emerson

I used a pair of dial calipers. If you get dial calipers spend the money on namebrand ones. I can't speak on digital calipers. I think the pencil and paper drawing is an excellent start. That's actually something I should start doing. Your measurements are very close to mine.

Well, you were right... I broke the big tab. Besides that it came out fine. I also removed the rubber boot before attempting to remove the ring. Attached is the step file for the part according to my measurements. It is freely available for personal, non-commercial use. Note that when looking at the ring with the medium height tab closest to you, or at 6 o'clock, the clip directly to the medium tab's right side is not symmetrically spaced like the other tabs are. It's a bit closer to 3 o'clock. I'll need to put the 0.2mm nozzle on my printer before I try printing it which is a project for another day. Looking at the amount of space available for the clips/tabs I think they could be beefed up a bit to accomodate potential failures caused by the part being 3d printed. CX40_CO12110.step

Thank you for the disassembly instructions! I will try this later tonight.

I'm willing to look into it. At the very least I can provide a 3d model of the part.

The following are now claimed. MS Office 4.3 disks, MS Access 1.1 disks, Lotus Metro, and the Macintosh disks. Still plenty more available!

Windows OS's, PC Tools, all games, all 720KB disks, and 50 or 100 (yet to be determined) 1.44MB disks are gone. Still about 300+ 1.44MB disks and all Apple/Machintosh formatted disks are available.

I'm starting to feel like 1200XL M.U.L.E.'s shadow here... I have 3.5" floppy disks available for the cost of shipping. I weigh counted them at 564 disks but there are some more floating around. I have both 720KB and 1.44MB disk sizes. Some of them say 1.0MB or 2.0MB but I assume that is the unformatted size. Various densities are available as well. Most of them are IBM formatted. I cannot guarantee the software and games aren't corrupt. I also have boxes and labels if you need them. Take as many or as few as you want, just pay shipping. These will be available until mid May when they go to the curb for Spring Cleanup. Games (real disks not copies) include: - Dragon Wars - Lemmings w/ manual - Quest for Glory II: Trial By Fire (9 disks) Possibly useful software (real disks not copies) include: - Windows 3.0 OS (7 disks) - Windows 3.1 OS (6 disks) - Microsoft Office Professional v4.3 (31 disks) - Microsoft Office v4.0 (16 disks) - Microsoft Access v1.1 (7 disks) - PC Tools v6 (3 disks) - Lotus Metro - Prodigy v1.2 - Trident TV8900D VGA Driver - Borland Superkey - Quicken for Windows v1.01 (3 disks) - Asymetrix Runtime Toolbook (2 disks) Eventually I will have 5.25" floppies available as well but I am looking for a drive so I can create backups and format them before I give them away. Please let me know if you have one available.

Found, thanks everyone!

I found this video a while back demonstrating how to test film capacitors to decrease noise interference while in circuit. I recently used the information on my Eico 232 and Sencore TC162 rebuilds. Not likely applicable to vintage consoles but useful information none the less. Hopefully others find this useful as well. The test procedure starts around 8:06 but I encourage you to watch the introduction as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnR_DLd1PDI

This is correct. I looked back at my notes and every keyboard that I could read defaulted to scancode 2. I had converted everything to scancode 3 in my project which is probably why I thought scancode 3 was most common as I dealt with it most. My apologies.

Here are two approaches to the problem. One uses indirect addressing and the other uses the RTS Trick. No guarantees they are %100 correct but this should set you in the right direction. If you only care to support one scancode type, it would be wise to initialize the attached keyboard to use that set of scancodes and ensure the keyboard actually supports it. From my experience scancode 3 was the most common in the dozen or so keyboards I tested (spanning several decades of manufacture dates) but not all keyboards default to scancode 3 on power up. Also, not all keyboards support all scancode sets. Just a thought. Further reading: https://wiki.nesdev.com/w/index.php/RTS_Trick http://www-ug.eecg.toronto.edu/msl/nios_devices/datasheets/PS2 Keyboard Protocol.htm Example Code: example_6502_lookup_tables.asm

Use the scancode as an offset for a lookup table of subroutine addresses. This will allow equal execution time for any input value. Because you will need to left shift the scancodes to calculate the table offset, you will need two tables. One for scancodes 0-127 and the other for scancodes 128-255. I haven't looked at scancodes for a while and forget how high they actually go. You may also want separate table sets for scancodes 1 2 and 3, or have tables that convert undesired scancodes to the desired one. I did that in my PS/2 -> NES converter. I can provide an example code when I get home from work.

I received both the Sanyo pvm and the PL-259 connectors from my late grandfather's radio room. He was a HAM operator and used the PL-259s for his radio equipment. I don't know what bandwidths he operated in but that would give an idea of the application frequencies.

The tumorous metal thing sticking off the back looks like an Amphenol PL-259 to BNC adapter. I cannot speak for the SOL-20 but my Sanyo VM4509 uses PL-259s for standard composite video input and output. I made a passive PL-259 to RCA cable and it works without issue.

Yes, just make sure you do not exceed the drive/source current of the inverter. Sometimes for line drivers the datasheet will make it easy and explicitly state how many gates the output can drive.

The mouser link is the breadboard compatible module I use. The datasheet is for the chip itself. That was a bit confusing so I apologize.

I knew there was an older version of the 16550 but couldn't think iof it. I'm glad you found it. I'm not totally sure how the MAX232 does it either but I can verify that they work. Some kind of charge pump oscillator? This may detract from a retro build but this FTDI module is nice. It offers full 9 pin serial support over USB. It supports RS232, RS422 and RS485. I started using it a few months ago and I like it so far. http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/ICs/DS_FT231X.pdf https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FTDI/LC231X/?qs=Mv7BduZupUhUgQqAlkLw8A%3D%3D

What about something like the 16450 or the 16550? I'm sure the people over at VCF could scare some up for you. Or try and hunt down some RS232 ISA cards... As for a DIY glue logic solution, that could get tough. You would need to recognize the 150% pulse width of the start bit to initiate your receiver and counter, then count 8 units of time (depending on your baud rate) and shift the data into a buffer on each count. The stop bit could clock the buffered data onto your parallel bus, or the data is shifted onto your bus and the stop bit clocks it into the receive register. Remember that RS232 has both positive and negative voltages so some type of level conversion as well as dual rail power supply is required.

The idea was a skateboarding game and the SNES controller would mimic the PS1 controller layout used for the tony hawk games. I have some other games to finish first though.

Yeah, I had to make that disclaimer since I just whipped the circuit up while I was at work, came home and drew it in kicad. The rom is designed for full SNES controller support, so yes the extra buttons work correctly. You can try it out with fceux as that emulator has SNES controller support. The rom has been tested on a real NES and it works. It would allow you to visualize what buttons the SNES would see from the modded joystick in SNES mode.

nes_advantage_snes_mod.pdf Something like the schematic above should work for what you are trying to do. It's actually quite simple. All you would need to do is lift a few pins on the existing 4021 shift register, piggyback a second 4021 on top of it and run some jumper some wires. If you cut the traces around the 1/2 player switch you can use that as the DPDT and switch between NES and SNES modes. You may not need to remove the A and B resistors, just cut the traces at the right spot. The resistor tied to U2 D7 is still required. You will want to tie U2 D4-D6 high to represent unpressed X, L, and R buttons, and tie U2 D0-D3 low to identify this as an SNES controller. This circuit has not been tested and you are doing this mod at your own risk. If you would like it done but don't have the means, shoot me a pm. This is a rom I wrote that tests SNES controllers on the NES. You could use this to determine which button presses the SNES would see and verify the modded joystick works as intended. http://www.romhacking.net/homebrew/136/

DTV is Digital TeleVision and CATV is CAble TeleVision. You want CATV as this implies analog video. If there is an option for ANTenna you want that instead. If you haven't yet, you will need to rescan your channels with the console turned on and connected. If you tried that and still can't get past ch69 then I suggest trying the cables suggested by Steven in post #4. Also, double check that the center conductor of the coax cable is not shorted to the new connector and that the new connector is making good contact with the coax shield wires.

Bluejay gives the channels at the end of post #5. You may have to rescan your channels with the console turned on and connected to the rf input.

If you check the electrical isle at your local big box hardware store they might have some as well.

Yes that is the chip I was referring to. The bootgod link I posted above has the part number I was looking for though, the 74ls377.