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HunterZero

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About HunterZero

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  1. Quite normal, as the power supply board with its voltage regulators and heatsinks is in the top left corner.
  2. Very interesting stuff here! So the RA-3-9600-1 could work as a drop-in replacement for NTSC systems, but not PAL due to the slightly higher CPU/bus clock? And the RA-3-9600A should work as a drop-in replacement on both? The SRAM is such a common failure I always wondered if a modern RAM chip could be adapted to fit the RA-3-9600 pinout with a small adapter board. It may need some logic for the buffering registers, and address bus logic, but can't imagine it being too hard. The STIC chips (CCIR and NTSC) and CP-1610 CPU would be good candidates for replacement with a FPGA drop-in replacement. This would be an interesting project for someone... - James
  3. I won my Intellivision (with Star Strike pack in!) in a Streets Paddle Pop ice cream "Lick a Prize" competition when I was little. I mailed away a competition entry for 2nd chance draw, and they told me I'd won a bicycle... but the Intellivision turned up instead. It was the only game console I had as a kid.
  4. Not including homebrew: AD&D: Treasure of Tarmin Thin Ice Thunder Castle Just missing out... Burgertime Bump 'n' Jump AD&D: Cloudy Mountain (the game that I remember most vividly being used to display an Intellivision at a Grace Bros department store back in the early 80s)
  5. I'm not really interested in the Amico at all, I cannot see it succeeding long term unfortunately. I am more likely to support projects that push the original Intellivision hardware to its limits, I find that far more impressive. - J
  6. Seriously impressive! I am definitely keen to support this. - J
  7. Speaking of the RA-3-9600... In my experience this is the most common failure, it would be really good to develop some sort of adapter PCB so that a modern RAM chip could be used as a replacement. Similar for the EXEC PROM/SROM/GROM chip adapter boards, allowing replacement with newer flash EPROM. This would have the side effect of enabling things such as custom firmware and graphics mods. - J
  8. Yes that definitely looks like a version of the composite kit produced by retro_mood (eBay name) in Turkey. Good reliable kit, compatible with PAL and NTSC. As for other options for composite kits, here are the ones that come to mind... Has anyone tried the Retrofixes kit? Here: https://store.retrofixes.com/products/intellivision-composite-upgrade-amp-kit-coming-soon Otherwise, there are schematics by Solarfox for a simple AV mod, I've heard varying results with this mod (from good results, to jailbars/dark picture). It wouldn't be too difficult to lay out PCB's and have them printed for this mod. Here: http://solarfox.triluminary.net/hwh_intvav_p4.php - J
  9. One of the membrane keypad buttons might be stuck down. When this happens, it can "lock out" the disc control and other key pad buttons. As suggested, disconnecting one or the other controller can help check this. - J
  10. Bubbly looking traces on the Intellivision main board are completely normal. The GI chipset is known to be susceptible to thermal faults. I would try swapping the ICs out with known good ones one by one, starting with the RA-3-9600 SRAM, then the AY-3-8900-1 STiC, then the CP-1610 CPU, then the AY-3-8914 sound chip. - J
  11. The Intellivision uses a STIC chip to generate the picture, and a supporting chip/circuit to generate the required colour signal. Old analogue TV signals were compatible with both black and white and colour TVs. The STIC chip comes in NTSC and CCIR variants. NTSC Intellivisions use the PAL STIC for 60Hz timings, and an AY-3-8915 IC to generate the colour signals. PAL Intellivisions use the CCIR STIC for the 50Hz timings, instead of an AY-3-8915 color PROM, a discrete circuit is used to generate the PAL colours. There must have been some frequency tolerance reason why the AY-3-8915 was deleted and replaced for PAL systems. - J
  12. The disc controller itself is decent. It's the side action buttons and number pad that are not great. - J
  13. You do usually have intrinsic rights to claim a trademark, if you were using that trademark in business first. Eg, if two parties apply for the same trademark, the group that can demonstrate officially using that name for longer will usually win. Trademarks usually apply to company/brand names, but in some cases can apply to unique (not generic) product names (eg Liquid Paper is a trademark, correction fluid is not, and cannot be a trademark), unique logos (like the Coca-Cola dynamic ribbon device), icons (such as the Mickey Mouse head), mascot characters or even some 3D shapes that would normally come under design patent (again the Coca-Cola hobble skirt bottle). Some of these areas overlap into copyright and design patent laws. You are correct that the name/title of a book, video game etc cannot be copyrighted, but if you have a series of books, video games etc that come under the same title, then that name can be trademarked. Eg, Nintendo's Super Mario Bros, or Harry Potter series of books. Also, a unique lettered logo design based on the title could be considered an artwork, and falls into that area of both being covered by copyright, and eligible for trademark. Application of copyright laws are almost subjective for some scenarios... - J
  14. The game name, code and original art from it would be covered by copyright, but unless BBWW has actively applied for a TM for the video game name "Piggy Bank" and had it registered, it won't be protected as a trademark. BBWW, have you applied for a trademark? - J
  15. Very likely there's either a poor/oxidised connection, power issue, controller issue or possibly a logic board issue. First, I would not recommend cleaning electrical contacts with window cleaner, as these often contain soaps or fragrances or ammonia that could contaminate or corrode the contacts. Get some >90% isopropyl alcohol and clean the contacts again. The controllers are a common point of failure. If one of the buttons is shorted, ie, permanently pressed, then it prevents the unit from starting. If you do disassemble the unit to disconnect the controllers or test the power supply and disconnect the ribbon cable, DO SO WITH EXTREME CARE. The ribbon cable that connects the power supply board to the logic board is fragile, and can easily disintegrate or go bad. Missing power rails can cause black screen. Testing the power supply requires a volt/multimeter. You can rule out the controllers without opening the main unit by opening each controller, and removing the mylar insert (again treat these with care), which has a similar effect to disconnecting them at the logic board. There are a number of common logic board faults that can cause black screen too. Getting to the logic board requires soldering skills to desolder the shielding encasing the logic board (breaking the casing off is not recommended). Most common parts that go bad are the RA-3-9600 RAM chip, AY-3-8900-1 STIC chip, AY-3-8914 audio chip, or transistors Q1/Q2. If you're not comfortable with troubleshooting 70's electronics, you might find someone here why is nearby, and able to take a look for you. - J
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