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boxpressed

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Posts posted by boxpressed


  1. Apologies if this has been brought up in another thread, but I just got one of these and want to use it with my 7800, among other consoles. I realize that there won't be two-button functionality.

     

    Looking for some peace of mind that it is safe to use with the 7800 from folks who have done so for a while. Thanks!


  2. 1 hour ago, christo930 said:

    What games is it good for?  Seems like it would probably be useful for games like Star Gate/Defender II that needs buttons and directions off of the 2nd controller.  But it is hard to see how it is useful as a primary controller.  What games do you like with it?

    I was using it with Asteroids because I had forgotten which bin I had stashed my Starplex in. I bought it mostly as a collectible. It worked pretty well with Beamrider.

    • Like 1

  3. 3 hours ago, sramirez2008 said:

    Soo much to like about this pic.👍
     

    1. Cuttle Cart

    2. Video Monitor

    3. Lift that the VM is sitting on

    4. Custom controller 

     

    Oh yeah...the 7800. The most necessary item.

    Thank you for noticing the hydraulic lift. The PVM rolls around like butter on it. The controller is a KY Enterprises Fingertip Controller that was a DIY back in the day.

    IMG_1084(1).JPEG

    • Like 1

  4. 36 minutes ago, Keatah said:

    Wear and tear caused by plugging and unplugging things. Contacts rotating and jiggling. If kept in a box, nothing is moving. Nothing is connected-disconnected-reconnected over and over. I'm certain that was the OP's goal, to reduce that activity. Keeping everything immobile in a box would certainly accomplish that.

     

    Torque and weight are not likely concerns. But I'd say the daily contact wear can be.

     

    My favorite and most effective & practical solution is a little bit of dielectric silicone grease on metal-metal moving contacts. This prevents oxidation and is always good practice. Leave it at that. YMMV.

    I know, but why not keep all the connections in place while the console is in the box? There would be no plugging and unplugging from the console at all. You carefully lift the console out of the box, connections in place, and put it on the floor or a shelf.

     

    And wearing out the prongs on the AC adapter? Or breaking a connection in the wire itself because the wire bends the wrong way? Man, if the console is really that fragile a box isn't going to help. I'm going to bow out here because I'm beginning to realize that the need to take these steps this isn't about the console at all.

    • Like 1

  5. 31 minutes ago, Keatah said:

    The OP wants to protect a 7800 from daily wear & tear by keeping it semi-permanently set up in a plastic box. In addition to that he wants to reduce/eliminate wear & tear on plug-in connectors like the power jack & plug, AC adapter wall prongs. Maybe even cut back on wire flexing too. Things like that.

     

    Considering this stuff is 35+ years old; it's just another precaution against failure. There are many ways to go about it. And no one should denounce attempts at finding a solution or someone's communication style. Believe it or not it is a learnable skill.

    But I don't understand how keeping it in a box will reduce wear and tear on the connectors. If you hold the console in one hand and the AC adapter in another, is the weight of six inches of the cord going to produce enough torque to KO your 7800? This is a serious question--not trying to troll.


  6. 2 hours ago, Bill Loguidice said:

    As someone who has a few dozen systems now and used to have hundreds more, I'd say most vintage computers with a decent lifespan and lots of software can be equally fun to collect for. I certainly agree that an Apple II more than qualifies because it was around for over a decade and has countless hardware and software in all types of formats and packaging. Same goes for C-64, Atari 8-bit, CoCo, TRS-80, PC DOS (and Tandy/PCjr), TI-99/4a, etc. It seems like there's always something new or obscure to discover with these platforms.

     

    Lesser systems (lesser in terms of lifespan or commercial software libraries), like the Mattel Aquarius, Coleco Adam, Spectravideo (pre-MSX), etc., can also be fun to collect for, but there's generally less available content or a higher difficulty in getting more things. With that said, fun is relative and I guess it really depends upon what you're most passionate about.

    Bill, a little off-topic, but have you written anything about what the hobby (and life in general) is like after you sold most of your collection? It would be a welcome read.

    • Thanks 1

  7. 1 hour ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    I'm totally lost here. What is the op stating and trying to do exactly?

     

    You can still get a barrel Jack added without case modification and still have a stock console. Pm for info on that if interested but otherwise I'm confused on what is being said here exactly?

     

    Yes, it's almost like they are speaking a language that only the two of them understand. 

    • Like 5

  8. For me, it's 486 to Pentium 3 era PCs, a roughly 12-year period. Mostly hardware, and then mostly sound and video cards. The ISA sound cards are most interesting to me because there was so much difference across them that they capture the range of innovation and imagination of the period for me. I have about 70 ISA sound cards (not all unique).

     

    Most had to be Sound Blaster compatible, but some were good at the FM synth implementation and others weren't. But it is the variety of wavetable synths that makes these cards collectible to me. Video cards may make playing Doom a little faster or slower, but sound cards really change the experience, almost like the feeling you get playing a console game on different platforms.

    • Thanks 1

  9. 2 hours ago, Leatherrebel5150 said:

    They have not done anything to fix the drift issue on new joycons as far as anyone knows. They all have the same likelihood of developing the issue

    Thanks. I ended up buying a new set anyway and will be sure to keep my receipt and even the original packaging.


  10. Some examples I keep may be exceptions to the rules above.

     

    For example, I have gatefold versions of Burgertime and Mission X, but I wonder whether they came out after their non-gatefold versions. Same goes for Buzz Bombers, but I don’t have a gatefold version of that title. I think I’ll hang onto both variants of these Mattel titles bc there aren’t a lot of them. I hope.


  11. Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm glad to know that there are USA versions of all the KC titles. It turns out that I have only four USA KC titles sealed.

     

    It'll be calming to focus on getting the rest of those rather than chasing every sealed variant of every title as I used to do. I have about 120 sealed variants that "lose" out to a "keeper" using the criteria above (some doubles), so this is a serious streamlining of the collection.

     

    I think I'm going to have to not use "older" as a criterion because these are all sealed and I can't know if a tray is included or not. I wouldn't even trust weighing the box. I'm just going to go with the USA versions if I can.

    • Like 1

  12. It's been several years since I actively collected sealed Intellivision games, and it's time to recover some space by getting rid of variants. I'd like to know what you would keep when given a choice of variants.

     

    I basically want a "original" sealed US collection (as much as possible). I don't have any sealed FCTVVO games, so the collection won't be THAT original. But basically an "original" over "variant" collection. The problem is distinguishing what is "original" and what is a "variant."

     

    Here are the criteria:

     

    1. If there is a Mattel version of the game, I will keep it and get rid of the Intellivision Inc. version (even if the titles are different)

    2. If there is a box that says "Keyboard Component" in the lower right, I will get rid of the ones that don't mention it

    3. If there is a cartridge "Made in the USA" Mattel version, I will keep it and get rid of the HK, Singapore, Taiwan, and Various origins

    4. If there is a gatefold version of the game, I will get rid of the non-gatefold versions

     

    I know it's not perfect, but does this seem like a good set of criteria to go by?

     

    One problem that arises has to do with the "Made in Hong Kong" box that mentions the Keyboard Component and a "Made in the USA" that does NOT mention the Keyboard Component. I'm keeping the former in this case.

     

    When there is a "Made in Hong Kong" game that mentions the Keyboard Component, was there always a "Made in USA" counterpart that also mentioned the Keyboard Component? So far, I've come across several KC titles that I don't have the USA version of. These are all sealed games, so it could be just that it exists and I haven't run across a sealed version.

     

    Thanks for your help!

    • Like 1
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