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LarryL

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Everything posted by LarryL

  1. LarryL
    Just sold one set of bare PCBs to somebody in Germany (started selling off the remaining 4 sets) so maybe one more to join soon 🙂
  2. LarryL
    Hi @uji thanks, just waiting for the deliveries of the Pi4 (have chosen the 2G version) and the PiStorm most probably both will not arrive until Friday, so I will join the party a bit later Will also join the Discord channel then regards Michael
  3. LarryL
    Hi, just ordered a PiStorm to start playing around, testing, having fun… I have an Exxos H5 available… one question: which version of the Pi4 is required? I mean, what RAM size - 1G, 2G, 4G or even 8G? cheers Michael
  4. LarryL
    It wasn’t utsource, but a seller from UK - eBay name „myretrostore-uk“ this is via a AV2HDMI converter, not the one you recommended, but another Chinese model (but without S-Video) will do some more video tests during the week (the other converter, direct connection to TV, etc.) Will also run all the test Programms you provided, to check if all is good (Joystick and Keyboard are basically working)
  5. LarryL
    Success! changed the LM1889 and now I have color 🙂 will do some further tests with different screens and adapters
  6. LarryL
    Tomorrow I will receive one from UK - let’s see. in the meantime I am checking (3rd time) solder joints, shorts, values, etc. 🙂 I will also receive spare VDPs from China during next weeks I will do some screenshots during next days and post them I will also scope the different clock signals and post the pictures
  7. LarryL
    yepp, working on it from time to time (but having limiter spare time actually) will write some details later just in short: having tested two Converters: the one you showed on you web page does not show any picture at all - not via CVBS and not via S-Video another one, having only CVBS shows a picture with strange colours, mostly yellow I might have a fake LM1889 - need to check in more details regards Michael
  8. LarryL
    Yepp, I have ordered exactly this a few days back but it is coming from China - will take a while Used to be available at Amazon Germany - but out of stock now
  9. LarryL
    Oh, I do not have a 3D printer I used a professional service to get it printed. Not the cheapest (not from China, but close to my hometown here in Germany) put the result is always good quality I will surely post some more pictures, once the resistor arrays arrive the AV adapter will show up at some point of time 🙂
  10. LarryL
    Ok, got the resistor networks out, using the process from above video worked surprisingly well. they did not fall out immediately, but with a little bit of wiggling they have lost the battle now I need to wait for the new resistor arrays to arrive did some case work in the meantime. needed to remove a bit of PLA with a Dremel at the front inner side of the case (as described in one of the above posts) now the back panel goes in smoothly also melted the M2.5 threaded inserts into the top of the case - but this will require longer screws compared to e.g. the XEP-80 II seems that M2.5x30mm will fit Keypad also fits very well - Used small M2.5 screws to secure it
  11. LarryL
    Wow, that’s a pretty awesome trick
  12. LarryL
    Yeah, it is really tight in this area… seems I got confused by the BOM I have downloaded some weeks ago and took an existing 9p RN from my stock No problem, I will manage… BTW: since the system works even with the 9p RN, I gave it a try - and it booted right the first time 🙂 of course I did the voltage checks upfront (without chips) got confused a second, measuring 12V at the CD4066 - but checking the schematics proves that this is right 🙂 now I have to find my AV2HDMI adapter, because my PAL LCD shows quite funny colors trying to display NTSC I know I bought one recently and also successfully used it with another NTSC project (the N8 from retrobrewcomputers.org) - but where is it? at least the CV-NUC shows a picture and I was able to play a short round of Donkey Kong 🙂 Joystick and Keypad works, Sound works… so far so good Had some problems with the QUAD board initially - no USB device detected. but after checking and reflowing the SMD chip, all went well and I got it programmed but first I have to fix the resistor arrays, then I will do some more intensive checks with the test ROMs you provided (copied them already to the Atarimax Cart) it is really a great project, all fitting so nicely together - a really excellent design @mytek
  13. LarryL
    right, used the machine sockets I already had laying around. had some bad experience with cheap Dual wipe sockets recently… thought you designed it intentionally 🙂 was a perfect fit with the two bars! but during checking, I figured out a mistake I did: since I did not read the build manual carefully enough, I added the wrong RN1,2 - 9pin, not 8pin I then used SMD 10k resistors on the back from the 9th pin to pin 10 of the LS541 (not from the empty pin to pin 10) stupid… although the silk screen shows exactly a 8pin resistor array Now I have to try to get the RN1,2 out again without damaging stuff…
  14. LarryL
    Yeah, I had the parts in my stock and was too lazy to check/compare them against the BOM… but I got them quite quickly and was able to complete the board today 🙂 tomorrow is „smoke test“ 🙂
  15. LarryL
    So, finally started - and progressing still waiting for some parts, since I have realized that some of my parts did not perfectly fit. like the DC barrel jack (way to large pins) and the DB9 (mine have sockets for screws) and yes, I have read the post, that the barrel jack pins are a tight fit - but mine do not really have pins, but way larger „soldering lugs“ Anyway, satisfied so far… …will it boot first time? Let’s see 🙂 edit: now the whole bunch…
  16. LarryL
    not probably, for sure PAL 🙂 as written in my initial post I also mentioned the „PAL color burst“ circuit anyway, I will follow your advice to clean the board as good as possible and then do intensive inspections again one side question: the main clock circuit has two crystals, one for PAL and one for NTSC Is it safe to install both of them and use only the jumper to select between them? or is it better to leave out the NTSC crystal, if I am using PAL anyway?
  17. LarryL
    what‘s the „little extra work“, please?
  18. LarryL
    ok, will have a cleaning session over the weekend… the Antics I have are either C014887-01 or -03 no -37 available didn’t know that they will cause problems… re jumpers: besides „No VBXE“ I had of course the NTSC/PAL jumper in the PAL position and the „MIDI En“ jumper in place, because I have both Level 1 and 2 boards equipped
  19. LarryL
    Thanks for the detailed answers @mytek - appreciate your effort in helping the builders but I think I went through all this already - and yes, @DrVenkman I read about your „diode experience“ has been the 1st thing I have checked :-) I compared every component value and orientation, checked and (partly) resoldered all joints. I checked continuity of (I think) each and every connection, including checking for shorts during the checks I replaced some of the suspicious components (esp where I did not buy brand new ones but took them from my stock, some of them rather old) during these replacements, I must have ruined at least one connection I was even spending a few hours and comparing datasheets for the PN2222 transistors - there seem to be different versions existing (2N2222 and PN2222) with different pinouts I think I replaced the transistors 2 times… and yes, I used a jumper on pins 1/2 of the VBXE header, before I added the VBXE of course, my final goal is to repair what’s wrong. so, using the VBXE and PAL burst PCB would just be an intermediate step to rule out this part Let’s see… Cheers Michael
  20. LarryL
    Hi, after returning from holiday travel, I continued with troubleshooting my XLD build. somehow it is not working, I.e. it seems to boot but does not give me a picture. Seems, both of the clock circuits do not work properly. having a PAL system… the system clock showed something about 3.7 to 4MHz - not stable at all on my oscilloscope since I am planning to add a VBXe anyway, I added it since VBXe should at least replace the system clock. result was, that the system started, but to a solid red screen (via composite and S-Video) I remember that „red screen“ means RAM Problem, but changing the UM61512 did not change anything Checking PAL color burst again showed nothing - no clock at all. Might have killed something else. now to my question: I could use the PAL color burst PCB from my 576NUC+ would this work? if I desolder Q2 and R12 this should isolate the PAL burst from the Mainboard, right? BTW: I am aware of your warnings, @mytek that this is not an easy build - you were absolutely right. But I won’t give up 🙂 BTW2: all other chips (esp the custom chips) as well as UAV and U1MB are known working in my 1088XEL cheers Michael
  21. LarryL
    Very nice build @AtariGeezer - beautiful good luck with your first boot I have also progressed quite well… all assembled, including front plate - fits exactly how it should but I am still in the Troubleshooting Phase - system does not boot… well, it seems to boot, but picture is either strange (sometimes scrambled and sometimes inverted) or even black I am also having troubles with my PIC - they are older and already used. Programming with PICKIT3 looked successful, but if I use the Joy2Pic-Stick and the XEX I get verify errors very quickly. So I need to wait for new PIC (still not easy to source these days)
  22. LarryL
    PCBs arrived - black beauties…
  23. LarryL
    slowly we are getting there… Did you know, that the U1MB from Lotharek is now coming in a really nice black? not the white PCB anymore fits very well to my black 1088XLD 🙂 unfortunately UAV is still in white and Wavetable S2 is now in green - but, hey, still looks extremely good all together now to programming all the PICs, inserting the ICs and creating a Video Cable… I expect to get it booting until Sunday - let’s see…
  24. LarryL
    Good advice, cool until now my case is still empty, so I just quickly put the back inside and dropped the top on the bottom nothing is screwed together, yet just wanted to get an impression, how the case will look like but, yes - it seems to be a tight fit I remember, when assembling the 576NUC+ it was also pretty tight…
  25. LarryL
    exactly, in the meantime I have found your flickr album - and the photos helped a lot
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