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Everything posted by bfollowell

  1. I missed that last comment. Is it OK to have both? Sure, but to be completely honest, it's a complete waste of money. The AVG cart can do everything that the Ultimate Cart can do, and much more. There is absolutely nothing that the Ultimate Cart can do that the AVG Cart can't. And this is coming from a proud Ultimate Cart owner. I love mine. When I bought it almost three years ago, it was, hands down, the best multi-cart out there. It emulated more cartridge types than any other multi-cart and was much better in that respect than the AVG Cart, which came out a year or so after I bought my UC. Step forward 2+ years though and there has been almost zero development or improvement with the UC and almost non-stop development with the AVG Cart. It has by far surpassed the Ultimate Cart in terms of features and the number of cartridge types that it will emulate. My UC still does exactly what I need to it to do, and with @flashjazzcat's menu system, I love it, but if I were going to buy a multi-cart anytime from about a year ago on, there's no way I would've considered anything other than the AVG Cart. It's cheaper to boot. In my opinion, the only thing the UC has over the AVG is a much nicer, better looking menu system, but that's more aesthetics than actual function.
  2. I'm pretty sure The Ultimate Cart will run rom files, but I'm not sure about the AVG Cart. Either way, it isn't a good idea to run rom files anyway. Even if it works, the cart is making it's best guess as to what cartridge type the rom file is, and it may not always guess correctly. A car file is just a rom file with a few extra byte header telling the multi-cart/emulator/whatever, what type of cartridge the rom file is from and how to use it. There are plenty of places to download proper car versions of pretty much every 8-bit cart ever made. You can also easily make them yourself from your rom files using a simple html tool. You select what cartridge type the rom file is from a list and then it adds the correct header information and saves is as a car file. I'd have to look for that utility to tell you where to get it, as I don't recall now where I got it. Honestly though, your best bet is to just download Mr Robots Cartridge Collection from here. There may be a few rom files in there, but if there are, there are very few. Almost all of these are proper car files, and that's really what you should be using with an Ultimate Cart or an AVG Cart. As far as converting atr or cas files to xex, I'm not sure. I think it can be done, but I'm not sure how. I'm fairly certain you can't make a rom or car file out of them because they didn't come from a cartridge. I've seen some pretty wild things on here though, so I could be wrong about that. Good luck Ray.
  3. Luckily, they look like a pretty easy card to put together. Of course, anything seems easy after assembling a 1088XEL or XLD motherboard! I look forward to watching the progress.
  4. Beautiful machine. I hope to get mine cleaned up and looking this good, other than the hacked up hole in the back of the case, of course. I thought I'd heard rumors of a 400 Incognito under development, and I've been Googling for info, but haven't had a lot of luck. I checked Lotharek's site too, thinking that would be the logical place to find info but, unless I missed it, there isn't anything there either. I did see a page for Incognito 2 under development, but there was no info at all, so I'm not sure if that's it or not. Do you have any links for info on the 400 Incognito, or is there just no info out there yet, other than the fact that it's development was announced? Thanks.
  5. I'll have to keep that in mind. I'm sure there are far more games than I remember that use artifacting, but I don't recall seeing it all that much in the games I typically played. Also, I don't use CRT monitors or TVs, so it's kind of a moot point either way.
  6. It's not from ebay, and I didn't buy it, but I'll be receiving an Atari 400 this weekend. I never even thought I wanted one, but this one was gifted to me completely free. I didn't even pay for shipping. Now that it's on the way, I'm super excited about it. I was told that it works, and from the looks of the hatchet job on the back of the case, it looks to be composite video/audio modded. I'll probably clean it up really well and replace the composite mod with a Super Color CPU Card and install a 48/52K RAM Card and that'll probably be it.
  7. I have a 400 coming that should be delivered Saturday afternoon or Monday. I hadn't really thought that I wanted one, but then this one just sort of fell into my lap, and now that it has, I'm super excited about it. I just made a stray comment on a thread about not being able to pickup a free one because it was too far away and a super-nice fellow AA member just offered to send me one. How could I refuse? My first computer was an 800 and I moved on to an 800XL in college, which I still have, but I only ever ran across one 400 out in the wild. A high school friend had one. I love the look of the keyboard and that retro-70s-futuristic look it has. It looks sort of like something you'd see on a base in the Aliens universe. I'm excited to get it and add its serial number to the growing list here. The fellow AA member who gave it to me sent me some pictures. I'm pretty sure he said that it worked well, but that it was just in OK shape and he thought it was composite modded. From the pictures, the keyboard looks to be in pretty good shape. All in all, it's just a little dirty. It needs a really good deep cleaning and hopefully not a whole lot more. The rear picture did show two RCA jacks showing through a square hole in the back of the case. It looks like someone enlarged the original RF cable hole for their composite mod. I'm assuming the second RCA jack is an audio output. It's not the best case mod I've seen, but I guess it could've been a lot worse and, luckily, it's on the rear. If it's working well, I'll probably just clean it up really well and possibly install @tf_hh's Super Color CPU Card and 48/52k RAM Card. EDIT: Actually, when I look back through this thread, I see that the member I'm getting it from already added one about three years ago. I'm assuming it is the same one I'm getting, but maybe not. Thanks again @adamchevy!
  8. Hey @Zeptari1, I'm glad you found the old girl a new home. I'm glad I posted about it too, because now I'm getting one, thanks to @adamchevy! What a great bunch we AA members are!
  9. I'd be worried about backwards compatibility with all those "extras", but holy crapola, what a beautifully upgraded machine! This is one of those do it because you can, not because you need it, instances. Thanks for sharing!
  10. How in the world did a thread about the Atari 400 membrane keyboard get hijacked into a discussion about various BASICs?
  11. I believe what you're referring to is the original RF signal, not the composite signal. When you install the UAV, you remove the 4050 chip and replace it with the UAV. This improves the original composite signal and also give you S-Video, but you lose the original RF output. However, if you piggyback the UAV on top of the 4050 chip, rather than replacing it, you will keep the original RF output. No, it does not. It improves the original composite signal and also gives you an S-Video output.
  12. Wow! That just goes to show why we AA members are the best. I'll have to find a way to pay it forward in the future. Thank you very much!
  13. See if you can get an idea what shipping to Evansville, IN would run me. What condition is she in? Running? Thanks for considering.
  14. That's a shame. I'd love to give this classic a good home, but I'm way too far away to even consider. I'm sure you'll find someone that'll give her a good home though.
  15. So, pads 1, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15 & 19 have all at least partially lifted. Seeing as there is no through-hole barrel and these were just surface pads, I really shouldn't be so surprised. Still, I was really surprised by the sheer number of pads that lifted. I haven't had this much trouble in all of the time I've been repairing boards. Looking at pad 19, the one that lifted completely off the board, as near as I can tell, it isn't even connected to anything, so I'm really not sure what that one's even for. Do any of the rest of you see anything I don't? Is pad 19 connected to anything?
  16. Well, I did go ahead this evening and soldered up the motherboard-side connector PCB. It went well. I went ahead and removed the old ribbon cable from the keyboard PCB. Some the old traces on the keyboard PCB are not quite as resilient as the traces on the main motherboard. Between desoldering the ribbon cable and soldering the header pins in for the new flex-PCB, several traces have lifted, so I'm going to have to cut some jumpers and do some patching later. I'm still determined to get this keyboard back in good operating shape though.
  17. The weather is getting more mild, so I thought I'd go out into my garage workshop and work on putting this cable assembly together to get my keyboard going again. Holy Guacamole! Am I ever shaky and trembly!! I knew I was getting more so for fine work as I'd gotten older, but I had no idea until I saw it under a soldering microscope! I know everything under there is magnified, but sheesh! Anyway, I bought an Andonstar AD407 soldering microscope and that helped much more than my magnifying goggles. Also, this was my first try at SMD. I didn't try drag soldering or any of the techniques I'd seen on Youtube. I just tacked the connector down with one pin on each end, then went slowly and methodically across, pin by pin. I had to fix a couple of solder bridges, but other than that, I don't think I did too bad. I checked continuity from the connector to the end of the molex cable, and everything looks good, with no shorts except for pins 18 & 19 and 20 & 21, which seem to be shorted by the board, and not my shaky hands. Soldering the keyboard PCB to the keyboard shouldn't be too bad. Those are much larger, more normal soldering and I shouldn't mess those up too bad, shaky hands or not. I just need to get the motherboard side connector board soldered and the old keyboard connector desoldered and the new keyboard connector soldered in its place and I'll be ready to try it out. I'm not sure I'm up for any more today though. I'm not sure my old nerves could take the stress. I think I'll wait and get the motherboard connector one day during the week. I should have it going again soon though. I bought a 12" molex cable too, so I shouldn't have any trouble having plenty of slack to pull the keyboard and motherboard apart in the future, regardless of whether or not I actually disconnect the cable.
  18. Now I'm intrigued. What is Connect95-97-98?
  19. I'm not so sure about this part, anymore at least. I think the current version came out about three years ago and, if there's been an update since then, I haven't been able to find out any information about through official or unofficial sources.
  20. Well, he's got APE working with his physical drive and he's making copies that way, but he still can't ProSystem to work, and that's really odd. APE recognizes the SIO2PC-USB, but ProSystem doesn't. But he has it copying now, and that's the main thing.
  21. You don't do anything in APE as far as your physical drive. You assign your real drive to drive 1, or whatever number you want it to be, using the switches in the back just like you normally would. Then you assign any other virtual drives you're using their drive numbers and insert the disk images to them using APE, then you boot off your real physical drive just like you normally would. Or you could boot off of a virtual drive and have your real drive setup as 2 or 3 or whatever. All you do in APE is setup your virtual drives. You assign your physical drive's numbers with it's switches just like you always have. You can have any number or combination of real and virtual drives. The only thing APE does is control the virtual drives. If it were me, I'd put Disk Wizard in disk #1 in APE, assign your 1050 as drive #2, and then maybe a blank floppy image in disk #3. That's assuming that Disk Wizard actually allows you to use more than 2 drives. I know it worked with 2, but I can't recall if it would work with more than that. If it doesn't for some reason, I'd boot off of Disk Wizard in drive #1 in APE, have your 1050 assigned as drive #2, and then swap a blank floppy image into drive #1 after booting and copy from drive 2 to drive 1. I'm working off the top of my head here and decades old memories of using Disk Wizard II.
  22. You can't just check there, because those links to the main listings never change. You also need to check the addendum page to see if the stock status or the price has changed. The link is below. Luckily, the Pokey chips still show in stock, though limited to 1, and still for $20. https://www.best-electronics-ca.com/addendum.htm
  23. You can't beat Fluke meters for quality and features. You do pay for those though. They do have some cheaper models though, if you don't need a full-blown industrial meter. They have quite a few that would be good for an electronics workbench for $100-$150. I've heard some decent things about some of the Extech meters, and many of those have capacitor/diode/transistor checking capability and are considerably cheaper than most Flukes, but I have no direct experience with them myself.
  24. I looked back through my old emails and the AtariMax forums. I couldn't find much other than to make certain to use one of the USB ports on the back of your computer, the ones coming directly from the motherboard, not one of the ones from the hub on the front of your PC. Also, make certain to get rid of anything non-AtariMax related as far as drivers. Beyond that, I really don't have anything. Sorry, I thought I'd have more to offer.
  25. Yeah, there's really no need to use the ProSystem, but if you're like me, you still want it to work correctly. It is very strange that one works and the other doesn't. I can't remember if that was my issue, or if nothing worked. I remember once, having a lot of trouble getting one or the other or both running, and I finally got it. Then later, my SIO2PC-USB single-port wouldn't do anything and nothing I or Steve tried or he suggested would work. We finally determined that it had just died. I returned it to him and he sent me a dual-port version just because that's all he had in stock at the moment. He was really great to work with, but he can be very hard to get in touch with. He has a very busy life at the moment and hasn't been working with Atari stuff as much lately. I think he has kids at home, so I can certainly understand that. With no kids at home anymore, it's easy to forget how busy family life can be at times. My grandkids are taking up more and more of my time though, so some of the freedom I've had for the past several years is going towards them now, but I'm not complaining. I'll try to look into my past issue this week and see if I still have any old emails from Steve and will check his forums as well.
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