acromite53

Hey all! Spreading the word that an unopened copy of Commavid's "Video Life" for the 2600 is up for auction at Heritage Auctions. https://comics.ha.com/itm/video-games/atari/video-life-wata-94-ns-unopened-2600-commavid-1981-usa/a/7349-28003.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515

https://comics.ha.com/itm/video-games/atari/atlantis-ii-wata-certified-genuine-defend-atlantis-contest-copy-with-documents-2600-imagic-1982-usa/a/7307-28010.s?ic4=GalleryView-ShortDescription-071515 Heritage Auctions has a complete Atlantis II in the Signature Auction ending tomorrow! It includes all the original Imagic letters too. The set comes from the collection of a former contestant.

Ok. I fixed the internal cable. It was very loose and had snapped. I get video now! The 2600 appears to be working. So it was either the big capacitor or this cable that did the trick. Maybe both. Compared to my light sixer model, this heavy sixer has more noise in the video. I see thin vertical lines on the left side. There are also flickering speckles that dance around. Here are the pics. The first 2 pictures show the Heavy-Sixer video. The final picture shows clean video from my Light-Sixer. Thank you for the help, everybody!

I replaced the big capacitor. The old one may have been leaking slightly. Replacing it didn't seem to fix it. But didn't have much time to test before the brittle internal rf cable snapped off. Looks like the ground? part of the cable broke off the right connector.

Ok, just replaced the Voltage Regulator and the cap above it. Looks like I'm still getting the same issues as before.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. I'll post an update once it's installed.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I measured the input and output of the regulator. It seems to be give consistent cold readings. Cold: Input~10 Output~3.7 Warm about 10-15 min: Input~10.46 Output~4.57 But then once I measured it about 2 minutes after power on and it gave me really low results. Could have been a fluke? Input~6.5 Output~1.27

I have a light 6 switch vcs which works fine on the TV. The power supply works on both consoles. I am using an RCA to coax adapter. Yep I have experience in console repairs/soldering and I've got a multimeter. I've got the console open now looking for any obvious damage. https://console5.com/store/atari-2600-total-refresh-kit-new-capacitors.html I saw this which could be useful.

Hi everyone. I have a Heavy Sixer that isn't functioning correctly. Turning the console on with a game inserted will give either corrupted graphics, colored bars, or just a dark green screen. On Missile Command, the gameplay screen appears for 1 second before flickering out and turning to black. I have cleaned the game's pin. I tried inserting a clean cart with alcohol on it, in and out, to see if that would clean the pins. Have any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks for the help. I can post more pics or provide more info if needed.

Hi everyone. I found these today at a yard sale for $1 each. I was curious of their values. I've tested the computer carts but not the 5200 one yet. The 5200 cart has no label. Wish I had these when I was repairing my 400s! Thanks.

Hi everybody. I've got an Atari 400 with a keyboard that doesn't register 2,W,S,X, and Shift. I already swapped the 4051 and POKEY chip with known working ones so that isn't the issue. I did plug in a fully working keyboard from another unit and it worked fine in it. I was looking through old threads and found recommendations for myatari.com. It looks like the site is down for maintenance though. I'm not sure how long that has been offline. Does anybody here know if these are available anywhere else? Thanks guys. You've been a great help to me.

I had some time to test this fully disassembled. I tried grounding trig0 to pin 27 but couldn't get the fire button to register. Does this tell me that the chip is bad or that something else is going on? Thanks for all the help guys. I'm learning a lot.

I'm looking at the CPU card trying to find the GTIA. I'm not sure which one it is. There are 3 40 pin chips.

To ground that pin, could I run a wire from that pin to the metal shielding on the system? Then I could see if it is registering my button input?

Thanks everybody for the suggestions. I reseated all the chips on the CPU board (I didn't know which was the GTIA). I cleaned the connector of the card while I was at it. Put it all back together but still no response. Then something strange happened. I opened the lid while the system was on to change a game. This turned off the system and then resumed once the cartridge was in and the lid was down. Now I'm getting a bar of wavy blue and red line that scroll up the screen. They disappear when the fire button or a diagonal button is pressed. EDIT: looks like after turning it off and on a few more times, the line is gone

Hi everyone, I finally bought my first game for my Atari 400 and to my disappointment, I discovered that the controller button won't activate when pressed. The d-pad / joystick works fine though. P2 works just fine with all buttons. I opened up the console to check the connections. I checked the continuity from all the controller port pins to the board and all go through fine. There are no broken traces or corrosion anywhere. It seems that pin 6 is used for the action button so I followed it to the big row of resistors but didn't see anything wrong. If anyone has experience with these and would like to share info, that would be very helpful. Thank you!

Hey everyone! I haven't been around in a long time but I've got some stuff to talk about now. Back in May I saw a Craigslist ad for a Neo Geo MVS 2 slot for $500 with Samurai Shodown 3 and Metal Slug. I was willing to pay that so we drove for about 1.5 hours to meet up at a church who was selling it. Upon arrival, the man said that they thought it worked earlier but wouldn't turn on now. I was frustrated after he said that but we went inside to take a look at it. It got no power at all and no progress was made after messing around with it for a while. We then left to go eat where I made him an offer on the broken machine. The man accepted and I took it home for $150. Arcade machines are new to me so I had a difficult time figuring out what was wrong with it. Eventually I discovered that it was missing the main fuse and cap. We plugged a new fuse it and the machine powered up. The machine looked great except the monitor was wonky. Repairs and modifying needed to be done. A previous owner installed 4 directional joysticks for some reason. This prevented me from moving diagonal in any game. I ended up purchasing 2 IL Eurosticks and installing them. These are fantastic joysticks that feel perfect. Really high quality sticks. There were several wiring issues on the control panel with some buttons not even connected. I fixed all that so the next thing to tackle was the monitor. I did hours of research and posting on various forums to hopefully find a solution to my problem. I reflowed all of the solder points, replaced all the capacitors, and installed a new flyback to the monitor chassis. The flyback fixed my losing focus problem but the wavy screen issue still persisted. I was getting very frustrated but the great guys on the KLOV arcade forums helped me out a bunch and discovered that I had a simple wiring issue. After fixing that, I had a fully working Neo Geo MVS machine! I then ordered a 161 in 1 cart so I could play a bunch of those games. Since then, I've been playing a lot of Neo Geo games. So now I have a lot to talk about with those games. I'll try to post more here but it's difficult with school in full swing again and while keeping up with multiple forums.