RCA1802

Got my 3 today. Thanks Simius!

I have had a few 800s that have been sitting for years and I had to work a few keys quite a bit to get the contacts to start working again.

Hello, I have a 130xe which I have added a Sophia, Ultimate1MB and a UAV to and they work great, however I have noticed something odd with this machine, when I play cartridge games the audio is noisy and full of background static. I replaced the original ROMs and removed the Sophia board and it had no effect. I checked all my solder joints and I don't see anything damaged or cracked/lifted. I thought I might have damaged the GTIA when desoldering it because it got REALLY hot but it seemed to work fine after. I also replaced the audio opamp. I was messing around with my new Fujinet today and I loaded Donkey Kong from an .atr and it didn't have any static! I tested Star Raiders and Donkey Kong both from cart and still had static... I've checked all the traces and contacts and nothing seems to be amiss so I'm at a loss as to what the issue could be. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

I can't find any, it may have been vaporware. Convologic also advertised a device called the WAM cartridge which was like a regular cartridge but it was battery backed ram or something. I can't find any pictures or information on this device except that the Bytewriter software allows you to convert your dumped cart to the WAM cart's format..

Forgot to mention that mine didn't come with the manual but there is a PDF version at the Atari Museum: http://www.atarimuseum.com/computers/8BITS/3rdparty/Other/ByteWriter/index.htm It can burn 2716/32/64/128 as well as TI 2516/32/64 and Motorola 68764 (which is useful as this can be used as a drop in replacement for some commodore ROMS in their various machines.) There was also an adapter harness that allowed you to dump various carts however I haven't even been able to find a picture of this.

I recently acquired a Bytewriter EPROM burner, this is an EPROM burner for Atari 8-bits that uses 2 joystick ports as an 8-bit connection to the burner. I've had a saved search on eBay for years so when one finally came up I snapped it up I thought the enclosure would be metal but it's actually plastic. Inside is an 8035 microcontroller with a 2K EPROM and an 8255 parallel chip. I really like the software... I don't have a burner that can write 2532s so the Bytewriter is actually useful! Here I am burning an updated monitor EPROM for my SYM-1 SBC... The burner is SLOW compared to other ones I have but not too slow, it took about 5 minutes to write the 2532 The joystick connectors are recessed on the XE so the connectors won't fit, I had to hackup some gender changes to make extenders Attached are the ROM dump and an ATR of the software if anyone needs them. bytewriter8.17.BIN bytewriterA.ATR

I'll take 3! Get well soon

I was watching youtube videos and came across one with a guy who bought an Atari 400 at a yard sale, what I found interesting is that when he demoed Missile Command the 400 had the same lines on the left side of the screen as my 130xe. It seems this issue has been occurring since the beginning. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOrT6H2Wo9I

The power is still connected via the original jumper, I just bridged the 2 L5 pads with a piece of wire. I also cut the trace in 2 places and pulled up a piece to make sure it was a clean cut. I have a defender cartridge plugged in and I took the picture before the screen came up to get the clearest picture of the lines.

Ok I cut the trace and connected the 2 L5 pads and it seems to be worse, the banding is more distinct and now I can see faint banding on the other side of the screen but its barely visible in the attachment. I also left the ground wire on, tested, and then removed it with no effect. Thanks for the ideas though.

Thanks!

Here are pics of the top and bottom wiring jobs. Please forgive my crappy soldering skills, I've built kits (Cosmac ELF2K, Micro-KIM, Replica 1) and they all worked I promise! I cut the L5 pin connected to 5+ and bent it up, I then soldered a wire to the lead and covered it with shrink tube.

I connected L5 directly to the switch power pin and connected C1's ground pin to C50/51's ground with no change, the lines are still showing the same as before.

Sorry, I'm kind of confused, could you describe this fix in greater detail? I've found L5 on the schematic, when you say lift it do you mean remove it from the board, and then directly connect the video circuit to +5 from the power switch? Thanks for the help.

Hello, I recently acquired a 130XE that works great, the only problem is that there are faint bands/lines on the left side of the screen. I originally used an S-Video cable from eBay and thought the problem was with my LCD monitor, but they also show up when I use my Commodore 1084S Amiga monitor and a Chroma/Luma cable. I can adjust the color/contrast/brightness and that helps until the background color changes and they are visible again. After reading through the forums I found a few posts regarding 9 lines on the left side of the screen on a 5200 S-Video mod being "ANTIC noise during a DRAM refresh" and I am guessing I have the same problem. Anybody have any ideas on a fix? I have the later revision with 64x4 RAM. I've attached pics showing the lines, I turned up the contrast to make them more visible to the camera. Other Topic: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/218246-s-video-mod-9-vertical-lines-on-left-side/ Thanks!