Nebulon

When Joe mentions the Amiga, it might seem confusing because the Amiga is associated in people's minds with Commodore. However, the Amiga is essentially the successor to the Atari 800 and was designed independently because Atari's management in 1982 turned down Joe and Jay's proposal to make what we now know as the Amiga (what Joe refers sometimes to as "the third system" with the Atari 800 being the second system). See the following: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YqDOKXQk1w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DnLmEaIhpQ&list=PLOT5j3ELi5BY9abqksYqI4U9ZH07bOtIV http://www.blitter.com/~nebulous/amiga-articles.html

Joe Decuir addressed this question in an interview. The Atari 400 was intended to be a console. The membrane keyboard was attached in order to support games like Star Raiders, without the need to plug in a separate keypad.

After helping to edit two books on the history of the Amiga and digging through a ton of info from people like Joe Decuir, I can unequivocally say that the Amiga is indeed the successor to the Atari 800. It was the reason why Joe and Jay left Atari in the first place. Joe had completed the rough block diagram of what would become the Amiga back in 1982. Supporting information follows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YqDOKXQk1w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DnLmEaIhpQ&list=PLOT5j3ELi5BY9abqksYqI4U9ZH07bOtIV http://www.blitter.com/~nebulous/amiga-articles.html

You people are god-like. Thank-you!!

Hey, all I need is one more button so that I don't have to reach for the Space bar whenever I need to deploy a smart bomb in Defender.

Anyone know a good budget fighting stick for the Playstation 2 that works well for Pac-Man and Ms Pac-Man? I've tried a few brands of varying quality already, but the throw is too long -- making it tough to make the corners in the mazes.

Inspired by seeing vector classics like Gravitar and Major Havoc running too fast on the Xbox One, I decided to start this thread. The question is, what home ports of classic games do you think ended up being a disaster? It could be for any console from the SNES/Super Famicom on up to present day. In particular, the ones that I find most interesting are when the console clearly has the stats to bring the arcade experience home but, due to whatever reason (usually a lack of attention to detail on the part of the programmers or studio), just doesn't.

Anyone been successful getting the Chinon FZ-354 DS/DD 3.5" diskette drive working on an Amiga? If so, I don't suppose you could clue me in to as how you did it, could you? I've have two of the Japanese version of the FZ-354 and so far I've tried two different configurations: One with just J2 soldered closed. And the other with J18 closed and J20 open (J2 was left alone on this one). Both drives have their jumpers set to: DS0, MM, RDY, and TTL/C-MOS I'm trying to get either one of them working as DF0: on a stock Amiga 2000. So far, I've read every page in the following forum and no go (that's where the advice on soldering pins together came from): http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=30944&page=22 And, yes, I have a couple of working Amiga Gotek drives. However, I still like using diskettes.

Yet another good example of an Amiga 4000 put to the task back in the day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrMpyxBzwBA

And I see you can get a better price.... Someone's making new Amiga RGB cables: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-Monitor-RGB-Kabel-Cable-2-Meter-Analog/322844103990?hash=item4b2b021536:g:8lYAAOSwehZZ7jyj https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-RGB-Monitor-de-Cable-2-Metro-Analogico/323874465672?hash=item4b686c2788:g:-9wAAOSwSlBYwDsh

Well, for what it's worth, I tried the following and they all scanned both NTSC and PAL successfully -- using the matching Amiga RGB cable: Commodore 1080 (Toshiba), 1084 (Philips/Magnavox), 1084s (Daewoo), 1902 (Philips/Magnavox). Before you buy an RGB cable, be sure to check the back of the monitor to see if it's a DIN (round) or D-shell (rectangular-ish). Philips/Mag usually use these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-23-pin-female-to-6-pin-DIN-male-monitor-RGB-video-cable-Used/303332375571?hash=item46a004bc13:g:2rsAAOSwglldr-QK Daewoo monitors typically use D-shell: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-23-pin-female-to-9-pin-D-female-monitor-RGB-video-cable-Used/293292762956?hash=item44499c674c:g:QEEAAOSwIRhdr-Xt https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html

Does anyone know where I might be able to find a repair manual PDF for a Magnavox Commodore monitor? In particular, I'm thinking of the Magnavox 8CM515 (AKA the Commodore 1902A). Many eons ago, I watched someone repair this one (it was making a high-pitched noise). While working on it, he said that it was usually the backplane for the flyback transformer. He then placed the monitor on its front, took the rear cover off, and re-soldered 6 or 8 points with high-temperature solder. That same monitor worked fine for another 20 years. He's no longer in my neck of the woods, and I'm looking to have this monitor repaired again (since it started acting up just last week). If anyone has any tips or experience fixing flyback issues on 1080, 1084, or 1902 monitors, please feel free to post your wisdom here. I can then relay that to someone out here who might be able to get it up and running again. Here's a few links showing the type of monitor that I'm thinking of: http://classiccomputers.info/down/monitors/Magnavox_Professional_80_Model_8CM515.pdf https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html

Most 1084 monitors will display both NTSC and PAL. Assuming you're using the RGB cable to hook your Amiga 1200 up to the 1084s CRT, is it possible that you're sending AGA Workbench screen modes that are intended for a Commodore 1942 monitor? Those higher resolutions will also show up as black and white on a 1080 or 1084 display.

Well, if that's your preferred method, then you could try this little PAL utility: http://www.blitter.com/~nebulous/utilities.html Just run it from AmigaDOS and your machine will switch to PAL mode. I can't recall if I've tried it on an AGA machine. Pretty sure it works fine though.

The top two methods are: 1) Hold both mouse buttons when booting and choose PAL. 2) Boot with the Degrader utility diskette, select 50 Hz, click [Survive Reset], reboot.