nvrmndtheruins

I know I have at least 1 HDG model 1 (mine ), but I do believe I have 2 or 3 of 'em in the for sale pile. I will check and post up pictures when I get home.

On Ebay now eBay Seller: readysetriot

PM'ed!

WOW! I wish I wasn't broke right now! Hopefully you're still selling in a couple weeks, I'd love some more genesis and 2600 games

I'm hooking it up through the coax using the same adapter I use for my Atari 2600. Tried multiple channels 2,3,4 only works on 3 and only a black screen

Got the new buffer chip today, I had installed the socket over the weekend. It worked great!! Thanks a lot for all your help!

a static click when I turn it on or off, but nothing else so far

Just got one of these bad boys, But all I can get out of it is a black screen... I opened her up and everything looks okay, nothing seems cooked or loose. I'm hooking it to my t.v. through an Atari 2600 adapter (which works fine for that). Anyone experience this before?

All set for now

Just got my first 2600. Only have combat so far. So i'm basically looking for some common carts and a couple paddle controllers (My 2600 didn't come with any ) Lemme know what you have and how much you want, shipping would be within the US and I can pay via paypal

I've personally made this repair on the buffer chip multiple times to solve the "continuous fire" problem on player 1. I recommend obtaining a 16-pin IC socket part from Radio Shack, and soldering THAT in, after the annoying work of un-soldering the defective IC (lots of solder wick and flux!), and THEN slot in your new buffer to that nice socket! Radio Shack 16-Pin Retention Contact (link) IC sockets are fragile with respect to heat, and the process of soldering the 16 different pins will take some time, and add heat to the poor IC, potentially damaging it. Also, this makes the repair possible again in the future. It is typically caused by static electricity coming in from the controller port - - you might want to look into the "zener diode" repair for sixers that helps to reduce static effect, and of course the "static strips" over the reset/power/select switches are helpful, too. I will upload pictures later, to help illustrate. Cheers! -a2a Here are some images of my standard replacement method for the hex buffer IC. And, yes. You could just bypass it with two blobs of solder. If you wanted to. I do custom restorations and offer my customers "refurbished to factory spec - - or better!" quality, so I tend to do things the longer way. All these images came from a heavy sixer that I refurbed a month or so ago. Got it and a few original CX-10 joysticks in an original 1977 box for . . . very inexpensive. But, then I threw $60 of parts and time into it - - switches, new ICs, zener diodes, etc.! The unit had a note on it . . . Which read . . . Hmmm, I know what THAT is! So, the process - - The Radio Shack 16-Pin IC socket Clean, de-soldered area after faulty hex buffer has been removed Putting in the socket Finished soldering in the Radio Shack IC socket - - solder from the back, don't be afraid of using flux! Up-close solder job view: Socket, ready to receive the new, fresh hex buffer you bought - - you noted which way the old one was positioned before you de-soldered it, didn't you? (look for the "notch" on the IC as a marker!) Hope that helps, it's not too hard, and it brings it back up to perfect factory spec! -a2a BONUS PHOTOS: Here's a zener diode near the joystick port on a six-switcher after replacement, but before trimming the tails And, of course, the static strips (here just being installed on a 4-switch model)! HAVE FUN! I think this is exactly what i'm going to do just as soon as the weekend comes. I'm the same way I always prefer to fix things back to, or as close to original as I possibly can. On a side note I also just won an Ultra Pong console on ebay thats "not powering on" i'm hoping again its just a cold soldier issue, but for $2 I just couldn't pass it up, I always worry that the seller will toss it in the trash if things like that don't sell.

Looked into the buffer chip and seems to be the cause. Gonna order a replacement and hopefully i'll be playing and buying up games buy the weekend. Thanks a lot for your help

yes, its a light 6. The buffer chip could cause just the player one to act up?

I just bought my first Atari 2600 recently after playing the emulators and rom for many years. I get it home and hook it all up and power it on, and its all beautiful. I then discover the Game Reset switch does not work. After I fixed the old soldier points up it works like a charm. But no matter what I do player one's button triggers non-stop (like rapid fire), even with no joystick plugged into it. I have cleaned the console and inspected the boards very carefully for any shorts or blown parts or cold soldier points, nothing. I feel lost being that i'm just getting an Atari now, having grown up on NES and genesis, and having gone to college for computer technology. If anybody has any idea's on what the problem may be or maybe has had a problem like this, any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I feel horrible for having to ask for help as my first post, I would much rather be rejoicing.