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Everything posted by metarog

  1. I don't have any Homebrews but I do have a complete collection of original games. The must haves in my opinion are KC Munchkin, UFO, Attack of the Timelord and Smithereens. The next tier would be Turtles, Freedom Fighters and Pick Axe Pete. Another option is getting a multicart like the 233 in 1. However, there is a long wait as I put my order in almost 5 months ago and still haven't gotten invoiced.
  2. The Voice goes draped over those vents in the back. Anywhere lower than that slope will be fine. There is plenty of empty space on the back left for ports.
  3. Ok great... just wanted to be sure your chips were good. Be careful when removing the pin connector as those rivets on the ends are a bear to get out.
  4. What comes up when you power on the O2? Is it a black screen or a grayish one with random characters? If black then you have a bad chip or other component on the board. I have a couple dead boards so I can send you a cart connector or the whole board (with bad chips)for cheap. That is assuming you are sure it is the connector.
  5. That looks great Forrest! I was thinking of putting it somewhere else since it is hard to see with the Voice module on. Perhaps somewhere to the left of the keyboard... I'll probably give it a shot after the holidays.
  6. Well since recent topics have talked about the a/v and joystick mods I figured why not talk about the Power LED mod and round out the mod trinity. This is very easy to do and just requires an LED, some wire, solder and soldering iron. I found a bunch of red copper wire in the garage and took the LEDs out of some dead PS2 controllers. I then soldered the end of the LEDs to the wire and the other end to the two points you see in the pics. I just tested voltage on my multimeter until I got 5volts with the console on and it worked great. I then snaked the LED to the back grill and taped it down so you can see it from above. You can drill a hole and have the LED more prominent but I didn't want to mutilate the console. I have tested this for several hours and see no issues. Let me know if you did one differently.
  7. Great video! You have almost as many Homebrews as official releases. I had no idea there were some many. I'll definitely subscribe to your channel as I love seeing O2 videos. Thanks again for sharing this.
  8. An NES power supply shouldn't be a problem since the voltage regulator in the O2 converts power to DC anyway. The original O2 power supplies are all AC and then converted to around 5 volts DC so there should be no downside to using it.
  9. Looking forward to the video... if you can tell us what your last few games were and how you got the harder to find games. It is always interesting to hear about those tougher acquisitions.
  10. I've got 1 white and 2 blue PSone controllers as seen in the pic. PM me if interested.
  11. This site should help you out... http://www.ozyr.com/o2/o2europ.html They also have lists for American and Brazilian games so you should be able to cross reference a comparative list.
  12. Ha ha... I didn't even consider that but you are right!
  13. I finally got around to painting my test console that had a really scratched up and faded silver cover. This was a cheap paint job with a couple cans of flat black I bought at a garage sale. It didn't come out perfect but it is a lot better than it was. I also painted the Action buttons on the controllers and put in an LED to the right of the power switch. It doesn't look too bright in the pics but it looks alright in person. Let me know what you think. Anybody else do any paint jobs lately?
  14. The same thing happened with the games... the later reissues are all by Phillips. Heck, even the power adapters went from Magnavox to Odyssey 2 logos.
  15. Wow... congrats. That box, game and inserts all look official.
  16. You probably have model BC7600 GY02 with the raised logo, rough keyboard, standard RF cable,barrel type power adapter and black attached controllers. Look under the console and there might be a small sticker with that code on it. I do believe these were later releases (1983 or so) and if you open up the console there is usually a date stamped on the inside of the bottom cover. You also have a later box type that was made when Phillips had a more direct hand in the Odyssey here in the U. S. There are actually 8 or 9 different models (I have 3) but all play US Odyssey games the same as far as I can tell. Welcome to the O2 club and post some pics of what you have if you can.
  17. Well, in the past few months a few AA members got there O2s working correctly because they were missing some parts. I happened to have several O2s that are dead for one reason or another so I am offering up my spare parts to whoever needs them. I have 4 O2s available for parts that I will send for a couple of dollars plus shipping as they are just taking up space at this point and it felt good to have 2 O2s up and running due to my "Organ Donors". So if you need anything just pm me or post on here what you need and I'll see what I can do. The only thing not included in this offer are power supplies, switchboxes, socketed chips and whole consoles (although I do have some working ones if you want to buy). Pretty much anything else is game from screws, labels, dead boards, keyboards, top and bottom covers, controller parts, RF boxes, etc. Here is a pick of just some of the stuff I have...
  18. We'll Hallelujah!!! So happy you got this going. I assume it was the chips I sent you? So glad to have another O2 in circulation. Yahoooo!
  19. Check your Messenger... I have a couple options for you.
  20. Your very welcome... good to have another o2 back in business.
  21. My bad O2 just gets a black screen no matter what I do. It could be a power issue somewhere so I have to check the whole power rail and see if there are any issues. Not a high priority since I have several working models when I get the itch to play. BTW, I actually have 3 currently non working O2s, 2 CIB perfectly working ones, a test console that works but has connector issues sometimes although not since I moved the pins in and I have several others working models I am going to AV mod and sell on Feebay to fund my O2 collecting. I also did confirm that I have working extras of the two socketed chips just in case you need them.
  22. Bummer... I'm sure you have done this but make sure those contact pins are clean. Spray alcohol or contact cleaner and use an old toothbrush on them then get an old credit card and wrap some cloth around it and push it in and out. Also make sure all the back pins and all corner pins are contacting on the game carts. The middle front pins don't seem to be used in most games. You can try and rock the game a little towards you when you turn on the O2 and see if that helps. If you get no results let me know and I'll see if any of my dead O2s have good socketed chips. I can then send them to you and you can give that a try.
  23. Danboris has a point... It is easier and safer to just replace the bad pins than to replace the whole connector. Check continuity on every pin and only replace if not conducting or deformed. I sent you the whole connector but it is very difficult to remove and pads could be damaged in the process to say nothing of the lower pins (two broke while I was desoldering them). It shouldn't be too difficult to extract pins from the connector and you have more than a dozen to choose from. You just have to be careful not to deform the top pins too much but otherwise this should solve the connector issue. I hope to see a pic of KC Munchkin playing on your O2 real soon!
  24. Wow, that looks great. I am going to try this myself eventually but I think I will be going all black. Thanks again for all the nice tips too.
  25. Okay, two things here that might give you hope... One of mine was doing the same thing and I moved the pins in the cart connector a little toward the center by wedging a tiny eyeglass screwdriver behind each pin and pushing very carefully. Lo and behold now all games load just fine. So that might be your issue as well. Secondly, if you can't repair the cart connector let me know and I will try to desolder one from my dead board. I will check continuity first so I'm sure it is not broken. I can then send it to you for shipping cost which should be 2 dollars or so or just send me an old video game you dont want. I just sent another AA member a keyboard from the same dead unit.
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