ahofle

I just tried it again to see if the 1.3 firmware made any difference...it still doesn't work. One or two buttons register but it's unplayable. With the XBOX ONE controller, everything is mapped perfectly by default. I haven't tried a custom firmware yet.

XBOX 360 didn't work for me...only the XBOX one controller works.

OMG Toobin! I am looking at the controls and they don't seem...right. Is it possible to have the back XBox flipper buttons mapped to back L/R paddle and the bumpers mapped to forward L/R paddle (and then something like A for throw)? That would be perfect. Paddling forward with one hand seems difficult.

I really wish they would get rid of the menu mapping when running games from the SD card since the menu is pretty much useless anyway. I tried Alladin SNES and pressing Y on the Xbox ONE controller brings up the menu and also makes Alladin attack, so it's mapped to both. Just an FYI that you can move ALL the MAME folders (artwork, cfg, etc) into an "Arcade" subfolder and it works perfectly. No need to leave those folders at the root of Games. All things considered this little console is amazing. Biggest bummer for me so far is that the paddle doesn't work with anything on the SD card. Playing Kaboom or arcade Arkanoid with it would be amazing.

Yes thank you! Most useful post here. Looks beautiful and vastly improves vertical games. Does anyone know of a generic bezel that will improve all other vertical games (mostly just looking for correct aspect ratio here)? This little system is so worth the price if you are looking for a small, portable multi-game system with more than just 2600 games. Here are the only major downsides I'm tracking: - no paddle support for SD card games (2600 or arcade) - clunky UI for SD card games (no sorting, sub folder support, etc.) - controller remapping on SD card games would be nice I think a very simple firmware upgrade could easily fix those 3 things and make this an amazing little device.

I couldn't agree more with this. This GSP is hands down the best remake plug n play Atari system of the ones I've tried (Retron, Flashback, etc.). I have ultimately ditched all of those due to poor paddle support. The paddles on this thing are actually pretty good (not as good as original Atari paddles, but nothing will ever be). It BLOWS MY MIND that you can't use the paddles when running 2600 games from the SD Card. I was so excited to play Kaboom and Pong and was shocked that they only worked with the joystick. I am really hoping for some kind of patch for this. I don't think you could ask for more from an $80 system.

Hello, I am trying to follow the steps on ATGames support site to upgrade the firmware for their new paddle fix, but I am not having any luck with either the primary or 'alternate' steps. https://wagnerstechtalk.com/fbgold/#Firmware_Update The Android Tool 'Driver Assistant' simply won't recognize the flashback when it's plugged in. I've tried 5 different cables and I see that many people have the same issue on Win10. The alternate instructions also will not work. I got the OTG cable and flash drive recommend on several posts, but when I boot up it just loads the main menu and doesn't recognize the atari_update file on the USB drive. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Any update on this bug? I am seeing the same behavior where it jumps all the way right at some point past midway with paddles.

This thread inspired me to build a joystick with arcade parts...hope this helps someone.

With some inspiration from this thread: ...and very little luck finding a reasonably priced Atari 2600 replacement joystick using arcade controls, I decided to build my own and document everything in hopes others may find it useful. I ended up making two of them, but they came out to around $45 each in parts. Parts Sanwa JLF ripoff arcade joystick with octagonal restrictor option (a real Sanwa would be better, but they are more expensive). You will have to install the octagonal restrictor yourself -- these are far superior to rounded or square IMO: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086ZRB1QJ Buttons (I like these non-clicky buttons that feel like leaf switches -- use whatever you prefer): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RC2DB3H Zulkit Junction Box Waterproof Dustproof IP65 ABS Plastic Project Box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081LZSX9J DB9 terminals (recommend ones that can be mounted horizontally): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H9B6ZZ Straight through DB9 cable M/F: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6GIUNC Optional Atari cable extension: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313713280190 Machine screws (4 for joystick and 2 for DB9 terminal): no link...bring the joystick and DB9 terminal to a hardware store and pick some screws that fit tight through the mounting holes. Build Cut one end of the joystick ribbon cable and separate/strip the wires on the other end. Attach other end to joystick. I used a multimeter to determine Left/Right/Up/Down and ground wires and labeled them with a sharpie (1 mark for L, 2 for R, etc). Mark the direction of the top plate with an arrow so you don't accidentally put it upside down later: Remove the top plate with the 4 little screws on top: Attach the plate to the underside of the smaller piece of the project box with tape in whatever position you prefer. I put mine as far to the right as possible. Make sure it's nice and tight and doesn't move: From the box underside, drill the 4 outer mounting holes through the plate using a bit as close as possible to the screws you bought. I used black machine screws but use whatever you prefer. Next drill a hole right in the center of the joystick hole (I used 1/4" bit for this). It needs to be large enough to support full movement of the joystick and RIGHT in the middle of the plate. Make sure the screws fit through the top side of the box and through the plate: Next, from the underside, drill a hole for the button. Make sure it's big enough for the button, but small enough for the button lip to catch and hold it in place. 15/16" worked great for me: Once the fit is confirmed, remove the joystick plate from the box and reattach to the joystick. Make sure it's level with the rest of the stick...mine had a tendency to shift a little clockwise. Attach the button using the button nut under the box. Tighten the joystick down with nuts as well. Next is by far the hard part, at least for me. You'll need to cut out a rectangle out of the back of the larger half of the project box for the DB9 terminal to stick out. I used a drill to start a hole and a little router + a bunch of files/rasps. A scrolling jigsaw might work better, not sure. It looks like crap, but works fine. Make sure the DB9 terminal can come through the hole completely so the metal backing is flush with the outside of the box. Don't worry if it's not tight, the 2 machine screws you got will hold it down just fine: Hold the DB9 terminal in position and drill two holes through the mounting holes...make sure the screws fit from the bottom side of the box: Remove the DB9 terminal (it's way easier to attach the wires). I added a bit of yellow duct tape to prevent a short from the nut, although I'm not sure if that matters. Attach the joystick wires according to this pinout (use the 'At the joystick cable' numbers, they line up perfectly with the DB9 terminal numbers if you got the same one I did). I had a couple of spare wires with female spade connectors for the button, but you can use any wire for that. Make sure you use the button terminals and not the LED terminals (use a multimeter). Make sure the wires are tightened down well in the DB9 terminal. The joystick and button ground should be wrapped together and both put in pin 8. Carefully put the DB9 terminal back in place and hand tighten the nuts...don't overdo it or you'll bend/break the board. Mine doesn't move at all and is nice and firm. You may notice that the buttons/joystick I linked both have LEDs in them. I didn't hook those up out of fear of ruining my Atari, but there is 5V pin on the DB9 from the Atari if you want to try. Carefully reattach and screw the project box back together. I attached some rubber feet I had laying around to the bottom -- make sure they are taller than the two screw heads for the DB9 terminal. I used the DB9 cable and attached to the box, and then attached that to the atari extension cable I linked just so I'm not constantly wearing out the atari port by plugging and unplugging controllers. Enjoy!

Sorry to dredge up this old thread, but where can one find the Best Electronics CX40 upgrade parts to purchase? I nearly had a seizure trying to navigate the Best Electronics website ( https://www.best-electronics-ca.com/joystick.htm#PCB ) looking for a purchase link.

Updating this for the benefit of others...it turns out the issue was neither the capacitor nor the reset switch itself. The little blue plastic connector that plugs into the board was actually the issue. I was never able to get a clean connection. When I manually bridged the two pins on the board everything worked fine. Tried cleaning it and the contacts with no luck. For kicks, I reattached it 180 degrees from normal and everything magically works perfectly now.

OK...so I actually have a Super Pong (C-140) and I've replaced this damn C14 capacitor 3 times now with no luck. I've also replaced the NC reset switch with no luck. Once or twice I was able to play with the score working, but usually it just zeros out. Obviously something is intermittent. I put a piece of metal between the capacitor conrtacts and held it in place and everything worked perfectly. Once I let it go, it's back to no scoring. Any suggestions on what to try next? At a loss here. One note is on my C-140 there is no resistor in the R12 spot. I guess that's normal for the C140?

Thanks!

Hello, sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm having the exact same issue and trying to replace C14 but need help finding the replacement part. Does the voltage matter? All the .001 uf capacitors I'm finding are 1000V. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks.