chas10e

nothing like opening an old topic. I just made my own screwdriver. this post made it all possible. http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/208849-holt-security-screw-removal-sears-pong-sega-ea-carts/

I recently acquired a Dedicated Super Pong IV system & needed to open it up. the screw in the battery compartment I discovered from reading these forums is called a "Holt" brand security screw I happened to be placing an order with Best Electronics & they have never carried a screwdriver or security tip to remove this little bugger E-bay has one for $19.99, but a little pricy for my needs! http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F3-Prong-Security-Bit-HOLT-6-Open-USA-Stock-%2F380339786487%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem588e0492f7 so I made my own & took some pics: Items I used: 3 paperclips an electrical wire-nut (with spring inside) a ballpoint pen electrical tape Tools I used: needle nose pliers with cutters 1/8" drill bit in a Dremel tool I drilled a hole in the top end of the wire-nut straightened the 3 paperclips and as evenly as I could twisted them into the wire-nut so they would protrude through the top end I drilled probably protruding an 1/8" I used an electrical wire-nut because, 1. I have plenty of them around & 2. the spring inside would hold the paperclips firmly I used paperclips because 1. I have plenty of them around & 2. they are less pliable than copper wire so they will hold up better trial & error one wire-nut was used & spring inside to loose , another was new & paperclips twisted & broke before protruding though end I drilled. I emptied the ball point pen to tape to wire-nut so I wouldn't get stabbed buy cut ends of paperclip from bottom of wire-nut & gave me a bit of something to hold on to. when pressing down to loosen the screw in the console, it seemed to form itself to fit better on the screw The first image is actually the one I made to work on Sega Genesis EA carts with a similar Holt type security screw ( different size it appears ) the tines on the tip I made need to protrude out far enough to reach the screw that is recessed into the cartridge I was able to re-install the all screws as well as remove them: on the Pong console I wanted to maintain the integrity of a classic console on the Sega cart ... just to see if it could be done. ... I discovered to was easier removing than replaceing you'll want to make sure it's seated all the way in. I hope this helps: chas10e

"Related Titles" link in game descriptions comes in handy every now and again I just noticed the "Related Titles" cross-links missing for both games Atari "Slot Racers" Sears "Maze" ( I always assumed the sears "maze"title was another game) Atari "Maze Craze" Sears "Maze Mania" those are Related Titles and each are properly cross linked

wow, I didn't really know there was actually a member feedback forum ... bought some 2600 stuff that is really fun to play ... Dave gave recommendations on how to make a smooth transaction, items came quick & exactly as advertized at a reasonable price.

I have the mis-printed 7800 version of Tomcat ... I'm waiting to hear back on the 2600 version. I'll shoot a PM

yeah that was solder splatter that came off the end of my iron as I was reaching to clean it off .... wasn't there when I started project I wished I took a before photo ... also next time I'll try & crop them before hosting

heh got 'em & they are fantastic very good experiance as a newcomer to Atariage Thanks

TRIPLE POST ??? yikes being newto these forums I hope that's ok: ( I don't see an edit button ) also i said I was going to post some images so I have to give that a try: I'm not at all proud of the work ... the cart has failed (black screen) for better or worse here it is (flaming to a minimum please) inexperience with the desoldering tool ( looks like a soldering gun with a bulb on top) caused most of the overheating I believe ... tiredness& bad eyesight a contributing factor the spool of solder I was using originally has no markings on the label to indicate its size & flux ratio ... all it says is that is is "lead free" basically .... I wished I looked at size when I was loking at other spools I bought some helping hands with a magnifying glass attached, a new spool of solder 60/40 rosin core .032" diameter (has lead I imagine) & some desoldering braid to say I didn't care about my Asteroids cart wouldn't be true (to look at it you might not think so) I did get to see it power up for just a short bit though ... so some more questions: can I use a continuity meter to determine if there is continuity from the contacts to the EPROM ? ( or both sides of the board before the EPROM) for a cartridge of a higher rarity value what sort of place would I take it to to be "professionally re-flowed" should my skills not improve ? I do appreciate your time & input and a bit embarrassed about the pics

double post ? ... I'll figure this place out I hope .... went & got corded irons ... 7 bucks @ sears for 30w ... & 12.99 @ Radioshack for desolder-iron ... I had some solder & it seemed quite expensive to just snag another roll ... the solder I have just says "lead free Rosin Core ... fairly small , maybe the size of pencil-lead .... at first it seemed to work , initial start-up the screen rolled but when I hit reset button the game started .... I played only for a short bit before turning offthen on again then it wouldn't start , got horizontal lines across screen .... Itinkered with re-flowing solder in first row with no change , filled other holes previously that didn't seem to be filled from factory with no change , I tried other console , no change I wished I took before phot'o's .... I don't really wanna take after photos as the job doesn't look to neat .... I don't think I bridged anything .... yeah the whole point of the exercise is the get comfortable soldering , Asteroids , being a great game , is common & I have a repllacement already ( & I think a cib on the way ) the de-soldering tool is tricky ... whats the reasoning behind ... re-flowing adding solder then removing it all ? ... I probably only needed to re-flow a bit & add a bit I guess ... OOPSIES I'll rince recycle -repeat tomorrow perhaps .... my eyes are bugging out I did try a reflow on the EPROM pins without removing any solder , again I don't think anything was bridges unless between the green film somehow ( is that possible ? ) if you desire pics of some gorrilla soldering , lemme know I'll just have to figure out the BB-code for these forums

I'm tottaly going to Radio Shack .... that desoldering thing looks pretty awesome ... I do have a desoldering bulb .... I never tried wick I JUST lite the thing up when I read that .... good for use when your a million miles away from some power .... k , off to teh store ... prolly grab a sammich too

this particular cart I was planning to use double sided tape ... specifically the tape that cam with cold weather window film it happens to be about the exact width of an end label the origonal glue on the face label still seemed pretty useable (picured varient of aeroids) next time I probably would only peel enough to access the screw 3M also makes a spray-on adhesive I dunno if theres a roll-on type adhesive but again this cart is for me to practice on ... I was typing & thinking when you posted this ... it seems to be what might be the deal again I have crude equipment & probably cruder skills at this point ... what would be some good birthday gift ideas I could give to my family ? warming table? temperature controlled soldering iron ? techniques on reflowing solder may be helpful if I don't respong to this thread in a couple days ... I probably burned down the house & in the hospital horizontal stripes ... prolly more like a corrupted referee is the color set correctly on your console & your TV ... I hooked my latest heavy-sixer up to my 55" rear-projection TV & split it to my old 19" & discoverd having it on a "movie or sports" setting affeted the colors greatly .... I did have to adjust the pot inside the console as well .... but first needed to get TV right (Pitfall 1 was one of the carts I used to see if colors looked right.

I have already a replacement for Asteroids ... and it very common , so that's the one I experimented with . ... still no luck with it ... cleaned with 91% alcohol a few time before ... did again to no avail (q-tip wasn't soiled) this is the first cart I had ever taken apart .... almost got entire front label off with out messing it up ( DOH! ) cleaned contacts with a high polymer white eraser ... put in console EPROM up as it would be in the cart , same thing I noticed the PCB has holes with solder in them to switch sides of card ... from the EPROM toward the contacts that go into the console ... there is a row of 6 holes , some have more solder in them than others ... next row has 5 & last has 2 .... BOTH rows have no solder in them. this particular cart I know was stored in an unventilated attic for a good number of years (15 or 20 + ) the main reason for this post is the $18.00 I payed for a cib I was hoping to give to my niece of "Steeplechase" should I try re-flowing the solder in the holes that have solder ? do I fill the holes with solder that doesn't have solder? do I put a continuity meter from each contact to a point in the EPROM ? ... I only have a butane soldering iron & not any kind of fancy one ... to bad Pitfall Harries strips didn't come .... did he look more like a fugitive or a mime ? in YARs Revenge I believe "ITARATARI" is the code used to create the force-field in a normal (good thing the programmer didn't use something obscene !!!

not long ago I came across my first dead atari cart. it was "Space Shuttle" after reading missing manual here in AA & making a crude overlay the game would seem to start then messing with the various console switches if I just graze the cart as it's in the console , it's like I pulled the cart completely out & get a bad screen & tone (zig-zaggy horizintal lines) that was really a first try for that cart. immediately, after that one I tried a game I've played before went bad .... Asteroids that cart I get the score & the space ships & music , but no rocks to shoot at. I tried cleaning the carts with 91% alcohol , I tried cleaning my Vader unit cartridge slot (cloth wrapped around credit card) today I got in the mail "Steeplechase" the PCB pins on it look brand new as it came "cib" all I get is a black screen on this one a few times I'll get two vertical green lines ... did the first bad cart do something to damage both consoles ? ... what goes wrong with them ?

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