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About livingonwheels

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  1. I took the shielding out of my composite modded 7800 and put it into the 7800 with the controller interference. All the controller interference went away! No shielding doesn't seem to affect my composite modded console, so I guess I'll leave things as they are. It seems having no shielding will affect RF output for some reason (my composite modded 7800 has no RF anyway).
  2. I tried with a 2600 controller - same issue. Both controller ports - same interference. I tried the controllers in another 7600 (composite modded though) and don't have this issue. There is no shielding in this 7800 though.
  3. Can anyone explain why this Atari 7800 has a clear picture (as far as RF is concerned) but as soon as I plug in an Atari 7800 controller (or even a standard Atari 2600 controller), interference occurs. See the below pictures for before and after. I noticed that the closer the controller is to the console, the worse the interference. Edit: I just opened the console and noticed there is no shielding at all. Could that be the issue? I thought I've had other 7800s with no shielding, but perhaps I'm not remembering correctly. Where would I start in order to see if that's the issue?
  4. After a time it does boot the game (as shown in the picture below, Donkey Kong). I can use the controllers and move my character, but barely make out what I'm seeing. Sound effects are fine too. I tested my power supplies for the correct voltages ( I have 3 working power supplies) and it still has the same behavior. I also tried it with my Col-Usb power adapter, with no change.
  5. I have the following image displayed, with or without a cartridge in the slot. After about 1 minute or so, the image disappears and all I have is a black screen. Turning the system off and on again repeats the process. Inserting a cartridge does not change the image, no sound either. Ignore the darker wide bar across the screen, that's a result of my camera. I've cleaned my power switch and have a properly working power supply, but the issue remains.
  6. I just used a kill-a-watt meter. I'm was getting 8.8 watts on both the damaged, and a working 7800. But after 10 minutes I was getting 11.6 on the damaged console. I turned it off and on again and now it's hovering around 8.6 after 10 minutes. I still have to check the working console after 10 minutes to see what happens. I see the CO14806C on eBay for $20. Seems too high (I paid $1.50 from AliExpress for the RIOT chip, so no big loss there). I'll see if I can find a damaged Atari 2600 and use the chip from that. I was going to remove the chips from my working 7800 but decided against it, for I didn't want to potentially ruin a good working unit. EDIT: I found the C014806C chip, used, on Ebay for $13. Is this the correct chip (they seem to all have different numbers on them): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-5200-Parts-1-x-ATARI-Sally-CPU-Chip-C014806-Tested-and-Working/123714376478?hash=item1ccdf3931e:g:FroAAOSwT4tZs3qH
  7. I replaced the RIOT chip today (6532) but it made no difference. I figure I may as well replace the 6502C as suggested. Which chip is that, for none of the chips on the board are labeled 6502C?
  8. Good luck getting rid of it. I’ve had one complete in box too, available for trade, for ages and there is just no interest. Kind of like those Guitars for music games. I have tons of them, and they will probably forever be hanging from my basement wall.
  9. That molded structure on the right, above the joystick, is a door which is of no use, and is actually hot glued shut. You can see it in the first post, second picture.
  10. That’s a good idea. I’m reluctant to purchase chips from eBay from China. I had ordered a few sets of chips from China for repairs on a couple Colecovision consoles, and it turned out that the chips were no good. Many hours wasted wondering why the chips weren’t working after I had installed them. I’m in the process of getting another 7800 through a trade on GameTZ. He said it worked last time he used it, so I’m hoping I can experiment a bit with the chips on that unit to find out exactly which chips are defective on this one. I will definitely order that tool you recommended though, for I don’t want to destroy a perfectly working console trying to fix the broken one.
  11. I found that same tool on eBay for $277 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hakko-FR301-03-P-Desoldering-Gun-Tool-FR-301-Replaces-FR-300-FR300-05-P/171356976966?epid=10030647862&hash=item27e5abf746:g:xTsAAOSwDOpb21U2 I’m going to purchase it, it’s about time I got some decent tools. I might even be able to write it off on my taxes by implying that I need it for repairs around the house. You figure that I should start with replacing the riot chip? Is that the 6532 chip? Do you have a good source for these chips?
  12. I installed the AV mod, but there is no difference. Same symptoms that I had previously with it's rf. Sounds like my next step will be to replace the riot chip. My tools are not good enough for that, so can someone link me to a good set of tools that I could use to remove and replace the chip(s). Below is pictures of my soldering station (which is probably good enough for most jobs) and my desoldering gun/pump (which never seems to even get hot enough to even melt the solder).
  13. Here's the inside of the prototype. I'm trying to open up the consumer version, but for some reason am having a really hard time removing the cover from the base (the prototype was very easy). Seems they might have crazy glued it to the bottom (along with screws)! But by peeking into a small opening with a flashlight, I can tell you it is definitely a different board. I'll keep at and post pics if I can somehow open it without damaging it.
  14. I bought it off eBay a few years back, perhaps 4 or 5. I noticed that the logos and font were different than what I had on my new in box Pschopad stick, so I just bought it on a whim out of curiosity. The seller didn’t mention anything about the stick in the listing. I don’t remember what I paid, but it was quite cheap. I’ve been looking for certain items in my home today and came across these sticks after forgetting all about them. That ad looks familiar. I wonder if it was from EGM. I collected EGM back when they first began (picked up issue #1 in a bookstore in North Carolina, on my first solo motorcycle trip to Florida from New York as a teenager). I have nearly every issue ever printed, stored away.
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