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5-11under

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Posts posted by 5-11under


  1. I haven't really looked at the schematic, but... 10K for the pull-up resistor should be good.

    It could be a timing issue. Does the selected game work after pressing reset? If not, it still could be a timing issue, with latching of the upper addresses (sorry, would need to investigate further into the schematic, but could try putting small capacitor, maybe a couple hundred picoFarads between timing signals (such as latch, clock) and ground - try one at a time to see if anything helps).

    Also, are there bypass capacitors on all or at least most of the chips? (from +5V to ground).

     


  2. What I meant when I mentioned screenshots was showing a picture of the gameplay while scrolling through the list of games... a good memory jogger if you can't remember the name of a game, or if you want to select a game based on the picture... maybe it looks like a shooting game or puzzle game, for instance.

     


  3. I'm not a member of the cult... I'm just there for the food. ;)

    For me, the plusses compared to other solutions are boot time, software stability, single UI (can go from one system to another with the controller), loads of 8 bit goodness (pretty much all I need), one controller to rule them all.

    What's lacking for me... screenshots and manuals, a few arcade favorites, and some controller options. It's also a jump in price compared to some solutions.


  4. My set-up cost about $200 US (DE10-nano, 32MB SDRAM, OTG USB hub), although it looks like the DE10-nano price went up a bit (ignoring the controller, which cost me way more, for several good and bad reasons).

     

    This is my "Zimba 3000" system... loads of console/computer/arcade games, all used with the same controller. Great for the family room.

     


  5. 6 hours ago, John Stamos Mullet said:

    This emulator core looks great, but the whole MiSTer ecosystem makes absolutely no sense.
     

    It's like taking a hardcore hobbyist platform, and then making it more difficult than a puzzle from the 90's game Myst to figure out what to buy, where to buy it, and how to get it all up and running without getting your head bitten off by snobby, provincial enthusiasts who get all protective of their community when people ask basic questions like "why is this better than Raspberry pi?"

    It's actually pretty simple for most applications, although I did find that a bit of research is required, and there was some outdated information online.

    Find the hardware options available and what works best for you, and find a relatively new guide that includes mr. fusion and the update_all script. Personally I bought the DE10-nano, a 32MB memory card (works for ~99% of the games/systems), an OTG USB hub (comes in handy having a keyboard for set-up, as well as your controller), and a 32 GB microSD card (with enough games for a lifetime).

     

    As for the provincial enthusiasts, I'm sure there's snobbery all around in whatever options you're using to play games... Mac, PC, Linux, Pi, MiSTer, original hardware, iDevice, Android.

     

    My personal comparison to Raspberry Pi... I think it's better than the Raspberry Pi for stability (no issues found with power and shutting down and upgrading), simple file structure that's compatible with Windows, and the systems run great. It's quick and responsive. It's got the systems I want to play... I'm loving the arcade games, and I'm hoping a few more get added soon. The UI is simple, which is great (but if there was screen shots and manuals that were as easy to update as the rest of the system, I'd jump on that, too). Of course there's some growing pains in that some systems aren't 100% yet (same for Pi), and it's more expensive than a Pi. Pi seems to have more newer systems available to emulate, but the MiSTer has loads of classic computers. I've made Pi systems. None of them stuck around. The MiSTer is staying.

     

    • Like 2

  6. 1 hour ago, Draxxon said:

    Joystick in right hand only works well with a game with one or two action buttons. It you have 6 buttons, you'll want those on the right.

    I've only seen a couple hand over hand players for fighting games. I just laugh at them. Even Seth Killian. They don't do well at all in tournaments. 

    I'm not going to do well with either format for fighting games, but I'm sure I'll still be better with the joystick on the right. That's just me, from training since being a young lad.

    • Haha 1

  7. 12 minutes ago, ColecoDan said:

    That looks like a response you get from company proxy servers when you are trying to go to a page they have not authorized.

     

    Based on the companies policy settings they read the incoming http stream and anything that breaks policy gets that policy page.  Only someone who setup the companies policy settings would know what flagged it.  In my assumption they probably catch things related to gaming and that set off the company blocking of the site.    Has noting to do with the actual web page.

     

    Yep. Get back to work, and then try it at home.

     

    • Haha 1

  8. Pokeypy, it sounds like maybe you should read all the pages, or at least watch a video or two. It's built from a subsidized FPGA development board, and doesn't need a fan, and there's options besides the "stack" you often see.


  9. 10 minutes ago, bluejay said:

    Huh, there is a limit to how much current pass through the diode?

    The current through the diode will vary depending on the pull-up resistor, and of course the input level. There will be a limit depending on the diode, but besides that, the pull-up resistor will also limit the output current.

    • Like 1

  10. 5 minutes ago, youxia said:

    Today I read that the first instance of  Attract Mode frontend is available. S'funny, I recall that in the past some of the more zealous fans saying that they don't want any frontends like in emulation, because MiSTer is more "pure" this way :)

    I do like the current simplicity, but on the other hand, if things like manuals and pictures were available (and easily added/downloaded), that would be pretty cool, too.

     


  11. 1 hour ago, wongojack said:

     

    "The article erred in a number of ways.

    The demonstration uses an LED with a current limiting resistor as a test indicator. While a current limiting resistor in series with an LED is always a good idea, in this case the 470Ω resistor is 20 times lower than the 10kΩ pull-up resistor. Hence the 470Ω resistor has little effect.

    With 10kΩ pull-up resistor, the max current available to the LED is 5V/10kΩ = 0.5mA which is barely enough to turn on a high efficiency LED. It would make more sense to interchange the two values.

    I would have chosen a 1kΩ pullup resistor and a 2.2kΩ LED series resistor.

    Yeah... diode logic can be useful, but you've got to be careful. I use it in some of my game boards. To reduce risk, I make sure I have logic chips on both ends. For example, I wouldn't drive an LED with it, and I wouldn't go from one diode logic "gate" to another directly. It can be done, but you've got to be more careful in the math and voltage levels. In your example shown, for robustness, I'd be adding a transistor or IC inverter between the diode logic and the LED. As you've shown, you can make it work, but with the transistor/inverter added, you can drive more power to the LED, or hook up other items, such as motors (within power limits), etc.

    • Like 2

  12. 1 hour ago, doubledown said:

     

    ...well for me, I grew up playing a lot of Galaga at my local Pizza Hut, and that's the only choice (as was the case for many arcade cabinets).  But as I also grew up with a 2600, if I'm playing with any handheld joystick (versus a lap-top or table-top "arcade" stick), something akin to a CX-40, then I hold the base with my left hand, and manipulate the joystick with my right.  You gotta work with the tools that you're given!  😄

    Same for me for the 2600. For that Galaga machine, I would have used the hand over hand method.


  13. I sell boards... I'm in Canada, but can mail to most places. The boards are reprogrammable, easy to program with a simple edge connector and EPROM programmer, and are fully assembled and tested.


  14. I'm really loving my MiSTer FPGA system. I did a write-up here, where I describe what I bought, how much it cost, and some other details: 

    I also talk about the arcade controller I built, and issue with having a USB encoder board that assumes 2 players, but the MiSTer can only use inputs from a single controller.

     

    I still have a lot of curating to do, to get all the systems working well, such as getting rid of useless ROMs, and getting the correct type of ROM files, that sort of thing, but this thing is everything I've wanted in a "living room" type of system. If it played Star Castle (and maybe Qix, Pole Position, Omega Race, Super Sprint), my childhood would be complete. ;)

     

    A big thanks to all who have contributed to the MiSTer FPGA project!!

    • Like 1
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