I just swapped this with the CanaKit.
  5. Bought a Mac Mini for a great price. @Dopy25 shipped quickly and safely.
  6. Thanks for the tip! I have a similarly-specced Samsung adapter that is flaky in this usage. Only a computer has provided reliable power for it and that's not practical for my setup. I'll try the Apple adapter.
  7. Understand about the lighting issues but I have what I have, and that's not a photography studio. Since I had the 1040ST open to fit a Gotek, I took a picture of the inside of the bottom case compared to the outside of the top case. Often, the inside of a computer case can avoid the yellowing effects over time (but not always). In this picture you can see the inside color is quite similar to the outside color which is also quite similar to the color of the mouse, which didn't originally come with this computer. So maybe this 1040ST started life a different shade of gray than the 130XE, maybe not.
  8. How much variation (if any) was there in the "Atari Gray" color from the factory? Pictured below, the 130XE looks nicer than the 1040ST, but I am not convinced any further de-yellowing efforts will make the 1040ST look like the 130XE (look at the difference in the function keys especially). It makes me wonder if the STs (or some subset of computers) just had a different variation of gray from the factory? Or am I trying to rationalize away actual yellowing on the ST? (note: this is the same 130XE pictured above in https://atariage.com/forums/topic/106810-perfect-atari-stxe-color-match/?do=findComment&comment=3883077 )
  9. And here it is after a bath and "sunbrighting" the keyboard for 3 days. Not perfect but good enough.
  10. I (re)discovered this thread right after I ordered an UNtested ATari ST from Marlin / The Brewing Academy so I was a bit concerned about what would show up. My order arrived a few days ago and what I actually got was a pleasant surprise. The 1040ST has some yellowing on the keyboard and the spacebar key post is broken so I'll have to fix that. Otherwise, it looks good; it works with my ST->VGA adapter; it goes into TOS after giving up on the floppy drive (I haven't tested the drive yet) and basic desktop operations work; it works with my ST mouse; and all the keys make a key click "beep" when pressed except the numpad Enter key. Certainly compared to eBay prices (and those purchases are also their own crapshoot) I am happy with this purchase.
  11. The original ad is old enough to drive. I wonder what is the oldest necro-bump that actually worked out for the bump-er?
  12. Looking for a working Timex/Sinclair 2068 in the US, preferably with power supply and in good cosmetic shape.
  13. Bought a small pile of Amiga stuff. Shipped quickly and carefully and arrived in the condition advertised. Thanks!
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