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Just Jeff

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About Just Jeff

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    Atari 2600 programming.

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  1. Good Morning.. Looking for a designer again. See details here: BBlocks (Completed!) - Page 5 - Atari 2600 Programming - AtariAge Forums
  2. Here's is the last draft that our designer sent us before he had to give up due to other obligations. Its supposed to evoke the classic 2K style of the launch titles, which was our goal when writing the game as well. We thought it would be fun to be on the box but that seemed to be the toughest element- It still needs more if its going to work. Any comments, suggestions on the design? Still looking for a new designer btw..
  3. Does anyone have any interesting design ideas for the packaging? Amateur mockups accepted! Here's another art theme that never occurred to me before for some reason.. I misspelled BBlocks though- that's a little embarrassing. Does anyone know a designer that might want to work with us?
  4. Here's a little doodle that I thought might be interesting for box art...
  5. Just a little more on this.. TIA is always running, so even though you are in VBLANK, all of the colors and horizontal positions are still "there". How does it remember? It remembers everything you told it and holds it until you change it. This is why you see stripes when you pull a cartridge out. Its showing the last things you told it, on every scan line, forever. So if you think of Pong, for example. It's only necessary to set the paddles once when the game is turned on, then TIA remembers. Only the ball needs to be updated every frame.
  6. Nice job! Are you interested in refining this program? You have some more learning opportunities here if so. I see 8 or 9 things ranging from inefficient to incorrect here. Here are two that are actually affecting this program negatively: As spendidnut mentioned earlier, hit alt-L to see if you are displaying the proper number of lines (262). This program is running only 259 which brings us to issue #2- you're using the carry flag incorrectly. The carry flag should be set for subtraction, not cleared. If you step through the code in Stella (hit the ~ key), you will see that you are actually subtracting 2 on your first time through your loops, even though you have sbc #1. If you clear that up, you'll be running at 262 lines. There are other things too.. Let me know if you are interested in reworking them..
  7. The easiest way to help is to see your code.. So you may want to post it. Short of that.. Did you set CTRLPF to reflect? After that, you will be writing your data to registers PF0, PF1, and PF2 to draw the top and bottom of your design, and need only PF0 for the middle of it (though you could just repeatedly write 0s to the PF1 and PF2 registers there). Are you aware of the fact that you have to put your PF0 and PF2 data in backwards? (For the left half of the screen) This is all on page 39 of the programming guide if you need to read up on it.
  8. Little tip: Stella shows extra flicker with odd frame rates. Get your scanline count to 262 and the prominent flicker you see will go away. I think it might be fine after that.
  9. I feel a 1 clock object with similar luminosity is undetectable. On the other end on of the scale- an 8 clock object flickering black and white is. What colors and clocks are you using?
  10. I still can't figure out how to jump or pick up the gun. Also, do we post high scores here? I got 0!
  11. OK I' think I'll give it a shot. Yours is the first suggestion I've gotten that comes with a understandable explanation of what's happening and why. So maybe this would be a good place for a varistor/potentiometer. What do you think?
  12. I've tried it on both. The first CRT was noticeably dark, same with one of my LCDs. I was able to do a decent adjustment another CRT, but I'd definitely like to improve the performance of the mod if possible so it works better overall. I wish could find suggestions that also mentioned what the components (for removal) are for. Are you sure about removing that resistor? That is yet another different solution.
  13. Thanks I completed the mod and its got a clear picture but... Its too dark. And I think the sound is a little weird sometimes. Apparently that's very common. I've seen many variations on how to correct it. Yours is the first I've seen that shows that specific combination of resistors. Not sure which to do.
  14. Yeah... Re-watching the video, it looks like his yellow is connected to his Audio In on the new board which is counterintuitive I think. He also had me snap off the RF board. I would have much rather unsoldered the whole assembly with the shield which I saw someone do in another. Outstanding questions: Is it OK that transistors 3 and 4 are connected with solder? I don't want to unsolder any of it if I can help it. New questions: Should I have removed any resistors? In another video, I saw someone remove two but I didn't do any. I did remove the one transistor behind the tall red thing in picture 3 (unseen) My right side difficulty switch is sheared off. Can I remove the channel selector switch and use it for a difficulty switch? They look identical.
  15. Good Afternoon, I completed a composite mod on one of my 2600s and have some questions that I was hoping someone experienced with it could help me out with.. When it arrived the instructions were literally "watch one of the many videos online" so I did that. I have not turned it on yet, mostly because I do not think it is correct. Tracing things out on the 2600 board, I believe the yellow and blue wires are reversed. Are they? (The blue looks almost white in the pics.) Here is a picture of the board that came with it: And here is where I connected everything from the bundle of 4 wires on the left side of the picture above which appears to be the input. I feel like yellow and blue may be reversed. Pins 1, 3, and 4 were used. Pin 4 is connected to the wire labelled "Audio In" on the new board. I feel like this should probably be video. Should it?: Additionally, I put this wire on the 4th resistor from the right but my solder is bleeding onto the 3rd resistor. Is this OK? They look like the traces might connect them anyway. Do they? I think these are correct: Yellow is on the yellow jack, and blue is connected to the red and white jacks. These wires came out of the right side of the new board.
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