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Not that I'm aware of. BTW, for those curious, the disks were sent to The Strong Museum of Play last week - that's the destination for all the Atari ephemera, etc. that I've been archiving. g.

I was guessing at the target based on a few of the source files I looked at. When you're hard pressed for time and imaging hundreds of disks, mistakes get made. g.

While going through the 5.25" media in the vintage computer collection I got a few years ago, I ran across 5 unlabeled 5.25" disks, all stuffed into a single sleeve. The contents appeared to be the complete source code for the Atari ST version of "Hard Drivin'". The disks can be found here: https://archive.org/details/game-source-atari-st-hard-drivin If anyone knows the author (Juergen Friedrich), please point them at that link. I'm sure they'd love to see that code again. Thanks folks. g.

Got it, thanks folks! g.

I've got a few of these boards and I'm trying to identify them: The photo above is the front & back of the same board. The "GX2ROM" and "A050833" numbers aren't getting any hits on Google. Any ideas? Thanks! g.

You'd lose that bet, sunshine. Nor did I go through and paw at anything. g.

Sadly, I don't have a Sega Genesis to check one of these with - even if I could force myself to break one of the panels up. g.

An Atari 2600 Jr. console, https://www.ebay.com/itm/203876002407. Before I got this thing, I had no idea they even existed! g.

I've finally reached the point where I'm selling things from the vintage rescue I did a couple of years ago. First relevant thing that folks here might be interested in is an uncut panel of original Atari cartridge PCBs. They've been wave soldered and have sockets & capacitors installed. Auction is [ebay]203875958145[/ebay]. (and since that didn't work for whatever reason, here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203875958145 :D ) Thanks! g.

Has the MPR-15043 part been definitively identified as Dune, or is it something else? I've got a few uncut, populated panels of Sega cartridge PCBs with masked ROMs matching that part number, but I've not been able to identify it. Here's an image of one of the boards: Thanks! (and sorry for dragging open a year+ old thread!) g.

These are all 5.25" disks. I haven't started processing the 8" media yet. g.

I've been going through and imaging Atari disks recently from the vintage computer rescue I did a couple of years ago. These disks might have some interest to you folks: http://annex.retroarchive.org/disks/Atari/Forth-Disks/ The filenames match the labels on the disks - I don't know squat about Forth, but I hope someone will find them useful! g.

So treat it like it was a Mac. Got it. You're welcome! g.

So leaving it stuffed under a table running a BBS would be a bad thing? ? g.

Here's a video that shows the process. I didn't know until today that it appears that not only did the 1400XL use the same keyboard as the 1200XL, but it looks like the same case too. g.

I was shocked too! I had no idea it would do that. During the editing process, it dawned on me that the funny honking sound was the voice chip being initialized when the machine is first powered on. g.

That's what I did after peeling the Mylar. It went from only the top row to working, to about 95% of the keys working. The rest were brought back to life with repeated key presses. The return key took the most work and the equals key is the lone holdout. Hopefully the heat-shrink spacer ring trick will solve the issue. I'm going to have to make myself a little jig for cutting the spacers. g.

The keyboard mylar is 100% working, so I won't need to replace it. I even managed to peel it without tearing the silicone layer. I was very careful with it and only stripped it back to the connector, but not the connector itself. I used a document clip and a popcicle stick to prevent accidentally "over-peeling" it. A commenter on my video has likely provided a solution to the problem. They suggested putting 2mm wide rings of 2.5mm heat shrink tubing under the back side of the little rubber hammers on each key. This should provide enough lift to allow the little hammer to properly press on the Mylar with enough force to reliably activate the key press. g.

Anyone have a 1200XL keyboard for sale? g.

Well some nutter just paid $9589 for a keyboard on eBay, so.... (and if the person that bought that keyboard is reading this and it's NOT going to be reunited with the machine it was designed for, it's my fervent hope that you come to a very bad, painful, and lingering, end.) g.

Thanks! I LOVE using waxed lacing cord. It makes for a much better wiring harness IMO. I'm pretty sure I've got enough if various widths that it will last me until the heat death of the universe. g.

"Yes". Also Eagle Owner. See https://www.f15sim.com I've found that maintainers are a lot more fun to talk to than the pilots. g.

Probably the best advice in the whole thread, although I appreciate all the things you folks have told me. g.

It's going to boil down to selling it keeping it in my collection. I never started out being interested in Atari stuff, but now I find myself with a lot of it. I think right now I'm at 3 Atari 400's, 2 or 3 800's, a PAL 800XL, a NIB 600XL, a boxed 65XE and a boxed XEGS. Plus I think there's probably four 1050 drives and I think I recall seeing an 810. I've also got what I've been told is an un-released version of De Re Atari. The person that I got all this stuff from did 8 bit game development and also worked at Atari Coin-Op. I sourced a three rail power supply and the right DIN connector, so if nothing else I'll know if the machine works or not. g.

Ooof. Thanks for the info. Now I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. I should probably procure a power supply for it and see if it works. g.