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About livingonwheels

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  1. I just used a kill-a-watt meter. I'm was getting 8.8 watts on both the damaged, and a working 7800. But after 10 minutes I was getting 11.6 on the damaged console. I turned it off and on again and now it's hovering around 8.6 after 10 minutes. I still have to check the working console after 10 minutes to see what happens. I see the CO14806C on eBay for $20. Seems too high (I paid $1.50 from AliExpress for the RIOT chip, so no big loss there). I'll see if I can find a damaged Atari 2600 and use the chip from that. I was going to remove the chips from my working 7800 but decided against it, for I didn't want to potentially ruin a good working unit. EDIT: I found the C014806C chip, used, on Ebay for $13. Is this the correct chip (they seem to all have different numbers on them): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-5200-Parts-1-x-ATARI-Sally-CPU-Chip-C014806-Tested-and-Working/123714376478?hash=item1ccdf3931e:g:FroAAOSwT4tZs3qH
  2. I replaced the RIOT chip today (6532) but it made no difference. I figure I may as well replace the 6502C as suggested. Which chip is that, for none of the chips on the board are labeled 6502C?
  3. Good luck getting rid of it. I’ve had one complete in box too, available for trade, for ages and there is just no interest. Kind of like those Guitars for music games. I have tons of them, and they will probably forever be hanging from my basement wall.
  4. That molded structure on the right, above the joystick, is a door which is of no use, and is actually hot glued shut. You can see it in the first post, second picture.
  5. That’s a good idea. I’m reluctant to purchase chips from eBay from China. I had ordered a few sets of chips from China for repairs on a couple Colecovision consoles, and it turned out that the chips were no good. Many hours wasted wondering why the chips weren’t working after I had installed them. I’m in the process of getting another 7800 through a trade on GameTZ. He said it worked last time he used it, so I’m hoping I can experiment a bit with the chips on that unit to find out exactly which chips are defective on this one. I will definitely order that tool you recommended though, for I don’t want to destroy a perfectly working console trying to fix the broken one.
  6. I found that same tool on eBay for $277 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hakko-FR301-03-P-Desoldering-Gun-Tool-FR-301-Replaces-FR-300-FR300-05-P/171356976966?epid=10030647862&hash=item27e5abf746:g:xTsAAOSwDOpb21U2 I’m going to purchase it, it’s about time I got some decent tools. I might even be able to write it off on my taxes by implying that I need it for repairs around the house. You figure that I should start with replacing the riot chip? Is that the 6532 chip? Do you have a good source for these chips?
  7. I installed the AV mod, but there is no difference. Same symptoms that I had previously with it's rf. Sounds like my next step will be to replace the riot chip. My tools are not good enough for that, so can someone link me to a good set of tools that I could use to remove and replace the chip(s). Below is pictures of my soldering station (which is probably good enough for most jobs) and my desoldering gun/pump (which never seems to even get hot enough to even melt the solder).
  8. Here's the inside of the prototype. I'm trying to open up the consumer version, but for some reason am having a really hard time removing the cover from the base (the prototype was very easy). Seems they might have crazy glued it to the bottom (along with screws)! But by peeking into a small opening with a flashlight, I can tell you it is definitely a different board. I'll keep at and post pics if I can somehow open it without damaging it.
  9. I bought it off eBay a few years back, perhaps 4 or 5. I noticed that the logos and font were different than what I had on my new in box Pschopad stick, so I just bought it on a whim out of curiosity. The seller didn’t mention anything about the stick in the listing. I don’t remember what I paid, but it was quite cheap. I’ve been looking for certain items in my home today and came across these sticks after forgetting all about them. That ad looks familiar. I wonder if it was from EGM. I collected EGM back when they first began (picked up issue #1 in a bookstore in North Carolina, on my first solo motorcycle trip to Florida from New York as a teenager). I have nearly every issue ever printed, stored away.
  10. I thought it was a possible variant, but have been unable to find any other pictures of this specific design. Perhaps they didn't have the right to use those specific logos/fonts? Here's the Act Labs site promoting the stick: http://www.act-labs.com/arcade3.htm
  11. I have what I believe is a loose Act Labs Psychopad K.O Prototype Arcade Stick. I also have a boxed consumer version to compare it to. The main differences I readily see is that the prototype used the actual Super Nintendo, Sega (Saturn), and PlayStation logos and font. The consumer version does not. The prototype also has a small door on the back of the base, but there is nothing behind it besides hot glue holding it in place. Only thing that gives me some doubt is that the prototype has a serial number sticker (as does the consumer version, of course). Here are some pictures. The first 4 are the prototype, the last 4 pictures is the consumer version:
  12. Yes, in Post #31 you'll see that I took care of it and now have proper continuity. Using a 9v battery I get 9.5 on black 200, 20.3 on red 200. As seen on the pic above, in Post #42, the av box actually looks quite clean and rust free. I'm a little concerned that the av mod I'll be doing later this week (as soon as my kits arrive) may not make a difference.
  13. I just double checked on 200 red (ac). It's definitely 10.5. The shielding has rust holes through it (one rather large), so it might have been submerged for awhile. Most of the screws holding the case together were gone, and the one that were there were not the correct size screws either. As long as I'm going to do the av mod, I might as well remove the rusted av box as suggested.
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