nick3092

A better picture of the IC markings might help someone figure it out. I can make out a cd4069 hex inverter on the right. Possibly a 4013 flip flop in the middle. Can't make out any markings on the left IC. I do see some wires running to the spot on the PCB where reed switches were planned on being mounted for a spinner in a prototype controller. I'm pretty sure Coleco kept the prototype PCB design, and just used it without reed switches for early production controllers.

I'd be concerned about the electrical noise those cheap supplies put out. There have been multiple attempts at adapting similar supplies in the past with mixed results. I would personally recommend one of two solutions. First, the colusb, but I'm pretty sure it isn't in stock (and hasn't been for quite some time). The other one is a 2 piece solution. This adapter: https://lundyelectronics.com/product/colecovision-power-supply-adapter/ and the matching meanwell psu brick (from a reputable dealer like Digikey or mouser). It's probably going to run around $60-70 all together with shipping. But it's been tested by multiple people to be noise free. A company called Keelog also makes one. It seems to be solid, but the cable is a little short, and some of the soldering inside may be questionable from what I have read here on AA. But it does use a reputable meanwell supply inside.

This isn't an AppleWin thing. This is how Apples actually work. You have to boot a disk that has some kind of disk operating system if you want to be able to save anything to disk. There are no disk routines built into the Apple boot roms. But, yes. If you use a generic boot disk, it should have access to basic.

Not sure what you mean. AppleWin doesn't supply any disk images that I'm aware of. You need to supply those yourself, then mount/insert one into drive 1, and it should boot the disk.

Assuming you booted with some kind of DOS disk (either a dos 3.3 boot disk or ProDOS boot disk with basic.system on it), and didn't just use ctrl-reset to drop to a ] prompt, it's simple. If you want to save to the disk that is already mounted in drive 1, just type "save <filename>". If you want to save to a floppy image mounted in drive 2, "save <file name>,d2". If you just did a ctrl-reset, you're stuck, as there is no disk operating system loaded. The filename length will be limited by which DOS used. DOS 3.3 I believe is 30, and ProDOS is 15.

I believe there is a bipolar 1uf cap in the reset circuit. If it's a reset issue, replacing that may fix it.

I'm guessing kings quest, 1984.

If you are a member of the CollectorVision club, it is most likely in the rom vault. Unfortunately, if you aren't, membership for this year closed April 1st.

Afaik this does not take advantage of SGM at all. So you won't see any difference. Infact, if I have my SGM attached when I power on the Coleco with the cart, about 50% of the time I get a red screen at the capcom logo and it freezes up. Have to play reset roulette till it boots properly.

According to the video description, it was played on a Phoenix. Which emulates the F18a hardware mod. And the F18a eliminates flicker.

Ah, I just skimmed the manual and saw "attach wire" and assumed it was the same as most other consoles where you have to have the wire sticking out. I never really pursued it on my 5200 adapter. Thanks for the explanation of what is actually taking place for the reset circuit. But still a little fiddly, especially if there is a way to do it without soldering any jumpers or wires as Steve seems to have done. Especially since he doesn't have any notes or disclaimers that his reset button only works with 2 port or modified 4 ports. I did point out to Evie on the Coleco that there must be someway to trigger the reset through software instead of the wire, as that is how Steve did it. But she didn't seem interested in pursuing it. Like I said, she seems interested in just bare bones basic functionality. Which is fine, its her cart and I actually use it without the reset wire in most cases. And I get it, it may take a much deeper dive into Coleco or 5200 hardware to figure out these reset methods that don't require wires/jumpers that shes not interested in doing. Steve basically supports like 3 platforms for his carts. Evie supports like 15 for Backbit, and seems to be working on adding more. Need to pick and choose where your priorities are at that point when you are juggling that many systems.

Backbit doesn't (automatically) support a reset button on the original 4 ports (my understanding is the ones not compatible with the 2600 adapter), but does with the 4 ports that are compatible and 2 ports. However, you have to flip a switch on the adapter to enable it. Which implies there is some sort of different pin/signal routing involved depending on the 5200 console it's connected to. I'm not sure how Steve approached that with the newer carts that now have a reset button. But for the early 4 ports with Backbit, you can clip a wire on one of the ICs that runs to the backbit, and then the reset button will work. On the flip side for Coleco, Atarimax has a reset button, no extra work needed. But Backbit requires you to open up your Coleco and clip a wire to the motherboard and connect it to the backbit to enable the reset button. So in this case, Atarimax does what Evie don't. IMO Evie seems to be more interested in a no frills approach to Backbit. And there is nothing wrong with that. I say that owning pretty much every adapter of hers that I also have a dedicated flash cart for. Having options is good, and sometimes it's nice having both options.

The club registration closed Monday. When is the vault info going to be sent out?

Mine used/took the 1756E157 version successfully. Steve is very helpful the times I've contacted him, and as I understand is very generous in his warranty. Luckily, I've never had to use the warranty. No argument there. I'd gladly buy any product he sells that I need (I already own 3). My experience is he is responsive once he replies. But it usually takes weeks and multiple emails to get his attention. And I'm not alone in that experience. Then there is the fact that unlike almost every other product out there, he doesn't publicly post the firmware nor provide any kind of changelog. So then you have to jump through hoops getting ahold of him to make sure your cart is up to date. Unless someone who already did the leg work posts them here. And even then you have no idea if it's worth it.