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Everything posted by Emehr

  1. Thanks for all the responses. I took apart my controller again and cleaned the contact surfaces with an eraser. I am able to get an audio response from my ohmmeter when I complete the circuit with a piece of metal (e.g. I probe pins 4 and 7 on the controller's plug and press "Start" with the piece of metal). However, when I use the rubber pad to simulate a button press, I get a reading of around 500 Ohms. Granted the rubber pads aren't as conductive as my knife blade, I was wondering if this is a normal reading. If so, my controller is operational. So, for example, pins 4, 7, and 15 (GND) would have to be jumped to effectively press Start? Before I was just jumping 4 and 7. In any case, neither method seems to work. I referenced Jay Tilton's page for the pinouts (since I can't seem to find my notes)... http://users.erols.com/tiltonj/games/tech/...h/5200cont.html @joeybastard: Unfortunately I don't have any other controllers for my system (except the extra controller I used for parts). The only 3rd party game I have is Gyruss. My 7 other games are first party commons. I tried 'm all using every button on the controller. @MrRetroGamer: If I can't find someone locally to check out my controller I may just take you up on your offer! Jason (still plugging away at it)
  2. *bump* (Wow, can't believe it's almost been a year.) Anyway, I've since acquired a rather nasty 5200 controller from a used video game place and, together with my original, have managed to cobble together a clean, lightly greased stick that looks practically brand new (after much cleaning). It even kinda self-centers. Alas I am still left with a controller that doesn't operate the 5200. So...before I plunk down the coin for a rebuild kit for a system that I'm not sure will work even with a perfectly operating controller, I thought I'd bump this thread in the hopes that someone has tried this: is there any way to test the 5200 without the controller? My 5200 still powers up fine and everything. Beyond that I'm not sure if there's something internal that will keep it from functioning even with a working controller. Thanks a lot for any help! Jason
  3. I never minded the game back in the day. I was probably 7 or 8 when our family got it. The manual was soon lost but we (my brother and I) managed to understand the game enough to play and win. I don't ever remember being confused by it. It didn't take long to learn that you should never exit the well at the north edge (assuming north is up). That's just asking for it. And there were some screens that should never be entered from a certain direction. Beyond that, the amount of falling into a well is totally dependent on the player's ability to avoid them. Plus, the game had some great and memorable sound effects. I suppose it's popular to talk trash about the game but all this talk about it being one of the worst games ever makes me...well.... @Random Terrain: nice site! Jason
  4. That was an EGM April Fools trick from the 1991 issue for TMNT II. But here it is anyway for the record... There's even a caption in the same article spoiling the joke: "After you've tried this 10 times read the name of the person who sent this in." - Jason
  5. I highly recommend the LucasArts graphical adventures such as 'Day of the Tentacle' and 'Full Throttle' (if you can find them). 'Indiana Jones and the Fate of Atlantis' is a good one too. And speaking of LucasArts games, if you get a hold of a joystick don't miss 'Tie Fighter'. I'll also second the 'Warcraft' and 'Marathon' games and throw in some 'Prince of Persia'. As I am partial to flying games, I have to also mention 'A-10 Attack' and it's sequel 'A-10 Cuba'. - Jason
  6. My PS1 library isn't all that huge (28 games and counting) but the games I logged the most hours on (and had fun doing it) were... - Final Fantasy VII - Castlevania: Symphony of the Night - Gran Turismo - Metal Gear Solid - Oddworld: Abe's Oddysee Jason
  7. Actually, yeah I'd like to see your set up. I always imagined the tuner upside down with some homemade stand when used with an SP. Hmm, maybe we should move this to the hardware forum...
  8. Make sure the RF cable is plugged into the bottom of the tuner (by the antenna base), not the top (where it says "A/V in/out"). That was my first mistake when I started messing around with it. Also, tune it to channel 3 (somewhere between 60 and 62MHz). I can post some pics if you're still having trouble.
  9. Yeah, it's a Pelican GBA Tuner. Quite the versatile accessory. You can feed it an RF or A/V signal. I've since modded my GBA with an afterburner and have yet to try it with that.
  10. It's best just to stick with the original :-)
  11. Be sure to download the Atari 2600 Support Files from the DASM site and put 'em in your project directory. They're VCS.h and macro.h. And it is possible to use MPW on OSX. Runs fine in classic mode. Jason
  12. I recently acquired a 4-port 5200 from eBay. It came with all necessary hookups, a few games, and a controller that was advertised as non-working. The system powers up fine and I get a nice picture on the television but, as expected, none of the controller buttons seem to do anything. I took apart the controller and gave it a good cleaning, reassembled it, and tried it again. No luck. So I disassembled the controller once more so I could map out the pins. Once I knew which pins did what (and cross-checking my work with online docs) I attempted to do some troubleshooting. Now if I'm not mistaken, jumping pins 4 and 7 on the console is the same as pushing "Start" on the controller. However, when I did this nothing happened. I even tried other combos (like pressing "2" (pins 7 + 2) for 2 player). Nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Do I have a semi-working 5200 or is my pin-jumping method incorrect? Thanks in advance. -Jason (who hopes he didn't fry his 5200)
  13. Woohoo! My new (v1.06) high score! BTW, I like this new version. The drop rate is perfect. I have a habit of putting the letter "o" at the end of words for fun, so here's my next contribution to the name game... "Tunnelo!" -Jason
  14. While playing a round I thought of a deliciously evil play mechanic: invisible walls . But then I backed up a bit and thought seriously, "We're in a cave. It's dark. Where is the light source coming from? The helicopter!". How about, at random, the helicopter's headlight starts to go out? It flickers on and off, less frequent at first, then more so until it's finally dark. To keep the light alive, the player has to pick up more "juice" for the light. If the light goes out completely, instead of total darkness, just make the playfield and wall graphics a dark shade of grey making flight more difficult, yet not impossible. This can be but one of the obstacles in the game as it could wear thin if it were the only. I just thought it would intensify the already stressful game play if a wall suddenly appeared in the middle of the screen . Just a thought. Jason BTW: "Cave Chopper!" (It's difficult coming up with a single-word name that best describes the unusual situation of a helicopter flying in a cave .)
  15. Emehr

    Best Atari Game

    I'll put in another vote in for Warbirds. It was also the reason I wanted a Lynx (ever since I saw the Lynx insert in EGM #28 (Nov '91)). Just recently I acquired a second working Lynx...10+ years later I can finally play multiplayer Warbirds! Woo! Can't just name one great Lynx game so I'll name a few... Klax (masterpiece) Chip's Challenge Steel Talons Ninja Gaiden (although my thumb wouldn't say so ) I also like Xybots and STUN Runner. Both are games I played in the arcade and both translated very well to the Lynx. Love that Xybots music...just wish the robot voices from the arcade would have made the transition. Jason
  16. Abe's Oddysee and Abe's Exoddus both came out for PS1. Both are excellent but I like the first one (Oddysee) a bit more. It just seemed like a tighter game, and Abe's voice wasn't as annoying (they changed it slightly in Exoddus). The second one seems a bit easier than the first though I have yet to beat it (I'm near the end at a timed level...ugh). Whichever one you pick up, though, be sure to allocate plenty of time to play. There are some tough puzzles ahead... Jason
  17. The problem is consistent no matter what game or power source I use (my AC jack is flaky too ). When I bought the Lynx it had corroded batteries in it. I took the Lynx apart and cleaned some of the solder joints which had some corrosion on them. Perhaps some fresh solder on these joints will revive the current flow? Thanks, Jason
  18. Very nice! I can't wait to try it out. I made the 2 transistor/4 resistor adapter (stuffed in a matchbox) years ago and drew countless sketches trying to make it as small and space efficient as possible using those 6 components. This is about as space efficient as it gets! I appreciate your efforts! Jason
  19. I have a broken Lynx that seems to power on OK, but the game doesn't seem to load: screen is black, no audio, the backlight button doesn't toggle the backlight (which is on), and the brightness knob is ineffective. Is replacing this component a cure for this particular ailment? Also, is this the 'Q12' component on the board. I seem to recall mention of this part on other 'dead Lynx' topics in the forums as a clue to their demise. If so, my part number reads "222 M(Motorola) T3055EL". Any difference? There seem to be a lot of dead Lynxes and so few solutions to getting them back in working order. I'd love to bring at least one back to life! Thanks, Jason
  20. Here are my personal favorites as enjoyed on a Performa 6116CD (60MHz) I've owned (and still own) since 1996: LucasArts: X-Wing, Tie Fighter, Full Throttle, The Dig, Day of the Tentacle, and Indiana Jones and the Fate of Atlantis. Blizzard: Warcraft 2 and Diablo. Infogrames: Alone in the Dark Trilogy (3 CD set, #3 is my favorite). Ambrosia: just about anything they make. My two favorites are Escape Velocity and Harry the Handsome Executive. Misc: A-10 Attack! (incl. Cuba missions) and Flashback. Other Shareware: Tetris Max (also known as 'Bricklayer'), Arashi (very nice Tempest clone), Glypha III (Joust clone), and Spectre Challenger just to name a few. Have fun with your new old Mac! Jason
  21. Combat ("You have to be the bomber!" was a common phrase back in the day) and Empire Strikes Back.
  22. I'm happy to oblige. It helps to have a lot of reusable code from past projects. BTW, I recently subscribed to Stellalist but I'm still in "research the archives before I post" mode. Thanks for putting the word out! I was thinking about adding standard paint tools (selection, rectangle, circle, line) but hadn't committed to it. Consider it now on my to-do list. That is correct. 'Undo' has yet to be implemented (adds to list). It's written in C and built with MPW. I'm still getting my feet wet with OS X's ProjectBuilder. When I'm at a nice, stable version I'll Carbonize it. Thanks for the feedback! If anybody also has preferences for how they'd like to have their playfield data formatted please let me know. Jason
  23. 104 carts. This is not counting dupes (don't have any label variations), but then again it wouldn't add much to my count anyway From the 9 games my family had in the early 80's to the bargain bin liquidations of the late 80's to used video game stores that still sell 2600 games, I think I'm getting close to owning all the games I value in play. I'm still on the lookout for H.E.R.O. and Frostbite - and saving my coins for a few homebrews (must...own...Qb...and Gunfight...and others...). Rarest cart: Atari Video Cube w/box and instructions (a $3 (+tax) find!); followed by Tapper and Pengo (both loose). Useless factoid: Popeye was my 100th 2600 cart! Hyuk-kuh-kuh-kuh! Jason Rein
  24. For the resident Mac users programming for Stella, I now present my weekend project: Stella Playfield Editor! It's a graphical tool for generating single or 8-color RGB blend playfield graphics. The image can then be saved to a user customizable text file formatted for use with DASM. A Read Me file is included to get you started. Tested with OS 8.6 and OS X (in Classic mode). Let me know what you think! Direct download link: http://home.earthlink.net/~goateetrain/ste...s/spfeditor.sit Enjoy! Jason Rein
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