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5-11under

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Posts posted by 5-11under


  1. Anyone who has paid recently, you should have received a PM that the package has been sent. Also, if you've sent me a PM over the past number of months expressing interest, you should have received a PM. Send me a PM if you've been missed for some reason.

     

    I have 4 longs and 2 shorts ready to go, and I have shells for ~20 more (still need to prepare the shells and populate the boards), so if you're interested, please send me a PM.

     

    • Thanks 1

  2. 1 minute ago, Tommy Tallarico said:


    Oh wow!  Holy crap!  You are into Microvision!!  Making your own screens!

     

    Count me in.

     

    And Arcadia 2001 multicart as well!!?!?!

    You sir... ROCK!!!

    Was there anyone crazy enough to do a Microvision home brew?

     

    Also... what the heck is this?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MB-ELECTRONICS-CASETTE-INTERCHANGEABLE-MICROVISION3-SHOOTING-STAR-1979/132546899990?hash=item1edc693016:g:EEMAAOSwAQBasNtv

     

     


    Whenever I spent time with Jay Smith (for those who don't know... the creator of Microvision) I always talked to him about Vectrex and never Microvision.

    (For those who don't know... yes... same guy who created Vectrex too!).

     

    Was just reading the Wiki page and found this passage to be extremely interesting and something I wasn't aware of...

    "According to Satoru Okada, the former head of Nintendo's R&D1 Department, the Microvision gave birth to the Game & Watch after Nintendo designed around Microvision's limitations.[7]"

     

    All quirky systems, it seems... . Probably the Intellivision is a bit quirky, too (compared to the competition at the time).

    That eBay link is for one of the European games. They're the same as the NA games (with different names) except there's a Super Blockbuster not released in NA.

    There's a few homebrews, at least in ROM format. None in physical form (at least in qty. > 1) that I'm aware of... yet... . ;)

     

    • Like 2

  3. 8 minutes ago, Tommy Tallarico said:

     

    I see that you are a big Microvision collector!  So cool!!  One of my favorites growing up.  My original one got lost somewhere between all my moves in the mid to late 80's. 

     

    I bought one off Ebay a few years back with some of the big ass carts but the screens were barely readable so I haven't really played in 40 years.

    :(

    Any tips on where to find a good one?

     

    UPDATE:  I just saw this on Ebay!
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Milton-Bradley-Microvision-Game-New-Replacement-LCD-Display-PREORDER/224090610358?hash=item342cd75ab6:g:YGgAAOSwLndfu-xk

     

    How easy is it to change the screen?

     

     

    MY version of the LCD replacement screen is a couple of months away. If you can wait, you'll save yourself $10. Long story; not for this thread. ;)

    Figure on 20 minutes to replace.

    • Like 3

  4. 100% agree, except (or maybe especially):

     

    1 hour ago, Relicgamer said:

    Telling me it wasn't that important to him. [...] Because he wasn't making it a priority.  Not interested, not at least all those months this thread went dark.

     

    Damn straight! This project "is" important to, but not "that" important to me. From about May to about October, this was absolutely nowhere near the top of my personal priority list. In fact, I had less than zero interest in this project. Like it or not, that's the way it was. Fin.

     

     

    Back to our regularly scheduled broadcast... the local reps of the LCD company have contacted the China office, who is now working on dialing in the correct contrast.

     

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  5. 1 minute ago, mikebola said:

    I think you're missing how someone has been dragging another creator through the mud, and challenging loyalties of people interested in their product over yours.

    I'm not knocking you for missing it. I know you're busy.

    It still makes no sense to me how someone else's words, someone who has nothing to do with either of the projects in question, seems to be affecting you so greatly.

    If you respect his words, then pay attention, but if you don't respect his words, then don't pay attention to him, and don't let him influence you. Personally, I listen to my family Doctor, but I pay no attention to Dr. Oz and Dr. Phil.

    • Like 5

  6. 5 minutes ago, RevEng said:

    So I just want to clarify if that "statute of limitations" thing cuts both ways... if we've raised our hands early on in this thread, it doesn't earn us a spot in line when the orders are able to be fulfilled; it will just be first come, first serve, once you make the announcement the product is in your hands. Is that right?

    At the moment, that's the case. I've got a couple of ideas to improve that... let me think about the best way... .


  7. 25 minutes ago, root42 said:

    Alternative: OSH Park. Here is a project which gives you the bare PCB:

     

    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ke2psYkp

     

    You can either order from OSH Park or any other PCB vendor of your choice.

    As you can see, there's an inverter that is required when using EPROMs (for most masked ROMs, that's inside the chip).

    See your diagram above. Pin 20 on one has a bar (or a slash in this case), indicating the logic is inverted.


  8. 15 minutes ago, Tursi said:

    Can you offer up some links to read more about that? I wasn't aware it was possible to reduce the overall voltage with a series connection...

     

    I didn't really have a link in mind.

    Really, the battery example works well, because the sources are isolated, without any common ground/connection. I just tried it, to make sure. ;)

    That said, I haven't really thought about how it works in real life if you're trying to get 7.5V from the 9V and 1.5V battery, like how the batteries would drain.

     

    But, for the given example of a ColecoVision, if you have a 12V battery and a 5V battery, and if you connect the + of the 5 to the - of the 12, and call that your ground point, then the - of the 5 is -5V, and the + of the 12 is +12V (both relative to the ground point).


  9. If all the supplies are isolated, you can do the addition and subtraction/reversals. For example with a 9V and 1.5V battery you can get + or - 7.5V or + or - 10.5V, depending on how you connect them. If they're not isolated from each other, something bad will happen. Don't try it unless you're absolutely sure. As mentioned, you can find bricks or supplies that provide the correct voltages with sufficient current.

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