Jump to content

DrVenkman

+AtariAge Subscriber
  • Content Count

    4,966
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

DrVenkman last won the day on July 7

DrVenkman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,412 Excellent

4 Followers

About DrVenkman

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Back off, man! I'm a scientist.
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KMBT
  • Interests
    "I love the smell of flux in the morning. Smells like ... continuity!"
  • Currently Playing
    Rikki & Vikki
  • Playing Next
    Donkey Kong PK, Galaga 2600

Recent Profile Visitors

13,681 profile views
  1. A few of us beg to differ. And after all, that’s the subject of this very thread so ...
  2. Yep, that's perfectly in the "A-OK" range - you should get single-digit lows and 200+ highs. It can vary from console to console and controller to controller. The biggest variable - we have found after building well over 50 of them now! - is the digital potentiometer chip, the MCP42100. Two brand new chips pulled from side-by-side in the same manufacturer's shipping tube and inserted into the same controller, tested on the very same 5200, can easily have a variability to them of up to 5 - 8 points. That's not usually a problem so long as it's not greater than that on either axis. But as I've posted before up-thread, we've had a surprisingly high rate of out-of-spec chips (purchased from Mouser for this current run, so not "eBay specials"). Over half a dozen have tested low on at least one channel, sometimes both channels, enough that they are unusable in these controllers. There is also some variability in the thumbsticks - they're only 10K ohms range, and there's a variability to the resistance at their center point as well as at the extremes of each axis. In this case, we haven't seen enough variability for it to be a problem though - every issue we've run into building these controllers has come down to the digital pot chips.
  3. Yep, that's definitely not correct on the X-axis! Something is amiss - please use the contact form on our website and we'll arrange for a return and exchange.
  4. First things is to be 100% you have fully seated the connector on the controller end. Second, ff you have the AtariMax, boot up Pete's Test Cart and see what your readings are on both axes of the controller with the stick centered, and then moved to each extreme. Pete's Diagnostics (1982) (Atari).zip
  5. I have that same Engineer solder sucker and while it's light-years better than the $6 blue aluminum and plastic solder suckers you can find all over eBay and Amazon, and while it is great for clearing a single via or removing a component leg now and then, when you need to remove a 16-pin, 28-pin or 40-pin IC on a fragile board without damage, there's nothing like a Hakko in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. (1 dead 16-pin DRAM chip, 2 maybe/questionable 16-pin 74-series logic chips and 28-pin PLA chip all removed, socketed and replaced with no damage from a POS shit-tastic quality C64 board this past summer).
  6. I just got my AtariMax SD cart last night and tonight added the Playsoft demo to my card ... WOW! 😮 For all that is holy in this world, I hope this demo gets turned into a real playable game. Unbelievable how smooth and fluid the soft-sprite engine is!!!
  7. I have several Sandisk cards - currently two 16GB Ultra (silver label) and a very old 512MB black label that all work great. I used to have an 8GB Ultra silver label that worked as well but it was destroyed in a power supply accident that also destroyed one or more chips in my earlier XEL-CF-II board. But all of Sandisk cards have always worked perfectly in my XEL-CF interfaces in both my 1088XEL and 1088XLD machines.
  8. Please see this thread: My friend and business partner @MakerMatrix and I are building @smbaker's controllers, along with our own custom 3D-printed cases and buttons and the required extension cables at our dedicated site as discussed in the linked thread. Please be advised that we've been working down a sizable backorders list for the last month or so - we are nearly caught up but not completely. It will likely be a week or 10 days before we are entirely there. Maker Matrix
  9. Spent a few hours this morning getting into the holiday spirit and building more controllers! Gotta keep chipping away at the order backlog!
  10. Something spilled on the system in the previous decades that dripped/seeped, maybe. I've never seen a residue like that inside any of my vintage systems.
  11. Please read the prior posts. That is not the issue here.
  12. My only complaint with the site is that I would much prefer individually-named ATR files for each title rather than this rather arbitrarily-sorted conglomeration of titles on each ATR. I could easily load up all of the ATRs on the FAT partition of my SIDE2 cart, Incognito, etc., but I still require an external .TXT file to “decode” which games are stored in which ATR, which is more than a bit of a pain.
  13. This is what the original filter in my FR301 looked like after I removed all 16 DRAM chips and all 7 of the custom Atari ICs from a 130XE donor board. 😛
  14. You need to replace the ceramic fiber filter at the back end of the canister. They do fill up with with bits of solder and vapor depositions from flux and are a wear item. Buy a 10-pack of spares and if you get down to your last 2-3 filters, buy more.
  15. One of my local nerd-pals is @shupac - he has created a couple different FPGA POKEY implementations specifically for arcade board replacement and repair. It just so happens that his most recent version, POKEYOne, is - in quantity - an affordable AND AVAILABLE solution for @Albert to use in 7800 homebrews on the store. I also have one in my 1088XLD beta machine serving as the second (stereo) POKEY. Audio quality is indistinguishable to my ear and the Audacity waveforms were impossible to tell apart from genuine POKEY tracks. There might be some specific musical tricks and types of sounds where differences would be more pronounced but in playing dozens of stereo A8 demoscene tacks I never found one. For now, on a one-for-one basis the prices aren't quite cheap enough to buy POKEYOne or other FPGA versions when real POKEYs are still out there at the same cost or less. But vintage chips go up in price year by year while FPGA cores get cheaper. The crossover point is almost upon us, and when that happens, we'll be glad there are smart hardware guys like my friend and his colleagues who will be able to supply us with usable substitutes.
×
×
  • Create New...